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Bandai DX Chogokin 1/48 VF-1


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51 minutes ago, davidwhangchoi said:

That's horrible. Dx is fragile. 

What are you basing that assessment on? Pictures of two broken Valks? If they only made 100 of them that would be within the failure rate for most manufactured products. And that is assuming that the person who was transforming it wasn't hammer handed. There is zero evidence that the DX is fragile. If anything their is copious evidence that they're not.

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35 minutes ago, VF-1A Cannon Fodder said:

I did.  He seems to mock a company that he keeps buying from

25 minutes ago, Bolt said:

Umm...don't we all?:p

Aren't we all, right? Besides, no matter how we always get Bandai'd, we still buy their stuff. Why? Because no other company is making our fix. :rolleyes:

Another example is that we make fun or get mad at NY. But yet, we always run to them if we miss getting PO's from the other stores. ^_^

 

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2 hours ago, sqidd said:

I would love to hear what an archaeologist from 2000yrs in the futures has for a theory on what the Valks represent.

As a professionally-trained archaeologist, I can tell what the standard explanation is when we don't know an object's purpose: ritual item. Imagine an archaeologist finding a Detolf filled with these things, carefully posed and displayed, with three copies of the same variant showing a transformation sequence. Looks like a shrine and valks are our deities. Given that they're machines and people are inside of them, whole books would be written about the deep symbolism of the fusion of humans and technology, plus some ramblings about how ancient myths and legends about man transforming into animals had been updated for our era.

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3 hours ago, Bolt said:

Am i the only one who doesn't have a Yamato yellowing Hikaru VF-1S?

Certainly not.

1838805070_variouswhites.thumb.jpg.091e44f8ac91e1d8092a6ee961e859e8.jpg

Yamato's off-white plastic will always look ivory next to the blueish-grey hue of Bandai's DX, but none of my Yammies show signs of yellowing.

My vintage 1:55, on the other hand...  :(

sadly yellowing.jpg

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1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Another example is that we make fun or get mad at NY. But yet, we always run to them if we miss getting PO's from the other stores.

Yup. I haven’t had any real issues but recently tried to cancel an order for store credit on the SSP that I should’ve received in Dec. I got bitch slapped and told my order will arrive in April. End of discussion. And I’m sure I’ll buy from them again.

(I assumed this would be the outcome but worth the try.)

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2 hours ago, tekering said:

Certainly not.

I didn't think so. For what they were/are, Yamato was/is the shizzle.:D

Now, I've always said the DX is probably overall better engineered, quite pretty, and probably decently sturdy( not in those exact words:p) so , I'm not knocking it, I'm sure it's an awesome toy. Just putting the Yammie in perspective. And i dare say they're still relevant. For variants alone. 

2 hours ago, tekering said:

My vintage 1:55, on the other hand...  :(

 

Ooooh, that's one of those aforementioned holy relics! :lol:

I miss my 1/55 VT. But it would probably be a real hot mess by now..^_^

Edited by Bolt
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3 hours ago, beatsing said:

My Yammie 1/48 from 20 years ago is still not yellow.  It was an engineering revolution for toys, like MP-01.  It was thing every serious collector was getting.  And no preorder madness

My 1/48 isn't very yellow.  It's still off white and I've had it for 20 years or whenever it came out

Hilarious.  Archaeologists saying "what is protoculture?"

Agreed! I still think the Yamato 1/48 has the best transformation for what you get in all three modes. It’s simple but fun and quick like the OG chunky but looks way better. Mine aren’t yellowed either. 

1 hour ago, Anasazi37 said:

As a professionally-trained archaeologist, I can tell what the standard explanation is when we don't know an object's purpose: ritual item. Imagine an archaeologist finding a Detolf filled with these things, carefully posed and displayed, with three copies of the same variant showing a transformation sequence. Looks like a shrine and valks are our deities. Given that they're machines and people are inside of them, whole books would be written about the deep symbolism of the fusion of humans and technology, plus some ramblings about how ancient myths and legends about man transforming into animals had been updated for our era.

Haha, I like this!

1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Aren't we all, right? Besides, no matter how we always get Bandai'd, we still buy their stuff. Why? Because no other company is making our fix. :rolleyes:

Another example is that we make fun or get mad at NY. But yet, we always run to them if we miss getting PO's from the other stores. ^_^

 

Lol!

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2 hours ago, Anasazi37 said:

As a professionally-trained archaeologist, I can tell what the standard explanation is when we don't know an object's purpose: ritual item. Imagine an archaeologist finding a Detolf filled with these things, carefully posed and displayed, with three copies of the same variant showing a transformation sequence. Looks like a shrine and valks are our deities. Given that they're machines and people are inside of them, whole books would be written about the deep symbolism of the fusion of humans and technology, plus some ramblings about how ancient myths and legends about man transforming into animals had been updated for our era.

Or maybe a fertility idol since there's a female image (Minmay) that's associated with all these crude objects that roughly resemble the human body form (battroid), a chicken(gerwalk), and an arrow(fighter).  Notice how the "Yamato" doll has an exaggerated large phallus.  We think these were for rituals for fertility.  

