Bandai DX Chogokin 1/48 VF-1

[no3Ljm]

1 hour ago, Repiv_Onex said:

Does anyone know whether the YF-19 Full Set Pack (Bandai) reaction missile can be used on the bandai VF-1?

Not sure if the connector peg will fit. But I’m pretty sure the DX YF-19 Reaction Missiles will look small for the DX VF-1.

Edit: Found this answer from @Darth Mingus on the DX VF-31 thread:

Quote

”You are correct, the DX VF-1 missiles will be too large for the VF-31.  Also, the connectors are complete different.  The closest compatible set of missiles come from the DX - YF-19 Full Set and those attachments are compatible with the VF-31.”

 

Edited January 6, 2022 by no3Ljm

[Zywll]

Hey guys,  is anybody selling one of the Dx Chogokin VF-1J antennas? Or knows where I can get one? Unfortunately they are too small that it just got lost without noticing for a while. Thanks!

[Angesdad]

1 minute ago, Zywll said:

Hey guys,  is anybody selling one of the Dx Chogokin VF-1 antennas? Or knows where I can get one? Unfortunately they are too small that it just got lost without noticing for a while. Thanks!

Fixed for ya. Perhaps you should post on WTB section.

[last_raven]

28 minutes ago, Zywll said:

Hey guys,  is anybody selling one of the Dx Chogokin VF-1J antennas? Or knows where I can get one? Unfortunately they are too small that it just got lost without noticing for a while. Thanks!

IIRC they come with two in the box? Are you down to your last or are you out completely?

[Zywll]

1 hour ago, last_raven said:

IIRC they come with two in the box? Are you down to your last or are you out completely?

Unfortunately both got lost, I didn't even get to use them, they must have fallen off the tray when I was putting the plastic cover back.

[Zywll]

1 hour ago, Angesdad said:

Fixed for ya. Perhaps you should post on WTB section.

Ah, I didn't know they were the same, I have not opened my other VF-1's. What's the 'WTB'' section? I looked for it on this forum, but didn't get a straight reference. Thanls!

[505thAirborne]

22 minutes ago, Zywll said:

Ah, I didn't know they were the same, I have not opened my other VF-1's. What's the 'WTB'' section? I looked for it on this forum, but didn't get a straight reference. Thanls!

"WTB"  Want To Buy section OR now simply WANTED, if there's anything you want to buy from a member that's the place to go. 

 

Edited January 14, 2022 by 505thAirborne

[nightmareB4macross]

12 minutes ago, Zywll said:

Unfortunately both got lost, I didn't even get to use them, they must have fallen off the tray when I was putting the plastic cover back.

Check the plastic trays once again they sometimes get lodged into another item or part of the tray.

[rocketblast]

Hey guys I just imported a chogokin valk from Japan which, you know that center piece that clips into the canope and holds the legs onto the valk in robot mode?  The grey piece of plastic that is hinged off of the metal piece.  Anyway, that plastic came broken from the factory.  What would you guys do?  Bug the seller about it or just glue it and leave it be?  And also would I want to use Tamiya thin model glue to get a good bond?  Thanks for your advice.

[Angesdad]

6 hours ago, rocketblast said:

Hey guys I just imported a chogokin valk from Japan which, you know that center piece that clips into the canope and holds the legs onto the valk in robot mode?  The grey piece of plastic that is hinged off of the metal piece.  Anyway, that plastic came broken from the factory.  What would you guys do?  Bug the seller about it or just glue it and leave it be?  And also would I want to use Tamiya thin model glue to get a good bond?  Thanks for your advice.

Ouch sorry to hear that. That grey piece should be ABS so you might want to use any good CA glue or even try Tamiya ABS cement if you got one lying around.  

