YOU'RE YELLOW! VF-25F turning all sorts of colors

[borgified]

@dafob: I was actually typing to use the tape method over the red and the black, however I got ninjaed by you before I can post it.. 

[RED WOLF]

Is this yellowing? Hard to tell and they only speak Japanese. Could it be the lighting? 

Thoughts? 

 

[Sanity is Optional]

Based on the difference in shade on the tail-fin hinges, I'm going to say it's probably yellowed some.

[RED WOLF]

44 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Based on the difference in shade on the tail-fin hinges, I'm going to say it's probably yellowed some.

Would it be worth buying or should I avoid? 

[Shizuka the Cat]

6 minutes ago, RED WOLF said:

Would it be worth buying or should I avoid? 

On my monitor it looks quite a bit yellowed. 

If it were me, I probably would not get it as a display piece as is.

If cheap enough though, might consider using either for repainting, parts, or experimentation.

[RED WOLF]

3 minutes ago, Shizuka the Cat said:

On my monitor it looks quite a bit yellowed. 

If it were me, I probably would not get it as a display piece as is.

If cheap enough though, might consider using either for repainting, parts, or experimentation.

OK I had the same sentiments. Thanks for the input guyd

[dafob]

Agreed with Cat.  If cheap enough, it'd be worth it if you wanna put some effort in whitening it.  It's not hard or expensive, but requires patience.  If done right, the results are very rewarding.

[RED WOLF]

30 minutes ago, dafob said:

Agreed with Cat.  If cheap enough, it'd be worth it if you wanna put some effort in whitening it.  It's not hard or expensive, but requires patience.  If done right, the results are very rewarding.

Time is too valuable at the moment, but thanks 

[borgified]

@RED WOLF: My copy of the 1/48 Hikaru (used) is slightly yellowed (not to the extent as @dafob's tester) while the listing says it was sunburnt. Even though I have the Arcadia Strike Roy, I wanted a larger VF-1s version as a complement.

Regardless I can leave the 1/48 as a center piece while the 1/60 will be in battriod, plus I can flip it around upon my moods and won't be putting it on the two top shelves on my detolf.

As per the write up on Jenius' site: http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=178  (see January 9th question to January 11th). As for your display case, you can get a roll of UV film and put on. You got blinds in your garage/hobby room (a bonus), and the take the usual precautions needed. Hopefully that you don't have the lights in your display cranked up at maximum as well.

Plus get a pair of cotton gloves to handle the valk (if your going to fiddle with it or shuffle your collection around) as your hand oils may or may not be causing the valk to yellow and less fingerprints also!    

[RED WOLF]

23 minutes ago, borgified said:

@RED WOLF: My copy of the 1/48 Hikaru (used) is slightly yellowed (not to the extent as @dafob's tester) while the listing says it was sunburnt. Even though I have the Arcadia Strike Roy, I wanted a larger VF-1s version as a complement.

Regardless I can leave the 1/48 as a center piece while the 1/60 will be in battriod, plus I can flip it around upon my moods and won't be putting it on the two top shelves on my detolf.

As per the write up on Jenius' site: http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=178  (see January 9th question to January 11th). As for your display case, you can get a roll of UV film and put on. You got blinds in your garage/hobby room (a bonus), and the take the usual precautions needed. Hopefully that you don't have the lights in your display cranked up at maximum as well.

Plus get a pair of cotton gloves to handle the valk (if your going to fiddle with it or shuffle your collection around) as your hand oils may or may not be causing the valk to yellow and less fingerprints also!    

Thanks for the great advice. My garage has blinds always closed. I handle my guys with gloves in general bc of the finger prints as well. They're in an all glass display with daylight leds. I only have them on roughly 3-4 a week for about 1 hour so. I don't fiddle with my figures after they are posed up. I prefer to stare and gawk.  My sdf1 pf will be the centerpiece and I'll have the other valks in jet mode. Only the gbp will be in battroid mode armored up. 

Thank you

Edited May 12, 2018 by RED WOLF

[borgified]

Based on what I've read about Hydrogen Peroxide to clean up discolored valks, has anyone tried using a 10% content (a la Acne Cleanser cream) and sunlight to their discolored valks (with various applications afterwards until it's in satisfactory condition)?

I've seen this method used on plastic dolls and 1/6th stained figures as I have my Mezco Mirror Spock with a heavy stain on the hip area do to the dark coloured pants that it has. 

