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Bandai Sv-262 DX valk


seti88

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22 hours ago, Kinzoku VF said:

Again on these close up transformation pics, you can see stress marks appearing around hinges etc.These dark blue plastics really are worse, as they have a tendency to be more apparent. Some of the old Yamatos 1/60 (YF-21 and others) suffer from the same issue being a darkish blue, the whitening and stress marks from transformation tend to pop a lot more.

All the more reason to wait for a white Roid version.  :) 

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ohh man...that sucks. Mine had one tiny tiny spot right on the edge, so not noticeable really, but you're not the first who has encountered that bad of a problem...only Bandai could screw up something while trying to protect something from getting screwed up! 

Edited by derex3592
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Yeah, I wish my spot was on the white as that is much easier, my one tiny spot was on the coppery gold which would be a really hard match especially trying to get the metallic flecks orientated in the right direction as the original paintwork.  Mine was also in the Private Warehouse, I wonder if it has anything to do with being stored/transported in heat, my guess is that the heat would cause the film to bond with the printing.

 

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On 28/03/2017 at 2:29 AM, wm cheng said:

Hey anyone with a link to the Transformation Manual in PDF?  Bandai often puts them up on their site but can't seem to find one for this.

Wondering about this too.  I want to keep my owner's manual sealed and read the online version.  I know there was one for the VF-19A but can't even find that anymore.

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On 3/27/2017 at 5:29 AM, wm cheng said:

Hey anyone with a link to the Transformation Manual in PDF?  Bandai often puts them up on their site but can't seem to find one for this.

 

2 hours ago, mickyg said:

Wondering about this too.  I want to keep my owner's manual sealed and read the online version.  I know there was one for the VF-19A but can't even find that anymore.

For the SV-262:

http://bandainamco-bcpombucket1.s3.amazonaws.com/docs/answers/url/4549660087496.pdf

Some kind of precaution about the hands:

http://support.bandai.co.jp/ci/fattach/get/70/1490317713/redirect/1/filename/DX超合金 ドラケンⅢ注意喚起画像.pdf

Instructions for some of them I think:

http://support.bandai.co.jp/app/answers/list/st/5/p/75/mokuteki/4/page/1

Edited by wmkjr
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4 hours ago, wm cheng said:

Yeah, I wish my spot was on the white as that is much easier, my one tiny spot was on the coppery gold which would be a really hard match especially trying to get the metallic flecks orientated in the right direction as the original paintwork.  Mine was also in the Private Warehouse, I wonder if it has anything to do with being stored/transported in heat, my guess is that the heat would cause the film to bond with the printing.

 

I didn't think about the paint flecks orientation, but I need to give it a try anyway because of all the gold that came off mine during handling. I've sprayed metallic paint touchups on my car before and it didn't seem to have any different look to the factory paint so I'm hoping for the same results here.

I'm using this as my color guide, which I'm assuming/hoping Bandai also used (not necessarily the paint, but the colors) for the DX toys: http://www.mech9.com/2016/10/172-draken-iii-keith-aero-windermere.html

I ordered a bunch of Mr Hobby Aqueous paints for this and the VF-31.

 

I've got a 262 sitting in the HLJ warehouse waiting for the 31F to be released so I can ship them together to save a bit on shipping. I'm hoping that it will not have paint issues.

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1 hour ago, wmkjr said:

The thumb on mine broke off exactly like that, but not because I was trying to squeeze the hand back in for fighter mode. I had just put the gunpod in the hand and I was closing the fingers when the thumb just came right off. I was able to glue it back on with some plastiweld bondine, but that thumb is fragile as heck and can snap at the slightest pressure. It might just be safer to remove the hand entirely when transforming the valk to fighter mode, even with positioning the fingers properly.

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That's crazy to see the tampo coming off in splotches. I didn't know this was an issue, when I first got mine, this thought crossed my mind when opening it, and I lifted them slowly and softly. Don't know if that will help new arrivals, but mine was clear of taking any paint off.

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21 minutes ago, MacrossJunkie said:

I've got a 262 sitting in the HLJ warehouse waiting for the 31F to be released so I can ship them together to save a bit on shipping. I'm hoping that it will not have paint issues.

I'm in the same boat man. Since my last and only failed attempt at transforming my first SV-262, I'm gonna wait for the second one to see which is the better looking and transform the crap version.

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15 hours ago, valhary said:

I try the gundam kimaris (1/100) spear and not look bad at all because is almost the same blue maybe painted with a gold and gives more medieval knight appearance

IMG_2307.JPG

IMG_2308.JPG

IMG_2309.JPG

IMG_2316.JPG

Oh my....Thats EPIC! Have you tried with barbatos'es mace as well?:wub:^_^

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The tampo coming off had nothing to do with the speed/vigor in which the protective film was removed. I peeled one wing of slowly with no issue. Started peeling the second one off slowly, and the instant I saw specks lifting off I stopped without continuing to remove it, to grab my phone and take pics. The tampo was already clinging to the film in that pattern before I ever touched the film. This isn't user error.

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26 minutes ago, ChaoticYeti said:

The tampo coming off had nothing to do with the speed/vigor in which the protective film was removed. I peeled one wing of slowly with no issue. Started peeling the second one off slowly, and the instant I saw specks lifting off I stopped without continuing to remove it, to grab my phone and take pics. The tampo was already clinging to the film in that pattern before I ever touched the film. This isn't user error.

