1/72 Hasegawa VF-0S Step-by-step...

[David Hingtgen]

I use microSET, but I always make sure to put some on the model itself, where the decal is to be applied. That way, you have some under the decal, not just brushed on top.

For me, I believe a key thing about decal application is letting the solution WORK, then blotting out the excess water. The decal isn't "on" until it has taken on the same texture as the paint it's laying on. THEN you get to start blotting out that last bit of water trapped under the decal. Getting the decal to conform, getting the water out, preventing silvering, and decal solution, are all parts of the same step, really. It all goes together, and there isn't truly a set order.

I myself tend to use massive amounts of microSET, and brush and squeegee away until the decal has conformed to the surface (and if it's conformed TIGHTLY to the surface, that means there can't be any water under it, can there? They go together). It takes time---the solution won't soften the decal enough to conform in 10 secs. Decal needs to be soft, to be able to really get tight against the surface. I've never liked microSOL, as I really, really fiddle with my decals to get them perfect--but no touching when you've microSOL'd a decal!

Yes, my method takes time, and goes against what most people say (I like to apply over rough flat finishes, hate gloss, never use strong solutions) but I do get amazing results, I can decal with the very best.

Edited March 10, 2004 by David Hingtgen

[Grayson72]

One thing about microSET, never ever apply microSol to a decal that's just been applied with microSET. If you need microSOL to get the decal into some really tite spots then wait for the microSET to completely dry or the decal will curl like a mother and be pretty much ruined.

[electric indigo]

Does anybody have experience with Mr. Mark Softer?

On the "lineart" topic: I'm pretty sure that the Hase staff has access to the CG models of Macross Zero, so any deviation from that might be a concession to economic issues.

-i-

[VF-19]

One thing about microSET, never ever apply microSol to a decal that's just been applied with microSET. If you need microSOL to get the decal into some really tite spots then wait for the microSET to completely dry or the decal will curl like a mother and be pretty much ruined.

I kinda figured that already. It's pretty much the only thing I remember from chemestry in high school. When in doubt, do not mix.

Also: I opened up the bag to my Hase VF-1A... And it's missing 2 entire sprues!!! Oh well... Back to the store...

[wm cheng]

Sorry to hear about your troubles VF-19 - Yes, listen to David, MicroSET is much more flexible in use and acts like a much weaker version of MicroSOL. However, I have experienced that too much MicroSET also eats up the decals too - while yes, generally you have much more latitude with the SET, it still must be used with care. I only use MicroSOL for the really tough stuff (maybe 5% of all my decalling).

However, I do suggest decalling onto a glossy surface (decalling onto flat finishes will always give way to silvering - it just depends on how dark the surface is, the darker it is the more silvering appears, the lighter it is, you just can't see it as clearly - but trust me, its there ), then clear-coat the decal and finish with flat/matte coat if that is the desired finish in the end. Anyways, the sheen of the decals will never match the sheen of your paint, so you should always clear-coat over top of the decals.

Edited March 10, 2004 by wm cheng

[VF-19]

An update to the missing parts on the 1A:

I called the store which sold me the 1A, and they agreed to allow me to grab the parts trees that I need (1 of Q, and 1 of K). Just to make sure, aside from the head, some slight nose cone differences (mainly where the head sits), and the decals, pretty much the body of the Hasegawa VF-1 models can be interchanged? They have the Angel Birds and the Hikaru 1J in stock.

[David Hingtgen]

The only silvering I've ever encountered (asides from those tiny spots which will appear no matter what) is when I decal over gloss.

Yes, I know, everyone else on Earth swears by ultra-gloss triple-layer-future as a base for decals, but it just doesn't work for me. I go over raw flat paint.

I might also add that I trim *all* the excess clear away---no clear, no silvering. (I have dedicated decal scissors).

[Graham]

On the "lineart" topic: I'm pretty sure that the Hase staff has access to the CG models of Macross Zero, so any deviation from that might be a concession to economic issues.

-i-

To the best of my knowledge, neither Yamato or Hasegawa have been given access to CG models of the mecha from Macross Zero. All they have been given is some CG stills, e.g. side view, top view, some angled views, plus a very small quantity of lineart. Apparently Kawamori is still working on the definitive lineart, which is one of the reasons why there is no TIAS book yet and why only a couple of peices of lineart have so far been published.

Graham

[electric indigo]

Sounds like they could learn a thing or two from Lucasfilm...

And producing final lineart after the CG models have been build?! How could that make sense?

