Jasonc Posted February 20, 2018 Author Posted February 20, 2018 So, just a quick update. I have to order more rubber for the molds, and everything is taking slightly longer to set, now that it's been colder. I have placed the order for the extra rubber, and it will come in beginning of next week, which is perfect since I'll be in Japan. I have 5 sets done, and just need to recast the lance attachment pieces. I should have these out soon. I have 2 or 3 paid orders already, and as I said, I may only be making 5 of these. If you want one, but haven't inquired or paid, shoot me a pm. Quote
Jasonc Posted March 7, 2018 Author Posted March 7, 2018 Last batch of rubber for the molds has arrived today, and that means that the last couple parts to recast can begin this weekend, as long as the molds are up to par. The kits sold should be going out next week, and I hope to have a diagram or copy of instructions to put up soon after. Quote
william02 Posted March 9, 2018 Posted March 9, 2018 On 26/12/2017 at 6:59 PM, Jasonc said: I will. I'll try to do it during the week. I've spent the better part of 4 months tweaking the angles and measurements of the front head glass just to get it where it is now. I'm quite happy to say that it now fits and works as it should. Dome may ask why I'm recasting it, instead of just putting it up on Shapeways. Well for one, you can never get this clarity in any shapeways print work. This allows me to continually recast them and not have to spend a fortune getting any sort of frosted xtreme detail parts made. Plus, FXD is extremely brittle. The idea is to have you guys not have to buy anything from shapeways, with the exception of 1 part that I simply cannot recast due to the complex design. In any case, this is an actual recast part, and you can see how clear it is. I'm very happy with this. Wow, what kind of resin are you using? Quote
Jasonc Posted March 9, 2018 Author Posted March 9, 2018 1 hour ago, william02 said: Wow, what kind of resin are you using? It's is Alumilite clear resin. It's a little difficult to get it super clear. The process starts by "baking" the mold in about 200 degree oven temp for an hour to heat the rubber so that the clear resin can run through the mold easy and get rid of bubbles. Then once the resin is mixed, it's slowly poured in the hot hold and then put in a pressure tank and cures for 2 eays. Quote
Jasonc Posted March 18, 2018 Author Posted March 18, 2018 Alright guys, a couple sets are done, and I'm testing some of the connectors to them, to make sure they work as I intended. I'll be sending out a few orders this week, as they are now ready to go. I will be attaching a copy of the Frameout directions, as they are exactly the same for putting it together, just with my designed version. I will have a short instruction here soon with the extra parts to put together, and will get a list of the armor and fast pack parts you'll need to make the kit complete. Quote
Jasonc Posted April 3, 2018 Author Posted April 3, 2018 Boxes should be in this week to send them out. Hoping tomorrow. Got all your addresses. I was able to make more kits with some remaining trial size Task 2 resin I had, and was able to make about 10 kits total. It's more than I expected, but there are more available. Quote
Xigfrid Posted April 4, 2018 Posted April 4, 2018 That’s a great kit for all any YF-25 that have been naked for too long. I think my package shall arrive soon, I will post pictures Quote
Jasonc Posted May 11, 2018 Author Posted May 11, 2018 OK, I will be putting these up for sale in another thread, but for those of you who have already purchased them, here are the origin instructions. The kit is put together the same way basically. Aside from slight aesthetic designs being redone, I did change the backpack hinge and there are steel metal pins that fit and need to be cut on the part of the lance that connects to the backpack. I have also added two 2mm magnets that can be added to the backpack connector. They are optional to help secure the lance in fighter a little better, but aren't necessary. The sect should stay secure quite well without it. As I've mentioned earlier, there is also an optional knee connector I created that IMO, works better than the one that was designed originally. The link is in one of my previous comments here, but I have also sent a version just like the original if you want to keep that original. In any case, here's the original instructions. Quote
valhary Posted May 11, 2018 Posted May 11, 2018 I have the digital version believe with better resolution Quote
