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Posted
6 hours ago, Shawn said:

Looks like there is a bidder, so it will be sold. B2 size as well...that would be a very nice addition to any collection.

Can I crowd-fund $2k for a painting real quick?  :)

looking through my poster collection, they took elements from it to create another variant too

are you going to bid on it?^_^

Posted
15 hours ago, sh9000 said:

Looks like an illustration done on illustration board and not a print.  I've kept some of mine from the early 90s in a portfolio and they age over time the same way.  I recognized the masking tape around the board for the standard white border.  There is a coating or fixative over the artwork.

Awesome..

 

So...fellows...What do you think ?

 

Is it possibly an original illustration ?

 

Thanks for this discovery and your help...

 

 

Posted
8 hours ago, akim said:

Awesome..

 

So...fellows...What do you think ?

 

Is it possibly an original illustration ?

 

Thanks for this discovery and your help...

 

 

Just like with high-end watches, you buy the seller, not the item. Were this an original, I would think that anyone with above room-temperature I.Q. would have made a greater effort to demonstrate the authenticity of the piece, and in so doing fetch maybe 5X the asking price. Without better info, I wouldn't chance it... But that's me.

Posted
2 hours ago, captain america said:

Just like with high-end watches, you buy the seller, not the item. Were this an original, I would think that anyone with above room-temperature I.Q. would have made a greater effort to demonstrate the authenticity of the piece, and in so doing fetch maybe 5X the asking price. Without better info, I wouldn't chance it... But that's me.

Do Mospeada items like what this may be go for that kind of money. I could see a bigger property going for quite a bit, but I gotta say that I am a bit ignorant over the value of Mospeada items like this painting. I could see something like Macross or Gundam going for quite a bit more and maybe something like Battle Star Galactica or Star Wars going for and extreme amount more, but I’ve never really priced these items.

Posted
6 hours ago, captain america said:

Just like with high-end watches, you buy the seller, not the item. Were this an original, I would think that anyone with above room-temperature I.Q. would have made a greater effort to demonstrate the authenticity of the piece, and in so doing fetch maybe 5X the asking price. Without better info, I wouldn't chance it... But that's me.

Shutting down the competition to score this at a bargain price for yourself?  Loki would be proud.  /s  🙂  I took a look at the item but I'm not sophisticated enough to weigh in.  

Posted

The seller added a few more closer up pics. In a world of gigabit ethernet and terabyte personal drives we still live in a world with jpeg compression. Ugh.

Also-someone above mentioned it might not have been painted by Suzuki-I would strongly disagree as that is his regular signature logo on the bottom to the left of the Artmic label.

image.png.3cbdcd85c8914350cf26d551ba075cb2.png

 

i-img900x1200-17407148313223s7smis43792.jpg

i-img900x1200-17407148398729wazngl20261.jpg

i-img1200x900-17407148490589giawva16323.jpg

Posted
5 hours ago, akim said:

Thanks for these new pics...

 

Original ?

Printed illustration ?

 

Your opinion ?

 

 

Thanks by advance

The problem is the seller keeps putting up pictures of the illustration taken from mostly head-on. He would need to post pics of the illustration at an angle with the light reflecting off the surface, so that we can see if there are any masking lines, brush strokes and other hints discernible in an original illustration. That would be the ultimate tell.

Posted

I personally believe its the original. 

I dug out my original VF-1J Takani Milia Gerwalk board, and I don't see brush marks.
And I think that is the dilemma-I don't think these were created in the normal sense of brush and paint-they look very flat, almost like it was done with markers (I know nothing about this btw).

The paint is very thin and flat, there is not a thick build up of layers of paint from what my mind thinks of with an old painting with hills and valleys to the naked eye.20250228_102211.png

20250228_102237.png

20250228_102334.png

Posted
7 minutes ago, Shawn said:

I personally believe its the original. 

I dug out my original VF-1J Takani Milia Gerwalk board, and I don't see brush marks.
And I think that is the dilemma-I don't think these were created in the normal sense of brush and paint-they look very flat, almost like markers? (I know nothing about this btw). If paint it is very thin and flat, its not a build up of layers of paint from what my mind thinks of with an old painting.
 

20250228_102211.png

20250228_102237.png

20250228_102334.png

That looks like an awesome piece!  Can we see the whole thing?!

Posted
1 hour ago, Shawn said:

I personally believe its the original. 

I dug out my original VF-1J Takani Milia Gerwalk board, and I don't see brush marks.
And I think that is the dilemma-I don't think these were created in the normal sense of brush and paint-they look very flat, almost like it was done with markers (I know nothing about this btw).

The paint is very thin and flat, there is not a thick build up of layers of paint from what my mind thinks of with an old painting with hills and valleys to the naked eye.20250228_102211.png

20250228_102237.png

20250228_102334.png

I have a feeling that it’s watercolor. The watercolor paints can be much more difficult to spot raised brush strokes. Oils can tend to have more of a texture to them.

Posted
1 hour ago, Shawn said:

I personally believe its the original. 

I dug out my original VF-1J Takani Milia Gerwalk board, and I don't see brush marks.
And I think that is the dilemma-I don't think these were created in the normal sense of brush and paint-they look very flat, almost like it was done with markers (I know nothing about this btw).

The paint is very thin and flat, there is not a thick build up of layers of paint from what my mind thinks of with an old painting with hills and valleys to the naked eye.20250228_102211.png

20250228_102237.png

20250228_102334.png

Same here.  Your painting looks like it's done in watercolor.  Watercolor or thin layers of acrylic paint can be applied to illustration board and have no brush marks.  I used to use acrylic paint and prismacolor pencils on illustration board.

