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5 minutes ago, Pulltoeject said:

One more thing, can someone please tell me the size of the box the riobot stick comes in? 

Actual toy box that is. 

HLJ and HobbySearch states it's 30 x 20 x 10 cm. 550/566grams.

 

You really need to bump your 5minutes ago post? ;)

 

Edited by no3Ljm
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7 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

The visor is just so small, right? Can we just dip the visor on the paint instead? This is for those who doesn't have an airbrush. Can we do that?

 

Visor Dipping is hit and miss. If you're paint isn't thin enough you'll get huge drops of paint forming at certain spots. 

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5 minutes ago, Pulltoeject said:

Aahhh a wiseguy aahhh ?? 

;)

3 minutes ago, Pulltoeject said:

Thanks for the info buddy !!

There is a method of clearcoating with future clearparts but, with future. I wouldn't dare to try that with acrylic paint, if you screw up, you might have a hard time fixing it. 

No, I'm not. :p I just find it funny that you really need to bump. Besides, most of us go one page back just in case we miss something. Hahaha! :lol: 

Anyways, you're welcome. ;) 

1 minute ago, Duymon said:

Visor Dipping is hit and miss. If you're paint isn't thin enough you'll get huge drops of paint forming at certain spots. 

Gotcha! :good: I think it's better to ask than be sorry for doing it first. Hehehe. :lol: 

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23 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

The visor is just so small, right? Can we just dip the visor on the paint instead? This is for those who doesn't have an airbrush. Can we do that?

 

No.

Dipping will result in too thick of a layer on both the outside and inside, not to mention paint buildup around the rectangular white tabs at the top of the visor. Also, model paint isn't particularly hard and if you tend to handle it carelessly, you can damage the finish and ruin your very expensive collector toy.

Some may suggest Future with food coloring, but I have old diecast and models that employed the Future method and the finish cracks after a dozen years or so.

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32 minutes ago, captain america said:

No.

Dipping will result in too thick of a layer on both the outside and inside, not to mention paint buildup around the rectangular white tabs at the top of the visor. Also, model paint isn't particularly hard and if you tend to handle it carelessly, you can damage the finish and ruin your very expensive collector toy.

Some may suggest Future with food coloring, but I have old diecast and models that employed the Future method and the finish cracks after a dozen years or so.

Thanks Cap'n! Really appreciate it. ;)

 

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10 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

 

Hey David. I haven't transformed my Sentinel. Will share my opinion once I did. ;) 

11 hours ago, Tober said:

Mostly yes, although the original Beagle Stick was really loose. It was rectified for the Rey and Toynami releases. 

The Beagle isn't fragile for a masterpiece style, ages 15+ toy, so to that end it is very sturdy.

 

thanks Tober and Noel

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1 hour ago, recon said:

Some good news. Hope fexthobby makes it a reality

Screenshot_20180503-101959_Samsung Experience Home.jpg

3rd Party Legioss in the future? Yes Please! None of these official companies can do it right and the good official companies aren't getting the Mospeada license. 

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I think a good transforming modern legioss is totally feasible, but the companies (toynami & evolution toys/ CMS) with the worst track records in design and QC have been the ones to take on the legioss. We just need a first rate company to take a stab at it. 

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6 hours ago, jenius said:

While I'd love to see it happen... I also worry that if official companies can't come up with something that works, third parties have a real uphill battle!

Third Party companies can be very inventive and have the ability to try different things without going through red tape. FansToys was able to make a complete set of Masterpiece scale dinobots and Iron Factory is continually releasing new characters in legends scale. I think third parties would do better than the official companies. 

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To those who recommend FansHobby for Legioss; Genius. Their design style is such a good fit and that plastic they use even is exactly how I'd want it to feel.

Thank you alll as well for the airbrush advice. Didn't even think to break that out

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you know the frustrating thing about the legioss....its NOT a complicated design or transformation.  It just hasn't been given enough love by the right design teams IMO.  evolution toys effort while fairly well sculpted fell short because of lack of attention/sufficient engineering thought given to what i will call them....."functional and simple things that matter".

fexthobby aka fanshobby....can't say i have any of their stuff yet but i think in general its well received.  the upper tier 3P companies (even the non top tier ones!)  can totally "handle" a legioss.  i hope fanshobby/fexthobby pursues it.  honestly, if i were them after doing all the mospeada versions...i'd do a slight retool and make it "look sentient" for their TF fans.  

