MΔ - VF-9

[Urashiman]

On 12/15/2020 at 10:44 PM, valhary said:

One of our first buyers (a long time ago) finally started to work this bird

https://zh-cn.facebook.com/pg/dislexicons/posts/?ref=page_internal

Yeah - I just saw this build on FB as well!

NIce one

[valhary]

more pics

 

https://www.instagram.com/dislexicons/

[David Hingtgen]

So is that Max one, molded about 50/50 blue/white, and "only the bits that need it" are painted?  

[valhary]

Thats right we try to keep the paint work at minimum 

[Jasonc]

Aside from some decal trimming,  it I'd done.

 

[Bolt]

Bitchin dude!

[valhary]

Amazing job!!!!!!!! we need more pics

[Jasonc]

9 hours ago, valhary said:

Amazing job!!!!!!!! we need more pics

I'll try to get some more pics up at some point. I still want to make the gun connect, and I need to find where I put the tires.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

On 2/1/2021 at 11:13 PM, Jasonc said:

Aside from some decal trimming,  it I'd done.

 

Wow looking very nice!!!

We definitely need more pics!!!

[Jasonc]

On 2/5/2021 at 5:08 PM, Ignacio Ocamica said:

Wow looking very nice!!!

We definitely need more pics!!!

More up...

I still need to put magnets on the arms for the gun, but honestly, I've been lazy.

 

 

[Xigfrid]

Nice pictures @Jasonc! Thanks for sharing your custom with us. 

[Xigfrid]

Which mode is your favorite?

[Jasonc]

I definitely like fighter best. But that's my opinion of most valkyries.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

3 hours ago, Jasonc said:

More up...

I still need to put magnets on the arms for the gun, but honestly, I've been lazy.

 

 

A beauty!!!! Thank you for the pics @Jasonc

[Xigfrid]

Ok! If you prefer the fighter mode, you can probably slide the head completely inside the cover after you take pictures of the battroid of course!

Doing so can scratch a bit the head painting but the fuselage will be seamless. 

 

[Mechapilot77]

checking in after years of forgetting this awesomeness existed... can all the parts needed to make these be sourced here?

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/xigfrid3dshop?section=VF-9&s=0

 

 

[Jasonc]

6 hours ago, Mechapilot77 said:

checking in after years of forgetting this awesomeness existed... can all the parts needed to make these be sourced here?

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/xigfrid3dshop?section=VF-9&s=0

 

 

That is where I got mine from, aside from pins and screws. Those can be bought through eBay and Amazon though.

Edited April 8, 2021 by Jasonc

[Mechapilot77]

On 4/7/2021 at 9:17 PM, Jasonc said:

That is where I got mine from, aside from pins and screws. Those can be bought through eBay and Amazon though.

Did you use standard solid metal dowel pins or something like slotted spring pins, grooved pins etc?  TIA

[Jasonc]

6 minutes ago, Mechapilot77 said:

Did you use standard solid metal dowel pins or something like slotted spring pins, grooved pins etc?  TIA

Use solid steel pins. Don't use knurled pins. You will need different sizes,, which can be found in the instruction mNual, as well as screw sizes. For screws, I think the standard size is 1.7 x 6, 8, and 10. 

[Mechapilot77]

hmm have found all the pins I need except M1 x 13mm.  seems they are all even numbered after they get past a certain length (ie. 12 or 14 or 16 mm).  must have clicked on 30 different ebay sellers selling metric M1 pins.  lol.  If anyone has a good source, let me know.  Also, for the screws in these typs of 3d printed material, do I need self tapping or will regular machine screws work?

[Jasonc]

6 hours ago, Mechapilot77 said:

hmm have found all the pins I need except M1 x 13mm.  seems they are all even numbered after they get past a certain length (ie. 12 or 14 or 16 mm).  must have clicked on 30 different ebay sellers selling metric M1 pins.  lol.  If anyone has a good source, let me know.  Also, for the screws in these typs of 3d printed material, do I need self tapping or will regular machine screws work?

