Decals library

[Convectuoso]

Is there a decals library on this site?

If not, I'd like to start one, where anyone can submit decal scans of unbuilt models they have, so they can be used as backup by any forum user who damages, loses their decals or wants to repaint or customize a model kit or toy.

[Gabe Q]

This is the closest thing we have. Lots of decal scans in there.

 

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/models/_models_plastic.htm

[Convectuoso]

Seems like it hasn't been updated in a long time. How can we contribute to this section? 

[tekering]

33 minutes ago, Gabe Q said:

This is the closest thing we have. Lots of decal scans in there.

Actually, there are very few high-resolution scans available there, and there's no mechanism for users to upload them, either.  

I think this is a great idea, and could be a very valuable resource, provided we follow a few ground rules:

1. Scans must be at least 300dpi.  Anything smaller is of little use to anybody.
2. Scans must be clearly labeled in message text, so they're easy to locate with the search function.
3. Whenever possible, a picture of the box should be included for ease of identification.

I'll start by offering what little I have to share:

ARII 1:100 VF-1J Valkyrie Fighter (original release)

 

ARII 1:100 Regult Tactical Scout Type (original release)

 

Hasegawa 1:4000 SDF-1 Macross w/Prometheus and Daedalus

If we follow this format, I see great potential here.  

[Convectuoso]

Great contributions, @tekering

I'll start scanning mine tomorrow 

[Convectuoso]

Bandai 1:144 Queadluun-Rau

[kajnrig]

Bandai 1/72 SV-262 Draken III Roid Deculture Ver.

Unfortunately, it's a flawed scan because the decal sheet got damaged on the way to me. You can easily see where the sheet has been creased.  I originally scanned it at 600dpi and downscaled it to half size. If anyone wants the original 600dpi png (~40mb file size), let me know.

I might try to clean up the image. If I do, I'll post an update.

EDIT:

Bad scan, the top got cut off. Bah. Be right back.

EDIT 2:

There we go.

 

Edited November 11, 2017 by kajnrig

[kajnrig]

While I'm cleaning out the closet, would people like scans of the sticker sheets? I'd been meaning to scan some of the Mecha Colle kits' sticker sheets but never got around to it. Since the markings sometime extend beyond what you actually use, I was thinking of transferring them to a contrasting background and scanning the result. Yay/nay?

[Sanity is Optional]

I guess it's time to dig out the 1200DPI scanner, anyone interested in the Hasegawa -31a decal sheet? Other than that it's just Bandai Valks and Gundam stuff.

[kajnrig]

35 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

I guess it's time to dig out the 1200DPI scanner, anyone interested in the Hasegawa -31a decal sheet? Other than that it's just Bandai Valks and Gundam stuff.

I'd also be able to provide -31A decals, though it seems my scanner bed is dirtier than I'd like. Lots of little bits and pieces everywhere, even after cleaning it off with a microfiber towel.

[kajnrig]

Tomytec VF-31A

(contact me for 600dpi version)

[kajnrig]

Last one for tonight. Sticker sheet, 300ppi. Best to contact me for the 600ppi (4mb) file so you can make out the cut lines, or even better, the 2400ppi (53mb) one. I'll transfer the individual stickers to a different backing and try to make raster files, or at least better-quality, full-color (non-dotted) pngs from scratch.

Bandai Mecha Colle VF-171 Nightmare Plus

[Convectuoso]

4 hours ago, Sanity is Optional said:

I guess it's time to dig out the 1200DPI scanner, anyone interested in the Hasegawa -31a decal sheet? Other than that it's just Bandai Valks and Gundam stuff.

Anything you have is welcome here. The idea is to collect as many decal / sticker sheets as possible 

 

Great contributions, @kajnrig

Edited November 11, 2017 by Convectuoso

[kajnrig]

Converting that VF-171 sticker sheet into a set of decals. First set of tests, decals 15-18

I'd love to be able to raster-ize these instead of having to resort to fixed pixel count images. Anyway, these are at 600ppi and can be printed out at 600dpi. Resize it -50%, change the ppi to 300, and you should be able to print it out at the correct scale at 300dpi. (If I'm getting that conversion wrong, let me know, please.)

The black borders are there to mimic the borders of the clear parts of the stickers, to make DIY decals easier to cut out. I'd imagine you don't really need to follow them, just make sure not to separate the gray pattern thingies from the white.

Edited November 12, 2017 by kajnrig

[kajnrig]

Done converting. I even managed to correct the mirrored lettering on some of the "NUNS" logos, and added detail to the emblems lost on the original stickers.