Posted (edited)

I would guess it's  a multi media piece too. Likely water colour with alcohol based 'art' markers. Those have been standard illustration tools since at least the early 70's

(Ok back then they weren't  alcohol based they were Xylene) but same idea.

Edited by Chas
Posted
4 hours ago, Chas said:

I would guess it's  a multi media piece too. Likely water colour with alcohol based 'art' markers. Those have been standard illustration tools since at least the early 70's

(Ok back then they weren't  alcohol based they were Xylene) but same idea.

That’s my guess as well.  Was figuring it’s a mixed media piece.

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the close up picts!  This is what I was able to glean from it:

Red:  raised ink ("hills and valleys").  Looks similar to the results I get when I used oil-based manga ink.  Appears to be added last.

Purple:  dust artifacts.  Some (black bits?) were added after the fact (paint transfers?), but there is some mixed in with the white/light grey (note the specular highlights in the lower right part of the triangle).  Also appears to be some paper distortion when thin paints (like watercolour) soak into it (it's especially visible in the black area to the right of the yellow circle).

Green: what appears to be a bubble artifact most likely in the darker grey layer under the top whitish colour.

Yellow: parallel scratch marks.  Indicating that the material used in the black layer didn't bond with the paint under it.  I've heard that Japanese artists use "sumi" (the black ink used in calligraphy) to fill in large black areas.  If the underlying layer is an acrylic or otherwise water repellent layer, it makes sense that the sumi wouldn't bond and be easily scratched off.

 

ArtExamination.jpg.de5c0737cc18fa66920b20b637de31aa.jpg

Edited by sketchley
Posted

Wow-it sold, 48 bids!
Current yen conversion puts it around $8000 USD, very nice!! :)

Hopefully this auction's results will bring out more artwork!
Thanks everyone for playing this week's Mospeada themed of Antiques Roadshow.
Let some fresh 1/28 Legioss news be next!

image.png.0873e55cc6a73f6fb48bc9733c4c4f2c.png

Posted

Well...

Congrats to the winner 👍

 

Maybe can we hope some better pics ??

 

Yep...if some others treasures could reappear^^

Posted

Hey guys.  I am planning on buying a used Sentinel 1/12 scale Riobot of Stick.  The seller says it is a reissue.  How can I be sure that it is a reissue.  He has pictures of the box front and back.  Is there some label or different art to determine that it is a reissue?  I am also able to look at the toy before I purchase it.  Is the something on the figure or motorcycle to verify that it is a reissue?  

 

I just want to make sure that it is a reissue because from what I have read here, is that there have been improvements to the toy that may allow it to be more sturdy.  Is that correct to think?

Thanks.

Posted

Ask for pics of the grey joints that swivel the bike armor under the armpits.  Those have been the trouble spots, regardless of it being an original or reissue.

IMG_7018.jpeg.f624738dca8713c621b67d42be5e79b9.jpeg

A good chunk of folks have had that particular joint get cracked on their copies.

Might want to also look at the grey torso, as paint chipping can occur from putting the armor on and off the figure.

Posted
58 minutes ago, cfernandez said:

Hey guys.  I am planning on buying a used Sentinel 1/12 scale Riobot of Stick.  The seller says it is a reissue.  How can I be sure that it is a reissue.  He has pictures of the box front and back.  Is there some label or different art to determine that it is a reissue?  I am also able to look at the toy before I purchase it.  Is the something on the figure or motorcycle to verify that it is a reissue?  

 

I just want to make sure that it is a reissue because from what I have read here, is that there have been improvements to the toy that may allow it to be more sturdy.  Is that correct to think?

Thanks.

The bar code on the back should be different. The original looks like this

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1289469830

The reissue looks like this

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1288109029

There is no change from the original to the most recent reissue. All 4 of the originals of mine have suffered cracks on their own just sitting on a shelf with very little handling, and not all in the swivel joint for the gauntlets which is the most likely to be cracked.

Probably against my better judgment, I picked up the most recent reissue of Yellow just to try have one ride armor without cracks and he's my favorite character of the four, and out of the box there are stress marks on both those problematic swivel joints for the gauntlets already. I guess I can say they're not cracked, at least not yet, but still I'm obviously extremely disappointed to say the least. There are no changes from the original other than some tweaks to some tolerances like loosening the pistons. It's a shame because I really, really like the look of them and even enjoy the transformation but the durability and build quality have left a bad taste in my mouth.

 

Posted

Thanks for the information both of you.  I did not know that the reissues did not have much done to them.  When I get back home today I will look at the sellers UPC code and see which one it is.  Is there any other information that may be helpful to look for (cracks and such?).

 

Thanks guys!

Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, cfernandez said:

Thanks for the information both of you.  I did not know that the reissues did not have much done to them.  When I get back home today I will look at the sellers UPC code and see which one it is.  Is there any other information that may be helpful to look for (cracks and such?).

 

Thanks guys!

Here's my recent Yellow reissue and the stress marks on the problematic swivel joint for the gauntlets that are most likely to suffer cracks. If you go to page 371, you'll see another post of mine of a crack in a different ball swivel joint for the rear of the bike or hip armor. That was on my Houquet and it had been sitting in bike mode doing nothing for a long time.

Edited to also add that when I found the stress marks out of the box, I tried the hair dryer trick to see if I could get rid of the stress marks. Unfortunately, no effect.

Yellow.jpeg.28965eb13e3fb0472204119ab72282db.jpeg

Edited by WhatBoutMyStar

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