-i-

[Chronocidal]

Actually, sometimes it's easier to make the model before the blueprints. A lot of times, I've just started building from concept art, without ever really defining each and every detail. It makes the modeling process easier, since you're not concerned with accuracy so much as making it look good. I've made entire 3d models in a couple of days from a couple of sketches, but it sometimes takes me weeks to duplicate a set of bluprints. It may just be my way of modeling, but I think it's easier to model if you leave some room for on the spot creativity.

[GunnerX]

Master Cheng! Any more updates?!?!

[wm cheng]

Sorry guys - the VF-0s is on the backburner for a week. I am working now, so its only the weekends, and it was my wife's b-day last weekend (and part of this weekend ) and I am hoping to do my tax returns this weekend.

Believe me, I am anxious to get back on it!!

[David Hingtgen]

I still want to see you do a ship or an airliner some day. (Hey, Hase makes nice airliners, I'm sure you could build one in a day or two)

[izzyfcuk]

Of course I had to re-scribe the panel line details that were lost when I rounded over the edges (I used the Hasegawa Tri-tool microsaws for this job - they are tiny photo-etched saws - you can buy them from HLJ) They are invaluable in recovering lost panel lines especially around seams and filled joints.

WM Cheng,

may i know what i the model for the tri-tools microsaw? i did a search on HLJ and found that there r several ones, i could really use that microsaw..

thanks in advance

[recon]

Of course I had to re-scribe the panel line details that were lost when I rounded over the edges (I used the Hasegawa Tri-tool microsaws for this job - they are tiny photo-etched saws - you can buy them from HLJ)  They are invaluable in recovering lost panel lines especially around seams and filled joints.

WM Cheng,

may i know what i the model for the tri-tools microsaw? i did a search on HLJ and found that there r several ones, i could really use that microsaw..

thanks in advance

I think the ones that Wmcheng uses are from the hasegawa series, in which i would highly recommend it as the set gives a wide range and variety of saw suited for different jobs and purposes. You should be able to get it in the local stores here quite easily.

Cheers

[izzyfcuk]

thanks louis.. any recommendations in sing? and what is it called in local hobby shop?

[wm cheng]

Hey izzy, its the second set - the one with the curves.

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?HSGTP-4

Good luck.

[izzyfcuk]

thanks a lot WM.. i could really use that! i look forward to more of ur inspiring updates, it has really help me a lot as im currently juz got started on model kits

thanks again

[recon]

Hey izzyfcuk,

You can get get it at hobbypoint tiong bahru in SG, but wait till i check cos i seem to have a spare set. Will notify you about it if i do have one spare set to give it to ya.

Cheers

[izzyfcuk]

that' s great louis

[wm cheng]

Sorry Guys...

Had to do my Mom's taxes this last weekend. But I am foreseeing a relatively free weekend ahead except for a doctor's appointment. Can't wait to get back into the fray...

[Gumper]

you should have asked one of us, we would have done your moms taxes for her so we could see more of the build up. lol.

[Terpfen]

Huh.  That is an *old-school* fan spinner.  Looks like it's from the 60's.  (Hey, I've stuck my head up many an intake).  Wonder if that actually follows Kawamori's intentions/design, or is Hasegawa just guessing/swiping F-4 parts? 

Military jet blades haven't changed appearance much over the years, it's really only evident in airliners.  Ever seen a GE90-115B's blades?  "Wicked" is the only way to describe them.

Well, let's solve this problem with a couple of screencaps. To view these, copy/paste the URLs into your address bar.

Capture 1

That's the VF-0S' fan as captured from episode 1 of Mac Zero. At least, that's the scene that Stamen0083 was referring to. Now...

Capture 2

This is a capture from Mac Zero ep 2. Raizo is yelling at Shin for his handling of his VF-0D during the training sequence. It's not really specified for sure, but I believe the fan blades behind him are the VF-0D's. This is for another person to answer, but given that they're both VF-0 series planes, I'm sure they'd use the same fan blades, even though the VF-0D isn't quite as fast or as good a performer as the VF-0S.

So, unless wm_cheng wants to scratchbuild the stuff seen in the first screencap, then the blades Hasegawa included are correct enough.

[David Hingtgen]

I'm getting "page unavailable".

Also, I said the fan SPINNER looked funny, not the fan blades.

[Terpfen]

I'm getting "page unavailable".

Also, I said the fan SPINNER looked funny, not the fan blades.

Did you copy/paste the URLs into your address bar? They just loaded for me.

Either way, the screencaps are relevant; I'm not knowledgable in aircraft terminology and history, so I'm just guesstimating the name of the section in question.