 

 

Edited by Mechapilot77
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So, here's my inept results from brush painting the visor.

Original:  DSC_0038-001.JPG.d95af56e0d5ea97bff94f4d38016ddf4.JPG

Inside Paint Removed:  DSC_0042.JPG.a673ecd6da1c91dd397e707d2a2fa6e5.JPG

Lame-o First Try:  DSC_0043.JPG.5af2a7b98c95b402884b5f98bb8bbe1a.JPG

DSC_0045.JPG.7f7bb9b52d160a142dff66f9b540caf9.JPGDSC_0046.JPG.30f5e179075347c0ee0ca4b87a6190b1.JPG

Post-Painting Analysis:

For those curious (or not wanting to search through the entire thread), I first removed the silver painting from the inside with regular-old rubbing alcohol.  Then I painted a layer of Tamiya Smoke paint and then a layer of Tamiya Clear Blue on the outside of the visor.

1)  Considering I was trying for that translucent look, I laid the paint down way, WAY too thick.  It's definitely reflective and has that candy-coated look.  But you really can't see the face at all through the visor anymore.  As you can see here, it's still translucent,

DSC_0048.JPG.39625784b906fb3d45876817978b8817.JPG

But there's no way you're seeing Stick through it.

2)  If you look close enough, you can see the smudges, tiny air bubbles, and other flaws in my painting.

3)  Next time, I'll definitely go easy on the smoke layer, so it can be a little more see-through. . . . Knowing me, I'll probably get it down by the time Houquet is released :lol: (knocking on wood that we get her).

4)  Unlike other paints I've worked with, I seemed to get better success "dabbing" or tapping the Tamiya clears onto the visor, rather than trying to brush it on.

I'll definitely try this again (assuming I can find Rey at a reasonable price).

This pic will be incomplete, until Rey-Rey is added to the mix:

DSC_0049.JPG.67057a6bf56fdfe731ee2f580a7d341a.JPG

 

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2 hours ago, Mechapilot77 said:

you know the frustrating thing about the legioss....its NOT a complicated design or transformation.  It just hasn't been given enough love by the right design teams IMO.  evolution toys effort while fairly well sculpted fell short because of lack of attention/sufficient engineering thought given to what i will call them....."functional and simple things that matter".

 

 

Totally agree.  I can totally understand companies having a hard time making a decent, sturdy, well-articulated, perfect transformation MOSPEADA ride armor toy.  That's just a difficult design to implement.  But the Legioss is not a difficult design compared to many other PT toys.  In my head, I'm visualizing the Gakken toy updated with some better proportions and paint details.  You'd think they could have pulled this off by now.

Edited by SuperSenpai
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9 minutes ago, Mog said:

So, here's my inept results from brush painting the visor.

Original:  DSC_0038-001.JPG.d95af56e0d5ea97bff94f4d38016ddf4.JPG

Inside Paint Removed:  DSC_0042.JPG.a673ecd6da1c91dd397e707d2a2fa6e5.JPG

Lame-o First Try:  DSC_0043.JPG.5af2a7b98c95b402884b5f98bb8bbe1a.JPG

DSC_0045.JPG.7f7bb9b52d160a142dff66f9b540caf9.JPGDSC_0046.JPG.30f5e179075347c0ee0ca4b87a6190b1.JPG

Post-Painting Analysis:

For those curious (or not wanting to search through the entire thread), I first removed the silver painting from the inside with regular-old rubbing alcohol.  Then I painted a layer of Tamiya Smoke paint and then a layer of Tamiya Clear Blue on the outside of the visor.

1)  Considering I was trying for that translucent look, I laid the paint down way, WAY too thick.  It's definitely reflective and has that candy-coated look.  But you really can't see the face at all through the visor anymore.  As you can see here, it's still translucent,

DSC_0048.JPG.39625784b906fb3d45876817978b8817.JPG

But there's no way you're seeing Stick through it.

