3D Model Request - Missile/Ordnance for DX toys

[WaferMouse]

Just to let you know peeps, my missiles and pylons arrived today none the worse for SWs rule-bending  Time to learn to paint whilst I await my 31C!

[Xigfrid]

On 29/08/2017 at 5:03 PM, WaferMouse said:

Just to let you know peeps, my missiles and pylons arrived today none the worse for SWs rule-bending  Time to learn to paint whilst I await my 31C!

I am glad to hear you receive them at last, please post a few pictures of the missiles once done, the clear tips should be sweet too!

If you want a few good advices about preparing WSF for painting, I think that Jasonc recently made a breakthrough in this matter: you can read more about it here. I ordered the Mr Putty and will be testing this method on my next SW order

[Jasonc]

6 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

I am glad to hear you receive them at last, please post a few pictures of the missiles once done, the clear tips should be sweet too!

If you want a few good advices about preparing WSF for painting, I think that Jasonc recently made a breakthrough in this matter: you can read more about it here. I ordered the Mr Putty and will be testing this method on my next SW order

I'll eventually get to these. I know it's a different topic, but in regards to working with the WSF material, the hardest part is the small crevices and panel lines, but in any case, I was able to find a 1mm file to use in place of sand paper where the sandpaper cannot reach. that being said, I am still using both methods to fill the WSF (multiple layers of paint/sanding and the putty method). for the putty method, I have found that using a very thin layer of it is best. going too thick can make you lose perspective on where the base of the actual material is, and don't put it over panels and detailed areas. for that, I use the heavy primer/paint and sanding method. I'll try to put samples up here later today if I get time.

To stay on topic though, I know I'll be happy with the product once I order these.

[Sildani]

Say, any word on when the new HD material will be available?

Also, will FUD be strong enough to stand the missiles being removed and handled gently? Or should I stick with WSF Polished?

[Xigfrid]

Still looking at the HP wsf thread but no date is confirmed. Btw, I can order it myself and have shapeways send it directly to you if this is something you absolutely want. Remember that only the Black Hp Wsf is polished. 

Concerning the FUD material, I would say for a static display, it can be used for only the missiles. The pylon will need the slight elasticity of WSF to perfectly clip into the Bandai DX attachments. If you plan to remove/ change missiles often don't use FUD

[Sildani]

Well, what would the surface be like for the HP Black polished, and how much would the 18 101 missiles without clear noses cost? The clear caps and pylons need other materials of course. 

[Xigfrid]

That would be the same price as if you buy it yourself +1€/1$ per model printed in HP WSF. Which in your case would be a single €/$ because the clear tips are in FUD, and the pylon in classic WSF

[Sildani]

Got it. Could the missiles be printed in High Definition Acrylate, and how much would it cost I wonder?

[Xigfrid]

14 minutes ago, Sildani said:

Got it. Could the missiles be printed in High Definition Acrylate, and how much would it cost I wonder?

I don't think so: in general when a model uses sprues it is most of the time rejected for High Def Acrylate because there would be too many printing supports. In fact I tried to validate most of my models and they were all rejected, so I gave up this material since then.

Edited September 8, 2017 by Xigfrid

[Sildani]

Thanks for all the help Xigfrid! I'll just order the 101 missiles myself in WSF polished, the clear tips, and the pylons for them, and the flat pylons - I have a Japanese weapons set I'll try out. 

By the way, what do you use to hold all these missiles in place while the Future dries?

[Xigfrid]

You are welcome and share with us your results

This is what I usually do: attach a copper wire on one sprue, dip the whole model into future, hang the model using the copper wire as a hook to let it dry somewhere that is warm and dry, over a recipient / carton to collect the dripping future. 

[Sildani]

Ah, ok, you don't separate the missiles first. Good to know!

EDIT: Ordered the 101 missiles to be printed in WSF Polished. Received email that they couldn't be printed and you were sent a notice, Xigfrid. 

Edited September 8, 2017 by Sildani
Update

[Xigfrid]

Yeah I was tired of their notices and changed the model to make the sprues 2,1mm thickness so they won't bother me again because they are only 1,98mm thick instead of 2mm !

[Sildani]

Yeah, got it done. Do you put the FUD nose caps in Future too?

[Xigfrid]

You probably can, but the FUD tips will need very little polishing to be smooth.

