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Posted (edited)

Even in Saburo's pics it seems to be slightly more gappy on the left side. Had such an issue with a VF-25. By transforming it I noticed that a hinge was not in the right position for about a millimeter and transforming back then solved it. Maybe that's the same issue with your SDF.

Edited by CrossAir
Posted
45 minutes ago, RED WOLF said:

Just got thus today and pulled it out. A lot smaller than I expected but really cool nonetheless. Is it supposed to be this gappy? 

 

20180514_160056.jpg

It wasn't transformed correctly from the factory. The main cannons can be pushed back a half inch more toward the rear of the ship, pressed together toward the main body, then 'tabbed' into the main body to secure it. From the bottom the front of the main body can be extended to hide some of the gap as well.

Posted
1 minute ago, RoadWarriorMax said:

Question , I ordered this from Nippon Yasan .

it was delivered when I was out town.

And I did not pick it up in time, so they sent it back ...

what should or can I do??:angry:

 

Call your shipping carrier with the tracking number and explain the situation. You might be able to stop it before it get's sent back to Japan if it's still in transit. I don't think NY can do anything for you until it returns to them.

Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, RoadWarriorMax said:

Question , I ordered this from Nippon Yasan .

it was delivered when I was out town.

And I did not pick it up in time, so they sent it back ...

what should or can I do??:angry:

 

Normally the Post Office makes 3 attempts before doing so. I'm guessing they tried 3 days in a row. I'm also guessing you didn't ask them to hold it there at the Post Office so you could pick it up? What can you do? Ask NY to resend it once they receive it. Sorry, but that is about it. You might be able to catch it at the Post Office before it goes back. Just so you know when items are sent back it doesn't go as fast as it came. It could take a few days, weeks or months. 

Edited by RED WOLF
Posted
2 hours ago, RED WOLF said:

Thats what I was thinking too when I compared the pix to Saburo's. Its fresh out of the box should I transform it or should it come together better? I never owned an SDF-1 so I"m at the mercy of you guys.

 

2 hours ago, CrossAir said:

Even in Saburo's pics it seems to be slightly more gappy on the left side. Had such an issue with a VF-25. By transforming it I noticed that a hinge was not in the right position for about a millimeter and transforming back then solved it. Maybe that's the same issue with your SDF.

 

I noticed the differences in the gap after I had taken all the pictures, I didn't feel like retaking the photos.  I know what happened, I moved the left arm while trying to reposition SFD-1.

Posted

Finally put on the runner parts, and now I have "runner part finger ache."  There seemed to be inordinate amount of parts on the ARMDS; I thought there would be more parts for the main body.  It really seemed like some of those parts could have been included in the main mold, as well, not sure why we had to put so many of those details on.

I'm also worried about not being able to get the bridge off when I want to pack this thing up to move.  I sanded down the screw cover just a hair and now it is in there really snug.  Maybe some tape can get it off?  I guess I'll worry about that later.

Posted
2 hours ago, RoadWarriorMax said:

Question , I ordered this from Nippon Yasan .

it was delivered when I was out town.

And I did not pick it up in time, so they sent it back ...

what should or can I do??:angry:

 

If its still in your country you might beable to stop it if you contact the shipping company intime.  Once its out of the country they will not beable to reroute.

You will have to contact N-Y and be ready to pay the return shipping cost and the new shipping cost of senting this item back you again.

https://www.nippon-yasan.com/cms.php?id_cms=3

In case of return of the parcel, whatever the reason (absence, unclaimed, incomplete address ...) the expenses of return will be charged to the customer.

 

Posted

I used an Allen Key to snap in most of the runner parts into place. The key is flat and strong enough that you can leverage both ends across the screw caps to get even pressure and snap them in without damage to the parts or your fingers.

Posted
2 hours ago, HardlyNever said:

Finally put on the runner parts, and now I have "runner part finger ache."  There seemed to be inordinate amount of parts on the ARMDS; I thought there would be more parts for the main body.  It really seemed like some of those parts could have been included in the main mold, as well, not sure why we had to put so many of those details on.

I'm also worried about not being able to get the bridge off when I want to pack this thing up to move.  I sanded down the screw cover just a hair and now it is in there really snug.  Maybe some tape can get it off?  I guess I'll worry about that later.

I didn’t use the screw (just like with my Yamato), so I can easily remove the bridge for storage and/or transformation. But the fit is tight enough that it stays snugly in place.

Posted
11 hours ago, ArchieNov said:

I didn’t use the screw (just like with my Yamato), so I can easily remove the bridge for storage and/or transformation. But the fit is tight enough that it stays snugly in place.

Yeah, I had the bridge on without a screw for a while.  I just wanted it to feel "complete," so I ended up screwing the bridge on.  Now I'm not sure how I'm going to get it off when I pack it up for moving... :unsure:

I'll figure something out, I guess.  If anyone has any insight as to how to get the screw cover off (so I can get at the screw), I'd appreciate it.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, HardlyNever said:

Yeah, I had the bridge on without a screw for a while.  I just wanted it to feel "complete," so I ended up screwing the bridge on.  Now I'm not sure how I'm going to get it off when I pack it up for moving... :unsure:

I'll figure something out, I guess.  If anyone has any insight as to how to get the screw cover off (so I can get at the screw), I'd appreciate it.