[Stamen0083]

From Terpfen's post, "Capture 1" is a shot of the afterburner rings, "Capture 2" is a shot of the compressor fan. Both are accurate on the Hasegawa model:

http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...F-Burners02.jpg

Damn, it's a pity that I didn't take close up shots of my VF-0S' ejection seat... But be proud of me, WM, for I polished the VF-0S canopy with no incident, not like the unsightly crack on my VF-1S canopy

Edited March 28, 2004 by Stamen0083

[David Hingtgen]

Got them to work by cutting and pasting the URL.

As was said, shot 1 is the turbine/burner-ring. Wrong end of the engine. But Hase got it right!

Shot 2--shows the blades, but can't see the spinner at all.

Spinner: the pointy-rounded part in the middle of the fan, all the blades are arranged around it.

So I still don't have a pic of the 1st stage fan's spinner, which is the only part I'm concerned about. The only reason I brought it up is because it just looks so 60's-ish to me. Either Hase guessed, or Kawamori made a rather unusual choice for a modern spinner design.

Of course--a head-on view (which is what 99% of engine shots will be) won't help much, since you can't see anything but a circle. I really need like a cutaway, or a schematic of just the engine itself. (The best way to see spinners is to stick your head up the intake yourself--which I do whenever I can, but that won't work in this case)

[Terpfen]

Got them to work by cutting and pasting the URL.

As was said, shot 1 is the turbine/burner-ring. Wrong end of the engine. But Hase got it right!

Shot 2--shows the blades, but can't see the spinner at all.

Spinner: the pointy-rounded part in the middle of the fan, all the blades are arranged around it.

So I still don't have a pic of the 1st stage fan's spinner, which is the only part I'm concerned about. The only reason I brought it up is because it just looks so 60's-ish to me. Either Hase guessed, or Kawamori made a rather unusual choice for a modern spinner design.

Of course--a head-on view (which is what 99% of engine shots will be) won't help much, since you can't see anything but a circle. I really need like a cutaway, or a schematic of just the engine itself. (The best way to see spinners is to stick your head up the intake yourself--which I do whenever I can, but that won't work in this case)

Well, I said you need to copy/paste the URL. Told you it would work!

Alright, the spinner... screencap grabbed. This is from episode 2. You can see the spinner on the left side, just over some mechanic's shoulder. It's a side view, and it's the VF-0D's, but it's good enough.

Link

[Captain Angel]

I don't think it would make a difference as to whether the spinner is from the S, D, A, or whatever. They are all using the same engine... not the reactor like they had hoped.

PS: what i particularly like about that shot, is you get to see what the frame around the engine looks like, in case anyone would ever want to do a maintinence diorama...

Edited March 28, 2004 by Captain Angel

[David Hingtgen]

Well it looks to me from that pic that the VF-0's engine has a nice short, rather flat spinner. (AKA modern) As opposed to the kit's long, hemisphere-tipped tubular one. (There's LOTS of ways to describe that shape, only a few of which are G-rated)

[Stamen0083]

Well it looks to me from that pic that the VF-0's engine has a nice short, rather flat spinner. (AKA modern)

You mean similar to the one seen on the VF-1 kits?

[David Hingtgen]

I don't know off the top of my head what the Hase VF-1 spinner looks like. (I actually haven't bought any 1/72 Hase kits yet---YF-19 if anything, but they cost as much if not more than Tomcats)

[Terpfen]

PS: what i particularly like about that shot, is you get to see what the frame around the engine looks like, in case anyone would ever want to do a maintinence diorama...

There are other angles and shots that accomplish far more than the last screencap. Eps 1 and 2 both show the engines without any armor on, and from a side view no less.

Edit: Now that we've solved this little problem... where'd wm_cheng go?

Edited March 29, 2004 by Terpfen

[wm cheng]

Hey everybody - long time no see...

Well, I only got a few hours on it today - it was good to get back into it though - will try a few hours in the next few days as well.

Not much interesting to report - basically I am at the sanding stage - a lot of boring sanding, washing, inspecting, re-applying Mr. Surfacer in spots that need more filling and then more sanding and washing and inspecting... repeat and rise This is the part I hate about modelling, but if you don't do it properly, you'd be sorry when you start painting.

Here's a few shots of where we left off last, after sanding down the major ridges, I applied Mr. Surfacer 1000 (since it was very minor seams).

[wm cheng]

Here's an important seam to get perfect, its really visible when you are finished, and remember to scribe back those panel lines that run across the seam. Had to becareful especially around that vernier (circle with the handle through it) to not loose it, since the engraving is quite light - luckily, a decal is provided for this so we don't have to rely on the wash to pick it out