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Posted
3 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

During the whole backwards number thing, I kept wishing someone would go and spray paint Bandai's corporate logo backwards on the back-facing side of their headquarters, just to exemplify how stupid their "symmetry" argument was.

:rofl:

Posted (edited)

Finally had a good long inspection of my VF-1S Focker and tried on the TV Super packs, and wow it's so gorgeous. I'm looking forward to when I can get another detolf to display my DX VF-1 series.

Only 1 issue on my VF-1S, which was the left thigh have a very loose swivel, but it was still pretty stable in all modes when standing, but wouldn't be able to hold the left leg in an airborne pose. Since I have a 2nd VF-1S Focker on the way, this 1st one will be relegated to fighter mode, where I don't have to worry tight swivel, and hopefully the 2nd one has tight thigh swivels, but it probably won't be an issue either as I think I won't be putting it in an airborne pose anyway.

Now it and the TV Super Pack is back in the box. 😅

DX.jpg.48ff0d3366d664091444d7b2a52307f9.jpg

Edited by eggy99
Posted
13 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

while I believe most WWII-era Naval aircraft already had white struts.

Some had silver, apple green, black, or dark grey.  Largely depends on the factory they were made in.  Some had 2 or three of those colors (See F4F Wildcats).  But most were the same color as the aircraft's underside: light grey (Grumman grey) or dark sea blue or insignia white.  (White would have been more common in late 1943 through early 1944, then not again until the late fifties.)

    

13 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

They don't animate the ejection warnings either,

Eh?  They were in almost every close-up. 

Image58.jpg.fa014c148f5b39410c7d23c7e5c86328.jpgImage39.jpg.4ca38176ec0dc56c4828f20dee8216f9.jpgImage31.jpg.ee8458278f3f21d9b37c5d484d20744e.jpgImage25.jpg.b48a70bf938c1105c66ab285d3c6f1c6.jpgImage46.jpg.2a014569d7020b1b4c47479d67ffe1f7.jpgImage54.jpg.2c88480520dd18a8fe1fda23b13d7c46.jpg

 

14 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

That includes the gear.

That's an assumption I wouldn't make.    But hey, whatever floats your carrier.  

Posted
10 hours ago, rsvictor1976 said:

Quick questions... 

Were there any issues with the VF-1S Hikaru Movie Valkyrie or Strike Parts set?

Define issue.

-Are you asking if it has widespread issues that were common? The answer is no.

-Are you asking if there were the same random QC issues you will get with just about any product the answer is yes. 

Your chances of getting one with a QC issue are the same as with any/every other toy.

 

Posted
14 hours ago, rsvictor1976 said:

Quick questions... 

Were there any issues with the VF-1S Hikaru Movie Valkyrie or Strike Parts set?

It has the most beautiful right tail amongst all the DX valks. 100 percent bandai perfection. Some say is so perfect they were thinking of knocking 001 percent off its tail score.

Posted
1 hour ago, Gabe Q said:

Whoa! What is this thing being hoisted above the Valk? I've never seen something like that. mwf.jpg.9f435878f10169d72110732cdd73ae94.jpg

Fan racer?

Posted

Did someone mention F-14 landing gear? 

BTW,  I have these in uncompressed form if anyone wants them..

Optimized-20200620_173205.jpg.73efc15795748c41cdaca68f78880068.jpg

Optimized-20200620_173107.jpg.38ce873ce44de349f1758d4f932485c8.jpg

Optimized-20200620_172954.jpg.7b6c49e75e1946aecd991c19e61ee077.jpg

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Optimized-20200620_172757.jpg.aa394bfb5ca38e95c22c8569b6470fd0.jpg

 

My best part of the summer was getting to familiarize myself and get flght rated on several WW2 planes.    For American aircraft white is the predominant color for undercarriage,  best guess on my part is to make any leaks or other issues readily apparent during  visual inspection. 

Posted (edited)

I almost forgot the WW2 images.. again strictly for landing gear research purposes only!  😆

I pulled a sampling this time,  but most were white.  

