vf-31 siegfried WIP: Alternate Weapons Pods for VF-31

[Kelsain]

Aw dang. Yeah, it might be time to buy a resin tank for my wife's Form2 then. I've got a few things that I'd like to print for my currently shelved Space Marine, but they were expensive before! 

[Xigfrid]

with 30° tilt

 

[Sanity is Optional]

Looking good. I wonder how much it'd break the bank to print it out in professional plastic to get all those details.

[Xigfrid]

Approx 80$ with shapeways, 33$ printed by European competitor. I can probably negotiate a lower rate if I got a larger order, and that would be great too if I can ship the large order directly to the USA from the manufacturer. 

 

[Mommar]

Wtf is up with shapeways prices?  I thought 3D printing was supposed to get cheaper and better.  Not just way more expensive.

[Xigfrid]

I remember when professional plastic was available 2 years during the beta test it was 1$ more expensive than the standard plastic, with the promise that the HP plastic would be, later, half the price of WSF. 

Well, I guess this is the right time for competitors to enter the market developed by shapeways. 

Edited November 15, 2018 by Xigfrid

[Sanity is Optional]

Between the cost, and the lead-time to get something printed and shipped for design checking, I really am tempted to just buy myself a little resin printer to test out designs.

Maybe something like this:

 

[Chronocidal]

I've never liked the thought of dealing with the liquid printing process, just from the messier cleanup and material situation.  But on the other hand, you also don't get the same sorts of problems of shifting platforms and print heads.

I've had an UP!2 for a few years now, and it does decently, but I'm tempted to consider a newer/bigger/more advanced and enclosed printer in the future.  The thing that gets me about the entire process is watching something big print, and then realizing midway through that the whole thing is going to pot, with no way to stop it or fix the issue.

[zzgundam010]

3 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

Approx 80$ with shapeways, 33$ printed by European competitor. I can probably negotiate a lower rate if I got a larger order, and that would be great too if I can ship the large order directly to the USA from the manufacturer. 

 

Put me down for one.

[Xigfrid]

9 hours ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Between the cost, and the lead-time to get something printed and shipped for design checking, I really am tempted to just buy myself a little resin printer to test out designs.

That's something I have considered 1-2 ears ago, a Form2 would have been 5K investment self-reimbursed if I were doing printing service on web platform like "3DHubs".

I couldn't buy it because I can't have a resin factory at home, it really stinks and the vapors are toxic, so that was a categoric no considering my kids. Now this is even more difficult because 3DHubs works with "professionals" third parties only now.

I have heard that there are resin printers that have sealed cartridges so that can be a solution. There are also desktop SLS printers now, and that's exiting if the printers are clean from nylon powder leaks. There is probably a solution for each individual, but don't take the shortcut to buy the cheapest one, you won't be satisfied by it for sure!

[no3Ljm]

Hey guys. So what's the difference now between the regular plastic that Shapeways use and the professional plastic? Is professional plastic more 'perfect' looking?

Anyways, I want to get one for my extra VF-31A. Is there a way to mount the Gunpod in fighter mode just in case? Thanks!

 

[Sanity is Optional]

9 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

That's something I have considered 1-2 ears ago, a Form2 would have been 5K investment self-reimbursed if I were doing printing service on web platform like "3DHubs".

 I couldn't buy it because I can't have a resin factory at home, it really stinks and the vapors are toxic, so that was a categoric no considering my kids. Now this is even more difficult because 3DHubs works with "professionals" third parties only now.

 I have heard that there are resin printers that have sealed cartridges so that can be a solution. There are also desktop SLS printers now, and that's exiting if the printers are clean from nylon powder leaks. There is probably a solution for each individual, but don't take the shortcut to buy the cheapest one, you won't be satisfied by it for sure!

Actually about to start looking for a place, which makes it a bit easier. I can pick a room and set it in a corner with a fume hood or the like.

31 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Hey guys. So what's the difference now between the regular plastic that Shapeways use and the professional plastic? Is professional plastic more 'perfect' looking?

Anyways, I want to get one for my extra VF-31A. Is there a way to mount the Gunpod in fighter mode just in case? Thanks!

Professional plastic is less flexible, but has much higher detail and better surface finish. It doesn't need the priming/filling/sanding that the WSF does. It's also more brittle, so best for external parts that are well supported, rather than internal ones that are directly involved in the transformation.