2)  If you look close enough, you can see the smudges, tiny air bubbles, and other flaws in my painting.

3)  Next time, I'll definitely go easy on the smoke layer, so it can be a little more see-through. . . . Knowing me, I'll probably get it down by the time Houquet is released :lol: (knocking on wood that we get her).

4)  Unlike other paints I've worked with, I seemed to get better success "dabbing" or tapping the Tamiya clears onto the visor, rather than trying to brush it on.

I'll definitely try this again (assuming I can find Rey at a reasonable price).

This pic will be incomplete, until Rey-Rey is added to the mix:

DSC_0049.JPG.67057a6bf56fdfe731ee2f580a7d341a.JPG

 

Nice job.  Shame not viewable through the redone visor But Hey Still, Nice Job.  

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1 hour ago, Mog said:

So, here's my inept results from brush painting the visor.

Original:  

Inside Paint Removed:  

Lame-o First Try:  

 

Post-Painting Analysis:

For those curious (or not wanting to search through the entire thread), I first removed the silver painting from the inside with regular-old rubbing alcohol.  Then I painted a layer of Tamiya Smoke paint and then a layer of Tamiya Clear Blue on the outside of the visor.

1)  Considering I was trying for that translucent look, I laid the paint down way, WAY too thick.  It's definitely reflective and has that candy-coated look.  But you really can't see the face at all through the visor anymore.  As you can see here, it's still translucent,

 

But there's no way you're seeing Stick through it.

2)  If you look close enough, you can see the smudges, tiny air bubbles, and other flaws in my painting.

3)  Next time, I'll definitely go easy on the smoke layer, so it can be a little more see-through. . . . Knowing me, I'll probably get it down by the time Houquet is released :lol: (knocking on wood that we get her).

4)  Unlike other paints I've worked with, I seemed to get better success "dabbing" or tapping the Tamiya clears onto the visor, rather than trying to brush it on.

I'll definitely try this again (assuming I can find Rey at a reasonable price).

This pic will be incomplete, until Rey-Rey is added to the mix:

 

 

Couldnt you remove the paint and try again, if you aren't satisfied? After all that visor isnt a big piece...

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56 minutes ago, seti88 said:

Couldnt you remove the paint and try again, if you aren't satisfied? After all that visor isnt a big piece...

If he used Tamiya Acryls he can use the same rubbing alcohol to remove it and try again.

I think when my two arrive I'll do the visors at the same time. 

After cleaning I'll prolly opt for Tamiya Acryl Clear Blue thinned with X-20 thru an airbrush, followed by a few dips into a cup of Pledge / Future to protect the paint afterwards.

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Stig landed in Mar del Plata, Argentina, finally!!!!

It has a QC issue. Missing a piece in the left heel. Will contact HLJ about it.

Apart from that, the figure and the bike are awesome!!!!

IMG-20180503-WA0078.jpeg

Edited by Ignacio Ocamica
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2 hours ago, SuperSenpai said:

Totally agree.  I can totally understand companies having a hard time making a decent, sturdy, well-articulated, perfect transformation MOSPEADA ride armor toy.  That's just a difficult design to implement.  But the Legioss is not a difficult design compared to many other PT toys.  In my head, I'm visualizing the Gakken toy updated with some better proportions and paint details.  You'd think they could have pulled this off by now.

The problem is the few companies that have attempted a Legioss are all copying the OG Gakken transformation mechanics. It would be like Arcadia, Yamato, Kitz Concept, and even Bandai all making VF-1 series toys today but copying the OG 1/55 Chunky Monkey transformation design and mechanics (yes I'm looking at YOU Toynami "Masterpieces"). A different company needs to come up with something NEW from the ground up. 

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3 hours ago, seti88 said:

Couldnt you remove the paint and try again, if you aren't satisfied? After all that visor isnt a big piece...

I had to restart from scratch twice, so what I posted is my third attempt.  At this point, I'm cool with how it looks, even if I would like it a shade or two lighter.

