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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Shawn said:

I did not think they could start to yellow so soon...guess sunlight gets everything!

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c1054021074

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s1054025788

image.png.c4c6abf74f0dcf1e173c1ff1356d8799.png

image.png.d7d0b8c75aa04e31f1a483a935569583.png

 

Wow the yellowish. didn't know DX VF-1 series plastic material also turn yellowish that fast too. I just done similar thing to my 2ndhand aftermark purchase.

 

 

before

832464858_WhatsAppImage2022-06-08at7_20_59PM.jpeg.f7499d3206b4f62b090311565c69cc4a.jpeg

 

after 

 

17618a9d-2ec2-47c1-9a40-4c89505638f2.jpg.6a43dbdf142bbfdaa2663ae44abac52e.jpg99c319e3-e217-4cf9-878f-016f59efc880.jpg.abf8729f81cdf3e4dd2c4c0f8ed80931.jpg5903a5ce-4e87-4f16-a4b4-051bf7cae8d7.jpeg.a93998d8729e72ffb2c05cac8da8c276.jpeg

Edited by chriswoo
Posted
4 minutes ago, chriswoo said:

Wow the yellowish. didn't know DX VF-1 series plastic material also turn yellowish that fast too. I just done similar thing to my 2ndhand aftermark purchase.

 

 

Awesome, how did you get it so clean without fading the decals? Lower percentage of hydrogen peroxide?

Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, gabuyan said:

Awesome, how did you get it so clean without fading the decals? Lower percentage of hydrogen peroxide?

just use hair cream with 6% hy-drogen peroxide wll do quite nicely and it even restore the decal yellowish to white too.

Edited by chriswoo
Posted
31 minutes ago, chriswoo said:

just use hair cream with 6% hy-drogen peroxide wll do quite nicely and it even restore the decal yellowish to white too.

Any hair cream in particular? I have a few Valks that could use this treatment. 

Nicely done with your YF-30! 

Posted
23 minutes ago, chriswoo said:

just use hair cream with 6% hy-drogen peroxide wll do quite nicely and it even restore the decal yellowish to white too.

Nice thanks. How long did you leave your Valk in the UV? No disassembly done correct? Did you need to block the parts without the cream?

Posted
32 minutes ago, 505thAirborne said:

Any hair cream in particular? I have a few Valks that could use this treatment. 

Nicely done with your YF-30! 

i just use this solution cream it work very well.

 

L'Oreal Oxidant Cream

23 minutes ago, gabuyan said:

Nice thanks. How long did you leave your Valk in the UV? No disassembly done correct? Did you need to block the parts without the cream?

 

well it dependson the sun mostly around 4 to 6 hrs enough to turn most yellowish plastic to white however might repeat couple time to make it pure white.  it best to disasemble it part by part so the sun light can cover those hidden yellow part and also might require removing all those metal parts and screws as it will corroded/rusted overtime.

 

 

Posted
15 hours ago, Shawn said:

I did not think they could start to yellow so soon...guess sunlight gets everything!

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c1054021074

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s1054025788

image.png.c4c6abf74f0dcf1e173c1ff1356d8799.png

image.png.d7d0b8c75aa04e31f1a483a935569583.png

 

That is just straight-up bonkers, how do you even display a toy to get that specific distribution of yellowing?  That thing must have been sitting on a windowsill for a couple years.

And I thought Bandai actually had plastic tinting techniques to specifically avoid this sort of thing.

Posted
12 minutes ago, Chronocidal said:

That is just straight-up bonkers, how do you even display a toy to get that specific distribution of yellowing? 

Maybe different plastics? Some yellow faster than others?

Posted
On 6/9/2022 at 1:14 PM, chriswoo said:

i just use this solution cream it work very well.

 

L'Oreal Oxidant Cream

 

well it dependson the sun mostly around 4 to 6 hrs enough to turn most yellowish plastic to white however might repeat couple time to make it pure white.  it best to disasemble it part by part so the sun light can cover those hidden yellow part and also might require removing all those metal parts and screws as it will corroded/rusted overtime.

