Going to Start a Custom

[Hurricane29]

All right, I am going to hopefully start on my first custom 1/48 Vf-1J. The paint scheme is going to be Enigma based. So what I need are any and all tips you guys could give me, what paints to use, how to apply the paint, techniques to make it look good. I have a good amount of modeling in my past, but I know nothing about washes and advanced stuff like that. Please contribute all that you can, thanks. If this could be turned into an all in one how to customize a 1/48 it would be greatly appreicated.

Rich

Edited June 29, 2004 by Hurricane29

[Godzilla]

Actually I suck at it right now. My first real custom was DYRL Kaz. Now it looks good but I started on the TV Max and I am in the middle of stripping and start over. I would like some pointers, too.

Right now I use enamels. Why? Because they (as in Testers Model Master)have the colors I need. I use spray paint but I need practice on it.

[Neova]

I'm mainly an acrylics guy and so is Kurt. You can do amazing stuff if you know how to use each to your advantage. Acrylics are super easy to clean up and you can strip it off your model with almost any soak in windex , rubbing alcohol (expensive), plastic safe cleaner and etc...

Enamels are best for toys though since they are much more durable but clear coating and sealing in the acrylics would be ok for less handled display pieces.

First, take the Valkyrie apart, put the screws away in baggies or a tray and think about if you will primer, paint over or strip the original paint.

Do a search for paint strippers and note everyone's result. I've tried all kinds of stuff to strip paint and at this point, unless I can feel paint when I run over the paint with my finger nails, I'm going to leave it there and either primer it, or paint over it, unless I need that part to have the bare plastic show through.

If the paint is thick, I will try to remove as much as it as possible with a toothbrush and an overnight sold in Castrol Super Clean (purple). It won't take it all off but it can help to thin the old paint down and is one of the FEW things that is truly plastic safe. Light sanding (600 - 800+ grit) would be ok if you are planning to repaint the WHOLE piece.

If the plastic is bare naked, consider using primer. If its a paint over existing paint, it should be ok. Might want to scuff it up with some light sanding so it will stick better.

But before you paint, WASH the valkyrie in warm water and dishwashing liquid. Rinse thoroughly and let it dry. This is to get rid of residue. Its funny that I still find oily, gummy crap on some of my newer Valks and it can be found inside of your Valkyries as well.

After you've prepped the parts, and picked out colors, you will decide the size of the project. For small parts such as the arrows, you can hand paint it if you thin the paints enough or if have a good steady hand and nice brush.

For an Enigma, its spray all the way. If you can get good with spray can paints (enamels) and if it has your colors, go for it. Acrylics have way more choices and are much easier to mix and thin using 91% iso propanol for Mr. Color and Tamiya paints. Better to use an airbrush though since have way more options, but I suck at that so its no different than can spray for me (for now). I do hate the orange peel effect from a bad spray job. I'm trying to control my humidity (freaking 90% here) with AC and will see how it goes. Light sanding and clear coating can fix that but its just more work.

Get good masking tape to make the edges and cheapo tape to "extend" your mask. or use papersheets that won't soak in between. If you over soak the mask, you're laying down way too much paint.

The rest is just like model building. Put pieces together, mask off areas, spray, let dry, second mask, spray, let dry.

Followup with gloss clear coat, let dry

Decal up

Followup with gloss clear coat, let dry

do panel lines and weather, let dry

Use thinned enamels or artist oils on acyrlic painted surfaces or vice versa. Be careful when wiping off the panel lines so you don't RUB off the layers underneath.

follow up with final clear coat, matte or semi-gloss for the look you want, let dry. This will seal up everything and have it look good. You would use the gloss coats to slide the decals around and to let the panel wash move down the panel lines easier.

If you want to do to preshade, you can do it with primer (dark primer) and layer the top primary colors up to but not quite on the panel lines and edges. This a ton of work but looks really good.

If you want to do postshading, you can do it after the panel lines. You just spray your shade colors (dark grey, light grey, whatever... ) along the areas you want. Let dry, then clear coat over.

That the basics. There are more such as dry brushing, chalk weathering and etc... so do a search in this forum and on some model boards for more detailed how toos.

My skills are the same as a 3 year with bowl of spagettie doodle set but that doesn't stop me from learning. If you're scare you'll ruin a Valkyrie, do what I do. Get a few junk pieces lying around and test paint it. Practice the masking, painting, shading and etc... then toss that piece of art out and get working on the real deal when you're confident or drunk

Good luck.

PS: I would love it if the customizing Gods such as Kurt, WM Cheng, Jung, Mike (mlz22), Devin, or others here would do a writeup for us newbs. In the meantime, I'll just keep hobbling along.

Edited July 1, 2004 by Neova

[Hurricane29]

Thanks Neova, I hope that some of the master see this thread also. Btw what are the pro and cons of useing an airbrush as oppose to the spray can enamels.?

[Godzilla]

Just to let you know, you will not be able to get all of the paint out no matter what you use. I have used Brasso, Easy Lift Off, and Pine sol. Here is what I found out:

Product: Brasso

Pro: Works on removing all paint. Just takes a little elbow grease.

Con: Doesn't remove paint in the panel lines. Also you may have to scrub a while.

Product: Easy Lift Off

Pro: Gets paint off. At least 99% of it.

Con: Soaking it or prolong use will cause the ABS plastic to become brittle. Suggest you lightly use.

Product: Pine Sol

Pro: Gets paint off of VF-1J only or anything with Red. I use a tottbrush to clean it

Con: Doesn't get paint off of DYRL Valks. Will not be able to remove all of the paint but most of it. You will see stains.

I never tried Castrol Castrol Super Clean but I may try that. In my experience so far, nothing can take all of the paint out. If anybody knows, pass this info along.

[AchtungMacross]

Hey Hurricane29,

Of course the pros of having an airbrush are:

Unlimited custom colors, just mix paints

Not much mess, just look at the spray site after painting witha spray can

Freehand camoflage

The cons are the learning curve and cleaning it. Some airbrushes are easy to clean,like Testor's Aztek. Just unscrew the paint tip on it and wash it out.

whatever you do, an airbrush will improve your skills.

[dyowelb]

I never tried Castrol Castrol Super Clean but I may try that.  In my experience so far, nothing can take all of the paint out. If anybody knows, pass this info along.

I've just CSC a week ago to remove the paint(enamel) on my 5 year old model kit and it removed the paint easily even on panel line without any effect on the plastic BUT I haven't tried it yet on any toy. Unlike PineSol w/c makes plastics brittle.

Another good thing with CSC is it's reuseable.

Thanks,

d

Edited July 27, 2004 by dyowelb

[EXO]

CSC doesn't take paint off a toy as well as it does on an old painted model. Pine-Sol has a greater effect. I still had to sand some red paint off a Hikaru 1A. It took off the black with no effort. I never heard of Pine-Sol making the plastic brittle on a valk. But I have heard of it leaving a yellow tint.