Palantirion Posted September 3, 2022 Posted September 3, 2022 Hello again, it's been a while since I last posted. Been getting more into toy repair and model building. Just finished this little guy and while it's not Macross, I've always conflated Dougram and Macross because of the Robotech and Battletech appropriation that I grew up with. So I hope that's understandable. The kit is by Max Factory, PLAMAX MF-57, depicting Dougram after its (spoiler alert) heroic scuttling the end of the series. Most often this scene is portrayed years later with Dougram completely oxidized and sand colored. I wanted to put Dougram in a more immediate context, shortly after the fires would have died. As you can tell from the kit (and the series), Dougram was not actually "blown up" but self-destructed more internally and remained visually intact. To that end my primary focus would be on the effects of flames on his paint and the terrain. Test fitting, with an old die cast 1/144 Dougram to compare scale. The kit was beautifully molded, but for some reason the backpack cannon had a flat tip! So I drilled that out. I also (not pictured) cleaned up and scribed lines to properly separate the right forearm from the right leg where they cross. Then my first attempt at zenithal priming. It was tricking to get the model assembled without fully gluing it, as would need access to inner details later. Not the best zenithal, but it was useful as a road map for shading later. Then thin washes to lay out the colors. Note most of Dougram's signature purple paint was painted in a dark silver. Washes will come later to add some purple over these areas as I wanted to show how the heat from the fire had burned most of it away. The base painting more-or-less complete, really more of a block-in. I would go one to refine the highlights and shadows to exaggerate contrast because of the small size of the model. I was not happy with the slightly sculpted but smooth base. Sure, at this tiny scale we shouldn't see grains of sand because in scale they would by big rocks. And where Dougram was scuttled it was open desert, no rocks or distinctive terrain. But the base needed some sense of texture. So I experimented a little and ended up going with a mix of PVA and baking soda (with a little water) and that gave me a nice faint read of texture that I then enhanced with a couple different tan washes. The blast and fire soot was drybrushed using Muso Black. I haven't heard of people using Muso as an alternative to typical flat blacks, but I find its extra darkness reads really well as soot. You can also thin it to do washes. I used water soluble oils to add oil staining and hydraulic fluid runoff. Then more refining of the paint tones, chipping, subtle heat-staining around the right side of the torso (exit of the self-destruct fire) with red and yellow inks followed by Muso drybrushing. Then weathering with Tamiya powders and more refining and touchup. A pic with Dougram finished, posing with the paints used: Finished pics: Quote
Big s Posted September 5, 2022 Posted September 5, 2022 Looks really nice. I think a lot of people stay away from the muso black since it discolors with top coat and rubs off easy, but on a static model that you don’t touch it works well for that extra darkness Quote
Palantirion Posted September 7, 2022 Author Posted September 7, 2022 On 9/5/2022 at 1:17 AM, Big s said: Looks really nice. I think a lot of people stay away from the muso black since it discolors with top coat and rubs off easy, but on a static model that you don’t touch it works well for that extra darkness -Interesting, and good to know. I didn't notice it being fragile at all, and I touched the cured black base edge a lot. Your suggestion makes me think I should do a durability swatch with and without clearcoat and also layered with clearcoat between. Quote
Big s Posted September 7, 2022 Posted September 7, 2022 The barbatos Rex YouTube channel did a review on it. It seems to be super black without top coat, but rubbed off easy without top coat. With the top coat it was more of a dark grey color, but a bit more durable. I’d be curious to see if you have different results 1 hour ago, Palantirion said: -Interesting, and good to know. I didn't notice it being fragile at all, and I touched the cured black base edge a lot. Your suggestion makes me think I should do a durability swatch with and without clearcoat and also layered with clearcoat between. Quote
Palantirion Posted September 7, 2022 Author Posted September 7, 2022 15 hours ago, Big s said: The barbatos Rex YouTube channel did a review on it. It seems to be super black without top coat, but rubbed off easy without top coat. With the top coat it was more of a dark grey color, but a bit more durable. I’d be curious to see if you have different results -Rex runs a great channel, I've watched him a lot but must have missed that vid. It wouldn't surprise me if his fingernail test scratched it off if he sprayed it without a primer (which is his usual spoon test process). I'll see how things go with a test on my end, I'm curious as well. Quote
Big s Posted September 8, 2022 Posted September 8, 2022 2 hours ago, Palantirion said: -Rex runs a great channel, I've watched him a lot but must have missed that vid. It wouldn't surprise me if his fingernail test scratched it off if he sprayed it without a primer (which is his usual spoon test process). I'll see how things go with a test on my end, I'm curious as well. Show us all the results. I’m probably not the only one that’s curious Quote
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