[betocc]

7 hours ago, rocketblast said:

Hey guys I just imported a chogokin valk from Japan which, you know that center piece that clips into the canope and holds the legs onto the valk in robot mode?  The grey piece of plastic that is hinged off of the metal piece.  Anyway, that plastic came broken from the factory.  What would you guys do?  Bug the seller about it or just glue it and leave it be?  And also would I want to use Tamiya thin model glue to get a good bond?  Thanks for your advice.

I had the same problem with one VF-1J Armored I purchased from OkiniLand and they exchanged the piece, it took a lot of time but finally the piece was shipped to me these days. If you bought it from a store with good reputation try this, Okini told me they sent it back to Bandai for a replacement. I tried to glue it but it didn't work as expected so I just took the long road for an exchange.

[obakesan]

quick question for folks who have the VF 1D. Does the cockpit instrument panel come off easy? I was checking mine, put Hikaru inside cockpit and notified the black block of the instruments moved. Pulled and whole thing came off. It's not broken or anything maybe a case of missing glue or something. It slides in time and is ok. Just curious if this is a common thing?

[Angesdad]

9 minutes ago, obakesan said:

quick question for folks who have the VF 1D. Does the cockpit instrument panel come off easy? I was checking mine, put Hikaru inside cockpit and notified the black block of the instruments moved. Pulled and whole thing came off. It's not broken or anything maybe a case of missing glue or something. It slides in time and is ok. Just curious if this is a common thing?

Nothing's broken and that is normal. In fact some crazy people swap the cockpits going from TV to DYRL vice versa.

[rocketblast]

2 hours ago, betocc said:

I had the same problem with one VF-1J Armored I purchased from OkiniLand and they exchanged the piece, it took a lot of time but finally the piece was shipped to me these days. If you bought it from a store with good reputation try this, Okini told me they sent it back to Bandai for a replacement. I tried to glue it but it didn't work as expected so I just took the long road for an exchange.

Unfortunately I got it on ebay and the seller isn't responding yet so I probably won't be able to go that route.  I'll try the ABS plastic glue that Angesdad mentioned.

Thanks for all your replies guys, much appreciated

[betocc]

15 minutes ago, rocketblast said:

Unfortunately I got it on ebay and the seller isn't responding yet so I probably won't be able to go that route.  I'll try the ABS plastic glue that Angesdad mentioned.

Thanks for all your replies guys, much appreciated

You can probably fill a claim against the seller, get back your money and try a different seller, you should try.

[rocketblast]

10 hours ago, betocc said:

You can probably fill a claim against the seller, get back your money and try a different seller, you should try.

I got partial refund and bought the ABS glue and put the rest of the moneys back on my CC.  Thanks.  Hopefully Tamiya ABS glue works as good as I think it might.  I will use the rest of the glue on a couple of polystyrene kits I have, as I read that their ABS glue can be used on ABS and polystyrene which is pretty good.  I lost my Tamiya thin cement, no idea where that stuff is.

[Laughingman687]

Hello gentleman. I recently took the plunge into the plastic crack habit that is the Bandai DX Chogokin line, and up until my second VF1 I have been extremely happy with them... but to my absolute horror this evening: I've discovered that since the last pose I put my VF-1J into, it's developed a loose warble above the gerwalk joint- just above the new hinge that allows for outward-side movement. 

https://ibb.co/QPhK4Q2

 

*EDIT: the loose warble is where the gerwalk joint connects to the bottom of the intake fan housing above the thigh. Sorry I realized that the original info given was not descriptive enough of the problem part(s)/joint. 

 

Please tell me that this is something I can repair relatively easily...as between the weight of the legs and the collection of joints in the effected area, I'm afraid that I'll come home from work one day soon and find a legless Valk on my shelf.

 

 

Edited January 22, 2022 by Laughingman687
Additional info given

[Sanity is Optional]

Just to confirm, you are aware that there is supposed to be a second joint in that area that lets the legs splay to the sides?

[no3Ljm]

Yup, there's a second joint under the intake. Here's a pic from @jenius Anymoon site showing the legs posed wider.

