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Posted
6 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

You are so lucky to have these 2! Also  skilled and determined to be that lucky too ;) 

More determined rather than skilled. Painting all the markings were a PITA especially the tailfins.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Hopefully we can get official releases of these in the future. 

I'll add all the files I used for the lettering and the tailfin markings on the 1st post later on if anybody is gonna try doing these conversions. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Thanks! We shall see! :help: I keep coming back to this thread because I forgot what I did and need it for future reference. It's a good thing I took some pics!

Posted (edited)

Just made these 0B markings for the VF-0B SPW version (based on Hasegawa decals upscaled to fit 1:60 scale)

They are in PDF / vector format so they can be eventually processed to be made as water decals. link to download

VF0B.thumb.jpg.a195eb390f59c57f92ed27e685ffd145.jpg

Edited by Xigfrid
  • 1 month later...
Posted

This came today, this is the classic VF-0B in white/red accents Space Proving Wing version. 

I need to give my special thanks to wmkjr whose thread inspired me to make another VF-0B conversion, to spanner for letting go one of his invaluable VF-0D for a reasonable price, wmkjr for having the skills and courage to make another conversion and also for making such a good job at painting, sticker detailing, etc 

This VF-0B is one of my dream that became true thanks to this amazing community, and I am thankful to be part of it too. 

Until I make a true photo shoot, here are a few shots from my phone. Perhaps wmkjr has better ones too to share. 

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Posted

Glad it worked out for you. Thanks to your 3d modeling you gave us stuff that we could only dream of too. So far, you're the only one that I know that has the VF-0B in this scheme. As for pics, I have some but need to get it on the computer first. Here is one (I'll add more in the toys section later) wish I had a carrier deck:

35836329583_21ab05a3ec_b.jpg

Posted (edited)

Xigfrid, that looks amazing, the attention to detail is superb! 

Come on Arcadia, making a VF-0B is not impossible! 

Edited by 505thAirborne
Posted

Amazing work guys. Those are some beautiful birds.

I would never dream of trying that!

Posted

Someone needs to bring this to Arcadia's attention. This would be an easy cash grab for them, hell make it a web exclusive or something. It can'tbe that hard to work out the licensing with Hasegawa

Posted
On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 7:21 AM, wmkjr said:

Glad it worked out for you. Thanks to your 3d modeling you gave us stuff that we could only dream of too. So far, you're the only one that I know that has the VF-0B in this scheme. As for pics, I have some but need to get it on the computer first. Here is one (I'll add more in the toys section later) wish I had a carrier deck:

35836329583_21ab05a3ec_b.jpg

I love this!  :wub: 

What are you waiting for Arcadia?! 

 

Posted (edited)

Wouldn't they have to license that particular look though?  It's a Master File creation.

That being said, if I could write in Japanese I'd tweet it to Arcadia.

Edited by Mommar
Posted

Have we seen any Master File schemes done on any Arcadia or Yamato valks in the past?  I suppose the anniversary scheme might count, but that design was such clearance fodder, I hope the licensing for the scheme wasn't too expensive.

Licensing aside though, I get the feeling that the bigger issue would be playing mix-and-match with the production lines.  Depending on how the molds for each design are broken down, it's entirely possible that the only way to make a 0B or 0C run profitable would be to do both at once, so they have enough matching sets of the correct parts.

 

Posted

Xigfrid, you are a lucky, lucky man! And wow @wmkjr that is some amazing work there!

Questions for either of you:

  • Given this front section is cast in blue plastic (at least I think it is) did you have any issues getting the paint to look right/can you see any slight differences in the tone?
  • What sort of paint did you settle on?
  • Any issues with durability that you had to address with any special methods?
  • Did you clearcoat and if so, what did you go with?

I'm working on a few projects at the moment and have decided Lacquer paints are the best possible choice for durability.  However, I've been really surprised to find that most of the factory paint comes off with Gundam Marker eraser, which I think is just alcohol based thinner, suggesting the paints are actually just regular old acrylics. I'm also having all sorts of trouble with metallic paints.  The ones that look the most realistic are also the ones that seem the least durable - as in, they rub off with the slightest touch.  Finding that perfect balance between durability and quality seems to be very challenging.