Edited June 13, 2018 by borgified
clarification and spelling

[dafob]

On 6/12/2018 at 7:47 PM, borgified said:

Based on what I've read about Hydrogen Peroxide to clean up discolored valks, has anyone tried using a 10% content (a la Acne Cleanser cream) and sunlight to their discolored valks (with various applications afterwards until it's in satisfactory condition)?

I've seen this method used on plastic dolls and 1/6th stained figures as I have my Mezco Mirror Spock with a heavy stain on the hip area do to the dark coloured pants that it has. 

I personally haven't tried a 10% concentration of hydrogen peroxide.  I've only used developer 40 hair gel, which is about 12% H2O2.  I like the "gel" part because it's easy to apply and doesn't dry out as quickly. 

I'd assume the cleanser cream you're referring to would achieve the same results, but you're welcome to try and let us know how it goes. 

[mamboeidos]

this is y i am afraid of getting the VS-0S PF

[hoahuynh]

On 7/19/2018 at 1:56 PM, mamboeidos said:

this is y i am afraid of getting the VS-0S PF

My old Yamato VF-0S has already gone yellow but i guess its expected, Australian sun

[DewPoint]

My Bandai HCM VF-1J that my father bought me back in 1985 is all kinds of shades of yellow.  It hasn't been out of it's box for more than a hour in literally the last 30 years!  It lives in my closet (two different closets) and I did play with it a lot for the first three years or so.  It showed no signs of yellowing when I stopped playing with it.  I'm afraid to completely transform it now as I'm afraid it will fall apart in my hands if I do.

[Sanity is Optional]

Fortunately, modern plastic compositions are a lot more resistant to UV light than the stuff used in the 80s.

[mamboeidos]

1 hour ago, hoahuynh said:

My old Yamato VF-0S has already gone yellow but i guess its expected, Australian sun

Even my yama stealth super n strike also has yellowing on the stealth parts

[dafob]

As evident from my posts in this thread, I've had much success whitening yellowed plastics.  But everything I've done up to this point has been stuff that was originally white or off-white.  I recently picked up some sunburnt Yamato YF-19 Fast Pack parts.  These parts are dark gray and I've never seen plastic that dark go yellow.  I wanted to experiment w/ the hydrogen peroxide treatment to see how it would affect plastic that dark.  

 

 

 

Since it has been cloudy in sunny SoCal lately, I was only able to get in a few hours of sun the first day.  Here are the results after about 3 hours:

 

Stupid me should've stopped there because the following day was a bright sunny day so after 8 more hours of sun:

 

It seems TOO much hydrogen peroxide treatment is a bad thing on darker plastics because you can see blotches of white and uneven coloring on the left piece.  

So this is a PSA to those that want to try hydrogen peroxide on darker plastics.  I'm sure plastic composition and other factors also play into it.  Note that this is just my experience.  If anyone else has had better success, please let us know.

[Sanity is Optional]

Ouch, going to try and salvage via repainting?

[dafob]

29 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Ouch, going to try and salvage via repainting?

Yeah, that's probably the plan at this point.  Just gotta find matching gray spray paint.  Thankfully there's no tampos on these parts and the backpiece can be separated so it should be easy to paint.

[borgified]

After a month of dormant activity, I found something that might be of interest on Manda and it anyone is willing to try and restore it.

Literally your worst nightmare!!

Everything is complete -  https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1100036287&ref=list and cigarette smell as well 

Here's a pic of the condition.

 

 

 

Edit: My copy is still in the box and I haven't checked it if it has yellowed since I have it in storage for 5 years.

Edited November 12, 2018 by borgified

[dafob]

1 hour ago, borgified said:

After a month of dormant activity, I found something that might be of interest on Manda and it anyone is willing to try and restore it.

Literally your worst nightmare!!

Everything is complete -  https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1100036287&ref=list and cigarette smell as well 

Here's a pic of the condition.

 

Edit: My copy is still in the box and I haven't checked it if it has yellowed since I have it in storage for 5 years.

I still think my Jetfire was A LOT worse than this so I don't think this is too bad.  LOL. 

I also have this reissue, still MISB.  You had me worried so I just pulled it out of the closet and mine is still white (...for now...).

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Can I ask the ratio of peroxide used on that Jetfire?

I have a couple toys that I would like to restore.

Thank you.

[dafob]

4 hours ago, Ignacio Ocamica said:

Can I ask the ratio of peroxide used on that Jetfire?