Jasonc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Posted May 12, 2018 Much, much better. I'm going to try to see if I can make some directions with the new parts, but it's fairly easy to do them. I started work on this today, as I caught a bit of a nasty cold this week, and had to call in the last two days. I'm hoping to have this part done over the weekend, but I seriously doubt I'll get it done. Too many things to do, but here's the first stages with the newer designed parts... Quote
Xigfrid Posted May 12, 2018 Posted May 12, 2018 Thank you both for the instructions, I will try to get some time to assemble and paint it but I have been very busy lately with 3D modeling. Quote
Jasonc Posted August 4, 2018 Author Posted August 4, 2018 So, it has been awhile, but I started putting together the kit I designed, and while I've already put up pics of the head, the lance is now to a point where I can put up pics of the work. Enjoy. Sorry if it's a big pic. I'm doing this from my cell phone. I just need to put the armor connector piece, and paint in some details, and it's all done. I've also got a chrome tint on the parts that will be on the armor. Quote
valhary Posted August 7, 2018 Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) finally I received my kit complete now need a tutorial for unassembled the head Edited August 7, 2018 by valhary Quote
Jasonc Posted August 7, 2018 Author Posted August 7, 2018 The head needs to have the current glass popped off. Mine luckily came off easily. It takes some work. I think the official instructions on the page may explain how to take it off. Quote
Jasonc Posted August 7, 2018 Author Posted August 7, 2018 1 hour ago, Xigfrid said: That chrome is looking sharp ! Thanks. That's a lot of light sanding, with primer, thinned out gloss black, and thinned out high metal chrome paint. I have one bottle of it left, and it's painfully hard to find locally. Nevertheless, I'm hoping to have more done tonight on the lance. I'm going to put some gold paint on some trim, and get the attachment piece on, if I can find my dremel for the steel prongs for magnets. Quote
Jasonc Posted August 20, 2018 Author Posted August 20, 2018 Ok, so this is a bit of a work through with an experimental piece that actually came out way better than I had planned. Because I have Lways been a little iffy on a plastic handle being attached to the lance, I thought, "how can I put a solid piece of material on its place, and be able to carve out the part for the hand?" Well, I did some mods to the lance base, and made a 3mm diameter hole down it. Here is what it looks like So, it looks very rough, and needs a lot of paint and sanding to fill in the sponge like material. But not now. In my search, I looked for 3mm pins, pipe, something that is strong, but would be straight and do what is required. That's when I found the wood pieces I put my painted parts on. They're a little wider, but they're rough so what better way to fix them, then to sand them down. Now, it needs to be borrowed out a bit where that triangular piece on the printed part is, and about halfway down. I used an exact, the a file that is the perfect width. So this wood is actually quite strong and durable. Once everything lined up and the wood was slim enough to slide all the way in, here you go. Now the full length of the lance handle happens to be 105mm, so I now not the tip about 106cm, and sand it til it's just right. I used crazy glue to put that little triangle piece down. Crazy glue is great on two porous materials such as this 3d material (which is also very sturdy and durable) and wood. From this point, I must've used this grey primer and sanded about 6 times before it became smooth. After that, I put it together with some fine touches, and here she is. Hope you guys like it. Quote
Jasonc Posted August 26, 2018 Author Posted August 26, 2018 So, more updates, and it mostly has to do with painting and decal applications. I've pulled the YF-25 apart, and have painted grey parts grey, and buffed out tampons pieces that dont belong. The valk itself is about done, but I had a misstep with the right wing white trim. Theres no correcting it, so once the clear coat dries tomorrow, it's off to do it again. I will also do the under wing decals tomorrow, which are easy enough, but there are these. The pictures of the paladin logo are rub on transfer decals. They're great because they leave no residue, but you only get one chance to do them right. Anyways, I learned after trial that it's best to get a piece of tape over it once you lock it in position,and use a q--tip to rub on top of the tape, followed by a light scratching with your nail. These pieces are now done. She's getting there. Just hope before SDC. Quote
