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A question about panel lines on Hasegawa kits


JLYC

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I'm currently working on a 1/72 battroid and I'm experimenting with oil washes for the panel lines. I've painted the white with tamiya acrylic and painted black oil all over. But I have no idea how long it takes the oil paint to dry before I can wipe the excess off without destroying the panel lines. Can anybody tell me? I have seen that it takes 'a couple days' but exactly how many days?? Thank you!!

:o

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Hi, I have to add a thing about oil washes...I don't do oil washes! I tried but they all made my Valks yellow for some reason. What I do use is a water based paint $1.00 from the rag shop. Cover my valk or other model in future floor wax, let dry and then do a wash with the paint a little watered down.

Looks just like an oil wash and I clean up with just water. If that doesn't work I use clear windex. Works great! No mess, no order and quick drying time. Plus if it's too light you can go over it again without the hassle.

It worked nice for my 19 but really well for my 1/72 battroid J.

I also used charcole pencils. They worked in certian areas. Got them at Walmart.

As for a

how long the oil wash will take to dry. Mine took a day in a half.

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I gotta tell ya that I tried everything and nothing worked as well as the future layer followed by an oil wash. You only have to let it dry for like 30 mins to an hour, and I wipe away with only a soft cloth, no thinner at all.

Check out my recent VF-1J build in the models section, the panels came out great.

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thanks guys. that's exactly what i'm doing now- future floor finish followed by oil wash. i've been applying a few coats of future and have not applied wash yet. however, when i tried the oil wash without applying future first (applying oil on acrylic tamiya white), some of the oil does not wipe off cleanly even with oil solvent. i'll see if it improves with a coat of future. thx

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i read a really good tip for doing panels lines just last week.

it involved black chalk, water and some dish soap(like dawn). it seemed like its the easiest way without causing too many headaches. i'll see if i can find the thread for you. :unsure:

heres the link to the directions including pics. :) you can thank stram8777 for bring this little tidbit of info to MW. :) i can't think of a more goof proof way to do them.

PANEL LINES

Edited by haterist
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hi. i tried the future on one section and yes it improves the results drastically. before I thought since I'm using white gloss paint and both the paint and future are acrylic it's not necessary to apply the future, but guess i was wrong.

i'm applying the oil to the rest of the battroid now- hopefully it will work out otherwise I have to repaint the whole thing, by hand!! i can hardly wait for the oil to dry...... :blink:

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Another great way to do panel lines is to mix some water, Gunze acrylic, and a few drops of dishwashing soap until the desired color density and then apply it over a coat of future. It's talked about in Finescale Modeler magazine all the time. They call it a "sludge wash". ;) It works great! All you need to clean it up is a moist rag or a Q-tip after it dries. The key is to let the wash dry completely before removing it. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

heres my 2 cents on oil washes. i use them all the time. the best way to use them is to use a fine point brush and let capillary action draw the wash through the panel lines. the oil paint i use is lamp black DO NOT use testors enamels for this they grey out when they dry whereas artists oils keep their color.just touch the brush tip to a place where a few panel lines meet and let it flow. this wash works best over quality hobby acrylics, the paint from the rag shop uses flour as an ingredient and the thinner yellows it. testors acryl and tamiya paints work best in a semigloss finish or gloss. i cant stand water washes because they tend to go splotchy or they dont stay solid in the line and break up. with oil washes you can wipe it down the next day with a thinner dampened,NOT SOAKED, piece of tissue and get a very subtle dirt streaked effect. this comes in handy especially on the flap surfaces and around transformation joints. give it a try you might be suprised

sean

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