Ignacio Ocamica Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Can't find the words to express how great this kit is coming along Truly a masterpiece John!!! Quote
THOR Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Hello, This project is sooo cool. Can't wait to get my copy. I have a question for John. How did you create those curves? I can cut out the blocky parts easy. It's the compound curves that give me fits and make me throw up my hands to solid modeling and cnc stuff. I'm going to run into this problem on the "calves" of the Tomahawk I'm going to start once I wrap up my Spartan. Any tips? Thanks for doing this wonderful kit, btw. -Thor Quote
robokochan Posted August 4, 2004 Author Posted August 4, 2004 Any idea as to how much this sucker is going to cost us when all is said and done? We are looking at a price tag of around $100.00. This price is not set in stone and we have to wait until we start the casting. Rob Quote
captain america Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 Hi Thor. Quite simply, once the blocks are cut square, I take my trusty ol' dremel and sanding block, and simply hack away at them 'til the shape is right. Lucky for me I have eagle eyes for proportions, so I'm able to keep everything symmetrical to within about half a mm. You can do this too, just be sure that as soon as you carve one curve in one piece, that you immediately cut the same curve in the mirror part. The more closely you work on both parts simultaneously, the better your chances of keeping them symmetrical. Quote
Myersjessee Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 Hi Thor.Quite simply, once the blocks are cut square, I take my trusty ol' dremel and sanding block, and simply hack away at them 'til the shape is right. Lucky for me I have eagle eyes for proportions, so I'm able to keep everything symmetrical to within about half a mm. You can do this too, just be sure that as soon as you carve one curve in one piece, that you immediately cut the same curve in the mirror part. The more closely you work on both parts simultaneously, the better your chances of keeping them symmetrical. Sure John...that sounds easy...'cept for mortals like me who can't even get a piece of play doh symetrical! Man oh man...2 days work....I look at the pictures and feel like a child! Quote
Mule Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 I haven't looked at this thread until now. This is utterly fabulous work. I love the thruster bell. keep it up! Quote
fulcy Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 Hi Thor.Quite simply, once the blocks are cut square, I take my trusty ol' dremel and sanding block, and simply hack away at them 'til the shape is right. Lucky for me I have eagle eyes for proportions, so I'm able to keep everything symmetrical to within about half a mm. You can do this too, just be sure that as soon as you carve one curve in one piece, that you immediately cut the same curve in the mirror part. The more closely you work on both parts simultaneously, the better your chances of keeping them symmetrical. For those of us who can't do what the Cap' does - and, yes, I am included in this - here's a simple trick. Use a simple sketching program on the PC, and sketch some curves - it doesn't matter if they are the exact shape of the part or not. Now, print the curve out, mount it on some card board stock (like an old shoebox), and cut out the appropriate side of the curve (if you are making round shapes, cut out the space under the curve, if you are making something with a curved inner surface, cut out the the space above the curve). Viola - you have a template! Now, you take this template, and put it against the part you are working on, and it gives you a point of reference, to see how smooth your curve is, versus a curve generated on the computer. Adjust your curve, so that it's smooth with respect to the template (you could even fool around some more on the computer, and try to get curves that are the exact shape of what you are making - takes a little more time, but once you have a series of them to go down the side of the part, it makes checking your parts that much easier). I've found it very helpful when I am doing larger curved surfaces, that require a little extra care to get just right. Oh, and captain - beautiful work! I am very very jealous of the speed of your prototyping, and only wish I could make my parts half as fast as you... Quote
Myersjessee Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 Oh, and captain - beautiful work! I am very very jealous of the speed of your prototyping, and only wish I could make my parts half as fast as you... I, on the other hand, am selfish....if I get a wish I want to be anle to prototype as fast..not half as fast! { taps ruby spike heels together, "theres no prototyping like Johns, theres no prototyping like Johns"} Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 Trully Inspiring and Amazing Work John!!! ...Hey Dorothy, I mean Myersjesse, why wish when you can just hone your skills and be the best you are. Like clicking your ruby red heels... NB4M Quote
pfunk Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 gorgeous work, cant wait to see the finished model,,,,and get one Quote
bigkid24 Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 I keep telling myself that I need to come into this forum more often and topics like this are exactly the reason why! Cap, that is some NICE work. I have no modeling skills whatsoever but I'm interested. I also have horrible luck but I'm still entering the raffle. Woohoo! Thanks everybody involved for doing this for our community! Quote
wm cheng Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 Great work John, Hey I was wondering if this would also be a good thread or place for Booster references. If anyone has any colour references - I would love to see them. I scanned this concept sketch out of the Design Works. Quote