 

 

If you offered a service to turn yellowed plastic toys back to white again, I'd pay you to work on mine!

Posted
2 hours ago, ArchieNov said:

If you offered a service to turn yellowed plastic toys back to white again, I'd pay you to work on mine!

haha i think the post charge going to be expensive. it more worth to venture try it out your self since quite easy and waiting time for the best result.

Posted
On 6/8/2022 at 10:14 PM, chriswoo said:

i just use this solution cream it work very well.

 

L'Oreal Oxidant Cream

 

well it dependson the sun mostly around 4 to 6 hrs enough to turn most yellowish plastic to white however might repeat couple time to make it pure white.  it best to disasemble it part by part so the sun light can cover those hidden yellow part and also might require removing all those metal parts and screws as it will corroded/rusted overtime.

Thanks for sharing @chriswoo. :hi:

Do you only apply it to the yellowed parts? Do I need to mask areas that need no application? Say for example, the black portion of the wing besides the white part? Thanks.

Posted
On 6/9/2022 at 1:14 PM, chriswoo said:

well it dependson the sun mostly around 4 to 6 hrs enough to turn most yellowish plastic to white however might repeat couple time to make it pure white.  it best to disasemble it part by part so the sun light can cover those hidden yellow part and also might require removing all those metal parts and screws as it will corroded/rusted overtime.

 

 

Many thanks! I don't have much direct sunlight in my apartment so I built a uv light box. Hope it goes well.

Posted
6 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Thanks for sharing @chriswoo. :hi:

Do you only apply it to the yellowed parts? Do I need to mask areas that need no application? Say for example, the black portion of the wing besides the white part? Thanks.

So far I apply to all the plastic and seal off all the screw and metal parts. Sometime we might not able to tell it apart which part has slightly yellowish especially those color parts and decal. It restore them back to their pristine color as well.

Posted
3 hours ago, gabuyan said:

Many thanks! I don't have much direct sunlight in my apartment so I built a uv light box. Hope it goes well.

Ah I see yeah I also use the UV light box however I found it very weak and took twice maybe triple longer  durations to cure it.

Posted
1 minute ago, chriswoo said:

Ah I see yeah I also use the UV light box however I found it very weak and took twice maybe triple longer  durations to cure it.

I see. I'll have to see if there's any way to use direct sunlight where I am then, maybe in the corridor.

Can you share any reference to disassembling the Valk? Or do you have to try to locate where the hidden screws are each time?

Posted
1 minute ago, gabuyan said:

I see. I'll have to see if there's any way to use direct sunlight where I am then, maybe in the corridor.

Can you share any reference to disassembling the Valk? Or do you have to try to locate where the hidden screws are each time?

Well so far the only information dissembling a VF is on the youtupe but each VF model has different mostly Bandai VF easier to access the screws.  Mostly need to study the plane before dissembling it. Anyhow   there is 2 ways to do it, either 1 is to find all take off screws or just plug in blue tack covering them will prevent them for rusting.  I mostly use the 2nd method for Arcadia VF as they are pain in the butt to dissemble without dmg it parts.

Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

C'mon Bandai, this needs to happen -- NOW! ;) 

dx_vf-1a_hikaru_no3ljm_ec71933f.jpg.9a1745441342deb8b8a03c34fd1d1e97.jpg

This is exactly how I envisioned it to be! Nicely done sir.😀

Edited by Angesdad
Posted

That yellowed DX VF-1 is confusing because it was transformed after being left on display in fighter mode in front of a window. If you imagine it in fighter mode, all the yellowing makes sense: outsides of the legs, none on the arms, chest and back, none on the heat shield. He probably transformed it back to put it in the box to ship it to someone else and then took the pics. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Since that new world wide agreement does not include SDFM, DYRL or Macross Plus I'm wondering if Bandai is focusing on the shows and movies that are included to see how that goes. To be honest I only have so much geek budget to go around and I've been relieved that there wasn't a DX Valk that I wanted for a while. But I would still like Max & Miria VF-1Js and a TV Kaki at some point.