I'll have to get some white decal paper, and a new inkjet/laser printer as well since the AIO I'm using to scan images can't print... :/ Then it's time to test these out, and if the results are good, I'll move onto tackling something more complex and relevant. I'd still like to learn how to make these using vector graphics instead (I mistakenly said "raster" images last post) so as to avoid aliasing and so I can resize stuff like the logos and emblems without losing any details.

Still, this was fun.

(Image at 1200ppi/dpi, reduce it as necessary to suit your printer.)

Edited November 16, 2017 by kajnrig

[Convectuoso]

Not from a model kit, but here are some decals from Yamato's DYRL VF-1S Roy Focker with Super & Strike Parts

[pengbuzz]

Great start so far!

[Lolicon]

Uploading some scans at the request of some fellow forum members.

Scan of the 1/60 Yamato super/strike parts sticker sheet. Removed the surrounding sticker film from around the skulls so that when printed, it will have the proper sized circles. It had the unfortunate side effect of pulling some of the colored arrows off too. I just use a pair of decal scissors to carefully trim out the circles.

 

Scan of the Evolution Toy VF-2SS sticker sheet.

 

My sloppily put together decal sheet scaled down to HMR size that I used for my HMR VF-2SS. If you're thinking that's way more decals than I'll ever need, then you are absolutely correct. It's good to print extras in case of screw ups, and there's at least one or two more VF-2SS's I'll work on before all is done, so better to have them ready then have to print, seal, and dry another decal sheet later. It all fits on a single 8x11 decal sheet.

 

For my HMR VF-2SS I also bummed a couple of decals off an old Hasegawa decal sheet. For example, the triangular air intake warnings are perfectly sized for HMR, and I used the UN SPACY text on the SAP. I also used a lot of third party decals, which can be purchased at any hobby shop.

 

EDIT: Throwing in a Yamato VF-1J sticker scan, as I did use a couple from here on the VF-2SS (scaled down, of course.)

Edited June 6, 2018 by Lolicon

[sumyumgoy]

 Thanks @Lolicon!

[Convectuoso]

Great contributions, @Lolicon

[valhary]

For the 1/55 I think is of the last reissue of Bandai with a little more detail than original versions

[Slave IV]

On June 6, 2018 at 10:24 AM, Lolicon said:

Uploading some scans at the request of some fellow forum members.

Scan of the 1/60 Yamato super/strike parts sticker sheet. Removed the surrounding sticker film from around the skulls so that when printed, it will have the proper sized circles. It had the unfortunate side effect of pulling some of the colored arrows off too. I just use a pair of decal scissors to carefully trim out the circles.

 

Scan of the Evolution Toy VF-2SS sticker sheet.

 

My sloppily put together decal sheet scaled down to HMR size that I used for my HMR VF-2SS. If you're thinking that's way more decals than I'll ever need, then you are absolutely correct. It's good to print extras in case of screw ups, and there's at least one or two more VF-2SS's I'll work on before all is done, so better to have them ready then have to print, seal, and dry another decal sheet later. It all fits on a single 8x11 decal sheet.

 

For my HMR VF-2SS I also bummed a couple of decals off an old Hasegawa decal sheet. For example, the triangular air intake warnings are perfectly sized for HMR, and I used the UN SPACY text on the SAP. I also used a lot of third party decals, which can be purchased at any hobby shop.

 

EDIT: Throwing in a Yamato VF-1J sticker scan, as I did use a couple from here on the VF-2SS (scaled down, of course.)

Thanks for posting and pointing this thread out to me!

Any chance you or someone here has scans for the 1/60 VF-4G?

Thank you!

[sumyumgoy]

Here you go, hope it is a good enough copy.  I'm still learning how to clean up my scans so I haven't messed with it yet.  If anyone knows any tutorials I'd appreciate it!

Spoiler

 

[Convectuoso]

Thanks for sharing, @sumyumgoy

Does anyone have the decal sheet for Wave's VF-0S Battroid model kit? 

[Slave IV]

On 6/9/2018 at 8:46 PM, sumyumgoy said:

Here you go, hope it is a good enough copy.  I'm still learning how to clean up my scans so I haven't messed with it yet.  If anyone knows any tutorials I'd appreciate it!

  Hide contents

 

Thanks! I didn't realize the skull image was separate from the black background for the vertical stabilizers...NBD, I can adjust the file before I print but that was an odd choice.

Thanks again!

[sumyumgoy]

18 minutes ago, Slave IV said:

Thanks! I didn't realize the skull image was separate from the black background for the vertical stabilizers...NBD, I can adjust the file before I print but that was an odd choice.

Thanks again!