wm cheng Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 Hey John, I assume you have this scan already - its in the Perfect Memory, but the Design Works also has it and its a bit bigger (although I'm not sure if its any clearer) I believe these are the only published "canon" designs for the Booster. Please don't take this the wrong way - may I just comment that it seems as though the booster maybe a bit "fatter" in plan especially around the UN Kite symbol, then taper in quite a bit to tuck itself under the big engine bells. This is especially evident in the rear 3/4 view, it shows the fast packs to be almost as fat as the engine bell's diameter, then the tail sweeps back to the 5:30 position on the top right bell. However, I think you've captured it dead on in elevation. Additionally, I would like to add as a wishlist detail, that when you come around to the openings, ie: the pack opening to the rear engine bells - what do you think about adding some "teeth" details around the edge of the openings like the Yamato fast packs? Please don't take these as critizisms - you do fantastic work - please just think of them as comments or suggestions (you know tone is always lost in e-mails). Forever your admirer and fellow Canuck! Quote
captain america Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 Hi WM. The plan view of the booter was a bit of a compromise as it turns out. When you look at it from 3/4 front/elevated level, like in the main pic, it looks spot-on. However, if you make the booster fuselage TOO bulbous at the mid-section(around the UN kite), you will end up with a tremendous amount of overhang over the legs. If you take your Hasegawa VF-1 kit and look at it from the underside, you see that the legs are actually narrower than the chest/back/main fuselage to begin with, so if you then exaggerate the outward flaring of the booster, you just compond that problem. By the way, Kawamori's drawings contradict each other in terms of proportions. In his 3/4 front view and 3/4 underside view, the side bulge is gradual and progressive, whereas in the rear view, the sides of the booster look almost board straight, and then taper in dramatically to tuck-in under the booster nozzles. As a result, it's impossible to get a solid 3-D form to look EXACTLY like all of Kawamori's drawings, but I am keeping it superbly close... And creatively ad-libbing in the grey areas. Re: teeth details. I'm not sure what you're referring to exactly. I still yet have some little rectangular bits to add to the base of the nozzles... Might those be what you're refering to? Quote
wm cheng Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 Hey John, So true... maybe you could provide a plan top and bottom view next time you take a photo. Proportions are always difficult - especially when they are hand-drawn. Below are the teeth details I was talking about earlier. Quote
wm cheng Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 I guess here's some conceptual inspiration... Quote
wm cheng Posted August 5, 2004 Posted August 5, 2004 Maybe seeing how the Russian r-7 rockets / Soyuz detail their exterior might inform you on how to panel line or add riveting details to the Booster. Quote
Penguin Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 By the way, Kawamori's drawings contradict each other in terms of proportions. In his 3/4 front view and 3/4 underside view, the side bulge is gradual and progressive, whereas in the rear view, the sides of the booster look almost board straight, and then taper in dramatically to tuck-in under the booster nozzles. As a result, it's impossible to get a solid 3-D form to look EXACTLY like all of Kawamori's drawings, but I am keeping it superbly close... And creatively ad-libbing in the grey areas. That rear view always looked to me like it's supposed to be from a close perspective, thus creating the more dramatic curves, while the other views seem more distant with little to no perspective. I'd expect the rear one to be the least accurate in terms of plan view. Quote
Solscud007 Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 would it be possible to modify this for a 1/60? Quote
Noyhauser Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 (edited) I'm guessing it would take a completely new mold, because the feet are designed to fit in with Hasagawa models, if it could be done at all. Also these need to be painted and assembled as well. It would just be easier if you built a Hasagawa. Edited August 6, 2004 by Noyhauser Quote
captain america Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 My fingertips are thoroughly crazy-glued, I'm zonked on putty fumes and it's been a long week. Time for another update. Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures; I'm using a webcam whilst I decide on the best digital camera to replace my ill-fated(and crappy) HP unit. As you can see, I've coated the main hull parts in grey, as they are very nearly complete, with just some surfacing to do before fine-detailing/scribing. In the views of the lower hull, you can clearly see the tapering of the outer hull as it joins to the leg unit. I've left this area rough for now, as I'll have to use the SUPER Valk legs to make the final fit adjustments. If you notice down the center of the lower hull, there are ten circular indentations. These will be for the mounting latches that hold the booster to the launch arm. Other views of interest are the rear of the main hull sections where the nozzle mounts. I've added some little bits inside to make these interesting, like the main circular couplings with individually drilled & pressed rivets(even though they'll be all but totally obscured by the nozzle itself.) Speaking of the nozzle, the endbell itself is now finished, and decidedly a pain in the ass to photograph... It's dotted with several rings of very tiny rivets that are just too small to capture on cam; only the larger rivets seem to show. Nevertheless, these will be quite the visual treat when seen in person. That's about all for now; I'm going to put the booster aside temporarily until my Super parts arrive. There's maybe 2-3 days of work to finish it all, so I'm almost there (( your patience is greatly appreciated.)) Cheers, Quote
dyowelb Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 oohhh...yummy...nice work cap.... thanks, d Quote
Grayson72 Posted August 7, 2004 Posted August 7, 2004 (edited) Oh my friggin god that's beautiful! How the heck do you do raised details like the riviets and the the little horizontal lines where the bells go? By the super valk parts I assume you just mean the leg joints that help bend the leg into proper position? No leg armor. Edited August 7, 2004 by Grayson72 Quote
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