Optimized-20210715_133715.jpg.8bae62af89184c51bbb298046bb041d6.jpg

Optimized-20210715_133342.jpg.338fcae8d6e1ad8b3c72e336c7e68997.jpg

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Ok back to your regularly scheduled programming..

Edited by Stampeed Valkyrie
Posted
I think USAF and US-Marines uses different colors on their jets' landing gears.

I think the "White" gears was specific to USN jets, and possibly just with the F8, F4 Phantom-II (navy), F-18, and of course, the F14.
Posted
1 hour ago, Stampeed Valkyrie said:

Did someone mention F-14 landing gear? 

BTW,  I have these in uncompressed form if anyone wants them..

Optimized-20200620_173205.jpg.73efc15795748c41cdaca68f78880068.jpg

Optimized-20200620_173107.jpg.38ce873ce44de349f1758d4f932485c8.jpg

Optimized-20200620_172954.jpg.7b6c49e75e1946aecd991c19e61ee077.jpg

Optimized-20200620_172834.jpg.7dc331942e1aa649a49d3c776f941c70.jpg

Optimized-20200620_172757.jpg.aa394bfb5ca38e95c22c8569b6470fd0.jpg

 

My best part of the summer was getting to familiarize myself and get flght rated on several WW2 planes.    For American aircraft white is the predominant color for undercarriage,  best guess on my part is to make any leaks or other issues readily apparent during  visual inspection. 

And cracks. It used to be standard to paint interiors/roll cages in race cars white for the same reason.

Posted
On 10/12/2021 at 9:34 AM, rsvictor1976 said:

Is there anyone selling replacements? Maybe 3D printed replicas?

No, you'd never get an exact color match to the original fists.  I think repair is your best (if not your only) option here...

Drill a hole through the center of the ball-joint, at least far enough in to provide the leverage you need to pop it out of the forearm.  Drill a matching hole through the fist; there's a clear circle there where the joint snapped off, so you can center your hole in that circle to assure a proper alignment.  The holes should be identical in circumference to whatever metal pin you use to secure them together, and a decent CA glue should help weld everything together.

I demonstrated the approach in my last YouTube video, where I made custom ball-joints for a resin kit:

It's at 14:30 (if your browser doesn't automatically take you to that point in the video).

Posted (edited)

I found a use for the extra Hikaru pilot figs I had after getting some GBP sets (and yes you have to slightly trim the backseat pilot legs to fit)

20211015_014801_HDR.jpg.1dcfb9f07fddff2053de35a9ffe5030b.jpg

Edited by Duymon
Posted
On 3/21/2020 at 6:17 AM, valar said:

Another point I don't like in the shape of the canopy... very different from the line art...

48367687_1960189604073011_1798918434562506752_n.jpg.baa8289fb7c2b31c8cd7ac362640ec0f.jpg.28c9096cdb191a20d6b8c1aa690a2f20.jpgUntitled-1.jpg.a0bcc46a2746ee851a58010af94f7fb2.jpg

 

On 3/21/2020 at 2:16 PM, nightmareB4macross said:

I am in total agreement with on this. There are just way too many inconsistencies with the DX. What makes it worse is when a comparison using the hybrid stylized lineart of the Macross File books or Hasegawa mode sheets is used. Those just make everyone forget how they should actually be shaped.

Here are some raw pictures of what the leading edge of the TV VF-1 canopies should be.

AF52EE5F-F11D-44DA-A86F-688B0C4F86C5.jpeg

5171A764-E9D6-4633-B7E2-2B778101D0EE.jpeg

319590CF-E128-47F4-AB9F-16453B1B5619.jpeg

E85E3B05-3778-44C3-A551-41DDADFE39EC.jpeg

Good evening everyone,

 

I have browsing these threads for countless hours trying to decide which Valk I should pull the trigger on, as I am only getting ONE or two at best. This decision is up to me of course. But throughout my journey, I have come to envelope a true sympathy for all of you in the sense of how much anguish and stress that has ensued in trying to get these stateside. Also, coupled with the other factors of inflated prices and some minor qc issues. Lastly, which has prompted this post is the acute recognition of the canopy design discrepancy from the line art. Unbelievable. I am truly amazed. I am not too picky but astonished that I missed this and wow what an epiphany. I hope I didn’t rattle too many cages, forgive me…I’ve had a few drinks tonight and felt compelled to comment. I love your company all! I've been learning quite a bit and having fun. Cheers.

