Hikuro Posted December 18, 2005 Posted December 18, 2005 Here's some shots of the OYW Gundam, 1.0 (god I really thought I had a 1.5) and my customized GM.
Anubis Posted December 18, 2005 Posted December 18, 2005 The color scheme you used for the GM looks good. The mint worked good with the blue. Matches much better that way. The extra detailing looks good too. I'm contemplating making the GM body grey, gunmetal, or dark blue instead of white. Something slightly different than usual. I'm not sure yet. I'll keep it different than the shade I use on the Ball though.
Black Valkyrie Posted December 18, 2005 Author Posted December 18, 2005 From toysdaily : Nothing new though just more Z Gundam 2.0 and other Gundam pics .
promethuem5 Posted December 18, 2005 Posted December 18, 2005 My two RX-78Gs came, and my GM shipped.... I cracked one of the G boxes before putting them away for X-mas and man are they amazing kits. Looks like a big load of fun.... I'm trying to figure out my work process tho... I think I'll do the two Gs first and then the GM which I'm going to have to actualy paint all the armor... I'm trying to figure out how to do the kits tho... I think if I build the skeleton and then drybrush it with dark silver and give it some washes it will look good without clogging up the joints, and then assemble all the armor and do battle damage and weathering and color scheme after assembly... how do you guys who paint them go around doing it? I can't decide if I'm going to have tp paint the white armor on the Gs either... it seems pretty opaque, but once the skeleton it might seem less so....
Hikuro Posted December 18, 2005 Posted December 18, 2005 I personally always found it easier to paint the model while their still on the tree. That way you wont spray paint on a piece you don't want. Something else I also do, if your putting in your own colors and not that on the original kit, I cut around the trees that hold the parts I want different colors. It'll give the pieces weight so they don't fly everywhere. Now if that same part I'm painting also has to be another color, I use eletrical tape and cut the shapes or length I want so one side is one color and the other is still the color you originally had, then cover that other side when it's completely dry. I've been working off that technique I think........almost 3 years. It's work wonderfully.
promethuem5 Posted December 18, 2005 Posted December 18, 2005 Hmmm.... I'm gonna do a custom scheme I think (lighter blue and maybe not the red....) but I'm not sure about painting on the sprue... because then you still have to fix the spots where they were attatched. I don't really have to worry about overspray because I'm doing it all with a brush anyways.... don't own an airbrush. I will probably end up doing the armor on the sprue come to think of it because I bought a can of light grey primer for my scheme.... duh.
Hikuro Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 I tried brush a few times, it never worked for me. Besides what I'd try to do is match spray colors with bottle colors. Then over those spots I'd take a tooth pick or something and dab it. I was gonna do that on my PG Zaku but after I lost the coil that goes around the head I bagged the whole deal.
azrael Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 I find it easier to do principal painting on the spure. Especially large areas. Small parts, I find harder to paint when separated and if the part is detailed on both sides, I find it easier to paint while still connected to the spure. Less chance I'll touch the painted part. I can do the finer details when I cut it out.
zeo-mare Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 (edited) i take it when you guys are done painting and cut it from the sprue you do not sand the peice?, if so doesnt that just mess the paint job up? i usually cut all the parts from the sprue then sand down the peice where i cut it then airbrush or paint it. this gives the best result. chris Edited December 19, 2005 by zeo-mare
Hikuro Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 I've never sanded 'em......never had a reason too. I generally just clean the parts with dish soap and warm water, leave it alone for a solid day, then paint by colors. If most of the kit is red I do the rest first, or I'll do the mechanics.
wolfx Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 This looks hoaxy. Is this for real? MG Penelope Gundam...or was this the Xi?
Shmitty Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 This looks hoaxy. Is this for real? MG Penelope Gundam...or was this the Xi? Definitely not real, I can't think of a time when Bandai's released box art images before prototype images. And second, the text is all aliased, not a professional thing to leave. But I for one would murder for a Xi or Penelope MG.
Hikuro Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 was checking out amazon just an hour ago. I guess all Zeon suits except the Kampfer are gone I really wanted to get another Zaku for cheap.
promethuem5 Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 Yeah, Amazon has none of the Zeek stuff.... I woulda grabbed a half a down Zaku IIs myself.... As for using brushes on these models... why not? I realize that the size thing might be an issue, but I'm no stranger to brush work... I can't see any reason why it wouldn't come out okay without an airbrush....
zeo-mare Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 This looks hoaxy. Is this for real? MG Penelope Gundam...or was this the Xi? 353467[/snapback] that is the Xi Gundam, i would kill for a nice MG kit of it. chris
Hikuro Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 I don't really find anything wrong with brushing as long as you got some good point. I really only use bottle paint on small parts like vent covers, hydrolics, coil wiring, stuff to give the kits more detail. I started doing it that way.....hmmmmmm I'd say roughly around 3 years ago when I got my Strike 1/60 HG kit.
port Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 My Word! I got to have that one. Please let it be real.
port Posted December 19, 2005 Posted December 19, 2005 Man....I don't know what it is but it's bad to the bone.
promethuem5 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Has anyone built the PG GP-01FB? I really like the design and want either the PG or MG.... And does anyone know why Zakus have the big armor plate on their right arm? Normally you would have the large armor plate on your left arm so you could hold your gun right handed and advance with most of your body protected by the big slab o' armor.... even if you were fighting in close, your left side would be towards the enemy the most. Unless you ewre left-handed, I cannot think of any time you would ever want your extra armor to be on your right side, because this would never be towards the enemy and thus would never ever be of any use....
