Any tips for airbrush BIG areas?

[David Hingtgen]

Ok, if all goes well, I plan to airbrush the majority of my USS Iowa kit tomorrow/this week. I have a grand total of about 1 hour of airbrushing experience. Now, this is a 1/350 battleship, which means I have pieces from 4 to 30 inches long. (Most 1-3 inches though, only a half-dozen surpass 6 inches ).

Now, I've got it primered with a nice light grey, so I should definitely be able to get one-coat coverage. (Since it ALMOST did it with a much darker background when I was doing some testing on the undersides).

Anyways, unlike most "fine spray/dot/camoflage/weathering" uses for airbrushes, I'm using it to cover BIG areas with a nice even coat. Any hints/suggestions for thinning, air pressure, etc? I just want to cover several square feet (it's big, I can sit Yammies on the aft deck) with a single color. (And then repeat the process late for all the decks with a different color).

[Commander McBride]

What kind of airbrush are you using? It may affect the techniques.

[VF-19]

Well... Depending on the airbrush (single action double action etc...) it would be very easy to cover large areas.

I've only had my airbrush for about 2 months now, and I've had the same amount of airbushing time. What I do is I practice using water on some cardboard. I fiddle with the airpressure, and the paint flow (I have a single action badger 200) until I get a spray pattern I want. Usually I keep my airpressure at about 20 psi. What you can do is make the spray size about the height of the ship, from the bottom of the boat, up to the main deck (not to the height of where the bridge is, as it's among the highest points of the ship). Spray in long even strokes, and don't stop half way through (you'll hate yourself for it). Spray anywhere from 6-8 inches away from the boat, and thin your paint properly. By properly (for acyrlics) I mean milk consitency. Go to your fridge, pour a glass of milk, and shake your milk around and observe how it sloshes. Drink the milk (something that's good for you anyways), and then thin your paint to about that consitency. Too thin, and it will run on the model, and too thick and it will clog your airbrush. To thin acyrilcs, you'll need rubbing alcohol in the 70% type. The pure alcohol may dry too fast.

Anyways, I hope I was of some help, but I can be more helpful if you provide lots of details (airbrush brand, make and model numer, paint type, etc...).

[David Hingtgen]

Airbrush: super el-cheapo Testors. (Hey, I plan to airbrush like 3 kits in the next 3 years--I'm not spending much---90% of what I need I can get in a spray, this is ONLY for those colors I cannot buy in a spray) Yes, I plan to do it from a can of propellent. (Hey, I've got several by this point) I know I know, everybody on this forum would say get a real airbrush and a compressor. But I'm not going to spend that kind of money for the few models I do. If anybody made a spray-can color even close to what I need, I'd use it.

Paint: Model Master Acrylic Marine.

So assume I'll have little control over the PSI, as it's pretty much on/off with these. (And rather high AFAIK). But I am used to this, for it's all I've ever done with airbrushing. Paint flow/thinning is about the only variable.

Anyways, my main problem lately has been the paint clogging/clumping, as right at the nozzle. It sometimes doesn't even get to the air stream it seems. Will sometimes leave "clumps" of semi-dry paint deposited onto the surface. The only reference I can find (and it matches my symptoms exactly) in a Fine Scale Modeler indicates I should thin the paint even more. --but I'm already thinning it more than recommended. (3:1 paint/thinner)

[Valkyrie]

I'm thinking that if you don't want to invest in a good airbrush and a compressor, you should stick with spray paint for large areas like that. In my experience, crappy airbrushes always give crappy results.

I had two testors airbrushes, and both frustrated the hell out of me. Then I finally broke down and bought a Badger 150 dual action and a compressor. That was 4 years ago. I still use it to this day.

[David Hingtgen]

But as I said--if there was any color even close to what I need in a spray, I'd use it. I got acceptable results last time, but that was the first time out of several attempts. I'm looking for advice so that I can consistently replicate what I got a week ago, rather than trial and error every time (wasting much paint and thinner).

[VF-19]

Well... You do have a tiny bit of control with spray cans, as the airbrush set comes with a primitive pressure regulator. You basically turn the dial, which opens up the valve on the can. When I used to use a can (and I only did once), I'd spend a minute or so, fiddling with the regulator. It's best to play around with it first before you go and airbrush.

[B-52 GUNNER]

If you are using a can of propell you need to set it in a bowl of warm water. As the propell is used the can cools down and the presure drops.

Make sure to start spraying from left to right 2 or 3 inches to the front of the kit and don't stop till you pass the end of the kit. This will keep spit out down to a minimum. Spray from a distance of 8 - 10 inches and watch out for runs in the paint.

If you plan on applying decals to the hull or any part make sure you are spraying a gloss paint so that the decal won't silver over. after the decals are applied you can spray a Flat (Dull/Matt) Clear Coat over the gloss and the decals will look like they were painted on.

Even a cheap air brush is better than a spray can if it is used properly. Practice on something you don't mind messing up first so your ship isn't ruined.

Hope this helps.

Scot