Posted
10 hours ago, Paco Grande said:

Since that new world wide agreement does not include SDFM, DYRL or Macross Plus I'm wondering if Bandai is focusing on the shows and movies that are included to see how that goes. To be honest I only have so much geek budget to go around and I've been relieved that there wasn't a DX Valk that I wanted for a while. But I would still like Max & Miria VF-1Js and a TV Kaki at some point.

Macross Plus is not part of the Macross shows limited by the HG\BW agreement...so, in theory, DX VFs from Macross Plus could be a part of a Bandai WWM release....

Only SDFM and DYRL currently seem to be restricted from getting WWM releases...

Posted (edited)

Hi All,

I sold all my Macross toys over a decade ago.  But. . . I'm suddenly feeling the itch to have a dx chogokin Roy and/or Hikaru on my desk.  Which may expand later.

Can someone bring me up to speed on a couple of questions. . .

Was it ever really possible for someone to get these at MSRP from places like HLJ?  Or was stock so limited that third parties and mark-ups were the norm from the get-go.

Is there no other recourse (if I want new vs used) than spending $350-$500 per valkyrie when looking for the VF-1J Hikaru or VF-1S Roy or Hikaru?  😬

Thanks!

--H

Edit:  I see that the best way to get the Hikaru VF-1J would be to buy the re-release GBP armor bundle.

Edited by Hurin
Posted
59 minutes ago, Hurin said:

Hi All,

I sold all my Macross toys over a decade ago.  But. . . I'm suddenly feeling the itch to have a dx chogokin Roy and/or Hikaru on my desk.  Which may expand later.

Can someone bring me up to speed on a couple of questions. . .

Was it ever really possible for someone to get these at MSRP from places like HLJ?  Or was stock so limited that third parties and mark-ups were the norm from the get-go.

Is there no other recourse (if I want new vs used) than spending $350-$500 per valkyrie when looking for the VF-1J Hikaru or VF-1S Roy or Hikaru?  😬

Thanks!

--H

Edit:  I see that the best way to get the Hikaru VF-1J would be to buy the re-release GBP armor bundle.

First, I think I used to be a super irritating dick toward you so I apologize. Second, many of us did the midnight madness and were lucky enough to score them at MSRP but even with that effort, it was super hard and most had to resort to some sort of mark-up after the first release (Hikaru's 1J) was good so everyone was ready to jump on board. 

You can play the long game and hope they release a Focker DYRL version since they were very clear that the one they sold so far is a TV version. That might give you a chance to grab one at MSRP during preorder madness. 

Posted
1 hour ago, jenius said:

First, I think I used to be a super irritating dick toward you so I apologize.

No worries!  Apologies for all my past sins as well!  Thanks for the info on the history of these beauties!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Just confirming:  All VF-1S Hikaru DYRL have the reversed 001 (to 100) on certain elements.  And there has been no fix offered (like, perhaps Bandai would send out revised parts we could install?. . . I know, dare to dream!).

Edit:  Oh, I see that Bandai (amazingly) doubled-down and did the same thing on DYRL Kakizaki.  And decals are provided for those who don't like it.  Sorry to broach a probably sore subject.  :(

Edited by Hurin
Posted
9 hours ago, Hurin said:

Just confirming:  All VF-1S Hikaru DYRL have the reversed 001 (to 100) on certain elements.  And there has been no fix offered (like, perhaps Bandai would send out revised parts we could install?. . . I know, dare to dream!).

Edit:  Oh, I see that Bandai (amazingly) doubled-down and did the same thing on DYRL Kakizaki.  And decals are provided for those who don't like it.  Sorry to broach a probably sore subject.  :(

It's not so much a sore subject as it is pants-on-head stupid for them to double down on their mistake as if it's on purpose.

I still want someone to write their corporate logo backwards on the back side of their main corporate HQ and see how they respond.

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