LED Lighting system

[to177]

Want to install a battery operated LED with an on-off switch ... How do I go about doing it? Does anyone know?

[The_Major]

ehh what are you using the LED for that would help alot. Ive never worked much with LED's, i generaly stick to Fiber optics, as a matter of fact last LED i did was on a 1/48 VF-1S Now it has working landing and wing lights and a fiber optic detailed cocpit.

LEDs arnt much different than the F/O system i work with, F/Os just work better in 1/72nd scale kits, but post what youre wanting to do and ill try and help ya.

[mechaninac]

Mind posting pictures of your lit 1/48...I'd love to see it.

[Neova]

... as a matter of fact last LED i did was on a 1/48 VF-1S Now it has working landing and wing lights and a fiber optic detailed cocpit.

Post pics and how to please! So many customs, so little time...

[to177]

Sounds like you're the right guy I should seek help from. Please do show me a pic of what yours looks like. I basically want to apply that LED or optic treatment similar to the MPC - So the eye will light up with just a click of a switch. I'm planning on using it on my 1/60 Q-Rau that I'm customizing. BTW, what's "F/O" system?

[The_Major]

F/O is my abriviation for Fiber Optics, and now that i know what youre doing with it i can help ya out.

Ok youre replacing the Eye on the Rau, i have yet to recive my rau so i dont know where it comes apart and what not, but i can give you the basics.

First things first, Decide what size battey is needed for the LED, with my 1/48 i used watch batteries as they were small enough to fit into the nose and legs of the Valkyrie, and seeing as you are working on a 1/60 watch batteries will be your best bet for saving space, especialy if you want to still have the figure fit inside.

Now once you decide what batteries to use you need to do two things see how many batteries it takes to run the LED and make the terminal to place the batteries in, i often custom make mine (because i use odd combinations of batteries) wich isnt too hard, you just take heat tolerent plastic make a box then line it with Black Electircal tape then you can lay in and fasten down the required wireing for the terminal.

After that has been accomplished its time to work on the placing of the LED, first you need to mold a peice of clear plastic to fit into the "Eye Socket" over where the LED will be placed when in place this will create a more even flow of light across the eye. after having made the Clear Eye cover you can now do one of two things, Drill a hole for the LED "Bulb" to fit in without toucing plastic adding some Crome or silver paint to the hole to further deflect light outwards, or You can compleatly remove the Red section on the faceplate and give the back of the Clear Plastic a coat of Clear Red and fit it in so that the LED fits in then you can fill in the area around the "Bulb" itself with reflecting foil that can be found at most hobby stores, smooth houshold aluminimum foil works well to and chances are you already have some of that.

Next step is to place the LED inside. Bets way to do this in your case is to fit the LED so that it appears in the Position where you want it

((Tip)) Tape it down, insert the figure and see how well it closes, you may want to pick up a smaller LED module.

Once you have achived the desired Location attach the required power wire

((TIP)) do so in generous length so they can be cut to size later

Then glue down the LED module

once this is done it is Time to attach the connecting wires to the terminal and mount it, i would sugest trying to mount it in the "BackPack" like thruster pack on the rear of the rau once you have mounted the terminal and made sure everything still fits, its time to instal the switch, Now i for on hate switches that are obvious and out in the open thats why on my 1/48 i used a "MicroSwitch" so i could mount it in the cocpit of the Valk and easily decuise it as part of the control pannels, in the raus case its a lot harder to hide without a wireing system more complicated that of the alarm system at Fort Knox. so i would sugest geting a micro switch and doing a small amount of cutting, by removing the rau's antenna cutting a hole big enough for the switch handel to move back and forth and then attach the antenna ontop of the switch so the antenna is then the switch. you can touch up with paint and putty as well.

