Dax415 Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Ok, finally "finished" a VF-2SS kit and I suck at painting the kit. I don't have a digital camera to show others what it came out like and even if I did, I'm a bit embarrassed by it. The only thing that came out was the armor. Although at least it is completed considering it is the first model kit I've done in since I was 14. I do have a lot of questions since I do plan to keep trying to do a good job on the next project as I am determined to build a decent model. On the VF2SS, any tips on how to airbrush the cockpit area? What about the leg portion where the armor and non armor over lap? I ended up painting with a brush in some areas and was wondering how others tackled this situation. Also what kits are the easiest to start with? Thanks --Dax Quote
Grayson72 Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Hey Dax, regarding the cockpit I think most of us here just brush that part, no need for a fine finish there. Quote
Valkyrie Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 For a good starter kit, I'd probably go with an Arii 1/100 VF-1 fighter mode kit. It's a small, simple, but halfway decent kit. It's one of those kits that'll look kinda crappy if you just glue it together, but if you paint the whole thing and putty up the seams, it's actually a pretty good looking kit. Or if you want to go up a level, go for the Bandai 1/72 Super Valkyrie kit. It's a bit more complicated (mainly because of the Super parts), but still a lot simpler than the Hasegawas. The first kit I ever did a halfway decent buildup on was a 1/100 Arii fighter. An old Focker VF-1S. It was molded in this light green plastic, so I had no choice but to paint the whole thing. But I'm glad they did, otherwise I would have done another half-assed build on it. Quote
Grayson72 Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Oh yeah, the old non transformable super valk, that's a good recomendation. They go for like 10-15 bucks on ebay so you won't feel bad if it doesn't turn out perfect. You can make them come out pretty nice lookin'. Quote
F360° Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 (edited) well, I second the Arii 1/100 VF-1 fighter mode kit, you should be able to get them for under $10. And the hasegawa one's are better, more detail and just cost alittle bit more, around $15-$20 I did a Arii1/100 way back in the days and it looks pretty good if you add alittle paint to them.,, no pudding needed. Just us FLAT paint, then do the decals, then get a ultra fine point gray/black permenet pen at office max and start detailing the panel line. Then just spay a layer or 2 of dult clear coat. My color was a simiple GRAY cannon foddler. But you can do the same with the Hasegawa, it would be better too since it has more details. Using flat paint with brush is way easier than the gloss ones. Edited May 11, 2004 by F360° Quote
Gerwalker Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Here is my list of easy and good looking Macross kits: Arii 1/100 fighter: the best Arii VF-1 ever (forget about the battroid and gerwalks) Bandai 1/100 strike battroid: excellent and very easy. Bandai 1/144 M7 kits: a battroid and a fighter in one box, quite decent IMHO (no decals just stickers ). Tip For a fast painting: I use Krylon spray paints whenever is posible. Painting a VF-1 white: Just paint it with Krylon satin white. In a couple of minutes you get a smooth finish (just dont' over spray). Apply decals paint details and presto!! For painting the fast packs in your VF-2SS use masking tape (Tamiya is the best) for protecting the rest of the model while painting those parts. I recommend you to read wmcheng articles on the "how to" models section. For instance he did an incredible work with masking tape in both the Vf-21 and the Mave from Yukikaze. Though he an expert modeler there are a lot of his tips, hints and ideas so well explained that even a newbie can use them. Quote
Stamen0083 Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Old models are the bane of newbie modellers. I highly, highly recommend a Hasegawa VF-1. It may seem complicated and scary, but it's not, at all. It may seem a bit expensive, but the final result is well worth it. No one expects a wm_cheng model from a first timer, so even if you don't build the model well enough, you're sure to learn some techniques that can be applied to the next model. Quote
promethuem5 Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 hm .....its a bit of a stretch, but you could try to find some of the 1/200 scale kits to foola round with..they are easy to find. also, i noticed some of the arii kits are cheap, and i picked one up. very simple, with semi decent detail. just a thought Quote
bhop Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 (edited) I think the Hasegawa Battroid would be an easier build than the fighter versions. I haven't built mine yet, but i've heard that a lot of it actually snaps, kinda like a Gundam, but I can't back that up...since I haven't even really checked it out, just shoved it in the closet with all my other unbuilt junk.. Edited May 12, 2004 by bhop Quote
Gerwalker Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 I think the Hasegawa Battroid would be an easier build than the fighter versions. I haven't built mine yet, but i've heard that a lot of it actually snaps, kinda like a Gundam, but I can't back that up...since I haven't even really checked it out, just shoved it in the closet with all my other unbuilt junk.. Hase battroid is a good kit (best battroid ever) but has some design defects that can ruin the life of a begginer. It's snap but parts don't hold very well (not as a Gundam, I mean) and the hip joints are extremelly weak. AFAIK the simplest Hase kit so far is the YF-21. It is big and has not a big ammount of parts. Quote
Phil Posted May 13, 2004 Posted May 13, 2004 (edited) I would also vote for the Macross 7 kits (Just look at my avatar!). The Hasegawa kits are well made, but are just waiting to be butchered by beginners with all the gluing and decaling required. The M7 kits (particularly the 1/144 kits) havea very simple construction and fit together nicely. The Hasegawa kits have a mutlitude of tiny parts just waiting to be lost or glued on incorrectly. The old Nichimo/Testors kits have poor fitting parts and you end up needing to fill a number of gaps. Edited May 13, 2004 by Phil Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.