Edited January 22, 2022 by no3Ljm

[Slave IV]

1 hour ago, Laughingman687 said:

it's developed a loose warble above the gerwalk joint- just above the new hinge that allows for outward-side movement. 

Seems like he’s well aware of the joint. 

[Laughingman687]

Oh yes, well aware of said joint that allows wider outward motion.... the wobble/loose connection is where the gerwalk joints' inner frame connects to the bottom of the intake fan housing... 

[Laughingman687]

Also, from below. It's like a loose baby tooth up in' ere.

[last_raven]

35 minutes ago, Laughingman687 said:

Also, from below. It's like a loose baby tooth up in' ere.

I suspect that the (singular) screw from the splay joint to the rear of the intake detail piece has come loose or jumped some threads. It may pull out all the way as mine did but this happened for me due to the splay joint being so tight on my Hikaru movie ver.

I had to take the leg apart and modify it and glue a bunch of stuff. It's held up to this day but I had to drill the splay joint to get to the screw head to try a longer screw and some threadlocker or glue (been a long time I don't remember) first before committing to locking it up and basically gluing the edges of the joint to the inside area of the housing and then the screw and screw head to all the surfaces they contact. This removed the splay motion on my broken leg so locked up the other leg too.

You can avoid having to drill it if you have what you need to knock the roll pin out of the joint and reinstall it/another one and that will probably loosen up the joint enough to put less strain on that connection. If it's too loose after you can tighten it with some super glue into the roll pin area then moving the joint before the glue sets.

A single metal screw into ABS or PVC (I think ABS for that) holds the entire leg on.. They could have had a hole from that diecast rear cover with the screws index with a pin on the splay joint to help give it some strength but I may be mis-remember how that whole upper leg area goes together.

If you don't want to bother with all that even if the leg falls off it holds together awesomely in fighter mode with the leg just in place

Edited January 22, 2022 by last_raven

[Laughingman687]

Thank you Last Raven, after some sphincter-puckering plastic plying and a harrowing crash course in low torque drilling, I have it repaired...for the time being. 

 

On an unrelated note, and I think I already know the answer- shouldn't be surprised that there's some overlap here- but is your screen name referencing Armored Core?  Specifically what was my golden age of AC III thru AC:LR?

[last_raven]

15 hours ago, Laughingman687 said:

Thank you Last Raven, after some sphincter-puckering plastic plying and a harrowing crash course in low torque drilling, I have it repaired...for the time being. 

 

On an unrelated note, and I think I already know the answer- shouldn't be surprised that there's some overlap here- but is your screen name referencing Armored Core?  Specifically what was my golden age of AC III thru AC:LR?

I'm glad I could help. Definitely high up on the pucker factor.

If you marred up your screw cover panel like I did, mine was an easy fix with some loose runner plastic in the same or similar shade of white that I shaved off and kind of molded in with tamiya cement SP then sanded. You'd never know mine was broken (or that the CA glue I used to secure the joint assembly had spilled out the front and all over the bare side of the leg, again fixed with slow gradual sanding)

And thanks for catching the reference @Laughingman687 those were fantastic games with fantastic soundtracks. Likewise, I'm a big SAC fan. Laughing Man was a great arc. 

I'll have to look further up in my post history to credit the person who initially guided me on the repair. If you were able to do it with just a new screw or by threadlocking or gluing it, it's them who should have the credit.

[last_raven]

On 5/20/2020 at 11:12 PM, RedComet said:

I fixed mine after getting some advice from a guy on FB. First, get yourself a baggie of this exact size tiny screw It’s Only 1mm longer than the original, but makes a big difference  (Found mine at the Home Depot, <$1 for 2)

 

Put loctite on it, let it sit for 30 minutes while you do the next step.

then you will need to disassemble the leg, starting with the cover as said. After that screw is out you have to gently but firmly pull the thigh apart. This will give you access to the  gray accordion looking piece of plastic. There is a screw attaching that to the metal part of the hinge, unscrew that. 
 