Again, if Sentinel completes the line, I figure I'll have another three chances to get it just right.

Now, if I could just find Rey (Ray?  Rei?) for a reasonable price or still on preorder. . .

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1 hour ago, SuperDimensionalDave said:

The problem is the few companies that have attempted a Legioss are all copying the OG Gakken transformation mechanics. It would be like Arcadia, Yamato, Kitz Concept, and even Bandai all making VF-1 series toys today but copying the OG 1/55 Chunky Monkey transformation design and mechanics (yes I'm looking at YOU Toynami "Masterpieces"). A different company needs to come up with something NEW from the ground up. 

But I don't see anything fundamentally flawed with the Gakken transformation that would require completely redesigning it. You have fighter mode and soldier mode -- there aren't really too many different ways to get from point A to point B.  It's a pretty simple transformation.  The engine/legs have to extend and rotate down and forward.  The arm pods on top of fighter mode have to extend and rotate down.  The intakes have to rotate.  If anything, it just needs some minor tweaking for better articulation.

The VF-1 has an inherent design quirk around the leg transformation that required a compromise for a real-world toy, so companies had to come up with different solutions.  The Legioss doesn't really have the same shortcoming, so implementing the transformation in a real-world toy is pretty straightforward.  There's not a lot of room for variation.  

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8 minutes ago, SuperSenpai said:

But I don't see anything fundamentally flawed with the Gakken transformation that would require completely redesigning it. You have fighter mode and soldier mode -- there aren't really too many different ways to get from point A to point B.  It's a pretty simple transformation.  The engine/legs have to extend and rotate down and forward.  The arm pods on top of fighter mode have to extend and rotate down.  The intakes have to rotate.  If anything, it just needs some minor tweaking for better articulation.

The VF-1 has an inherent design quirk around the leg transformation that required a compromise for a real-world toy, so companies had to come up with different solutions.  The Legioss doesn't really have the same shortcoming, so implementing the transformation in a real-world toy is pretty straightforward.  There's not a lot of room for variation.  

True but the same can be said about the 1/55. It's an even simpler transformation and wasn't flawed nor in NEED of a redesign. It's even one of the most durable toys ever made. But I think Yamato/Arcadia did a great job with the 1/48 and V2 1/60. And perhaps the Legioss' original toys design wasn't flawed but it's literally been copied three times by three different companies and they have all been quite flawed. What is the definition of insanity again? Maybe not a complete redo but certainly stop straight up xeroxing and put at least some thought into it. Lol. 

Edited by SuperDimensionalDave
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30 minutes ago, SuperSenpai said:

But I don't see anything fundamentally flawed with the Gakken transformation that would require completely redesigning it. You have fighter mode and soldier mode -- there aren't really too many different ways to get from point A to point B.  It's a pretty simple transformation.  The engine/legs have to extend and rotate down and forward.  The arm pods on top of fighter mode have to extend and rotate down.  The intakes have to rotate.  If anything, it just needs some minor tweaking for better articulation.

The VF-1 has an inherent design quirk around the leg transformation that required a compromise for a real-world toy, so companies had to come up with different solutions.  The Legioss doesn't really have the same shortcoming, so implementing the transformation in a real-world toy is pretty straightforward.  There's not a lot of room for variation.  

Here's the thing: those joints were great for a child's toy, but they leave a lot to be desired in terms of poseability. Also, when you have to start adding opening missile bay doors and missile detail, you automatically have a bit less space for the internals. Still very doable if you use steel for the joints... Dunno man, I figured this sh*t out 16 years ago using a crude version of Corel Draw. It's not like I've been hiding under a rock in another dimension: we have Interwebs + Google Translate and email, so it's not like these firms can't contact me for input. As I've stated ad nauseum, they just don't care.

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And for the record, CMS got closer with the dark legioss pair, they weren't as loose and fiddly as the original 3.  The heels on the originals were so frustrating.  The legioss design is pretty easy and you don't have to have all the spring-loaded click joints that Gakken put into the joints (which became weak points).  That said, I don't hate the ET Legioss, its just not quite what it could have been.

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