Sure thing, please share the finished product, would love to see how it comes out.  Trying to get my feet wet with printing my own decals 

[Slave IV]

24 minutes ago, sumyumgoy said:

Sure thing, please share the finished product, would love to see how it comes out.  Trying to get my feet wet with printing my own decals 

Here is the VF-4G file with skulls added to a pair of the stabilizers.

I just ordered some white decal paper so hopefully will get some skulls and kites added to my Valks soon!

[sumyumgoy]

 

3 hours ago, Slave IV said:

I just ordered some white decal paper so hopefully will get some skulls and kites added to my Valks soon!

Sweet, looking forward to it!

[sumyumgoy]

Found these scans from the following thread:

Spoiler

 

[sumyumgoy]

Here are the scans for the 1/100 Armored Factory in 600 dpi.  I also scanned it in 1200 if anybody wants.

Question, how do you guys usually scale it back down to actual size again?  Is it trial and error?

Spoiler

 

 

Edited June 15, 2018 by sumyumgoy

[kajnrig]

2 hours ago, sumyumgoy said:

Here are the scans for the 1/100 Armored Factory in 600 dpi.  I also scanned it in 1200 if anybody wants.

Question, how do you guys usually scale it back down to actual size again?  Is it trial and error?

tl;dr - Get your image DPI to match your printer DPI.

DPI and PPI are different things. DPI is an analog measurement, literally how many dots a printer can lay down over an inch. PPI, which is what scanners really mean when they say DPI, is sort of an arbitrary conversion ratio. It helps programs scale an image to a ruler or other measuring tool (like GIMP or Photoshop), or scanners determine how much time to spend scanning a document, etc.

If the DPI of your printer matches the PPI of your image, then each dot will be exactly one pixel of your image (a 1:1 ratio). If the DPI of your printer is 600 and your image PPI is 1200, you'll have to manually scale down your image to half its resolution and PPI (to get that 1:1 ratio) or adjust the print settings. The below image shows GIMP's print settings where you can adjust the image on the paper to print at the correct size.

Edited June 15, 2018 by kajnrig

[sumyumgoy]

3 hours ago, kajnrig said:

tl;dr - Get your image DPI to match your printer DPI.

DPI and PPI are different things. DPI is an analog measurement, literally how many dots a printer can lay down over an inch. PPI, which is what scanners really mean when they say DPI, is sort of an arbitrary conversion ratio. It helps programs scale an image to a ruler or other measuring tool (like GIMP or Photoshop), or scanners determine how much time to spend scanning a document, etc.

If the DPI of your printer matches the PPI of your image, then each dot will be exactly one pixel of your image (a 1:1 ratio). If the DPI of your printer is 600 and your image PPI is 1200, you'll have to manually scale down your image to half its resolution and PPI (to get that 1:1 ratio) or adjust the print settings. The below image shows GIMP's print settings where you can adjust the image on the paper to print at the correct size.

Thanks!  I just tried it and it worked out perfectly.  Appreciate the help!

[Slave IV]

 

So, I suck at cutting circles but Super Packs look better with Skulls and Kites. The VF-4G Skull came out well. I need to darken the print settings next time but I'm happy for now. Thanks for all the decal files @Lolicon & @sumyumgoy!

 

[kajnrig]

3 minutes ago, Slave IV said:

So, I suck at cutting circles but Super Packs look better with Skulls and Kites. The VF-4G Skull came out well. I need to darken the print settings next time but I'm happy for now. Thanks for all the decal files @Lolicon & @sumyumgoy!

Indeed they do. Nice clean cutting, too (at least from this distance lol).

Did you just print the decal image? Or did you try/have to clean up the image first in Photoshop/etc.? I'm considering going through all of the scans here and making "clean" versions of them, but I don't know if it would be worth the effort if you can get basically the same quality just by printing the scanned image.

[Slave IV]

1 minute ago, kajnrig said:

Indeed they do. Nice clean cutting, too (at least from this distance lol).

Did you just print the decal image? Or did you try/have to clean up the image first in Photoshop/etc.? I'm considering going through all of the scans here and making "clean" versions of them, but I don't know if it would be worth the effort if you can get basically the same quality just by printing the scanned image.

Thanks! I only edited a bit by adding the skulls to the black stabilizer decals as I mentioned a few posts back and then put all the images I wanted on one sheet but I made no changes to the images themselves, just printed as they came. I definitely need to set the printer to print darker next time and not cut circles at 3am. But I probably won't ever fix these ones I already did because, yeah, they look fine from any distance beyond a foot, which is where they will be seen from 99% of the time.