Edited by beatsing
typos
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7 hours ago, Anasazi37 said:

As a professionally-trained archaeologist, I can tell what the standard explanation is when we don't know an object's purpose: ritual item. Imagine an archaeologist finding a Detolf filled with these things, carefully posed and displayed, with three copies of the same variant showing a transformation sequence. Looks like a shrine and valks are our deities. Given that they're machines and people are inside of them, whole books would be written about the deep symbolism of the fusion of humans and technology, plus some ramblings about how ancient myths and legends about man transforming into animals had been updated for our era.

Absolutely fantastic my good man! That was exactly what I was looking for.:hi:

 

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6 hours ago, tekering said:

Certainly not.

1838805070_variouswhites.thumb.jpg.091e44f8ac91e1d8092a6ee961e859e8.jpg

Yamato's off-white plastic will always look ivory next to the blueish-grey hue of Bandai's DX, but none of my Yammies show signs of yellowing.

My vintage 1:55, on the other hand...  :(

sadly yellowing.jpg

@tekering If I remember correctly yours don't see UV light at all correct?

Edited by sqidd
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2 hours ago, sqidd said:

@tekering If I remember correctly yours don't see UV light at all correct?

Well, I have been known to make brief exceptions...

894481141_VermilionPark.thumb.jpg.92ad75503baff3f23a709eaa131ca0a7.jpg

...but yeah, I learned first-hand the damage the sun can do.  My vintage Valks suffered as badly as my vintage Stormtroopers did.  :vava:

Sunlight has been completely banished from my toy rooms for nearly two decades now.

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Anyone with digital calipers and a DX 1/48 hand want to give me a ball joint measurement (in millimeters)?  I used the calipers we have at the 3D printing lab here, but I'm not sure how accurate they are (the battery was dying, and there might be user error on my end).  I got between 5.1 and 5.15 millimeters, but the final product looks a little on the small side to my eye (I won't be able to tell for sure until I get home).  I'd like to do another print now, if this ball joint is in fact too small.

I'm thinking it is closer to 5.5mm around.  I know 6mm is too big, as I made one that size already.  This 5.15mm ball joint might work, but if I could get a second opinion on the measurement, that would be great.

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1 hour ago, tekering said:

Well, I have been known to make brief exceptions...

894481141_VermilionPark.thumb.jpg.92ad75503baff3f23a709eaa131ca0a7.jpg

...but yeah, I learned first-hand the damage the sun can do.  My vintage Valks suffered as badly as my vintage Stormtroopers did.  :vava:

Sunlight has been completely banished from my toy rooms for nearly two decades now.

I thought that was you that had told me about even low levels of UV being a thing. On your advice I have also banished all UV light from the toy room.:good:

It's not a "dark room" because of a little bit of light that reflects down the hallway and through the door. But it's really close.

 

Edited by sqidd
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23 hours ago, tekering said:

Well, I have been known to make brief exceptions...

...but yeah, I learned first-hand the damage the sun can do.  My vintage Valks suffered as badly as my vintage Stormtroopers did.  :vava:

Sunlight has been completely banished from my toy rooms for nearly two decades now.

Unless you are using a specific light that doesn't have it, if you are lighting your toys with white light, they are still getting hit with some UV, maybe even a lot.

Warm white LEDs have very little UV, but I see a lot of displays with very blue, cool white lighting which has more.  edit thanks to @Lolicon: LEDs have almost no UV if any. And if you're using halogen, those are a significant source of UV.

Edited by Pontus
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2 minutes ago, Bolt said:

Mmm. So you're saying many well lit display cabinets  are possibly coffins?

Oh yeah.  Fluorescent can also have a lot of UV depending on the phosphors used or if they are old and the phosphor is damaged.  Your best cheap option is warm white LEDs or fluorescent.  Your best expensive option is RGB (or more than 3 colors is best) LED lighting (usually the type that change colors) set to display white light by mixing.  But that can cause colors do display oddly, although it makes a great rainbow shadow effect.

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5 minutes ago, Pontus said:

Unless you are using a specific light that doesn't have it, if you are lighting your toys with white light, they are still getting hit with some UV, maybe even a lot.

Warm white LEDs have very little UV, but I see a lot of displays with very blue, cool white lighting which has more.  And if you're using halogen, those are a significant source of UV.

I switched out all of my LED's to warm white/240lm (they're darn near yellow compared to the white lights). Not because I had thought of UV output (I should have). But because the white was just way too much. I've got I think 40 total LED bulbs. With white lights my office was like the center of the sun!8)

This is what I went with. Any thoughts? I certainly don't want to cook my toys. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HA130R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

2 minutes ago, Bolt said:

Mmm. So you're saying many well lit display cabinets  are possibly coffins?

I think that's how Dr Manhattan was made.:D

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2 minutes ago, Pontus said:

Oh yeah.  Fluorescent can also have a lot of UV depending on the phosphors used or if they are old and the phosphor is damaged.  Your best cheap option is warm white LEDs or fluorescent.  Your best expensive option is RGB (or more than 3 colors is best) LED lighting (usually the type that change colors) set to display white light by mixing.  But that can cause colors do display oddly, although it makes a great rainbow shadow effect.

Interesting. My fixtures are for MR-11 bulbs. I just did a Google and didn't get anything in a MR-11 RGB. Can you maybe point me in the right direction? Thanks!

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