Now comes the really fun part, bend the hinge out as far as you can, then With the side that broke off flat on the ground, take a drill and drill down as straight as you can (Which will kind of go through the hinge top piece of metal at a diagonal angle directly towards where the screw is to make a hole just wide enough to put a small Phillips head screwdriver through. (Sorry the picture isn’t a bit better) Then it will look like this. This will let you actually put in a screwdriver in a way that will let you turn the screws you need to turn to fix the break.

 

Then before actually trying to reattach it to the top piece with the new screw, I would undo the three screws that hold it to the hip join. Now you should be able to re-screw it in, one of my tabs was broken so I also applied a good amount of modeling glue that is supposed to be able to bind metal to plastic All around where the screw goes in the hole, but not in the actual hole itself, which is what Loctite is for. Line the screw up, gently re-screw it into the hole, it should connect snuggly, and let that part all dry for an hour. Then just carefully reassemble everything. It isn’t what I would call an easy fix, but better than just writing off a $300 figure right?

@Laughingman687 this is the post that got me started. Unfortunately this didn't work out for me though I did try. Thanks to @RedComet for the initial guidance

[Digitalfiend]

So ... I thought I was done picking up Valkyries but, since being away from the forums for a bit, I completely missed the VF-1D release and just saw the armored VF-1J set!  The VF-1D really triggered some strong memories of watching Robotech in the 80s, so now I have a VF-1D on its way to me. 😁 I'm also trying to decide if I want to grab the armored VF-1J set.  I'm hoping someone here might be able to answer a question for me though: does the VF-1J that comes in the armored set have the enhancements that later releases got, in particular, does the nose-cone have the lip on the peg to keep the cone from flopping down?

I'm trying to decide if I'd rather get the armored kit and just throw that on my VF-1S or VF-1A...but I've always wanted the VF-1J argh.  I'm tempted to get the super parts set too but it's like $300 cad to get that over here.  Wow - that's almost 2/3rds of what I paid for the VF-1D.  😅

[no3Ljm]

44 minutes ago, Digitalfiend said:

I'm hoping someone here might be able to answer a question for me though: does the VF-1J that comes in the armored set have the enhancements that later releases got, in particular, does the nose-cone have the lip on the peg to keep the cone from flopping down? 

Yes.

[borgified]

50 minutes ago, Digitalfiend said:

So ... I thought I was done picking up Valkyries but, since being away from the forums for a bit, I completely missed the VF-1D release and just saw the armored VF-1J set!  The VF-1D really triggered some strong memories of watching Robotech in the 80s, so now I have a VF-1D on its way to me. 😁 I'm also trying to decide if I want to grab the armored VF-1J set.  I'm hoping someone here might be able to answer a question for me though: does the VF-1J that comes in the armored set have the enhancements that later releases got, in particular, does the nose-cone have the lip on the peg to keep the cone from flopping down?

I'm trying to decide if I'd rather get the armored kit and just throw that on my VF-1S or VF-1A...but I've always wanted the VF-1J argh.  I'm tempted to get the super parts set too but it's like $300 cad to get that over here.  Wow - that's almost 2/3rds of what I paid for the VF-1D.  😅

 

3 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Yes.

If you miss the DX 1J+GBP right now @Digitalfiend, it's going to get harder to find one in the future and the its not going to get cheaper. Poke in the For Sales threads if a member has one spare that they're willing to sell off plus look at secondary Japanese retailers like Amiami and Mandarake (there's also a dedicated thread for it also). If you see one that catches your eye and at the price range that you can afford and willing to take, snag it. 

However the risk is that another few customers is also eyeing it a the same time you are and it's a race to get a order in before it vanishes.     