There's a clip you can use to mount the gunpod onto one of the wing hardpoints, I've added it to the top post in the thread.

Here's some pictures:

 

Edited November 15, 2018 by Sanity is Optional

[WaferMouse]

Question's a bit out of nowhere, I know, but it seems like it's the best place to put it in front of the eyes with the answers: What software are people using to cook these models up? Is there anything with a low learning curve that's still versatile? Also free/cheap would be great, since I may discover I suck at it 

I'd like to experiment with cooking up a design or two for my VFs. I've got a bit of experience with UnrealEd, Blender and vector graphics, for reference.

[mickyg]

A great place to get started is Sketchup.  It's not perfect but it should get you a feel for how to do modelling.  I think you're gaming world editor experience will serve you well too. Though as I recall, Unreal used a "carve it out of a hunk of clay" sort of method.  Is that still the case with newer versions?

Back on topic, Xigfrid used Sketchup a lot so would be a great place to look for what's possible. 

[WaferMouse]

2 hours ago, mickyg said:

A great place to get started is Sketchup.  It's not perfect but it should get you a feel for how to do modelling.  I think you're gaming world editor experience will serve you well too. Though as I recall, Unreal used a "carve it out of a hunk of clay" sort of method.  Is that still the case with newer versions?

Back on topic, Xigfrid used Sketchup a lot so would be a great place to look for what's possible. 

Cool, I'll check out Sketchup to get started then. AFAIK Unreal still uses subtractive geometry, I haven't actually had a reason to touch it since 2k4.

[Sanity is Optional]

Unfortunately, the only CAD I've used are professional programs. Currently I'm using Solidworks, since my job involves a copy (and a laptop that can run it).

If you're a student you can get an "educational" copy for $100, but I'd definitely try freeware first and see how you like it.

 

If you have any experience machining, then it ought to be a very easy learning curve. If not, it really depends on how easily you can get used to the interface, and how easily you can imagine the final product as a series of features added to a base.

[Xigfrid]

Woah, this thread has been busy !

Shapeways materials:
1) Cheapest material is Standard plastic: description: SLS made, white, porous and requires (at least) 3x primer layers to be acceptable. Good dimension accuracy and stronger than classic plastic!
2) Expensive (1.5x Standard plastic) material: Resin curing, Smooth High Detail Plastic: foggy clear plastic (can be translucent if polished), high detail surface but brittle, it would break if dropped from 1meter height. Exceptional geometry and dimension accuracy.
3)  Professional plastic is 2x times more expensive (arbitrary) than Standard Plastic: made by HP 4200 printer (JetFusion technology), parts are Grey or Black, require 2x primer layers. Greater dimension and geometry accuracy, but in general it prints 0.2mm thicker that need to be sanded or it would wear off with friction. This material is not porous, it will save a lot of primer, and the surface looks great out of the printer. One downside, the plastic not as strong as Standard Plastic, it is more like a classic ABS plastic strenght.

I love sketchup, this is easy to begin modeling with, and once you get it you can make mechanical parts quiet easily. Only thing, is that you really can't sculpt with it (or I haven't tried hard enough to test it), you can also "curve-modeling" with the correct extension addons.

And last thing! Shapeways Promotion will be 1 day only, on Cyber Monday the 26th November, that would be 15% off on the marketplace

Edited November 16, 2018 by Xigfrid

[WaferMouse]

On 11/16/2018 at 8:57 AM, Xigfrid said:

I love sketchup, this is easy to begin modeling with, and once you get it you can make mechanical parts quiet easily. Only thing, is that you really can't sculpt with it (or I haven't tried hard enough to test it), you can also "curve-modeling" with the correct extension addons.

Thanks for your thoughts on this! I'm more of a mechanical shapes guy as opposed to a sculptor, so Sketchup sounds like an ideal starting point. The designs you pump out through it probably exceed my design ambitions anyway

[Xigfrid]

I got the pod tonight and quickly assemble it, with a few bad news. 

Indeed... 

1) the model is not tight enough for me to validate it for sale. 

2) I fixed all the main issues on my prototype and made something “rather acceptable” that can be transform forth and back in both canon and pod. 

3) I had to gave up on the 30’ tilt

 

Currently, my prototype relies too much on friction, and my screws don’t really help tighting the pod and its articulations. That really bothers me! So I will au around with my prototype and think about a potential V2.