In the past I filled the screw hole(s) (cross pattern or minus sign) with super glue then put my screw driver/phillips in then let it dry for a bit then pulled it right out. You can still reuse the screw too.

Edited by RED WOLF
Posted
8 hours ago, HardlyNever said:

Yeah, I had the bridge on without a screw for a while.  I just wanted it to feel "complete," so I ended up screwing the bridge on.  Now I'm not sure how I'm going to get it off when I pack it up for moving... :unsure:

The bridge does not need to be removed to fit it back in its box.  The original Yamato release used exactly the same styrofoam insert, and the bridge was attached to the ship to begin with.

I'm not even sure why Arcadia chose to remove it, actually...

Posted
5 minutes ago, tekering said:

The bridge does not need to be removed to fit it back in its box.  The original Yamato release used exactly the same styrofoam insert, and the bridge was attached to the ship to begin with.

I'm not even sure why Arcadia chose to remove it, actually...

I think they remove it to better protect it during shipping. It's pretty fragile.

Posted
11 hours ago, tekering said:

The bridge does not need to be removed to fit it back in its box.  The original Yamato release used exactly the same styrofoam insert, and the bridge was attached to the ship to begin with.

I'm not even sure why Arcadia chose to remove it, actually...

My Yamato version (possibly a later release) had the bridge separate in the box. The styro was similar to the Arcadia non-PE SDF-1.

The reason it was separate is because the antennae can get snagged on the styro cover or the plastic, so it’s safer that way.

Posted
12 hours ago, tekering said:

The bridge does not need to be removed to fit it back in its box.  The original Yamato release used exactly the same styrofoam insert, and the bridge was attached to the ship to begin with.

I'm not even sure why Arcadia chose to remove it, actually...

This is my plan B.  If I can't get the screw cover off, I'll just gouge out a little bit of the styrofoam lid where the bridge will sit. 

Hopefully I'll be able to get the cover off.  I'm hoping just some tape or other adhesive will be able to get it out without much effort, but I'm not going to mess with it for months now.

Posted

I no longer have to press the button to release the canon arms to fold down. :unsure: I do still need to press it in order to fold them up. Should I be worried?

Also, how does one attach the ARMDs without the use of a hydraulic press?

Posted
11 minutes ago, MikeRoz said:

I no longer have to press the button to release the canon arms to fold down. :unsure: I do still need to press it in order to fold them up. Should I be worried?

Also, how does one attach the ARMDs without the use of a hydraulic press?

I think as long as the cannons hold their position it should be fine? The ARMDs were a pain in the ass to put on. So much so I was basically lightly sanding off the top coat on the connectors in order to get them on. 

Posted
34 minutes ago, SuperHobo said:

I think as long as the cannons hold their position it should be fine? The ARMDs were a pain in the ass to put on. So much so I was basically lightly sanding off the top coat on the connectors in order to get them on. 

Okay, as it turns out, the buttons do still work - it's just really hard to get one cannon angled all the way to the point where it will engage again. The other one more naturally straightens out for some reason.

Got the ARMDs on. After the number of times I tried to get 01 on, I thought I might have been sanding a bit off just from the attempts - but then I got 02 on much more quickly. It really is about angling it as much as possible.

Finally, I think I managed to rub off some of the phosphorescent paint on the middle section that swings around as I was trying to feel my way the transformation. It's not a very visible part of the toy in either mode - a column of three green lights on either side.

Moral of the story, watch Jenius's transformation videos! Don't try to feel your way through it - you'll rub that wonderful finish, and scare yourself into thinking you broke it!

Cruiser to Attack Mode

Attack Mode to Cruiser

Posted (edited)

Anymoon scorched earth transformation vids as MikeRoz suggested helped a lot to get the ARMD on and to transform from Attack to cruiser.  My first SDF-1 so very satisfied with the premium version.  

Edited by db626
Posted
21 minutes ago, jenius said:

Try this!

Ha - I watched the PF review the whole way through looking for something like that. Should have realized it would have been in an earlier video. Thanks.

Posted

Nice pic Saburo.  It would be cool if there was an animated gif made of the SDF-1 coming out of darkness into light.

Posted
12 minutes ago, ridgebacks said:

Saw this on a Chinese macross forum. Someone using some shading technique to achieve the anime looks (it's a premium ver.):

545a0ff41bd5ad6e902ea6428dcb39dbb7fd3c00.jpg

9971e824b899a901d8d2999e11950a7b0308f571.jpg

e498f3d3572c11df36367d8b6f2762d0f603c271.jpg

eb634e4a20a44623bb2d67ca9422720e0df3d771.jpg

I figgin love those cell shaded customs!

Posted

Love that anime cel-shaded look. :wub: 

But did he used PF version for that? I remember someone posted a work in progress of the same cel-shaded custom but on a regular SDF release not the PF version. Coz if that's the PF version, he's too fast to do that since the PF one just got released less than a month ago.

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