CHAVAKAISER Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Kicker773 said: Tengo un valk que se ha vuelto amarillo almacenado. ¿Qué pasos están usando todos para el peróxido de hidrógeno ru? ¿Parece que no puede encontrarlo en las publicaciones anteriores o es español? Step 1 with the peroxide cream applied to the areas yellow (trying not to touch the paint) I did with 1/48 and no affect, but I don't know if it's the same with 1/60 Step 2- it is put into a closed transparent bag, and leave a few hours in the sun (or you can buy one generating lamp U.V rays that they sell, where they supply the nails and aesthetics and leave it under that light. Step 3 you take it out and wash with dish soap you leave it dry and go Repeat step 2 if it is still yellow WARNING: This is at your own risk, I do not responsible for any damage to its parts I have not I have problems. PS don't put the cream on metal pieces directly, or on parts spray painted by that will chip the paint and rust the pieces of metal. Unfortunately the yellow will return in time, but You can do the treatment again I hope it serves you Edited December 30, 2020 by CHAVAKAISER Quote
Kenny G Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 On 12/26/2020 at 9:15 AM, sqidd said: Wow, that's a bummer. I think the foam is the issue. I think ill try to de yellow it come spring unless I can find a UV lamp for cheap Quote
takatoys Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 Ok, it is well proven that the treatment with peroxide works. But, will it become yellow again and worse? Even if you leave it in the dark? Quote
Kicker773 Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) How about in tampo and decals? and which hydrogen peroxide gel? Hair or teeth? There’s like a bunch with 40 or 50 How long do you keep it under UV light? Im worried about washing it afterwards especially on decal parts Edited December 30, 2020 by Kicker773 Quote
Slave IV Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 I don’t get why anyone would bother doing this but more power to any who do. Quote
sqidd Posted January 3, 2021 Posted January 3, 2021 29 minutes ago, CHAVAKAISER said: before and after What process? Quote
CHAVAKAISER Posted January 3, 2021 Posted January 3, 2021 1 hour ago, sqidd said: Que proceso the process is at the top on this very topic Quote
sqidd Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 51 minutes ago, CHAVAKAISER said: the process is at the top on this very topic Quote
ErikElvis Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 I haven’t had any displayed valks yellow on me yet but seeing the pic of the freshly opened 25 scares me. Might have to take my white valks out and store them another way. Quote
sqidd Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 5 hours ago, ErikElvis said: I haven’t had any displayed valks yellow on me yet but seeing the pic of the freshly opened 25 scares me. Might have to take my white valks out and store them another way. I think the ones you have to watch out for are the ones in Styrofoam coffins. Quote
jenius Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 I think Styrofoam is being overly maligned. While I don't doubt that it's not totally inert, and therefore not the perfect storage medium, it's generally seen as being tougher on the paint of the toys than the plastic. Styrofoam is grabby so the toy rocking in the box every time the box is jostled can lead to paint being stripped. As to yellowing, two toys have been mentioned recently in this thread that are absolutely notorious for going yellow, even when not exposed to sunlight: 1) Bandai's version 1 VF-25 toys (particularly the first release 25F/S) 2) Yamato's version 1 1/60 VF-1 toys For the Yamato toys, it's trickier to ferret out because the packaging includes a giant window so even someone who says "It was kept in the dark" may not have realized how much light actually was hitting the item. That said, there are lots of obvious cases of super uneven yellowing for both these toys which is a sign of poor materials. Both these toys didn't get a mix right at some point and the result is plastic that is breaking down without the need of sunlight and heat to help it along. On the VF-25 toys, you can usually tell the toy is made of a few different plastics and one of the plastics is rapidly deteriorating... the nosecone is always one of those parts. On the Yamato toys it similar with the landing gear doors being the most obvious evidence. You'll note that on sealed DX Version 1 VF-25 toys, Mandarake has started putting warnings that say "Risk of color change due to age" because there was apparently a lot of subpar plastic put out there. The only V1 VF-25 toys I have left are the last two releases, the Alto Tornado and the Michael Tornado, neither have yellowing. I'm curious if it's just because it takes a couple more years for the plastic to break down or if they had improved their process by then. Quote
Mog Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 Don't forget you also have my Yamato 1/48 TV VF-1A Max that "yellowed" from bright blue to teal. That box had no clear window in the packaging, so no light could have gotten through. BUT the boxed up TV Max was left up in my attic exposed to tons of massive temperature changes. So, that was probably the biggest factor for the yellowing/tealing. Quote
Sanity is Optional Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 I have a V1 VF-25F super boxed set that I picked up heavily used from Mandarake several years ago, actually is still the original blue-grey shade they made it in, despite being on display since I got it. I suspect the plastic quality was a bit better on the super pack box set reissues. Quote
Dirtyboy Posted August 22, 2021 Posted August 22, 2021 My VF-31C has recently yellowed, left in the box. Was the Styrofoam for sure thst caused it. The other DX VF-31s I have had a plastic sheet between the valk and the Styrofoam and they had no issues. Will contemplate this process once I muster up the courage to do it. Quote