[rocketblast]

47 minutes ago, borgified said:

 

If you miss the DX 1J+GBP right now @Digitalfiend, it's going to get harder to find one in the future and the its not going to get cheaper. Poke in the For Sales threads if a member has one spare that they're willing to sell off plus look at secondary Japanese retailers like Amiami and Mandarake (there's also a dedicated thread for it also). If you see one that catches your eye and at the price range that you can afford and willing to take, snag it. 

However the risk is that another few customers is also eyeing it a the same time you are and it's a race to get a order in before it vanishes.     

They are reasonable on ebay.

[rocketblast]

1 hour ago, Digitalfiend said:

So ... I thought I was done picking up Valkyries but, since being away from the forums for a bit, I completely missed the VF-1D release and just saw the armored VF-1J set!  The VF-1D really triggered some strong memories of watching Robotech in the 80s, so now I have a VF-1D on its way to me. 😁 I'm also trying to decide if I want to grab the armored VF-1J set.  I'm hoping someone here might be able to answer a question for me though: does the VF-1J that comes in the armored set have the enhancements that later releases got, in particular, does the nose-cone have the lip on the peg to keep the cone from flopping down?

I'm trying to decide if I'd rather get the armored kit and just throw that on my VF-1S or VF-1A...but I've always wanted the VF-1J argh.  I'm tempted to get the super parts set too but it's like $300 cad to get that over here.  Wow - that's almost 2/3rds of what I paid for the VF-1D.  😅

I have a spare armor set I could sell you.

[Digitalfiend]

1 hour ago, borgified said:

If you miss the DX 1J+GBP right now @Digitalfiend, it's going to get harder to find one in the future and the its not going to get cheaper. Poke in the For Sales threads if a member has one spare that they're willing to sell off plus look at secondary Japanese retailers like Amiami and Mandarake (there's also a dedicated thread for it also). If you see one that catches your eye and at the price range that you can afford and willing to take, snag it. 

However the risk is that another few customers is also eyeing it a the same time you are and it's a race to get a order in before it vanishes.     

So...no pressure then? 😁

What do you think the availability of the VF-1S Roy will be like over time?  That's another one I'm eyeing too, but it sounds like the 1J+GBP is the better buy at the moment; the price seems pretty good for getting a valk+armour, especially if Roy will be around for a while.

I'm definitely leaning towards getting the 1J+GBP.  There is a local seller near me that has free shipping, but it still works out cheaper ordering direct from Japan by about $115 cad (including taxes).  I might call and see if they are willing    

2 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Yes.

Excellent, thank you!

[sqidd]

6 hours ago, Digitalfiend said:

What do you think the availability of the VF-1S Roy will be like over time? 

Availability will drop. That said, it has probably been the most available DX VF-1 release so far. As far as price goes on release day (not to be confused with PO pricing/PO day) they were going for about $285 shipped to the US via DHL (new pricing). That was 11/28/2020. Since then the price has increased to about $350 shipped via DHL to the US (Mandrake "used" pricing) and $25-30 more for new through places like eBay/Yahoo Auctions.

[Special Sauce]

9 hours ago, rocketblast said:

They are reasonable on ebay.

Yeah that's about the only Valk that is LOL

[Darth Mingus]

1 hour ago, sqidd said:

Availability will drop. That said, it has probably been the most available DX VF-1 release so far. As far as price goes on release day (not to be confused with PO pricing/PO day) they were going for about $285 shipped to the US via DHL (new pricing). That was 11/28/2020. Since then the price has increased to about $350 shipped via DHL to the US (Mandrake "used" pricing) and $25-30 more for new through places like eBay/Yahoo Auctions.

I agree with Sqidd. It is very unlikely the TV version VF-1S will ever be rereleased. Most Japanese fans are waiting for the DYRL version.  If Bandai is to release another 1S, it will probably be DYRL Roy or a DYRL Max (P-Bandai).   This is conjecture at this point, no official announcements.