However, this model can be used as a 1:72, fixed position, if printed in Smooth High détail Plastic if any interest.

 

 

 

[Xigfrid]

Super mono canon mode...

[chyll2]

Once you are satisfied with the design, are you going to request bulk printing and sell it?

[Sanity is Optional]

Dang, it looks great. What material did you get it printed in?

Have you thought about using polycap inserts for the tilt?

[Mommar]

I don’t understand what the 30’ tilt was.

[Xigfrid]

3 hours ago, chyll2 said:

Once you are satisfied with the design, are you going to request bulk printing and sell it?

I will probably do that. I was in a rush to finish the design before Monday for the 15% promo at Shapeways, but it looks like I can't make it in time.

31 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Dang, it looks great. What material did you get it printed in?

Have you thought about using polycap inserts for the tilt?

This is a raw print by HP4210 jetfusion with 1 gray primer layer. Next time I will try a new extra smooth finish option at my European printer, they call it Shiny Black, promising! For now, I wanted to avoid PIN inserts, but I guess I will have no choice to add pins for the v2 if I want to keep things tight and functional.

About manufactured Polycaps and Ball joints... I have been wondering if I should use these or not for some time now. I prefer to avoid using them just because I think this is difficult to source the exact same dimension in low quantity but if I come to a 3D print design using them brilliantly, I may change my mind! (Just like I copied the use of copper wires for my little Vajra
 articulations)

12 minutes ago, Mommar said:

I don’t understand what the 30’ tilt was.

I designed the canon pod to be able to tilt upward 30°.
In fact you don't really need the tilt feature because you can tilt the arm that attaches the pod instead. BUT if you want to rotate left/right and have the canons tilted upwards on the side, you can't mimic that with the arm alone, that's where you need the tilt on the pod itself too.

[Mommar]

Is that printed in their grey color?

[no3Ljm]

That looks nice, Xigfrid.

 

[Xigfrid]

The original color is not very attractive in fact, that’s why I prefer to spray a grey primer before taking pictures. 

[Mommar]

On 11/23/2018 at 2:54 PM, Xigfrid said:

The original color is not very attractive in fact, that’s why I prefer to spray a grey primer before taking pictures. 

Good to know, I was thinking it would be more simple to paint them to match the 31A scheme since they’re pretty much all gray with some darker gray in some of the nooks and crannies.  I wasn’t sure how close just printing in gray would get it.  Looks like painting is a necessity anyway.

Edited November 25, 2018 by Mommar

[Xigfrid]

In addition to that, the sprues once cut leave a black dot on the grey part, and if you sand a bit the whole part, it will turn darker -almost black-.

I have great news, I have found and tested a fix on my dual canon and I am confident that it be opened firmly now, I have also thought of a solution to keep the 30’ tilt and make everything tight with little changes on the original 3D file. I have to make all these changes on the file and print it to make sure. I hope you will like the new pictures. 

 

[Sildani]

I like!

Didn't someone make Bandai-compatible hardpoints for models that didn’t have them? I thought I’d seen them on Shapeways. 

Edited November 26, 2018 by Sildani

[Xigfrid]

4 hours ago, Sildani said:

I like!

Didn't someone make Bandai-compatible hardpoints for models that didn’t have them? I thought I’d seen them on Shapeways. 

I did them a while ago, they are similar to the VF-9 wing attachments. They work but they need to be refined a bit. 

But I made the Yamato/Arcadia compatible hard points, which works very well, and you can also rotate the ordnance for variable swep wings. All my custom missiles can be mounted on both hard points. 

[Sildani]

Got it, thanks!

Do the AMM 101 pylons fit on the Arcadia hardpoints? And speaking of which, what happened to the AMM 101 missiles themselves?

Edited November 26, 2018 by Sildani

[Xigfrid]

You got the eye, I have removed the AMM101 because I wasn’t really happy of the amount of work it represents to smooth them and it would give a bad taste for something meant to be fun. I can put back a 6-pack.

I just noticed that I didn’t upload the AMM pylons compatible with Arcadia hard points. I can fix that too

[Sildani]

Please do, hopefully before the sale ends!

[Xigfrid]

19 minutes ago, Sildani said:

Please do, hopefully before the sale ends!

done click me!