Xigfrid Posted August 26, 2018 Posted August 26, 2018 They are looking great! I am torn between finding a cheap armor set or making a 3D model for the missing parts Quote
Jasonc Posted August 26, 2018 Author Posted August 26, 2018 6 hours ago, Xigfrid said: They are looking great! I am torn between finding a cheap armor set or making a 3D model for the missing parts It's better to buy them. You'll get full detail, and even in the parts the newer release had from Frameout, they weren't well detailed. You can find them fairly inexpensive on Mandarake last I checked. Quote
wmkjr Posted August 26, 2018 Posted August 26, 2018 Jason, how did you remove the tampo? Fine sandpaper or solvents? Quote
Jasonc Posted August 26, 2018 Author Posted August 26, 2018 6 minutes ago, wmkjr said: Jason, how did you remove the tampo? Fine sandpaper or solvents? I used liquid buffer and 800 grit sandpaper. Wet sandpaper first, then the liquid buffer to make it shiny again. I still put my clear top coat over, but once totally painted, it will be satin finish top coat. Quote
Jasonc Posted August 27, 2018 Author Posted August 27, 2018 And this little piece is the backpack connector. The 2mmx1mm round magnets there are to help with securing the lance to it, but they are not strong enough to really do a suitable job. However, the design of the new piece, with the rail guides that protrude is. Between the two, it will hold upside down in fighter mode. For the 9f you who got this kit from me, you may want to make sure that when testing the lance connector (the top piece on the lance) that it is snug but something you don't have to peel off. My first attempt at this had it way too tight, and it took too much work to get it out. If you need to, use a 400 grit sand paper in between the columns where the lance connection will slide in, an lightly sand until a desired thickness is obtained. Also take 8nto account paint. These will be chromed and sealed on Tuesday. True test Wednesday. Quote
Jasonc Posted September 1, 2018 Author Posted September 1, 2018 Still working on this, but I have so much crap to do this weekend, I have to clear up all my mess, so I should have an update on Monday. But so far, the parts for the back connector are done, sealed, and I'll be making the lance now work on the 25 in fighter. I have everything chromed out now as well, and sealed, and I just need to now detail each part so that they can look ready for action. The large wing armors are the most work, as I have to color match orange again, patch up thrust parts that I've removed, and all that. Oh, and that knee attachment. I'm going to use the original. I was able to build it up to where I'm happy with the original part, and recasted it in a mineral resin, which makes it similar to a metalic aluminum. Not a popular resin as it's 5:1 ratio by weight, but it's hard as hell, with .0006 shrinkage, so it's basically the exact same as what I set. Hmmmm, so much work to do, and I'm trying to finish this by SDC. May not happen. Pics either Sunday night or Monday. Quote
valhary Posted August 16, 2019 Posted August 16, 2019 I decided to remake in 3d print was much more easier starting from Jasonc parts (thanks again man!!!) still working in the head but I think with this system can get better quality Quote
Jasonc Posted September 27, 2019 Author Posted September 27, 2019 (edited) Since you're remaking these parts, I definitely want a set. I wasn't big on the two part lance, so is this available? The only thing though, if it is one piece, it must be a bit hard to paint the connector piece with the silver and orange, no? Edited September 27, 2019 by Jasonc Quote
valhary Posted September 27, 2019 Posted September 27, 2019 (edited) Let me make the resin test (still working in the head) and once will be ready you can decide if want the complete kit or choose specific only the parts that you need Edited September 27, 2019 by valhary Quote
Chronocidal Posted September 27, 2019 Posted September 27, 2019 If that lance is one large piece, how sturdy is the material at the thinnest part of the handle? That looks like the weight of the part may be enough to just snap it, unless there is some sort of stronger internal reinforcement. Quote
valhary Posted September 30, 2019 Posted September 30, 2019 In fact the lance was made in parts as soon as I can will post some pics to clarify Quote
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