1/48 VF-19A Excalibur [VF-X RAVENS]

[Rock]

Pace slowed a bit as warm weather peaked out for a few days. It doesn't help that all the smaller bits need extensive seam work (gun barrels were atrocious and ended up more oval than round!) 


Various bits almost ready for color. Went back and fourth on if I should introduce metallic paint to contrast the flat colored body or stick with anime-ish grays. I choose AK Warm White for the landing gears and various details. I'm also trying to figure out how to bend up the PE part's engine intake blades, been dreading it.


Grabbed a few more AK 'weathering pencils' to try out on the underside of the bird. They are an oil pastel-like pigment and respond very well to smudging with a cotton swap damped with a bit of water in controlled spaces.

[Bolt]

It's looking like it coming together nicely.

[Rock]

Thanks all, zero project until sometime towards the end of the Month. Managed to kill 3 airbrushes in an evening. Went to clean my Kustom Eclipse CS and the screw on tip was split, tried to swap the tip and fluid cap off my Revolution HP-TR and somehow buggered that up. Grabbed the old handy Iwata Neo (my primer ab) and somehow managed to break the tip off loosening it with pliers. Was not a good night. I'm down to an Old Badger Patriot and an Iwata Takumi Micron that I haven't used in 10+ years.
I've already ordered parts to repair the 2 but they are weeks out. Grabbed and H&S Infinity CR+ which should be here next weekend. I'm going to bite the bullet and order some custom Iwata soft-jaw pliers for future maintenance. I also need to grab a handful of their o-rings as they always go MIA.

Does anyone have any advice on bending up this? The PE bending pliers are useless, and it is pretty hard getting the blades all bent to the same angle with just the x-acto knife. My first idea was to put it on top of the original plastic part, and press in on the blades. the result was barely any movement due to the shallow details.  

 

Edited March 19, 2023 by Rock

[Thom]

Well looks like you got it! Very nice work.

[Rock]

Thanks Thom.

 

The blades are supposed to be (according to the sample image) bent at a straight 90 degree angle. I thought they looked more interesting/visible being bent at something closer to a 45 degree angle.

It was easier to to pre-bend them up, glue it to the original plastic part, and then once the CA began to set up, bend them to the desired final angle.

Holding them was the challenge. Once the blades were bent up the part lost all strength and if touched would disturb the angles. All kinda moot given how deep they sit inside the plane. Only IPMS flashlight judges would ever find them and that is the least of this valk's worries.

Flash on, Flash off!

Got the front and backs together. I don't remember what I painted them with, I think Alcladd Flat Aluminum + AK Gunship Gray I had in the gun already. Got them both installed in their home. For the intake I painted them Warm White and then just shot some black primer into the back letting the overspray fog it's way forward. Easy way to add a bit of shading, weathering and make the blades metallic gray stand out. I may go in later with some silver and dry brush the edges when I get to that point.

Some more AK Warm White was used over black to finally get the landing gear bays painted. A little bit of shading was all that was needed to get the details to really show. The PE Parts on the forward bay really look at home, I was worried the edges would be too visible (they are overlay's.) From here all I think I'll do is a grime wash and then hand paint just a few accents/details to make them less boring. Touch-up on my forward landing gear were also done (missed some mold marks!) Now that I think of it I thing the rear landing gears still need to be built and painted, whoops!

Lastly got, masked some panel lines and got to work! Really makes the color on the body pop! I was pleasantly surprised that I had no paint bleed thru, lifting or peeling given they sat weeks masked up and ready to attack.

Dare I say, I think she's about ready for a panel line wash!

Edited March 25, 2023 by Rock
typo's forever and always

[Thom]

Yeah, @Rock Id' say the angle you have them set at looks way better than 90. At that angle they'd be doing nothing but paddling the air. And the shading on those legs panels are excellent!

[Bolt]

Very nice work you did there !

[Rock]

Coming up on a tail end of a nasty week long cold (flu,) I'm finally getting my fine motor skills and routines back.

On to getting the arms together and the details painted. I don't remember what I used exactly (possibly alcladd duraluminum) but after a black primer coat I was able to directly spray the center to get a nice shaded effect.

It was on about by the time I painted the sixth landing bay door, like the wings, I remembered the bottom of this bird is white and not the topside color. Oops

Finally getting sub-assemblies together. First time seeing it up on it's own wheels too. I really like the way hase made the landing gears not require cement like most aircraft. Should make for a much more pleasant detailing experience.


Got the wash mixed up as we speak so really moving now!

[Bolt]

Glad you're feeling better. Thar VF is looking awesome!