Posted
53 minutes ago, Kakizaki2021 said:

I have browsing these threads for countless hours trying to decide which Valk I should pull the trigger on, as I am only getting ONE or two at best.

^ Famous last words. LOL. Once you get one, you'll get sucked into the valkyrie collecting vortex ....

Posted
7 hours ago, Kakizaki2021 said:

 

Good evening everyone,

 

I have browsing these threads for countless hours trying to decide which Valk I should pull the trigger on, as I am only getting ONE or two at best. This decision is up to me of course. But throughout my journey, I have come to envelope a true sympathy for all of you in the sense of how much anguish and stress that has ensued in trying to get these stateside. Also, coupled with the other factors of inflated prices and some minor qc issues. Lastly, which has prompted this post is the acute recognition of the canopy design discrepancy from the line art. Unbelievable. I am truly amazed. I am not too picky but astonished that I missed this and wow what an epiphany. I hope I didn’t rattle too many cages, forgive me…I’ve had a few drinks tonight and felt compelled to comment. I love your company all! I've been learning quite a bit and having fun. Cheers.

Just 1 or 2....oh the memories of an innocent time....🤧:ph34r:

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Kakizaki2021 said:

as I am only getting ONE or two at best. 

I also remember those innocent days... These 1/60 yamatos are so good, yeah you have to remove the legs but the scale is perfect. I will never need another valk again.... A few 1/60v1 later... These Yamato 1/48, outside of the chicken hands, are so perfect, I will never buy another valk again... After also grabbing quite a few I did manage to escape the entire 1/60v2 range... but I then said i don't need the the DX valks after their teasers... Happy with my yammies... But nooooo, not only do they fix the Yamato chicken hands, the level of detail is so good, I've now got a few too... I wonder what improvement will get me to upgrade the entire line again after i complete vermilion squad and call it complete... Again.....

Oh, did I mention I also ended up collecting some of the HMR line too.... Was never going to get that either except the scale is more suited to take to friends places and play with toy planes and robots... And they look so good too....

I should stop now... 😅

Edited by KFDzero
Posted
5 hours ago, seti88 said:

Just 1 or 2....oh the memories of an innocent time....🤧:ph34r:

Same.. i intended to be very selective. But max is arriving tomorrow which means I’ll have all but kakizaki dyrl

 

it does help the wallet that the releases seem like 6 months apart   

Posted
30 minutes ago, Paco Grande said:

Yeah I once said I only want one DX valk and I now own five.

I only wanted 3. I have 19!:fool: Or is it 20?:rofl:

Posted
1 hour ago, levzloi said:

or 30?....    I might have a problem......

I just counted. Only 19 DX VF-1's. Not a problem!:D

Posted

If I promise not to plug up the toilet, can I come over to play with just 1 of those dx vf1?

Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

I only have 10! ...YF/VF-19 figures...in 1/60 scale...

 

Ten 19's!!!!:ohmy:

I've only got 14 non VF-1 DX's.

4 minutes ago, f-valk said:

If I promise not to plug up the toilet, can I come over to play with just 1 of those dx vf1?

Sure!:good:

Edited by sqidd
Posted
3 minutes ago, sqidd said:

Ten 19's!!!!:ohmy:

I've only got 14 non VF-1 DX's.

Sure!:good:

🤩Yay!

Posted

This could be another thread…”If you HAD to only keep or buy only one SDFM valk, who or why would you choose?”