the white drew carey Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 This may have already been mentioned, and if it has, DON'T HOUND ME ON IT!!! Toys'R'Us, via Amazon, has 4 MG kits for under $10 each. LINKY WINKY
Hikuro Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 It's mentioned every week carey And Zaku's with big armor plating on their right arms is for tackling or too reinforce and protect themselves from attacks like from machine gun's or bazooka shells. It's not perfect protection but they can withstand alot of punishment with those. The Zaku II's design really didn't start to happen till the early stages of the war when the Zaku I's were getting picked off by long barreled tanks and launchers. With that shield when an enemy shell comes their way they can use it for protection for a brief amount of time. Some Zaku's had it equipped right to the arm to use as a battering ram or a better shield protection to be raised near the torso since armor piercing rounds can go thru the torso and kill the pilot. Also I'd stay away from the MG GP01Fb, its not well balanced and the front end of the torso will slide off the core block, its not designed very well above the waist. However I'm pretty sure the PG version is just fine and dandy and can even be converted into a regular GP01 ground type.
promethuem5 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Alright, sounds like I'll wait and get a PG GP-01FB But as for the Zaku armor, I understand why you would have a big slab like that, but my question is why on earth is it on the right arm. When fighting with a gun or sword, your left side will be facing the enemy most of the time if you're right handed, so what good does that extra armor on the right side where it would almost never come into play?
wolfx Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Alright, sounds like I'll wait and get a PG GP-01FBBut as for the Zaku armor, I understand why you would have a big slab like that, but my question is why on earth is it on the right arm. When fighting with a gun or sword, your left side will be facing the enemy most of the time if you're right handed, so what good does that extra armor on the right side where it would almost never come into play? 353706[/snapback] I see what u mean prometheum, it makes sense. Its like why would you hold your shield on the same hand you use to hold a sword.
port Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Has anyone built the PG GP-01FB? I really like the design and want either the PG or MG....And does anyone know why Zakus have the big armor plate on their right arm? Normally you would have the large armor plate on your left arm so you could hold your gun right handed and advance with most of your body protected by the big slab o' armor.... even if you were fighting in close, your left side would be towards the enemy the most. Unless you ewre left-handed, I cannot think of any time you would ever want your extra armor to be on your right side, because this would never be towards the enemy and thus would never ever be of any use.... 353691[/snapback] Hey , Ive built two GP- fb. I like them alot.
Anubis Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Maybe it was specifically to help protect the gun arm from damage? It could also just be a 1979 design oversight. The argument though is probably why Destiny's Zakus have it on the other side though.
F360° Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 hmm but at least they have kinda of shield thingie.. Lots of Mobile Suits don't even have shields at all. Dom, Rick Dom, Kampfer, Z'gok, Gogg, Acguy Rick Dias, Hyaku-Shiki ( just to show how good Char is, why spend time to block when you can just dodge, haha)
wolfx Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 The shields (and armour in general) in UC are pretty much useless anyway. They break after a shot from a missile or beam rifle.
azrael Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Yeah, shields are useless in the UC world. But for the OYW, both sides were still using kinetic weaponry, so to speak. The 90mm/100mm and the Zaku's 120mm cannons were still the primary weaponry for many troops. A shield would still be very useful against that weaponry. Even if the shield would break apart, it would still provide you with some protection. Most likely, the shield was placed on the right to provide the gun arm protection as stated above. The left arm only provided support while the right carried the majority of the weaponry. Concerning the PG GP01/-FB, it does come with parts for both GP01 and GP01-Fb. You can only have 1 version at a time, however.
promethuem5 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Yeah, I'll only be using it as the 01FB though... I like that one alot better. And as for the sheilds, I guess the protecting the gun arm idea works, but then you're prioritizing your weapon over your pilot. Guess it just goes to show how wacky the Zeon really are. Are there any differences in the OYW Master Grades then the normal Master Grades of the same designs besides the faded colors? I kinda want to find a OYW Rick Dom for all the weapons and the less garish pruple scheme, but not the seafoam green Zaku II....
VF-19 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Yeah, I'll only be using it as the 01FB though... I like that one alot better.And as for the sheilds, I guess the protecting the gun arm idea works, but then you're prioritizing your weapon over your pilot. Guess it just goes to show how wacky the Zeon really are. Are there any differences in the OYW Master Grades then the normal Master Grades of the same designs besides the faded colors? I kinda want to find a OYW Rick Dom for all the weapons and the less garish pruple scheme, but not the seafoam green Zaku II.... 353811[/snapback] Just the colour difference. The OYW MG Dom, Zaku II, Gelgoog and Gouf are exactly the same as the original MG releases. Only the OYW MG Gundam is a new kit.
azrael Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 The OYW Gundam is more articulate and more detailed than ver 1.5. They also removed the core-fighter for the articulation. http://211.233.38.221/dalong/mg/m78/m78_p.htm
promethuem5 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Hmm..might have to grab that one too.... dam, there are just too many cool kits to buy. Is there any reason behind the paler colors?
VF-19 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Hmm..might have to grab that one too.... dam, there are just too many cool kits to buy. Is there any reason behind the paler colors? 353841[/snapback] There sure is! MONEY!
Hikuro Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Their pretty much the colors that were used in the OYW video game. While I kept the cream white on the gundam, I used a more authentic red and blue and I turned my Dom into a desert combat type with my Kampfer.
promethuem5 Posted December 20, 2005 Posted December 20, 2005 Oh man.... I just got my GM in the mail and opened it.... all I can say is 'oops...' This kit really isn't on par with any of the other MG releases.... real simple kit to get me started I guess, but I'll obviosuly need one of the 8th MS Team GM Snipers and a GM Ver. Ka to have decent looking ones.... I obvisouly didn't realize at all how radically different the 8th MS Team stuff is.... oops. Has anyone else built this kit? I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to make the knees and elbows more posable.... And I thought I read somewhere that the core block joint is really loose... has anyone else noticed this problem or found a way to correct it?
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