Final step is to connect the wireing, and rather than trying to explain that at 3 am in the morning and then having you somehow detonating your rau and suing me , ill do a wireing diagram and post it here, also if anyone has some nice Side Front and top lineart views of the Rau i can use them for mounting instructions that can be printed off, also some closeup shots of the 1/60 rau's interrior including the back of the Faceplate area.

Once the requested linart and rau pics are posted or found, i will then be able to post a full detailed set of fool proof instructions in both a basic guide for beginning customizers and an advanced set of instructions for the Advanced, this will include sugestion of making a new eyepeice and so on, Advanced will have sugestions on how to minimaly effect the outside of the Model, and final sets of intructions will, with the use of common sence be able to show you how to add LED's to other items, and dun worry ill post pix of the Customized 1/48, and a how to on F/Os

Edited May 8, 2004 by The_Major

[to177]

Hey Major,

Here's what I have as far as the wire system and LED light. It's operates on a small 3V battery. I brought the switch at Radio Shack, but don't even know if it's correct for what I'm trying to achieve...

[to177]

This is the breakdown of what I have done so far to the face. I'm planning on making the TV version, so I had to break apart the original face(was very challenging). It consisted of 2parts: peg(rotation of face) and back faceplate. I then drilled out all the holder of the front faceplate, cutted the middle eye out to make it hollow to implement a visor and LED which will be attached where the original peg holder was. The new face will not move like the original toy. I've attached a pic for refereneces.

Edited May 8, 2004 by to177

[to177]

Here's a side shot w/ the positioning of where I want the LED to be at. Just need to figured out how to wire and install the battery with the switch.

[to177]

and last I was thinking of adding the switch to the back booster...let me know what you think. I'm open to suggestions.

[Neova]

Tom,

Good idea but hide the switch! Put it UNDER the boosters so it looks OEM.

The_Major,

With your tranformable SDF-1 kit, your HW2 mod and your input here, I just want to THANK YOU for helping us out! Truly a great Macross contributor and fan.

[The_Major]

Well to177, i must say you have layed out everything and have given a good amount of thought and work to this already, i commend you, you are definatly acting like you have done this before and i like your positioning of the switch (which you should have no problem with), i dunno how the rau comes apart and or what its Inards look like but i have a feeling hiding the switch unter the booster might get complicated. anyway here is a super simplified diagram of how the LED is hooked up to the powersource. and my sugested wire path is to run the wires along the inside top of the opening Peice so that the wires wont be hanging visably when you open it up.

If you feel like ive left anything out, sound like a compleat idiot (wouldnt be the first time ), or ya have any questions please let me know. i really wanna see this finished project.

To Neova

I feel Honored to get such praise from the likes of a MW member, i love to share my opinions and thoughts, and i also love to share what i know even if it makes people think im nuts (ala argument about the possibility of constructing a VF-0 with current technolgy wich is 150% possible, i can get into that one later but i will say this, i did not get into areospace engineering to design the newest line of passenger jets for virgin atlantic , i did it for two reasons, designing a new Shuttle and constructing a working VF and beyond.) anyway getting OT

As for the Transforming SDF-1 i had to do so much to it that i cant remember everything i did, so i wont be able to do a walk through for it untill i can find another DYRL SDF-1 Crusier Mode Kit. hopefully ill be able to get my hands on the one thats apeared as Comming Soon on e2046.

and as for pics of my 1/48 Focker Special, or as my GF likes to call it the Flying Christmas tree (she does that just to irritate me shes just as big of a macross fan as i am) ill have to wait untill i can get a new digital camera, my last one had an unexpected meeting with our pool about a year ago and i havent gotten it replaced yet mainly due to my current projects wich are as follows.

1/72 Scale replica of the Prometheus to use as a valk display stand wich once compleat will be something like 21 feet long and take the entire length of a wall in my basement. (USS FLAAG eat your heart out)

Progress 25% have the Command Superstructure compleated and most of the forward flight deck done.

Reasons for project, 1 Im friggen insane 2 I have a Custom Max DYRL VF-1A with flaps gear and twin tail hooks down and had now where to accuratly display him....... oh yeah did i mention im insane?

