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Product Review - KiKi Loose Joint Fixer


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Posted
6 minutes ago, Negotiator said:

ordered one.  got a very loose yammy vf-0s.

do you have to take things apart or can you let it drip in between the joints and move it around to spread it?  how long does it take to dry?

Just drip it in and move the ball joint about to spread it around. For the first hour, move it about every now and then so the joint doesn't seize up. Let it dry for 24 hours.

Posted
22 hours ago, MacrossJunkie said:

They changed it again? I can't even remember what they called it before that. Each name change becomes less and less memorable.

I still have a bottle of it for it was still labeled as Future, but it's unlikely it will ever be emptied as I've switched to using the Vallejo Mecha line of varnishes for my gloss coating needs as it's tougher and more scratch resistant made specifically for applications that the name implies. Though I guess I would use Future for models with non-moving parts since it's cheaper to use by far.

I have been using Vallejo's Mecha gloss and matte varnishes also. The matte varnish is really good and haven't had any problems but I can't seem to get the gloss varnish to go on smooth. I have used various thinners and adjusted the pressure for the airbrush but can't get it have a smooth surface. Usually it dries with a slight "texture" to the clear coat. Not sure if is an acrylic clear coat problem or I am missing something. Appreciate any advice you have! 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, General Rasp said:

I have been using Vallejo's Mecha gloss and matte varnishes also. The matte varnish is really good and haven't had any problems but I can't seem to get the gloss varnish to go on smooth. I have used various thinners and adjusted the pressure for the airbrush but can't get it have a smooth surface. Usually it dries with a slight "texture" to the clear coat. Not sure if is an acrylic clear coat problem or I am missing something. Appreciate any advice you have! 

Have you tried using the Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver (VAFI from here on)? Also what psi are you spraying it at? If it's not laying on smooth, it's because it's drying too quickly and isn't getting enough time to level. Instead of thinner, try the VAFI to slow the rate of drying so that it has more time to level. I also had the same issue until I started using VAFI mixed with the varnish.

Edited by MacrossJunkie
Posted
31 minutes ago, MacrossJunkie said:

Have you tried using the Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver (VAFI from here on)? Also what psi are you spraying it at? If it's not laying on smooth, it's because it's drying too quickly and isn't getting enough time to level. Instead of thinner, try the VAFI to slow the rate of drying so that it has more time to level. I also had the same issue until I started using VAFI mixed with the varnish.

Thanks for the help. Usually I spray around 15 - 17 psi depending on the paint. I do have the VAFI but didn't seem to help much so maybe the pressure was too high. What ratio (roughly) do you use clear coat to VAFI? Mostly I use a few drops until the paint looks thin enough. 

Posted
Just now, General Rasp said:

Thanks for the help. Usually I spray around 15 - 17 psi depending on the paint. I do have the VAFI but didn't seem to help much so maybe the pressure was too high. What ratio (roughly) do you use clear coat to VAFI? Mostly I use a few drops until the paint looks thin enough. 

Level of air humidity or lack of it can also affect drying times. VAFI instructions say 2 drops for every 10 drops of paint or a 1:5 ratio, but I don't bother doing that as more always comes out than I intended anyway... I would say on average or 1:2  or 1:3 ratio. I don't put much in the airbrush cup at any given time so getting that ratio accidentally is easy to do.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I finally had the opportunity to use the bottle of KiKi that I ordered. Worked great on my Yamato SV-51 Ivanov. The wings were a floppy mess in Gerwalk mode and this stuff tightened them up so well that I can now attach all of the armaments and the boosters and display them with the outer portion of each wing horizontal, which looks way nicer. The weight of the attachments and the loose hinges made that impossible to do before.

Now to fix my 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru. When you put him in GBP armor, he has a hard time staying upright unless you balance everything perfectly.

Posted

After hearing about the success with the SV-51, I am sold. Bought two bottles.

The only figure I have that is loose is a 1/48 VF-1A DYRL Hikaru with Super/Strike Packs that I have transformed like the world is going to end. It have probably gone through several hundred transformations. If this works Then I might try it on future projects.

