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Posted

The size of this thing still boggles the mind.  I don't live in big house or anything, but I can't imagine how much real estate these things hog up in smaller apartments, lol!

 

Posted
17 hours ago, peter said:

The size of this thing still boggles the mind.  I don't live in big house or anything, but I can't imagine how much real estate these things hog up in smaller apartments, lol!

 

I'm setting aside a nice chunk of space in my home office so I can put the Fighter and Gerwalk kits next to each other. I'm also leaving room for a Battroid kit so all three modes can be displayed in sequence. That kit hasn't been announced yet, and we don't know if Max Factory will do one, but I really hope so. It might take another four years, though, and as discussed previously in this thread, it would require all new molds if they want to stay close to the line art (different proportions). Might be too costly....

Posted
On 10/17/2019 at 9:31 PM, TMBounty_Hunter said:

Official product page: https://www.goodsmile.info/ja/product/8904/PLAMAX+MF+45+minimum+factory+VF+1+ファイター+バルキリー.html

First announcement: February 2016

Finally released: March 2020

Though they did get sidetracked a bit....

 

EDIT: Blogpost of runners

https://plamax.exblog.jp/30834546/

I broke down and pre-ordered one from HLJ. I'm thinking that I'll turn it into a Cannon Fodder, maybe display it at work. I've always had a soft spot for the CF and it doesn't get nearly enough love.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

This guy is extending his 1/20 into a 2-seater 1D. Amazing stuff.

 

Posted

Wonder if the 2nd figure is gonna be Misa from DYRL or Minmay from SDF?

Posted

I saw that VF-1D build and it bothers me slightly that he's making the same mistake that Arii did with their kit. They just added a two seat cockpit onto a regular VF-1A/J/S body when the double cockpit is supposed to extend backwards into the body and keeping overall length the same.

0oH4WA8.jpg IwXpR7J.jpg

 

Extra Long Arii version:
Zdf9bNr.jpg

 

That Arii kit was my first attempt at any Macross kit, I though it would be a quick and easy straight build but once I noticed this I started modifying endlessly to the point where it's just sitting back in its box half done.....

Posted

Is the VT-1 the same as the VF-1D? Maybe he's converting to one of those. If that's supposed to be Misa in the second seat it kinda makes sense, but the canopy of the VT-1 is pretty different from the  VF-1D\VF-1, so you are probably right.

 

Posted

He mentions at the start of the video that it's the D, he carved off the DYRL shoulders from Hikaru and in the latest tweet in the background you can see he gave Minmay the helmet already.

 

 

As for the VT-1, the cockpit isn't as long so it doesn't extend that far back but the panel detail on the body still changes. It also has a differently shaped canopy frame.

Posted (edited)

Yeah, just watching his other videos now. it's definitely the D.

So who's gonna get one of these and convert it to a VT-1, or VE-1? any takers? :shok:;)

Edited by Chas
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

That's not camo, that's the pre-shading. That style is pretty popular with Ma. K stuff. Max has done it previously with his Shizuoka Hobby Show valk build.

 

 

EDIT: Whoops, wasn't Shizuoka. It was Wonderfestival Winter

 

 

Edited by TMBounty_Hunter
Posted
2 hours ago, tekering said:

Oh, his camouflage scheme looks more like a remedial art school project.  :blink:

EL59zCSU8AAy5ku.jpg

EL59zCYU4AUawLw.jpg

EL59zCVVUAAr0OM.jpg

 

I'm glad he fixed the head lasers on the 1S.  In fighter and Gerwalk, they were way too thin and close together.

 

Posted
14 hours ago, tekering said:

Oh, his camouflage scheme looks more like a remedial art school project.  :blink:

EL59zCSU8AAy5ku.jpg

EL59zCYU4AUawLw.jpg

EL59zCVVUAAr0OM.jpg

 

I know is Max Watanabe and all that, but I really don't like the scheme. 

Posted

Guys, for the 2nd time, it's just the pre-shading
 

 

 

The whole point is to give you a much greater tonal variance to your colors than just white/grey/black pre-shading allows.

Here's another example:
A8n1hQK.jpg

zRoLSdM.jpg

mtmH1Gb.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, TMBounty_Hunter said:

Guys, for the 2nd time, it's just the pre-shading

The whole point is to give you a much greater tonal variance to your colors than just white/grey/black pre-shading allows.

The tonal pre-shading thing I get, and I can appreciate the effect it gives, but I'm far more baffled by the fact that the entire thing looks permanently assembled before final painting.  I have to assume it's only pinned together, and can all be separated out to actually apply proper colors, because otherwise painting things like the feet and missile pods is going to be a miserable process.

Posted

Or he's going for that used, battle worn look.  Never heard of that guy who painted his AR and threw it down his driveway?  :)

Posted

Willing to bet that there's no top coat. I doubt he throws them, but after decades in this business he probably doesn't baby his work the way we do. And he probably brings a bit of paint for touch ups in case something gets dinged.

Posted
On 12/18/2019 at 3:04 AM, electric indigo said:

Pro tip #5: After painstakingly painting the parts over the course of a few days, throw them randomly into a box on the floor...

I mean look, when your "model" is the size of a small child...

Posted
On 12/17/2019 at 6:34 AM, TMBounty_Hunter said:

Guys, for the 2nd time, it's just the pre-shading
 

 

 

The whole point is to give you a much greater tonal variance to your colors than just white/grey/black pre-shading allows.

Here's another example:
A8n1hQK.jpg

zRoLSdM.jpg

mtmH1Gb.jpg

I'm interested in using this technique, but am baffled about the correct way to go about doing it... I tried it a couple times, but each time the top color just completely covers the "pre-shading" variance... does it work better with lacquers, or acrylic? or do I just have to thin the heck out of the top base coat color? Any help/step-by-step would be much appreciated! 

Posted
On 12/21/2019 at 9:20 PM, milhouse said:

I'm interested in using this technique, but am baffled about the correct way to go about doing it... I tried it a couple times, but each time the top color just completely covers the "pre-shading" variance... does it work better with lacquers, or acrylic? or do I just have to thin the heck out of the top base coat color? Any help/step-by-step would be much appreciated! 

I have not tried this myself, but a greater amount of thinner should do the trick. Alternatively, you can mix the base color with a clear medium like varnish to reduce the opacity of the paint.

Posted

Honestly, if you’re going to try it just practice doing light passes when you coat it. If it has clear mixed in it would probably show too much of the psychedelic rainbow under coat. Practice on some simple plastic spoons before a main project.

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