Has anyone notice yellowing on their Yamato?

[CID]

Today, I decided to take one of my valks out of the display case and transform it. I took one of my YAMATO VF-1A Hikaru 1/60 out of the display case and placed it on a coffee table, where a florescent light is hanging over.

Surprisingly, what I notice was a yellowing around the area of the shoulder and arms (Where majority of the plastic is concentrated).

First of all, this is by no means to alarm 1/60 collector into panic.

Secondly, I do not remember if I bought this valk used (It might be that the previous owner had unusually greasy and/or sweaty hands) and never really noticed it, until now.

Thirdly, My house is situated right in the hart of the San Fernando Valley, near California. Meaning, the sun is extreme through out the day and I usually leave the louvers (Shades) opened.

I would like to know if any other 1/60 or for that matter, 1/48 Yamato collectors notice this problem. This only pertains to YAMATO. I think we all know about Bandai and Takatoku, etc…..

[Southcross]

hrmmm sounds like something for the: What's wrong with my.... thread

[Fat_Bot]

I've had my Max VF1a on display put of its package for over a year now and havent notived any yellowing, but it's not in any direct sunlight and I make sure it's not too close to any lamps or overhead lights.

The thing ive noticed about yellowing before though is that it continues to get worse after things are removed form the light. Ive put away things with no noticable yellowing, got them out a year or so later and they are as yellow as hell.

I guess once the damage is done there is no stopping the process.

[fifbeat]

I thought this ABS plastic stuff wasn't supposed to "yellow"?

What kind of plastic did they use one the chunky monkey old school valks?

[eugimon]

have the original version of the 1/60 VF-1s, been out of box sine it first came out and no signs of yellowing.

Live in south orange county. mine has not been in direct sun.

my 1/48 vf-la hikaru (first release) has also been out of box and has had direct sun, and also has no signs of yellowing.

My jetfire, before it mysteriously disapeared, was yellow... yellow like like the teeth of a smoker.

[captain america]

Actually, while we're on the topic of yellowing, here's a question for those of you who have multiple 1/48s.

I recieved a brand new VF-1J Hikaru about 2 weeks ago, and one of my first impressions was that the light grey plastic seemed just a touch "warm" in hue. Now the problem is that this is my first and only 1/48 Valk for the time being *dodges tomatoes* so I don't have any other 1/48s to compare it to.

I promptly took an old T-shirt and some rubbing alcohol and proceeded to wipe-down the toy, just in case the yellow was a result of an assembly line worker's dirty hands, but to my surprise, the cloth stayed clean. Essentially, Is the Hik 1J the same color plastic as the previous releases?

[pfunk]

I thought this ABS plastic stuff wasn't supposed to "yellow"?

What kind of plastic did they use one the chunky monkey old school valks?

ABS will yellow, they use additives in the plastic to make it "UV stable" for example, a high heat ABS (mostly ussed in automotive molded in color) will resist yellowing but most plastics in general are suseptible to "drying out" or becoming brittle and yellowing

[fifbeat]

My jetfire, before it mysteriously disapeared, was yellow... yellow like like the teeth of a smoker.

LMAO!

[Jawjaw]

I try to keep all my stuff out of the sun at all times. If you leave anything in the sun long enough, it will do damage. If someone has a busted Yamato part, maybe they could experiment for us by leaving it in the bright sun for a few weeks.

captain america: The 1/48 VF-1J is a little more white than the 1/60 version. The 1/48 VF-1J is also a different white than the DYRL 1/48's - not much but a little. I'm not sure how to explain the difference but neither look yellow in hue to me.

[NSJ23]

I had 3 1/60 VF-1A Hikaru, all three yellowed.Two were on display and one was never removed from the box.

So far none of my other 1/60's or 1/48 have shown any signs of yellowing.

EDIT :

My 1/60 TRU VF-1A Brownie also yellowed.

Edited March 20, 2004 by NSJ23

[Weaseldancer]

So far none of my Yamato's have yellowed. All of them are displayed out of the box but I do keep them out of direct sunlight.

[NSJ23]

but I do keep them out of direct sunlight.

So I ask, does anyone keep there Valks in direct sunlight?