Thanks for the review and heads up!

Much appreciated.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
15 hours ago, starkiller239 said:

Soo, its been almost 18 months since the last post.  How has the joint stiffiner held up?

Asking as I just bought a yamoto tomahawk and the all the joints are loose.  Makes posing impossible.

It's held up well for me. The wings on my SV-51 Ivanov haven't moved at all over the past two years--and they're fully-loaded with armaments.

Posted
1 hour ago, starkiller239 said:

Placed an order from amazon, middle of march delivery!  Wheres this coming from?!

Thailand based on seller profile page.

Posted

I bought some Kiki a year ago and finally used it in the last few months with various outcomes.

yf-29 osuma - both hips were loose. I actually took them apart to get to the ball joint. Kind of a disaster. There’s a tiny plastic piece that fell out around the ball joint. Took forever to figure out  how it was suppose to fit back in. Anyway the right hip stiffened up great. The left hip for some reason wouldn’t no matter how much Kiki I put in. I honestly redid the left hip 3 times until it finally kind of held its pose. Gave up as I felt that was the best it was going to get. Might try again when I’m feeling stupid enough to.

The Arcadia YF19 was a much more pleasant experience. Dropped them in the ankle joint and worked it into the ball joint. Amazing results. Those ankles while not perfect are waaay better than before.

my only minor gripe is that the Kiki can be messy at times especially if you appt too much the space allows. That being said it’s a solid recommend for me.

Posted

Quick question. If you put too much or excess in applying it, what do you guys use for wiping? And does it leave mark or stain on the plastic?

 

Posted
1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Quick question. If you put too much or excess in applying it, what do you guys use for wiping? And does it leave mark or stain on the plastic?

 

I have used a cotton bud or paper towel. I haven't noticed any staining or marks on plastic pieces. It cleans up easy when it is in liquid form.

Posted
1 hour ago, General Rasp said:

I have used a cotton bud or paper towel. I haven't noticed any staining or marks on plastic pieces. It cleans up easy when it is in liquid form.

Thanks @General Rasp

  • 1 month later...
Posted
16 minutes ago, badboy00z said:

I bought a bottle of it and most of it has solidify in the bottle. I can still squeeze and liquid comes out though. Is there a way to liquify it again?

I don't have one yet. But seeing that it's water-based, I don't know if it's the same as paint spray cans that you can dip in hot/warm water when it gets cold before using.

Let's wait some inputs from the experts. ;)

 

  • 5 months later...
Posted
1 hour ago, eXis10z said:

Does this work on plastic joints? I'm asking as I was under the impression it works only for metal but read elsewhere it works for shf, mafex, etc. 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
On 8/11/2022 at 2:34 AM, eXis10z said:

Does this work on plastic joints? I'm asking as I was under the impression it works only for metal but read elsewhere it works for shf, mafex, etc. 

I’ve used it in both metal and plastic.  In my opinion it works faster on plastic , metal joints take more coats. It’s a liquid that just coats the joint and dries leaving a residue. Depending on the joint it could require multiple applications.  It’s also fairly messy so be prepared to wipe down excess as you go along 

Posted
On 8/13/2022 at 2:06 AM, 68whiskey said:

I’ve used it in both metal and plastic.  In my opinion it works faster on plastic , metal joints take more coats. It’s a liquid that just coats the joint and dries leaving a residue. Depending on the joint it could require multiple applications.  It’s also fairly messy so be prepared to wipe down excess as you go along 

Thank you for the tip! I'll be careful with it.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So I decided to look into KiKi today to see what it is currently going for. On ebay I found the following:

Screenshot_20220918-110347_Firefox.jpg.6cd9386eb0b1f31dcb03a3f2299c88c5.jpg

KiKi for under $2 with free shipping out of China? The bottle was clearly different. Is this a KO product? :unknw: Because it totally screams KO...

Posted

I've seen those too on eBay, but they're not branded on the bottle like the real deal is.

Better try something that cheap on a figure you no longer care about.

Might be a formula that eats the bejesus outta your figures.

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