Anybody have a 1/72 vf-1 bandai kit to throw away? Need

[Gatsu]

Guys, is there somebody who has a bandai 1/72 vf1 model kit to trow away? I'd need a canopy glass for my vf1, and a truster of the fast packs, unluchily...

Completed mine, but the canopy is ruined and a thruster is missing, dont know why, maybe it fell off or it was missing in the runner

This is my work, as you can see the glass is matted.

[NZEOD]

Do you have an Hasegawa parts? I have a couple of unbuilt brand new Bandai's I'm intending to use for scratch build parts and wreckage scenes so could trade.

Missiles, pilots, VF-1D canopy, Beam Cannon bits, anything really.

Edited June 6, 2016 by NZEOD

[Gatsu]

Good i m contacting you privately.

[pengbuzz]

I usually polish my canopies, maybe I can be of assistance here.

If the canopy is matted due to overspray from clearcoat or sanding, here's what to do:

1) clean the canopy with rubbing alcohol (90 percent Isopropyl alcohol works best). See if that removes the clouding. If not, proceed to thenenxt step:

2) polish with #0000 grade steel wool

3) polish with toothpaste (sounds silly, but it works, no particular brand is needed)

4) polish with facial tissue

5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

This should make tha canopy CRYSTAL CLEAR.

Hope this helps!

-PB

Edited June 7, 2016 by pengbuzz

[Gatsu]

Hi. I noticed now that i should have posted this topic in the wanted section... anyway.. Thanks for the suggestion (facial tissue??) in fact this is what happened: i uised the masking film to paint the black staff in the canopy glass but when i removed the film i noticed that it had left some glue on the plastic... nothing worked, i tried alcohol to clean it but nothing. I had the terrihble idea of using a bit of nitro thinking the nitro required some time to corrode the plastic. Instead the nitro corroded it in 1 second, So i used the ultra fine abrasive paper to smooth the surface and then i spraied clear gloss. This is the best result i was able to achieve, the glass was totally matte before the treatment i did.

[pengbuzz]

Okay, thanks for the explanation on that Gatsu. The cockpit is still salvageable: for the future though, NEVER use clear gloss on it. It'll craze and fuzz the canopy.

How to save it:

1) wet-sand the canopy with 6000 grit sanding film

2) wet-sand with 12000 grit sanding film

3) polish the canopy with #0000 steel wool

4) polish the canopy with toothpaste

5) polish the canopy with kleenix

6) 5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

I've used this process on "unsalvageable" canopies, and even when molding my own and removing distortions from them. I hope this is of some help to you. BTW: let me know if you cannot salvage it, i may be able to help.

[Gatsu]

Okay, thanks for the explanation on that Gatsu. The cockpit is still salvageable: for the future though, NEVER use clear gloss on it. It'll craze and fuzz the canopy.

How to save it:

1) wet-sand the canopy with 6000 grit sanding film

2) wet-sand with 12000 grit sanding film

3) polish the canopy with #0000 steel wool

4) polish the canopy with toothpaste

5) polish the canopy with kleenix

6) 5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

I've used this process on "unsalvageable" canopies, and even when molding my own and removing distortions from them. I hope this is of some help to you. BTW: let me know if you cannot salvage it, i may be able to help.

Thanks for the suggetsion, I already had a problem with the clear canopy joint that crack over time in the yamato's... i did realize it was fault of the clear gloss paint... i wonder what kind of plastic is generally used on clear plastic parts and why is so sensible to some materials... anyway as i put decals on it or paint i need to protect it with clear spray paint, my intention was as i said to protect all clear parts and to spray only the small black painted part of the canopy but that bloody adesive masking tape left some glue on it. Th eproblem is that it was the internal and concave surface of the canopy were sanding with abrasive paper is extremely difficult...

Also i wonder if there is a issue with masking tape that sometimes ruins the paint were it s attached.... maybe it expires after some time from the purchase??

P.S. I ve been able to find in hardware store just the 1000P abrasive paper, no way they have finer one.. 12000??? Never known it existed...

Edited June 9, 2016 by Gatsu

[NZEOD]

headlight polishing compound and a Qtip

Edited June 9, 2016 by NZEOD

[pengbuzz]

Thanks for the suggetsion, I already had a problem with the clear canopy joint that crack over time in the yamato's... i did realize it was fault of the clear gloss paint... i wonder what kind of plastic is generally used on clear plastic parts and why is so sensible to some materials... anyway as i put decals on it or paint i need to protect it with clear spray paint, my intention was as i said to protect all clear parts and to spray only the small black painted part of the canopy but that bloody adesive masking tape left some glue on it. Th eproblem is that it was the internal and concave surface of the canopy were sanding with abrasive paper is extremely difficult...

Also i wonder if there is a issue with masking tape that sometimes ruins the paint were it s attached.... maybe it expires after some time from the purchase??

P.S. I ve been able to find in hardware store just the 1000P abrasive paper, no way they have finer one.. 12000??? Never known it existed...

