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Posted

Decanting Tamiya's and then airbrushing them is the absolute best way to do things. It's just fantastic through an airbrush, and no thinning required! I've only tried it with the TS line however, which is lacquer based.

Posted

Annoyingly, no. Testor's often does the same, with many "spray-only" colors, which makes it difficult to paint small parts/do touch-ups, as you can't buy the same color in a jar.

Posted

That tears it... I'm going to have to make my own decanting frame if I'm going to do this with any frequency. Also going to have to figure out how to mix the same colors using various other paints as I don't like acrylics.

I think for the time being, I'm going to have to cheat and use the stock Testors colors that I already have. I can live with that for these little models.

Since we're on the subject - I've never seen anyone on Youtube decant the way I do:

  1. Turn the can upside-down and depress the nozzle until all of the propellant has been released.
  2. While depressing the nozzle of the can which is still upside down, use a can opener on the bottom of the can. Use the kind of can opener that gives a nice cut so there are no sharp edges.
  3. Pull the bottom of the can off.
  4. DONE.

This can actually be done pretty easily if you've got a friend.

Posted

all I can say is that the jars are normally Acrylic based paint and no thinning required for airbrushing which gives you amazing control on just how much paint you really want to put on your plastic. While spray can is laquer based and you have zero control of how much paint you want to apply on your plastic, it's just gonna come out in 1 hard spray which can cause some issues.
And pricing....it's a better investment for the jars and an airbrush with paint that'll last much longer than the cans.

Posted

That's why I'm talking about decanting. I can't get the color I want in a jar - acrylic or otherwise. Decanting lacquer paint from a can gives me more paint, airbrush ready paint, the color I want, no tip dry and a nice contact high. It's a win-win. It's even cheaper if you can find a can of real paint at the hardware store.

By the way, Tamiya's AS paint description says they're "synthetic lacquers".

Posted

I just got back from Home Depot with 2 cans of Rust-oleum. Hope to get some 1/55's M&M- ified. I'm hoping to have one done in a month or so and will be using an airbrush for the first time so wish me luck.

Posted

You're best bet is to decant. I never got the right finish even using a jar of black to touch up a model painted with spray black.

I'm too lazy to decant though so I just use tamiya acryl with the same brand thinner at a 1:1 dilution. It hasn't failed me yet and the acryls are so easy to clean. I just use rubbing alcohol

Posted (edited)

That's why I'm talking about decanting. I can't get the color I want in a jar - acrylic or otherwise. Decanting lacquer paint from a can gives me more paint, airbrush ready paint, the color I want, no tip dry and a nice contact high. It's a win-win. It's even cheaper if you can find a can of real paint at the hardware store.

By the way, Tamiya's AS paint description says they're "synthetic lacquers".

I know your probably joking, but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE use a respirator when doing ANYTHING with lacquer or enamel paints! Trust me, you don't want the headaches.

Edited by derex3592
Posted

In the past I sprayed Tamiya lacquers outside in the backyard with a lite breeze and even then it was a bit overwhelming. I also had to let some paint I decanted breath for over an hour before I messed with it. Even this it was still fizzing.

Posted

I know your probably joking, but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE use a respirator when doing ANYTHING with lacquer or enamel paints! Trust me, you don't want the headaches.

Yes, I'm joking. But don't kid yourself - you need a respirator for water based acrylics as well. They're just as bad for you.

In the past I sprayed Tamiya lacquers outside in the backyard with a lite breeze and even then it was a bit overwhelming. I also had to let some paint I decanted breath for over an hour before I messed with it. Even this it was still fizzing.

Yeah, it takes a while to get the propellant out of the paint.

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