My Custom 1/8 scale (if he were micronized) Figure of the DYRL Breetai its about 2% done, i suck at sculpting FIgures of "Humans" and i use the term loosly and right now his head looks like a deformed peice of fruit with a plate on it....

last project other than the HW2 mod is my 1/72 scale DYRL era Space Battle Diorama that has invaded my Workroom (modeling room) compleat with valks in all 3 forms custom made Regults N-Ger's Gnerl's and Rau's (this is where about 20% of my total 972 compleated valks are.

this project is as of right now 99.9999999% done, i have the walls painted, Space black, with stars, jupiter can be seen on one wall the sun on another (In correct proportion to one another as well as painted fleets as there is no way in hell id fit a 1/72 sdf-1 anywhere but the astrodome... and i highly doubt that, but the only thing i have left to do is finish the soundtrack for when you flip on the lights it will start playing the battle sounds com chatter and pilot talk

Oh yeah did i mention that i was insane, or maybe im just uber fanboy man! and yes my gf comes over to help me with my projects and yes i have somewhat of a life......

anyway sorry for Hijacking your thread,...... when i get to talkin i find it hard to stop sometimes.... like i said i love shareing.........okay thats enough outta me, if you have any more questions about the LED to177 or anything else please ask.

Edited May 10, 2004 by The_Major

[to177]

Major

That's what happened when you have alot of free time and read alot of Hobby Japan Magazine Thanks for the kind word!

You're not hijacking my thread at all...your sharing knowledges and feedbacks are most welcome and I'm grateful for that. Your diagram is great! Now I have to make the box to hold the battery.

Neova

thanks for the suggestion bro! I'll definetly find a discreet place for the swtich.

I'll definetly keep you guys posted! Thanks for all your helps!

[The_Major]

Just make sure you use heat tollerent plastic lined with electrical tape for the box as a precaution so you dont melt anything.

[to177]

Will Do! BTW, where could I go to get a "mirco switch"? You know of any site you can redirect me to?

Thanks Major!

[The_Major]

well i do most of my stwitch shoping at Radio shack, the "Micro Switch" is just a small switch like the one you have already, they come one size smaller but the one you have should be fine.

[Mechamaniac]

Hey Major,

Here's what I have as far as the wire system and LED light. It's operates on a small 3V battery. I brought the switch at Radio Shack, but don't even know if it's correct for what I'm trying to achieve...

You'll need a resistor in there as well to make sure that you don't send too much current to the LED. If you do, the LED will either burn out, or burn too hot, and might damage the surrounding plastic.

[The_Major]

thank you mechamaniac i knew there was something i was forgetting. thos can also usualy be purchased at youre local Radio shack

[to177]

Major,

I have try to attached the switch to LED and had no success. I follow your diagram, but the LED is not lighting up. What am I doing wrong? Sorry the picture is not very clear.

Edited May 10, 2004 by to177

[to177]

Thanks MechaManic and Major!

[APU]

connect the wires to the outside post leaving the one in the middle empty

[to177]

Thanks APU!

[The_Major]

Sorry i didnt reply i was at work, but what APU said is correct. good luck

[Neova]

Its been YEARS since I remember anything from my HS electronics class, but I think you need to connect one wire to the middle and one to either end. When the switch is on the side with both wires, its on. When the switch is on the end where a wire is not connected, its off.

BTW: You need to get a resister in there to keep from burning out your LEDs. I can't remember the resistance by the color bands (look this up on the internet) but you need to do some math with the voltage required for LED (total power ), battery power (input power) and resistance required (voltage to subtract).

You can test your LED by touching the TWO ends to both polar terminals ( + and - ends) of the battery too. Check to make sure it has enough juice and it doesn't get too hot.

