Panel Lining

[flippant_remark]

Don't worry I'm not going to ask how to do panel lining.

I've read enough posts to know how to do that (just have to find where to get a gundam marker)

What I want to know is how good soes it look in reality?

In photos it looks great because it brings the detail out from under the harsh flash light.

But to the naked eye I'm afraid the effect would be too "heavy" and would actually reduce the realism of the model.

Panel liners. I'd value your thoughts.

[DrClay]

if someone is a panel liner then obciously they think it looks good, or else they wouldn't be a panel-liner, showin' it off on the internet

[flippant_remark]

Yeah. I suppose you're right.

I'll just have to take the plunge and find out for myself.

[DrClay]

what's a 140 bucks anyways?

[wolfx]

I took some dude's advice (the dude who did the TV Max custom i think), and used gundam marker to line my VF-1S valk, and then use an eraser to clean them up. It looks great! I'm abit afraid to line the head lasers though, cause not very sure how i'm gonna get enough space for me to line them properly and erase them without breaking them.

Advice needed: would it turn out ok if I lined the yellow stripes on the chest panel? I left that our for now cause I fear it might look weird.

[kanata67]

I heard having a q-tip and alcohol was great for cleaning up fresh marker overlay from abbott but have yet to try it myself. Somewhere I have pics of a panel-lined jetfire [pencil] before and after if it's of use. At the very least I'd recommend using a mechanical pencil on an area and see if you like the effect as you can alway whipe it off. I like the effect of panel lining on my loose toys and customs but wouldn't do it to a MIB bandai seeker as $ is a factor on toys going for that much $ for me.

I wouldn't panel line the yellow bit you mentioned unless there are raised/depressed bits present already. The point is to bring out the details of the plastic... not to fake them. Not that it couldn't be done well... but I'd like to see WM do it first to see what can be done

[mechaninac]

I've used both types of Grey fine point Gundam markers on my 1/48s and find that they give a nice effect to the toy (the felt tip is specially good); they are not as harsh in appearance as the black pen. I tryed the black on my first 1/60 (VF-1A Hikaru) and hated it...the contrast was just too jarring; but the grey, once toned down by rubbing with your finger or the eraser trick (gotta try that next time) will be just dark enough to make the lines stand out.

Other people will swear by using paint washes to do the panneling, and although I'm sure the results are superior to the pens, the extra hassle of having to spray a protective "varnish" over the toy does not justify this method...it's a toy after all and meant to be handled (clear coats have a nasty tendency to collect skin oils and dirt over time). IMHO, unless you intend to treat your toy like a static display model that is only touched on rare occasions, than I suggest the Gundam marker rout...no clear coat necessary.

Edited February 17, 2004 by mechaninac

[Solscud007]

I heard having a q-tip and alcohol was great for cleaning up fresh marker overlay from abbott but have yet to try it myself.

Gndam markers are usually alcohol based. But they wipe off really easily when applied. Draw the line in the panel and then use a qtip to lightly wipe excess. Even a kleenex or cotton balls work well.

i highly suggest using the smallest gundam marker possible. 01 I think is the smallest. however there are some art markers that are 005 size. I cant remember the name gotta go home and check my markers.

The best IMHO for white bodied toys is to use a grey color. Black seems too contrast and can seem unrealistic. Its too dark

For brown and tan colors red works really well. cant exlain it but it does. As long as you avoid heavy thick lines you shold be fine.

[rocco_77]

I wasn't aware that it was necessary to put a clear coat over panel lines done with a wash method... I thought the only time to use a clear coat would be in you actually repainted the entire surface... Could someone clarify? Thanks.

[Rabidweezil]

I have panel lined all my Valks with the fine gray gundam markers. I'd never have an un-lined valk again...

Unless it became illegal or something

the lining really ads to the realism and gives the Valk a slightly used look. But if you are going for the "fresh off the production line" look, then don't panel line. Otherwise you really should.

The only thing I have noticed about the gray fine markers, is they fray really fast. A couple of uses and the tip gets to thick and starts to work like a crayon. I end up replacing them very often. Glad they are somewhat cheap.

[EXO]

The only thing I have noticed about the gray fine markers, is they fray really fast. A couple of uses and the tip gets to thick and starts to work like a crayon. I end up replacing them very often. Glad they are somewhat cheap.

so that happens to all of the gray ones? I just finished my VF-1J and the tip is all frayed already.

I use alcohol swipes for clean up. They're little wipes that already have the alcohol in them.

[bandit29]

i highly suggest using the smallest gundam marker possible. 01 I think is the smallest. however there are some art markers that are 005 size. I cant remember the name gotta go home and check my markers.

I have a few .005 markers. IIRC, the name Sakura something or other. I bought them at Michaels. National chain I believe. A7 told me about them and he's in California and I'm in Chicago. Gundam markers are too big and require too much clean up.

I used black on my Hikaru VF-1S and the FP armor. I like it. Since the VF-1 isn't real I'm not going for a realistic look. As long as you keep the lines thin its fine. Really thick black lines look bad.

[Cpt. Bukkake]

I recommend the use of a gray marker in lieu of a black one.

[wm cheng]

I personally am a fan of paint washes - I find the Gundam Markers just too thick. Becarefull if you are doing it over the painted colours, the solvent to wipe off the gundam markers might take some of the coloured stripes off with it.

With painted washes, you can make really light grey lines that are very subtle and can feather the "trapped" grease from around the coloured circular disc at the leg "ankles" which really adds to the look. I don't think you need to seal the oil wash in anything as long as you leave sufficient time for it to fully dry and cure (several days). However, I always put on a protective clear-coat to seal in the stickers on my 1/60 or decals on my 1/48s.

[mechaninac]

The master has spoken...case closed.

[Skull 001]

If you aren't real sure use a pencil and not seal it. You should use a pencil anyway it just is better than a black marker.

[GreatMoose]

I use a variety of pencils, and then seal it with clear coat. Looks FANTASTIC in reality, but it's tricky to get the lighting right in photos.

[Shmitty]

If you don't want to do a paint wash, a fine point paint pen/marker is probably the best way to go. Although, I remember when I first started paneling Gundam models, I didn't have access to gundam markers or any other type of paint pens, so I just used a toothpic and some black model paint; line it, let it set for a bit, wipe off the excess. I guess thats an altenate for those without markers, heh.

[flippant_remark]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I wasn't expecting such a generous response.

Paint washes?

I've used ink washes before when painting wargame minatures so I asume it's basically the same thing.

Watered down black or gray acrylic paint applied and then wiped off with a wet tissue or sponge.

[kanata67]

yep... same as gaming mini's. I still use citadel paint in fact . Just remember a little goes a long way.

I wanna know if wm uses water based acrlic, oil based, or what?

[wm cheng]

I use Tamiya acrylics for almost all my painting, sealed with a ModelMaster Laquer Clear-coat.

For the panel washes, I use artist oil paints, thinned down with low-odour Varsol (mineral spirits)