I like all the characters and virtually all of the mecha, enemy included. My issues are for only wanting one or two likely are shared by many you guys first starting out. But for the most part, my issues are pretty complicated, aside of considering the practical issues. I have collected another franchise to it’s hilt and as such I can’t reembark on this crusade as I’d like. But in the instance of say Mospeada or “The New Generation,” it was pretty simple. I easily chose the Scott/Stig Legioss by Sentinel and am very pleased. I also have a Yammy Nora Valk from Macross Zero coming very soon, which I am extremely excited about. These choices were pretty simple because of the few characters and a favorite stood out for which I would elect to get, but with SDF Macross, not easy at all given the number of characters and their variants painted across films (SDFM, DYRL, and Flashback) whom I collectively like. Not to mention that the mecha parts are scattered around in different kits costing a lot. I have my favorite picks but a couple have not yet been released. I’m holding out, but will likely wind up like our friend the dead Zentraedi soldier holding the Minmay doll in the desert from the series.

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, lavinrac said:

Same.. i intended to be very selective. But max is arriving tomorrow which means I’ll have all but kakizaki dyrl

 

it does help the wallet that the releases seem like 6 months apart   

If you are referring to 1/48 vf-1 releases, that gap might be wider now that delta valks are coming out. 

So it is a bit of a breather yes, but will see if bandai teases the TV kaki or even the rest of the SDFM squad too in next month's TN event...

 

11 hours ago, levzloi said:

or 30?....    I might have a problem......

WELCOME TO VALKAHOLICS ANONYMOUS!

4 hours ago, Kakizaki2021 said:

This could be another thread…”If you HAD to only keep or buy only one SDFM valk, who or why would you choose?”

I like all the characters and virtually all of the mecha, enemy included. My issues are for only wanting one or two likely are shared by many you guys first starting out. But for the most part, my issues are pretty complicated, aside of considering the practical issues. I have collected another franchise to it’s hilt and as such I can’t reembark on this crusade as I’d like. But in the instance of say Mospeada or “The New Generation,” it was pretty simple. I easily chose the Scott/Stig Legioss by Sentinel and am very pleased. I also have a Yammy Nora Valk from Macross Zero coming very soon, which I am extremely excited about. These choices were pretty simple because of the few characters and a favorite stood out for which I would elect to get, but with SDF Macross, not easy at all given the number of characters and their variants painted across films (SDFM, DYRL, and Flashback) whom I collectively like. Not to mention that the mecha parts are scattered around in different kits costing a lot. I have my favorite picks but a couple have not yet been released. I’m holding out, but will likely wind up like our friend the dead Zentraedi soldier holding the Minmay doll in the desert from the series.

I think that question has been covered in what is your fav valk? or If you could only get one valk threads somewhere....

Doesn't matter... if you cant decide, let the pics do the talking....courtesy of one Super enabler... 

Spoiler

15265114400_7c63c3085d_b.jpg.5a435471d005349e55cffab71f8bc6d7.jpg50851376867_dfbe1aa49b_h.jpg.1cdbc4b6ea17cc20b267654a2acf94b8.jpg50835926808_6533ccffc9_h.jpg.8f34a39f9673c38601c9652fa8915ddb.jpg50861437541_9c01774a30_h.jpg.8505115ef67431ff9a5538faf2884c33.jpg24035050572_966bb5e807_h.jpg.4d35e4e1172646317807d58f70d0b47f.jpg26296742967_22d9a5c50f_h.jpg.be4ed0fe8a3e379566e17807ddea26a7.jpg

consider yourself saburo'ed! (in a stars in your eyes way)😁

 

 

 

Edited by seti88
Posted
On 10/12/2021 at 9:00 PM, tekering said:

No, you'd never get an exact color match to the original fists.  I think repair is your best (if not your only) option here...

Drill a hole through the center of the ball-joint, at least far enough in to provide the leverage you need to pop it out of the forearm.  Drill a matching hole through the fist; there's a clear circle there where the joint snapped off, so you can center your hole in that circle to assure a proper alignment.  The holes should be identical in circumference to whatever metal pin you use to secure them together, and a decent CA glue should help weld everything together.

The part is made of ABS; I would recommend the use of liquid model cement/plastic weld (Tenex, Ambroid, Tamiya, even Testors), a solvent, made to bond styrene family of plastics by chemically melting the two pieces together into a single - as good as new - piece.  The resulting repair, for this particular application, will be far stronger, cleaner, and seamless, then CA.

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