[Zentrandude]

one of my 1:48 vf-1s is never in direct sunlight but the top of the head seam is starting to yellow. think its looks cool somewhat. like a yellow mohawk.

[CID]

Great

Now I need to spend several thousand $$ to place awning for the windows. No wonder my G/F complains about "Where is my ring that you promised".

She should indirectly know that her potential ring funds are helping my Macross collections stay safe from the environment.

[Eternal_D]

yah, when I put my 1/60's away, I noticed the vf-1a on display was yellowed compared to the one I kept inside the original case box. didn't really see compare the other ones...but my guess they're probably discolored as well. my toys are out of direct sunlight for the most part...but my valks are all in a display case and definitely no direct light goes in there.

[Radd]

The oldest Yamato Valkyrie I own is my 1/60 Max VF-1A....no yellowing at all, nor on any of my other Valkyries.

Then again I'm a nightshifter and have thick blankets hung over my bedroom windows...so that probably helps.

[fifbeat]

CID, take a photo.

[CID]

CID, take a photo.

If you can ask more politely I may be able to post the photos tonight. Then again my camera is only a 2mg and I do not know if it will clearly show the yellowing.

[SSD619Valkfan]

My first post on MW World ever! I've got yellowing on my 1/60 Hikaru 1A as well. I noticed that the overall color scheme of subsequent valks is different than that initial 1A. All the other valks I own are grey instead of the full-on white of the Hikaru 1A and haven't yellowed at all (1A Max DYRL, 1S Roy, 1S Roy Strike, 1J FAST, 1D, 1A Cannon). Is it possible for the grey plastic to fade or yellow?

[captain america]

I may have a solution to the problem of yellowing plastic:

Castrol Super Clean is designed to, among other things, clean yellowed patio furniture and plastic microwave trim parts. Technically, this will probably work for the Valks as well, but the only thing I can't say for certain is whether this will also affect (damage) the painted surfaces. For those of you who have broken/spare valks, you can probably give this a try on the underside of one of the parts to see if it reacts.

The best way to go about this is to dilute the Castrol Super Clean ( 16 parts water, 1 part Super Clean) and proceed to gently scrub the part with an old toothbrush. Rinse immediately, being sure to NOT let the solution dry on the plastic.

Hopefully this would be a successful solution.

[gnollman]

Castrol Super Clean may not be a good idea. This stuff strips paint like no one's business... I use it regularly to strip Warhammer minis I buy off of eBay...

A dilute solution may work, though... but don't soak, and try to make sure you get it all off.

Edited March 20, 2004 by gnollman

[danth]

Here are some possible solutions: this thread from robot-japan talks about using bleach.

If anyone figures this out let me know. My freaking Joke Machine has yellowed! (just found out today)

[hirohawa]

My 1/60 VF 1A Hikaru yellowed on the arms and the head. Painted it white and coated it with UV resistant coating and so far it is fine.

[Beware of Blast]

In time, I guess all plastics will yellow. The only problem is that the yellowing is not consistent on the different parts of the toy, because of the different plastics used. My 1/60 Hikaru has proven that - his biceps and fists are yellower than the rest of his other white plastic parts, and the whiter plastic parts are yellower than the yellowed white-painted metal parts. If I have a Pantone code book now, I can easily give you 3 different yellow color codes no problem!

My 1/48 Hikaru VF1A that has also yellowed however, is very consistent on all his parts. This consistency of the yellowing effect, is quite nice actually, so I'm not as bothered with the 1/48 as I am with the 1/60 Hikaru - He just looks a little weathered.

[bongcp45]

My 1/48 Hikaru VF1A that has also yellowed however, is very consistent on all his parts. This consistency of the yellowing effect, is quite nice actually, so I'm not as bothered with the 1/48 as I am with the 1/60 Hikaru - He just looks a little weathered.

any chance of getting a "desert low vis" toning from the yellowing?

[Beware of Blast]

My 1/48 Hikaru VF1A that has also yellowed however, is very consistent on all his parts. This consistency of the yellowing effect, is quite nice actually, so I'm not as bothered with the 1/48 as I am with the 1/60 Hikaru - He just looks a little weathered.

any chance of getting a "desert low vis" toning from the yellowing?