I have a couple toys that I would like to restore.

Thank you.

I used premixed developer 40 hair gel cream.  The cream is viscous and thick so it's easier to apply.  This is the one I used.  

Hope that helps.

[no3Ljm]

1 hour ago, dafob said:

I used premixed developer 40 hair gel cream.  The cream is viscous and thick so it's easier to apply.  This is the one I used.  

Hope that helps.

So it's safe to apply it directly? No mixture needed?

Thanks. I might try to apply it on one of my Beagle Stick.

 

[Ignacio Ocamica]

51 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

So it's safe to apply it directly? No mixture needed?

Thanks. I might try to apply it on one of my Beagle Stick.

 

Your Stick has yellowed Noel? Both my Beagle Stick and Rei have yellowed thigh armor. 

 

[Ignacio Ocamica]

2 hours ago, dafob said:

I used premixed developer 40 hair gel cream.  The cream is viscous and thick so it's easier to apply.  This is the one I used.  

Hope that helps.

Thank you, I have access to a similar product, will try it!!!

[no3Ljm]

33 minutes ago, Ignacio Ocamica said:

Your Stick has yellowed Noel? Both my Beagle Stick and Rei have yellowed thigh armor. 

Hey Ignacio. Yeah. On my first Stick. Both thigh armors, lower portion of the helmet (chin guard area), and the wheels. 

 

[CHAVAKAISER]

Works in yamato 1/48

[nightmareB4macross]

3 hours ago, CHAVAKAISER said:

Works in yamato 1/48

Do you have any recent pictures? 

I remember this picture from way back but I would like to know how long this treatment lasts.

Thank you.

[kazuo]

The reason those armor pieces ended up splotchy is because of uneven application of the creme solution and/or inconsistent exposure to UV.

My recommendation based on extensive attempts at de-yellowing is: don't do it

If you insist, I would:

• Buy a container large enough to fit the parts; line it with tin foil
• Buy a UV lamp/bulb. UV light strips work even better since you can mount them inside the container easily
• If the parts are small enough to submerge easily, use liquid solution, and not the creme
• For larger parts, use a brush to apply the creme, then place the parts inside the container
• Turn on UV light, walk away for a few hours
• ???
• Hopefully it comes out the way you expect

Edited November 27, 2018 by kazuo

[dafob]

13 hours ago, kazuo said:

The reason those armor pieces ended up splotchy is because of uneven application of the creme solution and/or inconsistent exposure to UV.

My recommendation based on extensive attempts at de-yellowing is: don't do it

If you insist, I would:

• Buy a container large enough to fit the parts; line it with tin foil
• Buy a UV lamp/bulb. UV light strips work even better since you can mount them inside the container easily
• If the parts are small enough to submerge easily, use liquid solution, and not the creme
• For larger parts, use a brush to apply the creme, then place the parts inside the container
• Turn on UV light, walk away for a few hours
• ???
• Hopefully it comes out the way you expect

Thanks for the tips. 

[SilentCrossHairs]

My YF-31 Siegfried ,VF-0, and small part of my YF- 29 Alto both yellowed on me. So I bought some Cream Peroxide Developer.  Applied it to both Valks. Placed them in an air tight container  and let them both sit under a hot lamp over night.  After 2 applications they were both white again.  Word to the wise. Don't use a hot light bulb in your display case, it will yellow your Valks.

[DewPoint]

I played with this guy hard in my youth.  I broke the right index finger and lost the antenna and heat shield somewhere along the way.  The sticker sheet was destroyed when it was boxed in the factory.  I'm afraid to transform it into fighter mode for fear of snapping off the backpack or tail fins.  I've thought about whitening it, but I think I'll leave it as is.  It may not survive disassembly.  I'll think of it as "patina."

[nightmareB4macross]

On 12/22/2018 at 6:22 PM, DewPoint said:

I played with this guy hard in my youth.  I broke the right index finger and lost the antenna and heat shield somewhere along the way.  The sticker sheet was destroyed when it was boxed in the factory.  I'm afraid to transform it into fighter mode for fear of snapping off the backpack or tail fins.  I've thought about whitening it, but I think I'll leave it as is.  It may not survive disassembly.  I'll think of it as "patina."

It looks good just the way it is.

IMHO depending on which VF it is I actually like this look. Roy VF-1S and the VF-1D would look good with an amber tint. Then a light brown or umber wash to balance and achieve a great weathered look.