Your Vitual Workbench - Share your 3D printing and rapid prototyping projects

[Urashiman]

Hey everyone,

As 3D printing is becoming more popular and affordable, I thought it'll be great to have a place to share the current progress on active projects without posting new threads.

I am currently working on a secret project which will take a while and I am not satisfied with the progress I made so far. I'll fix some parts in the next weeks and post it here. if you want to check out my old printable stuff, you can check it on shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/urashiman

 

Happy sharing!

Edited December 19, 2019 by Urashiman

[HardlyNever]

This is the second attempt (the first was way too small, in all regards).  I'm really trying to dial in the correct ball size to fit the DX joint.  This is 4.8mm, and I have a 5mm one currently printing (it also has an improved hand sculpt, especially on the inside fingers).  I haven't had a chance to clean up the all the excess plastic on this, since I'm at work, but I feel like I'm getting close.

I'll post pictures of a (hopefully) attached one when I get home today.  These are all PLA test runs (hence the weird colors), but the final version will be in resin, which I'll probably have to end up painting or shading a bit.  I'll also be refining the hand sculpt and size once I have a working ball joint.  It will be easier to tell what looks good on the figure once I can get it attached.

[valhary]

Great idea! I have some....

[Mazinger]

4 minutes ago, valhary said:

Great idea! I have some....

Um, yeah, but where are the links to the STL files?

[valhary]

I use the 3d print to obtain the molds the items itself are made of resin that is much more affordable

[HardlyNever]

Got a chance to "attach" one of the early builds to the valk.  The ball is still about 1mm too small all around, so I just used some tape to get an idea of how it actually looks on a valk.  I've also realized I need deeper lines between the fingers and on the joints to match the contrast of the tv hands on the Bandai valk. 

I'm also shrinking the size down just a hair.  I've done all those things on my latest file, but since I print this stuff at work, I won't be doing another test run until the new year.

[Mazinger]

So I put together my 3d printed Legioss. It took some work as the jointed sections needed some adjustments to fit together. I’ll chalk that up to my on experience with printing. The painting is trash, mostly because I got impatient to put it all together after my airbrush clogged a couple of times and decided to just manually brush the rest. I’ll consider this a prototype. Lots of learning was had.

 

Edited January 1, 2020 by Mazinger
Tried to orient uploaded pic, but no success. Robot mode was vertical on my iphone, but orientation was lost during upload.

[Urashiman]

Currently working on this VF-9. It'll be a static 1/72 version, so I can display it with my Hasegawa 1/72 kits. It is far from being finished and with my perfectionism, it'll take some time.

Here is a preview:

Two Piece Canopy: Done
Front Canards: Done
Cockpit Main Body: Done
Cockpit Panels + Other interior: 0%
Pilot Seat: 0%
Pilot: 0%
Nose: 30%
Main Wings: Done
Fins: 90%
Mainbody: 10%
Engine Bays: 0%
Arms: 0%
Gear: 0%
Exhausts: 0%

Other yet unknownparts to be added.

[Mazinger]

Got an old Gakken 1/55 Legioss Triple Changer that's missing a wing or two?

Well, you can print yourself some:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1To2wOGx1Wj-gakken-155-legioss-right-wing-replacement-v3

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9lrXEMkBgV1-gakken-155-legioss-left-wing-replacement-v3

Help yourselves.

They are not perfect reproductions, all the original panel lines aren't on them, but they look good enough to me.

I'm loving being able to restore these old toys.

Update 2X: Here's the thingiverse link:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4083103

Edited January 4, 2020 by Mazinger

[Valkyrie]

Great idea for a thread!

Mine is very much still a work in progress.  And I'm not great at 3D modeling, so it's slow going.  But I decided that I need to have a large scale model of the Hyperion from Legend of the Galactic Heroes in my life.

[HardlyNever]

Here is where I'm at with the hand now.  Any recommendations for painting on resin?  I need to match the color to the rest of the valk/hands:

[Urashiman]

On 1/18/2020 at 1:26 AM, HardlyNever said:

Here is where I'm at with the hand now.  Any recommendations for painting on resin?  I need to match the color to the rest of the valk/hands:

Sand the hand a bit first and then use Tamiya Surface Primer. Worked best for me for 3D printed parts. You'll be able to paint it with whatever color you like.