Edited May 11, 2004 by Neova

[Mechamaniac]

Here's some info about resistors...

http://www.doctronics.co.uk/resistor.htm

[APU]

If you use the middle it will not work. I use the method mentioned for a large diorama I made. Just use enough wire between each LED to space them where you want them.

[Stamen0083]

If the LED doesn't light up, switch the leads. LED's permit current flow in one direction only.

As for resistor... that's not necessary for a watch battery, as those things don't put out nearly enough current to burn out LED's, and since LED's emit light and no heat, there's no worries about burning your plastic, even if your LED's do draw too much current.

The wonders of semiconductors :-D

[to177]

I had a feeling that I was not gonna need a resistor cuz I'm basically trying to apply the same wiring method that's on my 1/60 PG RX-78-2 Gundam. Should of pay close attention of how I went about on the Gundam back then With all the help in here though, I'm sure I'll get this baby to work.

Just curious, how many have customized their toys w/ a LED in here? Please showcase if you have any.

Edited May 11, 2004 by to177

[Neova]

I'm waiting for The_Major to get a digital camera!

Christmas Tree VF-1S would be awesome. I'll perch that Gerwalk on top of my tree!

Oh yeh and the rest of his dioramas!

[The_Major]

Dont worry Neova, its comming, slowly and steadly im saving up for one.

[to177]

I'm waiting for The_Major to get a digital camera!

Christmas Tree VF-1S would be awesome. I'll perch that Gerwalk on top of my tree!

Oh yeh and the rest of his dioramas!

DITTO!

[fernarias]

Why not construct the circuit that comes with the Master Grade LED head replacement (the circuit uses a magnet to turn the LED on and off with no visible switch). The circuit very simple since there are only three components (IC, LED, Battery). The IC is called a Hall Effect Latch IC and costs from 1.50 to 3.00 a piece. Here is a link to a place that sells them.

http://www.melexis.com/prod_webstore.asp

and here is a link that shows how it works:

http://www.melexis.com/relinfo_detail.asp?id=67

For most applications, I would recommend US3881, which is a low voltage (2.2 Volts) IC and sells for $2.07 listed here:

http://www.melexis.com/prodmain.asp?Family=US3881

The circuit is pretty simple, you just connect the battery (watch battery with less than 3V) to Vin and Ground and the LED to Ground and Output.(see IC picture). If you use a battery with a larger voltage, just add a resitor (see below).

F.

Calculating resistor value

An LED must have a resistor connected in series to limit the current through the LED, otherwise it will burn out almost instantly.

The resistor value, R is given by:

R = (VS - VL) / I

VS = supply voltage

VL = LED voltage (usually 2V, but 4V for blue and white LEDs)

I = LED current (e.g. 20mA), this must be less than the maximum permitted

[Jasonc]

Ahhh, the good ol' days of electronics engineering. V=IxR, or in this case, R=V/I. Just make sure your LED can handle 3 volts. If it's not rated to handle that much, then go with the resistor that will drop the voltage to the specification. Use the given formulas to find the resistance needed. Otherwise, buy an led that will match your power supply. I've done this for a few toys, and it's really easy. If you have questions, pm me, I'll help you out.

[to177]

Guys, the Rau is finished and I've posted it in the "toy" thread. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I was able to add the LED, but without any switch. It's sort of GHETTO, but it works! LMK what you guys think!

to177

Q-Rau

[jonwayne]

Sorry, but please allow me to hijacjk this thread. Think it's a good thread for people who wants to makes their toys looks cooler.

Not my macross toys, but my 2 MG Griffon. I fitted a LED into their head:

They definitely looks better then before.

I'm using a 12V DC power supply, coz my display cabinet also uses this voltage. So I only need 1 switch to turn on/off all the lights. As a LED only needs about 3V, I connected it in such a way that there's 3 LED connected in series with a 100 ohm resistor. Hard to go into details, but that's approximately how it's done.

Next, perhaps I'll try to see if I can add in LED to my VF-1S.

Edited October 1, 2006 by jonwayne