[Urashiman]

On 4/1/2023 at 7:04 PM, Rock said:

Coming up on a tail end of a nasty week long cold (flu,) I'm finally getting my fine motor skills and routines back.

On to getting the arms together and the details painted. I don't remember what I used exactly (possibly alcladd duraluminum) but after a black primer coat I was able to directly spray the center to get a nice shaded effect.

It was on about by the time I painted the sixth landing bay door, like the wings, I remembered the bottom of this bird is white and not the topside color. Oops

Finally getting sub-assemblies together. First time seeing it up on it's own wheels too. I really like the way hase made the landing gears not require cement like most aircraft. Should make for a much more pleasant detailing experience.


Got the wash mixed up as we speak so really moving now!

Awesome man!

[Rock]

Round 1 of chicken pox!!!

 

[derex3592]

@Rock - this has to be one of the top 2 or 3 BEST paint schemes I've ever seen for the 19! Can't wait to see the finished product! 

[Rock]

One last screw you from Hasegawa. The kit isn't even a few years old and the decals are breaking up while soaking in their warm water. Sadly hase still makes the pilot names and 91 markings around the canopy as part of the antiglare black around the canopy. Thus they have to go on and my colors blended onto them. Simce I'm here mightbas well do the larger markings so they can be weathered too.

[Urashiman]

On 4/2/2023 at 11:14 PM, Rock said:

Round 1 of chicken pox!!!

 

I was wondering - how do you wash off the "chicken pox"?

[derex3592]

Enamel Thinner basically. I'm NOT a fan of the Tamiya Panel Liner liquid however.  I just don't trust it!  After it literally ATE my Bandai AT-AT leg joints and turned them to mush ruining my build the first time around, I have steered away from it in favor of good ole Flory's Clay based washes. 

[Big s]

1 hour ago, derex3592 said:

Enamel Thinner basically. I'm NOT a fan of the Tamiya Panel Liner liquid however.  I just don't trust it!  After it literally ATE my Bandai AT-AT leg joints and turned them to mush ruining my build the first time around, I have steered away from it in favor of good ole Flory's Clay based washes. 

I remember that one, that story has made me paranoid about the tamiya panel liner ever since. I usually test it out before use on extra spruce pieces and find it to be particularly harsh on certain plastics.

Ive never been able to find the flory’s washes, but I usually either use an oil wash or water color pencils. 

[electric indigo]

1 hour ago, Big s said:

Ive never been able to find the flory’s washes

Try looking for Gouache paint in art supply stores, it's the same thing.

[Urashiman]

14 hours ago, Big s said:

I remember that one, that story has made me paranoid about the tamiya panel liner ever since. I usually test it out before use on extra spruce pieces and find it to be particularly harsh on certain plastics.

Ive never been able to find the flory’s washes, but I usually either use an oil wash or water color pencils. 

usually I use oil colors as well, and then rub it off with a cloth, dipped into turpentine. I have the tamiya panel line color now and look for ways to remove excess color.

[Big s]

41 minutes ago, Urashiman said:

usually I use oil colors as well, and then rub it off with a cloth, dipped into turpentine. I have the tamiya panel line color now and look for ways to remove excess color.

For oils I usually use mineral spirits or 70% alcohol. Anything higher than 70% seems too harsh on the paints and top coats. Some people love zippo fluid, but I’m usually not around the smoke shops 

[Urashiman]

1 hour ago, Big s said:

For oils I usually use mineral spirits or 70% alcohol. Anything higher than 70% seems too harsh on the paints and top coats. Some people love zippo fluid, but I’m usually not around the smoke shops 

I just tried it with Mr.Color thinner. Seems to work without rubbing off the enamel color, so that would be my way to go from now on

[derex3592]

I learned recently even a slight amount of Mr. Color Levelling Thinner removes decal film if you haven't sealed your model! Ooops....LOL. 

[Big s]

8 hours ago, Urashiman said:

I just tried it with Mr.Color thinner. Seems to work without rubbing off the enamel color, so that would be my way to go from now on

I’d be really careful with that one. A quick dab probably wouldn’t do much, but I’d be way to afraid of it doing damage 

[foundshaian]

On 4/1/2023 at 12:04 PM, Rock said:

Coming up on a tail end of a nasty week long cold (flu,) I'm finally getting my fine motor skills and routines back.

On to getting the arms together and the details painted. I don't remember what I used exactly (possibly alcladd duraluminum) but after a black primer coat I was able to directly spray the center to get a nice shaded effect.