Posted
2 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

Tried to make better pictures, but I have to say that they can't compared to wmkjr's

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So pretty. :wub:

 

 

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, mickyg said:

Xigfrid, you are a lucky, lucky man! And wow @wmkjr that is some amazing work there!

Questions for either of you:

  • Given this front section is cast in blue plastic (at least I think it is) did you have any issues getting the paint to look right/can you see any slight differences in the tone?
  • What sort of paint did you settle on?
  • Any issues with durability that you had to address with any special methods?
  • Did you clearcoat and if so, what did you go with?

I'll try to answer your questions. 

The front section is blue. t entire valk was 1st wiped with Simple green on a microfiber cloth, dried,  then hit with a couple coats of Tamiya White Primer. I sprayed at least 2 coats of paint after giving it a mist base coat. I couldn't tell of any difference in tone though my eyes are bad so maybe there was some.

I used Tamiya sprays for this. Tamiya AS-20 Insignia white, TS-8 Italian red, TS-63 Nato black, and Tamiya Fine Primer grey for the back of the legs was used for this valk. TS-13 Clear then TS-79 Semi Clear was the clears.

These Can Sprays seam pretty scratch resistant to me but that's just my own opinion. The only place that was giving me a hard time was the pitot tubes as for some reason the paints didn't want to stick on. Maybe it's a different type of plastic used. I think I should've used some fine sandpaper first to give it some bite.  

The 001s, red triangles, intake warnings and tail emblems were waterslide decals. The rest was sprayed using vinyl stencils or taped off.

Edited by wmkjr
Posted

Super helpful wmkjr.  Thanks a bunch!

The Tamiya sprays are lacquers and while I'm not sure if they're identical to the Gunze Mr Color range that I'll be using for my own projects, I'd say they're likely close enough that I can expect similar results.

Really nicely done on this project!

Posted
10 hours ago, mickyg said:

Xigfrid, you are a lucky, lucky man! And wow @wmkjr that is some amazing work there!

Questions for either of you:

  • Given this front section is cast in blue plastic (at least I think it is) did you have any issues getting the paint to look right/can you see any slight differences in the tone?
  • What sort of paint did you settle on?
  • Any issues with durability that you had to address with any special methods?
  • Did you clearcoat and if so, what did you go with?

I'm working on a few projects at the moment and have decided Lacquer paints are the best possible choice for durability.  However, I've been really surprised to find that most of the factory paint comes off with Gundam Marker eraser, which I think is just alcohol based thinner, suggesting the paints are actually just regular old acrylics. I'm also having all sorts of trouble with metallic paints.  The ones that look the most realistic are also the ones that seem the least durable - as in, they rub off with the slightest touch.  Finding that perfect balance between durability and quality seems to be very challenging.

Thanks mickyg, and I am also a very happy man!

I wanted to add that there is absolutely no difference of hues, and that was a pleasant surprise for me knowing how difficult it is to repaint such a dark color as the 0D blue.

If the Gundam eraser is alcohol based, that's normal it will wipe the Tamiya Lacquer paints since this is the only good way to remove the paint, I tried white spirit, enamel solvent, nothing really  worked except a bit of alcohol on a paper tissu.

I love Gunze paints, even if they are acrylic based, they are so easy to brush paint. I recently began to switch to Tamiya acrylic since Gunze will react with Tamiya clear sprays. Gunze are not supposed to reacts but I can't find what is the issue, perhaps this is specific to Gunze paint formula in Europe.

For metallic paints, I would prefer to have the Tamiya spray version if available (sometime the metallic bits can be to big to my taste in Tamiyas sprays), if not I have been successful with using enamel metallic paint + satine or gloss acrylic coat to protect it

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

Tried to make better pictures, but I have to say that they can't compared to wmkjr's

 

Both of you ...... :good::good:....

Cmon Arcadia...dont think about it...just release more M0 valks!!!

Edited by seti88
Posted

So, I believe the VF-0 pitot tubes are cast in POM, same as the VT-1's pack probe, and the old Yamato YF-19's canards.  It's just a notoriously paint-resistant material.  It may have been much easier to just wrap something like pinstriping tape around the pitot for the stripes.

Posted

She's not mine, I just found this while looking for VF-0B schemes... thought everyone might like it as much as I do...

Image result for vf-0b

Image result for vf-0b + ghost

Here's the website of the person responsible for this beauty

  • 1 month later...

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