I don't think so. From a distance, my 1/48 Hikaru is still "white". But you never know what a few more years might do to it.

[pfunk]

I may have a solution to the problem of yellowing plastic:

Castrol Super Clean is designed to, among other things, clean yellowed patio furniture and plastic microwave trim parts. Technically, this will probably work for the Valks as well, but the only thing I can't say for certain is whether this will also affect (damage) the painted surfaces. For those of you who have broken/spare valks, you can probably give this a try on the underside of one of the parts to see if it reacts.

The best way to go about this is to dilute the Castrol Super Clean ( 16 parts water, 1 part Super Clean) and proceed to gently scrub the part with an old toothbrush. Rinse immediately, being sure to NOT let the solution dry on the plastic.

Hopefully this would be a successful solution.

The plasctic that was designed for is a PVC, i would check with the manufacturer (Castrol) before aplying it too ABS, not to mention if the plastic is painted, so laquers, acrilics, and enamels also

[Neova]

You guys got me all concerned over my 100+ investsments. So here is what I want to know, especially to guys with BIG collections like Graham, Sithlord XSTOYS and others:

Do you guys WASH your valkyries to remove residue, finger prints, and other contaminants before you display them?

Do you also COAT your newly cleaned Valkyries with anti UV and /or clear coats to protect them? Model guys like Kurt, Jung, mlz22 and wmcheng, chime in here!!!

Or did you guys just toss them on the shelves, leave them in the boxes and had no yellowing?

One thing I heard was to seal the toys AIR TIGHT in a tub. Seems that along with UV, oxidation of the plastic will yellow it. So perhaps a coat of future + matte finish will prevent a lot of yellowing.

I saw Graham's YF-19 boxed pictures and man, they sure looked yellow to me. I'm worried about my 1/48s that are still in boxes until I settle down and buy some display cabinets. I might need to give them all a squeeky clean bath, before placing them back into storage.

Edited March 22, 2004 by Neova

[eugimon]

uhm, the yf-19 isn't supposed to be white... that tan colour is the right colour for it.

Asked my GF about it, she's a materials engineer and she says that it is mostly the UV rays that cause plastics to yellow, so keep em away from sun and florescent lighting.

... she also laughed at me and called me a geek. so sad now. sob sob.

[Neova]

I know the YF-19 is not white but from the boxed pictures, it appeared there where multiple shades of tan (some darker, some lighter, some with yellow tinge). I brought that up since I saw a MISB YF-19 on some store's shelf and it had a very consistant tan shade, unlike Graham's pictures. It could just be the pictures though.

I think I'm going to apply a coat of anti-uv spray after I detail up the Valkyries. Thanks for the tip!

[CID]

Does the anti-UV "Stuff" prevent Valks from turning yellow? If so how effective are they?

Can you guys offer some name brands and names of those stuffs? I would like to give a try on those products.

Thanks for any info in advance....

[Neova]

Off the top of my head, 3M.

They have stuff in spray cans but it would be nice if the product is available in a big bottle. This way, I can airbrush it on, then seal the whole thing up with a future acrylic floor polish + matte coat combo. or perhaps mix it into the future and matte coat.

[CID]

Off the top of my head, 3M.

They have stuff in spray cans but it would be nice if the product is available in a big bottle. This way, I can airbrush it on, then seal the whole thing up with a future acrylic floor polish + matte coat combo. or perhaps mix it into the future and matte coat.

Thanks Neova

I forgot to ask one more question.

Does it harm the paint or other material on the valks???

I have no idea on this type of things.

Thanks,

[Myersjessee]

All of mine look fine...all out...all in a basement...non-smoker, dehumids, low light...not flourescent..but everytime this comes up I panic...man...I swear Ill carbon freeze them if I have too!

[Neova]

3M coating products should not harm paint, ink or decal or anything. I know the anti-UV products (and their clearcoats) were designed for paint (walls), inkjets, printers, high quality print ads and other commerical grade stuff.

The hardest part is actually finding it for normal guys like us. Perhaps the graphics designers here can help us out cuz I can't find enough info on their website. www.3m.com