borgified Posted August 22, 2021 Posted August 22, 2021 Wait a minute here @Dirtyboy... All the 31 valks have plastic trays and not Styrofoam like the 25/27/29 (sans v.3 Alto Full Set) and the 30. Quote
crackpot Posted August 23, 2021 Posted August 23, 2021 2 hours ago, borgified said: Wait a minute here @Dirtyboy... All the 31 valks have plastic trays and not Styrofoam like the 25/27/29 (sans v.3 Alto Full Set) and the 30. Nope. Styro. Quote
no3Ljm Posted August 23, 2021 Posted August 23, 2021 31 is still using styro on the main Valk container with plastic sheet in between the figure and the styro. Quote
Lolicon Posted August 23, 2021 Posted August 23, 2021 Yep. Bandai didn't start using all plastic trays till the DX VF-1 line. Slipping a valk back into its plastic tray is so much less hassle than trying to wrap it in its plastic sheet then carefully try to conform it to the tiny styrofoam tray shape. Quote
armentage Posted August 24, 2021 Author Posted August 24, 2021 On 1/3/2021 at 3:54 PM, CHAVAKAISER said: before and after So I have a question - what happens if you get the peroxide mix over the painted parts of the figure? Will it eat away or damage the paint? How carefully must you be while applying it? Quote
SpaceCowboy Posted August 24, 2021 Posted August 24, 2021 I've done the peroxide treatment twice - in both cases, the paint mostly dissolves, but I was leaving it outside for weeks to let the sun whiten it enough (I bought some badly yellowed takatoku's off ebay cheap for this purpose). It was fun, but one of them yellowed again a few years later, because it is the chemicals that the plastic was built with, the bromide mix in particular, that causes the yellowing, IIRC. At this point, it might be an interesting experiment to whiten it, then paint it white. Then when the scratches occur, they are more likely to be white on white, so harder to see, and the paint will hide the yellowing. Quote
Slave IV Posted August 24, 2021 Posted August 24, 2021 I never got the point of the peroxide treatments when the figure will just yellow again. Quote
borgified Posted August 25, 2021 Posted August 25, 2021 Tomato soup valks right @Slave IV, as it adds more flavour into the mix. Quote
Slave IV Posted August 25, 2021 Posted August 25, 2021 57 minutes ago, borgified said: Tomato soup valks right @Slave IV, as it adds more flavour into the mix. Yeah, I'd rather just have a yellow valk. What's wrong with yellow? Gives you more reason to collect em all! Quote
DewPoint Posted August 25, 2021 Posted August 25, 2021 (edited) Some people claim that the de-yellowing reduces plastic brittleness. I honestly have no clue if it is true or not. Regardless, you are essentially "bleaching" the plastic. Ultimately, it is your toy, do with it what you want! 🦀🦀🦀😋 Edited August 25, 2021 by DewPoint Quote
Rein+ Posted August 25, 2021 Posted August 25, 2021 what kind of peroxide cream we talking about? is there any example product that we can use? Quote
borgified Posted August 25, 2021 Posted August 25, 2021 @Rein+ - See October 31/2019 post by @Ignacio Ocamica, that should help you. Quote
Ignacio Ocamica Posted August 25, 2021 Posted August 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Rein+ said: what kind of peroxide cream we talking about? is there any example product that we can use? I just bought an inexpensive 40 Volume hair bleaching cream. Quote
SpaceCowboy Posted August 26, 2021 Posted August 26, 2021 You can even do it with over the shelf hydrogen peroxide, it just takes longer because the concentrations aren't as high. (that's what I did) Quote
rocketblast Posted August 30, 2021 Posted August 30, 2021 On 12/22/2017 at 5:38 PM, linitrofe said: This stuff removed some of the paint from my VF-1A 1/60 v1 wing. So I'm going to end up painting the whole valk with tamiya model paint one day. I have a spare brand new in factory sealed box vf-1a 1/60 v1 anyway Quote
kazuo Posted September 12, 2021 Posted September 12, 2021 You need to be careful with peroxide and painted or glossy surfaces. It will almost always damage or ruin the finish. This is really best used on "bare" plastic, or plastic where the color is mixed into the plastic itself (i.e. not painted on). It will also most certainly damage or ruin any decals. Quote
Nate Posted October 18, 2021 Posted October 18, 2021 I'm not sure if this has been posted yet, but this was one of the best videos I've seen on the topic of plastic yellowing and the remedies: https://youtu.be/8P1OVj0IcqY Quote
miro79 Posted March 13, 2022 Posted March 13, 2022 (edited) I just opened my Vf-25F Renewal, which was stored in the original box for a year, and its yellow now. It was never displayed in direct sunlight, or any other bright light. I mean, i had my problems with this toy..it`s already broken and not transformable anymore, because the plastic at the hip folding joint just crumbled away, but now it is even worse! Now its not even a nice looking display model anymore. Im sad 😔 Edited March 13, 2022 by miro79 Quote
Ryoma Posted March 13, 2022 Posted March 13, 2022 2 hours ago, miro79 said: I just opened my Vf-25F Renewal, which was stored in the original box for a year, and its yellow now. It was never displayed in direct sunlight, or any other bright light. I mean, i had my problems with this toy..it`s already broken and not transformable anymore, because the plastic at the hip folding joint just crumbled away, but now it is even worse! Now its not even a nice looking display model anymore. Im sad 😔 I had a similar problem with my VF-25F which, among all the VF-25s, is the only one that yellowed. In any case there are some good instructions for a reverse de yellowing process a couple of pages back in this topic. However i m crossing my fingers for Bandai to rerelease the toy with a matt finish, like it did for the yf-29. Quote
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