Hobby shops carry them. And I think I may have put one too many zeroes in lol

THe plastic used in canopies for models is styrene, but it has no color elements in it. That makes them more fragile and apt to crack.

Edited June 9, 2016 by pengbuzz

[arbit]

I usually polish my canopies, maybe I can be of assistance here.

If the canopy is matted due to overspray from clearcoat or sanding, here's what to do:

1) clean the canopy with rubbing alcohol (90 percent Isopropyl alcohol works best). See if that removes the clouding. If not, proceed to thenenxt step:

2) polish with #0000 grade steel wool

3) polish with toothpaste (sounds silly, but it works, no particular brand is needed)

4) polish with facial tissue

5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

This should make tha canopy CRYSTAL CLEAR.

Hope this helps!

-PB

I've been using the toothpaste polish trick. It works wonders on any mess ups. Even helped fix some super glue I accidentally dropped on a bit of my model.

[Gatsu]

Is tamiya enamel thinner corrosive on styrene?

[pengbuzz]

Most thinners I know of that dissolve enamels will attack styrene as well; I learned that the hard way on a model that was almost a total loss due to using enamel thinner to strip paint from it.

[Gatsu]

Most thinners I know of that dissolve enamels will attack styrene as well; I learned that the hard way on a model that was almost a total loss due to using enamel thinner to strip paint from it.

So how coould i remove tamiya clear enamel from styrene if i can t use enamel thinner?

[Big s]

I have had some luck removing enamel paints in small spots with just a clean rubber pencil eraser. Enamel paints don't stick as well as other paints, but when painting clear parts especially thin frames it's always a bit scary.

[pengbuzz]

So how coould i remove tamiya clear enamel from styrene if i can t use enamel thinner?

I would just polish it without removing the clear enamel. You see, clear materials work by letting light pass through them; when the clear enamel attacked the canopy you have, it caused a rough texture on the microscopic level that catches light rather than lets it pass through.

To explain further: anything with a "flat" (non-reflective) surface looks at the microscopic level like sandpaper. Smooth surfaces at that level are mostly smooth and flat. The "clear" you used partially crazed the plastic at that level, and more thinner will do the same (paint contains an amount of thinner, that's how it is dissolved and dries when applied).

So what does all this mean for you then? That rather than chemically trying to remove it, just polish the canopy until you get past the clear enamel layer and start to optically smooth the clear plastic. I know 90 percent rubbing alcohol can remove Krylon in enough applications, but I'm not sure about Tamiya (not to mention you tried alcohol once and it fogged the canopy, if memory serves).You're probably best off sanding it with ultra-fine sandpaper and polishing it from there (if you want to preserve the current canopy).

[Gatsu]

(not to mention you tried alcohol once and it fogged the canopy, if memory serves)

No i never told that... i said that the masking tape glue fogged the canopy and alcohol didn t remove it.

[Gatsu]

Okay, thanks for the explanation on that Gatsu. The cockpit is still salvageable: for the future though, NEVER use clear gloss on it. It'll craze and fuzz the canopy.

How to save it:

1) wet-sand the canopy with 6000 grit sanding film

2) wet-sand with 12000 grit sanding film

3) polish the canopy with #0000 steel wool

4) polish the canopy with toothpaste

5) polish the canopy with kleenix

6) 5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

I've used this process on "unsalvageable" canopies, and even when molding my own and removing distortions from them. I hope this is of some help to you. BTW: let me know if you cannot salvage it, i may be able to help.

You know the part that is matted is the internal part of the glass, so i don t know if i can sand it well.... do you have other way to help me man?

[Big s]

If it's on the inside you could try a high grit sanding film rather than thick paper. The films aren't better than paper most of the time, but the films can conform better to difficult spots.

Either way don't give up.

[Gatsu]

If it's on the inside you could try a high grit sanding film rather than thick paper. The films aren't better than paper most of the time, but the films can conform better to difficult spots.

Either way don't give up.

Ok, if my knowledge of english is decent a "film" is something that should be attached to something else. How can a film by itself alone sand anything??

And anyway: how can i obtain just by sanding (without spraying any gloss clear) a shining gloss surface??

Edited June 28, 2016 by Gatsu

[Big s]

There are companies that make sanding films. I think testors makes some. They are like sand paper with a super thin plastic or resin backing and are very flexible.

If you use a high grit you can sand a clear piece very smooth and may be able to clean up the fog. Then you can try a thinned gloss. You will probably want to use an acrylic based gloss so it can be thinned with water.

I've been having a hard time finding future floor wax lately. It changes names and brands, I think it's now pledge with future shine or something, but that can work well to since it can be thinned with water.

After the sanding you can also try to polish the plastic, some people recommend normal white toothpaste.

I forgot to mention you may be able to get a good high grit sanding film at an auto parts store, preferably one that has auto paints, they may also have good polishing products as well.

Edited June 29, 2016 by Big s

[Gatsu]

i found at a local store a lights polishing product that as the seller claim makes shiny the cars lights clear plastic parts, but i didn t know if the plastic of car parts is the same as styrene

[Big s]

It's not styrene, but will probably be fine. You can test it on a clear piece of sprue before using to be safe.