Use self tapping screws. For 3D printed parts, some of the holes are too small, and you won't get them to anchor. For any odd sized pins, I use the 20mm pins, and cut them down to the correct size. I have calipers that I use to measure them, so if they're a little off, I can fine sand them to the right length. Some I usually sand down a little less, so that they don't stick out at all. You can cut them using a good, large plier with a thick wire cutter. 1mm isn't too hard to cut.

[Mechapilot77]

11 hours ago, Jasonc said:

Use self tapping screws. For 3D printed parts, some of the holes are too small, and you won't get them to anchor. For any odd sized pins, I use the 20mm pins, and cut them down to the correct size. I have calipers that I use to measure them, so if they're a little off, I can fine sand them to the right length. Some I usually sand down a little less, so that they don't stick out at all. You can cut them using a good, large plier with a thick wire cutter. 1mm isn't too hard to cut.

thanks for the answers Jasonc.  Yeah i guess i will have to cut and sand.  was just afraid i'd deform then end but then again it is just 1mm.

[Xigfrid]

Hi guys, thanks Jasonc for answering all the questions !

Mechapilot77, since I buy precut pins, I haven't adjusted / cut pins to the strict recommended lengths. for instance, if it is said to use 13mm long pins, you should be good with either 12mm or 14mm ones.

[Mechapilot77]

1 hour ago, Xigfrid said:

Hi guys, thanks Jasonc for answering all the questions !

Mechapilot77, since I buy precut pins, I haven't adjusted / cut pins to the strict recommended lengths. for instance, if it is said to use 13mm long pins, you should be good with either 12mm or 14mm ones.

oh cool.  good to know.  btw i printed in the grey color pa12 multi jet infusion.  was that a mistake?  haha.  its a cool grey color but i wonder if i can sand it smooth or not or if i will just reveal more gritty looking porous looking surface?  if not, not big deal it looks kinda cool in that finish anyway and i'd probably just color in some details vs. painting the whole thing (at least on my first go around here). 

[Xigfrid]

The red one was printed in white Pa12 (standard plastic) and the grey one was printed in MJF PA12 (grey plastic). 

They both need 3 passes of prime/sanding to obtain a smooth surface. Just take your time to smooth them before painting!

[Mechapilot77]

thanks xigfrid.   btw, what type of primer and paint are people using on this? 

[505thAirborne]

51 minutes ago, Xigfrid said:

The red one was printed in white Pa12 (standard plastic) and the grey one was printed in MJF PA12 (grey plastic). 

They both need 3 passes of prime/sanding to obtain a smooth surface. Just take your time to smooth them before painting!

Very impressive, while the VF-9 is not one of my favorite designs to see it come to life, I do have a new appreciation for it. Fighter mode looks really good. 

Now if you ever to choose to do a VF-2JA or 2SS, I'd pull out the VISA for that. 

[Xigfrid]

On 6/4/2021 at 10:36 PM, Mechapilot77 said:

thanks xigfrid.   btw, what type of primer and paint are people using on this? 

I use Motip primer now, I have had good results compared to Tamiyas. For the paint, I have switched from Tamiya TS spray cans to LP pots so it is easier to mix colors and airbrush it. 

I am stilling having strange issues and irregular results with acrylic vernish cans reacting with the paint though! 

 

505thAirborne, sorry but it has been years that I haven’t designed such a big project, but I can see a few talented guys on Facebook. 

[wmkjr]

Didn't even realize Tamiya had Lacquer paints in pots available. Is that a recent thing?

 

[TMBounty_Hunter]

Tamiya started introducing lacquer bottles in late 2017, initially coming out with 15 color batches ever few months then slowing down to adding 5 colors at a time

[Xigfrid]

I don’t know when they have become available but they can save some time! 

I generally thin these paints with Tamiya Lacquer thinner (retarder type) and it works just perfect! I have never regretted using this thinner over the cheaper options such as acetone thinning.