For these missiles, I would prepare the WSF parts first, paint the tips on the sprues (metallic on the inside of the camera to have them to reflect nicely the light), then cut them from the sprue and assemble them with a drop of glue. Once dry, polish the tip and clear coat the whole missile altogether. 

[Sildani]

Do you use cyanoacrylate glue for these, or PVA, or something else?

[Xigfrid]

Super glue works pretty well with FUD. On the other hand, I mixed it with baby powder to obtain a mixture that can be used with WSF.

They dry fast and keep things together well. 

If you want better result you can also use Bi-component epoxy glue. I have always have some around but I am not really fan of the 24h drying time, and that's the one marketed as a "30min"

[Sildani]

The first dip in Future. Hopefully this works!

 

[Xigfrid]

Nice! Just be careful to remove the excess of future inside the mounting holes of the missiles body. With a small bit of paper or cotton bud

[Sildani]

Well, everything still looks grainy. The missiles have an acrylic drop on the bottom which is still soft to the touch. 

The missile pylons also warped slightly. Thoughts?

[Mommar]

Why did you dunk them in Future?

 

I still need to order my arsenal.

Edited September 20, 2017 by Mommar

[Sildani]

Smooths out the surface. 

[Xigfrid]

3 hours ago, Sildani said:

Well, everything still looks grainy. The missiles have an acrylic drop on the bottom which is still soft to the touch. 

The missile pylons also warped slightly. Thoughts?

You should clean the drop once dry, spray with grey primer then sand the primer. Normally you should be good with a smooth surface.

About the warping, that's really weird: WSF is really strong material and heat resistant up to 90° or so: even under high temperature it should not warp. Can you take closer pictures of the warping? Was it arrived like this or did they warp during the drying period ?

 

 

[Mommar]

This is suddenly sounding like something I can't handle...

[Mommar]

Hey Xigfrid, I was looking at the Master File book tonight trying to figure out which loadouts I wanted to recreate and I think you got the length of the TMM 201's incorrect.  You should be able to attach them to the double length pylons just like the AMM 101's but it looks like the model for the TMM 201's are much longer.  If you look at pages 17, 36 and 37 of the Master File book there's clearly two sets of three TMM 201's on the double length pylons.

Edited September 21, 2017 by Mommar

[chyll2]

@Mommar

basically, 3D printed materials from Shapeway is Grainy. Printing in different material might lessen the grain or the 3D lines but it will still be there.

 

There are different ways to remove it and all requires filling the gaps (I used primer) caused by the 3D line/grains and later sanding. This will be done repeatedly until you are satisfied with the surface finish. Then that will be the time you will paint it.

 

It sound tedious but it might be because we are talking about AMM-101 but for other missile like the HM variant, clean up might be easier since you are only dealing with a pair of HM missile with flatter surface area.

[Xigfrid]

@Mommar you are right about the AMM-11250 (I think that's their correct name), they supposedly are the same length than the AMM 101 to fit the same dual or single pylons. But as @chyll2 nailed down the really reason why I dislike the AMM-101, is that they are small and require a lot of preparing work because of their small size.

I didn't have any request for the triangular missiles so I made them up to my taste: I preferred for my own sanity to make them longer and call them TMM 201 so I have only 6 missiles to paint instead of 12. They can be mounted on single pylons and still be displayed as if they have the exact same length as 6x "real" AMM-11250 on a dual pylon.

[Mommar]

I didn't realize that until I was flipping through the book last night and noticed the TMM's weren't in there.  I like the look of the smaller ones but I don't even have the time/skill to prep what's already available.  

[Xigfrid]

You should try the Pac-SwS missiles, they are very simple to polish. And Shapeways is offering free shipping on all orders >25$ !

[Mommar]

I wasn't looking for just anything to put on the hard points though.  If I was going to do that I'd reuse all of my 171 missiles.  I was looking for specific loadouts based on the images in the Master File book that I liked best.

[Sildani]

Here it is. 

 

[Xigfrid]

That's a slight warpping, you should fix it with a gentle massage by bending slightly the opposite way

[Sildani]

Ok good enough. I will massage then paint and report back. Thanks for the help Xigfrid!

[Sildani]

First coat of paint. 

[Xigfrid]

Looking already nice! Considering the small size of these parts, the grainy paint would be almost invisible