[Vifam7]

You know the part that is matted is the internal part of the glass, so i don t know if i can sand it well.... do you have other way to help me man?

Try using Tamiya polishing compound. It's sorta like sandpaper as a paste. This stuff is specifically made for polishing up canopies of model aircraft. It's an abrasive so it should remove the matt coat you sprayed on.

Dab a bit on a Q-tip and rub away. Start with "coarse" paste then move to "fine" paste.

[Gatsu]

Ok, what i need to know here is this: Is here nobody who has a replacement part to sell or not?

[Big s]

I think everyone is hinting at "no" one the extra part. But the fix may not be too dificult, just gotta learn a new skill.

[Gatsu]

i know but buying the 'fixing' materials could be more expensive than a replacement part

[kajnrig]

Unless you live in Japan, getting a spare part will be fairly expensive, too. HLJ and (I think) Amiami used to offer parts replacement services, but I'm not sure if they still do. I know HLJ doesn't anymore. Maybe GG Infinite does? Proxy services (can't think of any off the top of my head, sorry) also tend to offer a replacement parts ordering service, for a markup on top of a service fee.

...your best bet at this point might be to buy an entire kit, filch the canopy, and sell the rest. If it can go into battroid mode without the need for the canopy, I might be interested in buying it off of you.

[Gatsu]

I can t find results as 'sanding films', are "lapping films" the same??

Are these ok ? http://www.alphaabrasives.com/hobby-abrasives.php they ask insane shipping fees, no way i can find testors film finer than 600. seems like these sanding film are unavailable everywhere

Edited July 7, 2016 by Gatsu

[Gatsu]

Found also these: http://hlj.com/product/GNZGT62 http://hlj.com/product/MNEO-7E http://hlj.com/product/MNEO-7C

i don t understand if they are ok, no way i can find them in europe

Edited July 7, 2016 by Gatsu

[Gatsu]

Okay, thanks for the explanation on that Gatsu. The cockpit is still salvageable: for the future though, NEVER use clear gloss on it. It'll craze and fuzz the canopy.

How to save it:

1) wet-sand the canopy with 6000 grit sanding film

2) wet-sand with 12000 grit sanding film

3) polish the canopy with #0000 steel wool

4) polish the canopy with toothpaste

5) polish the canopy with kleenix

6) 5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

I've used this process on "unsalvageable" canopies, and even when molding my own and removing distortions from them. I hope this is of some help to you. BTW: let me know if you cannot salvage it, i may be able to help.

I wait your response to know what to do man. i found these http://www.ebay.it/itm/231452049390?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT on ebay, are they ok? Also, i live in Europe and i can not find the products you find in the USA stores. Is any kind of floor wax ok??

Edited July 26, 2016 by Gatsu

[Big s]

As far as sanding/polishing materials check your local hobby shops or automotive parts shops. Auto parts shops often have products for painting and polishing as well as sanding products.

[Gatsu]

I already did it. but the material used for car lights clear plastic parts maybe is not the same then bandai model kits. i do not intend to risk. Tamiya as well produce a kind of wax for polishing use but nobody sell it in my city.

[Gatsu]

Okay, thanks for the explanation on that Gatsu. The cockpit is still salvageable: for the future though, NEVER use clear gloss on it. It'll craze and fuzz the canopy.

How to save it:

1) wet-sand the canopy with 6000 grit sanding film

2) wet-sand with 12000 grit sanding film

3) polish the canopy with #0000 steel wool

4) polish the canopy with toothpaste

5) polish the canopy with kleenix

6) 5) Dip canopy in Pledge floor wax with Future finish.

I've used this process on "unsalvageable" canopies, and even when molding my own and removing distortions from them. I hope this is of some help to you. BTW: let me know if you cannot salvage it, i may be able to help.

Pengbuzz i'm still waiting your response after i spent money on ebay for a few lapping films.

[Gatsu]

It seems Pengbuzz blocked private message communication from me without any previous message exchanged. This is not a way to help, giving approximative instructions without details to somebody unexperienced and that could obtain a damage from trying to follow them. In my opinion if you want to offer help to somebody do it well, otherwise don t do it at all. Thanks anyway to other guys who responded, but the issue is unfixed.

[NZEOD]

Tread very carefully here... His answer to your question HAS been helpful AND detailed. You come across as rather demanding and less than appreciative of any help offered no matter what it is. You did the same with me wanting better scans than what I could provide of decals for your screw ups on your Wave Destroid.

I'd guess he has less patience for you than I do after reading the above demands for answers.

The floor polish is an acrylic based clear coat. So go ask at a flooring place in Europe for just that, an Acrylic based floor clear coat/polish. THAT product will be the same as Future (USA)/Krystal Klear (Aus/NZ)/Pledge (UK) and what ever they call it in Asia

Your canopy is wreaked as it is right now. Take the advise and start sanding it. Or dont. There is little more this community can do to help you with this mistake beyond all the advise you already have recieved.

Edited July 28, 2016 by NZEOD