Seems like this is something that is either going to happen or it's not regardless of how the film has been removed or how long it's sitting somewhere.

Their paint and tampo prints are simply not adhering properly.

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Sounds like some residual glue could have been left-over on the tampo pad, after it lifted off the print of the previous assembly line.
Since the draken is heavily tampoed, it could be a sign of overuse of the tampo machine.

But i think yeti drew the short straw on that one.

My drakens are incoming, so will check it as well as soon as customs releases it....sigh....

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Am not sure if its that widespread of an issue, there are error tolerances for every conceivable release. 
Doesn't mean every batch will have the issue, but am not glossing over the fact either that it is acceptable.

Yeti, did you get it from HLJ? Dont forget abt the 10 day window. 

Btw, noel, since you highlighted the 10 day HLJ window b4, i forget, was it 10 days after it shipped or.....

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1 minute ago, chyll2 said:

keeping it MISB might be a bad idea since there is that tendency that whatever agent is it on the film, might dry and the tampo might stick on the film.

 

Anyway, NY adjusted the price BACK to 22,000 yen

Breaking MISB could also be an over-reaction if it wasn't widespread problem....heywhatchagonnado... 

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1 hour ago, ChaoticYeti said:

The tampo coming off had nothing to do with the speed/vigor in which the protective film was removed. I peeled one wing of slowly with no issue. Started peeling the second one off slowly, and the instant I saw specks lifting off I stopped without continuing to remove it, to grab my phone and take pics. The tampo was already clinging to the film in that pattern before I ever touched the film. This isn't user error.

 

1 hour ago, MacrossJunkie said:

Seems like this is something that is either going to happen or it's not regardless of how the film has been removed or how long it's sitting somewhere.

Their paint and tampo prints are simply not adhering properly.

 Yes, I was super careful after reading about it in these forums, and I could see the spot that lifted on the gold before I even peeled it back.  It must be something in the curing or storing of the toy afterwards and its definitely not user error.

 

MJ, I find that one can usually tell with metallics (especially with cars because the flakes are so big) - maybe I'm just too anal (I've been told that before :P)  I just can't imagine buying gold and copper just to fix a tiny spot though - argh, its not like I ever use those colours in my modeling. 

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53 minutes ago, seti88 said:

Am not sure if its that widespread of an issue, there are error tolerances for every conceivable release. 
Doesn't mean every batch will have the issue, but am not glossing over the fact either that it is acceptable.

Yeti, did you get it from HLJ? Dont forget abt the 10 day window. 

Btw, noel, since you highlighted the 10 day HLJ window b4, i forget, was it 10 days after it shipped or.....

Hey Seti. I think 10 day starts the moment you receive the item. Whether you receive it personally or from your work shipping department. And inform them ASAP if you see some defects.

 

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2 hours ago, ChaoticYeti said:

The tampo coming off had nothing to do with the speed/vigor in which the protective film was removed. I peeled one wing of slowly with no issue. Started peeling the second one off slowly, and the instant I saw specks lifting off I stopped without continuing to remove it, to grab my phone and take pics. The tampo was already clinging to the film in that pattern before I ever touched the film. This isn't user error.

I'm still waiting for my sv-262 to arrive, but I have seen something like this happen with third-party transformers which use protective plastic to protect painted parts. I wish I still had the pictures, but I had a copy of Spark Toys Alpha Pack (War Within Optimus Prime) that had a paint peeling issue. When taking off the protective plastic, it also pulled off a thin layer of the paint. I'm not sure what caused the problem though. I've received other toys both from overseas and from domestic suppliers that are wrapped in protective plastic, and these are fine.

It does make me suspicious of more clingy packaging materials, though.

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1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Hey Seti. I think 10 day starts the moment you receive the item. Whether you receive it personally or from your work shipping department. And inform them ASAP if you see some defects.

 

Thanks, just got lost in the details, always remembered that there was a 10 day window w HLJ.

I will probably check after my shipment is cleared from customs, first time its been in customs so long. The draken was packed together with the RA and few more items, which probably pushed the $ amount up..sigh...cmon peeps its just toys!

My HMR milla from NY already cleared customs despite arriving a day later.

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2 hours ago, wm cheng said:

 

 Yes, I was super careful after reading about it in these forums, and I could see the spot that lifted on the gold before I even peeled it back.  It must be something in the curing or storing of the toy afterwards and its definitely not user error.

 

MJ, I find that one can usually tell with metallics (especially with cars because the flakes are so big) - maybe I'm just too anal (I've been told that before :P)  I just can't imagine buying gold and copper just to fix a tiny spot though - argh, its not like I ever use those colours in my modeling. 

If I can't get the paint to blend in well, I feel like I might end up going down the rabbit hole of masking off whole sections and redoing the gold entirely. Hopefully it doesn't come to that...

The way I see it though, it is worth spending $6.80 for the gold and copper paint to try to fix the paint scratches and chips that are annoying the hell out of me on a $200+ toy.

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quick question for those that have them and opened it.  are the valks at all oily? i remember some of the early frontier era valks were oily (though it wasn't consistent chornologically etc) due to bandai and or its factory not removing mold release grease completely.  some error like that would also lead to paint not sticking well and it sucks to handle an oily valk too.  the only other thing i could think of as to why that tampo is coming off is that it simply wasn't cured yet when they applied the film....even more bone headed a move.  hopefully its just a small percentage with this issue.

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