[HardlyNever]

So Tamiya racing white was definitely not the color I was looking for.  Any suggestions for matching with the grayish-white of the including hands?  I haven't tried it yet, but it almost seems like the primer itself might be pretty close to the color I'm looking for.  Is there any harm in just using the primer and not adding any paint?

[Urashiman]

11 hours ago, HardlyNever said:

So Tamiya racing white was definitely not the color I was looking for.  Any suggestions for matching with the grayish-white of the including hands?  I haven't tried it yet, but it almost seems like the primer itself might be pretty close to the color I'm looking for.  Is there any harm in just using the primer and not adding any paint?

I usually use the grey surface primer on my stuff. I even used it on a RC boat and did some test driving in the water with it. The primer is resistant to a lot of stuff, so it should be okay.

[Urashiman]

Current progress on the VF-9 I am working on.

[HardlyNever]

Cross-posting for more visibility (since there are more model-kit type people here).  Any help on matching the light gray of the DX vf-1s would be great:

 

[Urashiman]

14 hours ago, HardlyNever said:

Cross-posting for more visibility (since there are more model-kit type people here).  Any help on matching the light gray of the DX vf-1s would be great:

 

Hard to tell from the pictures. The "Hammer approach" would be to paint everything the same color instead of trying to match one part to the color of the rest.

Best would be to know which RAL hue is used for the plastic. (https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-plastics-p1/white-and-black-hues)

You can then go by the RAL color code and match the hand to that color.

[Knight26]

Just spotted this on FB, orientation and wall thickness matters.

[Chronocidal]

Ugh, lower surfaces are the bane of my existence.  I get great details and smooth printing as long as everything is on the sides or top, but I pretty much have to treat the print surface as the underside/backside of every part, which messes with how I actually want to orient the print layers.

Have had some good success with printing more parts from my excalibur though.  All this time spent working from home is great for keeping an eye on my printer.

[Sanity is Optional]

50 minutes ago, Chronocidal said:

Ugh, lower surfaces are the bane of my existence.  I get great details and smooth printing as long as everything is on the sides or top, but I pretty much have to treat the print surface as the underside/backside of every part, which messes with how I actually want to orient the print layers.

Have had some good success with printing more parts from my excalibur though.  All this time spent working from home is great for keeping an eye on my printer.

If it's a big enough print you can just split it in half and glue the bottom layers together?

[Chronocidal]

40 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

If it's a big enough print you can just split it in half and glue the bottom layers together?

That -might- work, though it will take a slight redesign of the pieces to be assembled that direction.  If it comes down to it, yes, a lot of my parts could possibly be done that way in halves, similar to how I made my Shapeways version, but the larger problem then becomes that I do not trust printing large pieces flat, because they curl horribly.  For instance, I would never print a wing shape flat. 

I might split it in half and place the wing root on the plate though, rather than printing the entire wing in one piece with the back edge downward, which is how I've done the tails already.  I would have to run a few tests to see how well the details turn out printed on their sides.  It's just a long process, since even these smaller parts take over twelve hours to print due to the fine layers and engravings.  The bigger main wing will probably take over a full day.

[Jasonc]

On 12/20/2019 at 4:24 PM, valhary said:

Great idea! I have some....

By any chance, if you're recasting the lance for your Paladin parts, would you mind recasting one for me? If so, just let me know how much it would be. Same for the VF-11 boosters for the New Edwards testing.

Edited April 13, 2020 by Jasonc

[valhary]

PM sent

[Jasonc]

Thanks. I'm hoping to get some more of my projects off the ground, and being at home for several weeks, I think I've caught up on a lot of things I've been wanting to do. I'm thinking about redoing the Spiderbug kit and make it a set available for order, so I will create a separate thread for it, and post some updates here as I go. The idea will be to make it where the arms can move and a pilot can be inserted, but my CAD skills are not that great, and I need to brush up.

[derex3592]

ohhh---I'd like a SpiderBug!!

[Mazinger]

In case you've bought the Mospeada Tread model created by Nico_3D, here are some mods that will allow you to connect it to the old Gakken 1/55 Legioss toys.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gLgLaiMUyK7-nico3dtreadfrontmodifications

I'm sharing the tinkercad model in case you want to see how I made the modifications and want to alter them for another toy, then you wouldn't have to start from scratch.

[Knight26]

Not Macross related.  But I am designing and printing kits of the fighters from my books.