It was on about by the time I painted the sixth landing bay door, like the wings, I remembered the bottom of this bird is white and not the topside color. Oops

Finally getting sub-assemblies together. First time seeing it up on it's own wheels too. I really like the way hase made the landing gears not require cement like most aircraft. Should make for a much more pleasant detailing experience.


Got the wash mixed up as we speak so really moving now!

I really know nothing about macross or the specific kit your building but I think that the inverted colors look really good

[Urashiman]

17 hours ago, Big s said:

I’d be really careful with that one. A quick dab probably wouldn’t do much, but I’d be way to afraid of it doing damage 

I used humbrol satin coat. Didn’t rub off, and decals weren’t harmed.

[Big s]

3 minutes ago, Urashiman said:

I used humbrol satin coat. Didn’t rub off, and decals weren’t harmed.

I’m really glad it worked for you. I’m still a bit worried about trying it myself 

[Bolt]

On 4/4/2023 at 5:52 PM, Rock said:

One last screw you from Hasegawa. The kit isn't even a few years old and the decals are breaking up while soaking in their warm water. Sadly hase still makes the pilot names and 91 markings around the canopy as part of the antiglare black around the canopy. Thus they have to go on and my colors blended onto them. Simce I'm here mightbas well do the larger markings so they can be weathered too.

Everything is looking awesome !

[Urashiman]

On 4/7/2023 at 5:22 PM, Big s said:

I’m really glad it worked for you. I’m still a bit worried about trying it myself 

I let I cure for 48 hours. I noticed, when doing it to short after applying the color or the coat, the color rubs off.

[Rock]

Can anyone clarify if the green accents on the shoulders/legs were supposed to match the clear green lens details on the accents to the sides of the cockpit? Hase just includes decals for them which contrast the clear parts. Trying to figure out if it needs to be corrected.

 

[Bolt]

13 hours ago, Rock said:

Can anyone clarify if the green accents on the shoulders/legs were supposed to match the clear green lens details on the accents to the sides of the cockpit? Hase just includes decals for them which contrast the clear parts. Trying to figure out if it needs to be corrected.

 

I see many examples where they do match.

[mechaninac]

I think they should match in tone, hue and saturation; of course, they should not in refractivity and reflectivity... so, same but different?...

[Rock]

Time for a filter. Round 1. After the decals I sprayed some Alclad II Aqua clear (acrylic based topcoat) clear over the decals to seal them and prevent the next steps from finding the edges of their carrier film. I also go over the 'white' to help prevent any extreme staining should I wish to reverse the following effects.

Once the clear has fully dried, I use cheap Hobby Lobby artist oils and a toothpick to dab the surface with dots of assorted colors. Most the time I only do this step with white, and a variation of the body color to keep the effect suttle. I really wanted to push the variation as I feel this valk is a bit boring as is. A full color pallet was used leaning to the blues amd greens to shoft the finish towards that cerulean blue it is supposed to be.

After waiting 30min to an hour I grab a large round paint brush and oderless mineral spirits. I SOAK the brush and begin to stipple or poke all over the surfaces spearing the dots into eachother and the body color. As I'm doing this I wipe the bush on a clean paper towel when to color transfer becomes to great. The name of the game is to keep soaking the brush and create a wet surface on the kit while you work. Oils are very forgiving and take a while to dry. Effectivly you can keep stacking/repeating to process as needed. If the area becomes too messy a quick wipe and clean before repeating the process will tone the effect down.

It is very important to do this with time. I often find the effect to strong when the surface is still shiney and wet, but once fully dry the effect differs vastly in appearance. Right now it is a bit wet and the yellows stand out a bit much for me, making it look sandy. Some further blending amd removal may still be needed.

[Bolt]

Nice job. Looks awesome. I see the yellows. Makes it look wonderfully dirty.

[Big s]

I have an oil color set and I may try that dot filter technique sometime. I like your results 

[derex3592]

That just keeps looking better and better! 

[Rock]

Not much work done with Sping housekeeping/maintenence taking priority. Time was not on my side and I wasn't able to get back to the kit.  Bit of a fubar in the process.

So with oils you have a large window for tweaking and reworking them. Sadly, this window closes after about a full week. While yes, mineral spirits can be used to play with fully dried oils the ammont of thinner it needed, and how long I have to let it sit wet on the topcoat is too great for the thin acrylic clear coat barrier to withstand. Touchups were needed. I used the chance of touching up the basecoat to free-hand airbrush some of the original color over areas that were a bitntoo strongly weathered. I still need to repeat the effect on the black, and grays. 

 

Masked up and got some of the details painted in too.