aurance Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Aside from never touching it again, your could apply a clear coating just like you would on a model kit to protect decals.Hmm what kind of clear coat would you recommend? Thinking of trying a few stickers on my VF-19F... Quote
Lolicon Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Hmm what kind of clear coat would you recommend? Thinking of trying a few stickers on my VF-19F... I use Mr Super Clear (gloss) for protecting any decals I apply and I add a final layer of Mr Hobby Topcoat to even out the finish (gloss or flat, depending on the type of finish I want). However, the Yamato/Arcadia stickers are very durable so you're won't need to worry about damaging them during transformation, and as others have pointed out it's pretty rare for those stickers to curl up or come off once you've applied them. I wouldn't bother unless you just want a uniform finished throughout, then I would just use a layer of topcoat with the desired finish. Just be sure to mask off the canopy, sensors, anything you don't want to alter the finish on. Quote
arbit Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) Yeah, I've never had any of the Yamato or Arcadia stickers peel off. Though I would recommend (if you ever do this again) getting proficient in using an x-acto knife to trim the clear edges off. The decals look so much better trimmed properly. Good point. I did trim the tail fin decals and they look good. That was my priority. I thought I could get away without trimming the smaller decals, but as you can see they really show in close up. I use Mr Super Clear (gloss) for protecting any decals I apply and I add a final layer of Mr Hobby Topcoat to even out the finish (gloss or flat, depending on the type of finish I want). However, the Yamato/Arcadia stickers are very durable so you're won't need to worry about damaging them during transformation, and as others have pointed out it's pretty rare for those stickers to curl up or come off once you've applied them. I wouldn't bother unless you just want a uniform finished throughout, then I would just use a layer of topcoat with the desired finish. Just be sure to mask off the canopy, sensors, anything you don't want to alter the finish on. Thanks for the advice. I won't be coating these expensive valks any time soon, not with my painting skills anyway. My experience is with Bandai sticker decals, which don't adhere very well. Glad to hear that Yamato's are better. Encourages me to apply more, maybe on the YF-19 next. Edited August 9, 2016 by arbit Quote
aurance Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 I use Mr Super Clear (gloss) for protecting any decals I apply and I add a final layer of Mr Hobby Topcoat to even out the finish (gloss or flat, depending on the type of finish I want). However, the Yamato/Arcadia stickers are very durable so you're won't need to worry about damaging them during transformation, and as others have pointed out it's pretty rare for those stickers to curl up or come off once you've applied them. I wouldn't bother unless you just want a uniform finished throughout, then I would just use a layer of topcoat with the desired finish. Just be sure to mask off the canopy, sensors, anything you don't want to alter the finish on. That's good to hear, thanks! Quote
Valkyrie addict Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Same here, the old v1 valks stickers curled up with time, but all my v2 yammies stickers and onward valks have hold up nicely Quote
Mommar Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Good point. I did trim the tail fin decals and they look good. That was my priority. I thought I could get away without trimming the smaller decals, but as you can see they really show in close up. I'll be perfectly honest with you, despite getting much better at trimming decals and that I like being able to customize things the way I want I still can't use every decal they provide. That tiny skull you used for instance, there's too any little bumps and crevices that I wouldn't be able to trim properly and have it look good. I've left stuff like that off. Depending on the color of the Valk and color of the decal you can get away with more or less trimming as well. Quote
neko878 Posted September 19, 2016 Posted September 19, 2016 I want to paint various areas of the VF-4G in a yellow tone to try and match it up with FB. Any tips on masking? Are you guys using masking tape or masking liquid to cover up those small detailed parts? Quote
Lolicon Posted September 19, 2016 Posted September 19, 2016 I want to paint various areas of the VF-4G in a yellow tone to try and match it up with FB. Any tips on masking? Are you guys using masking tape or masking liquid to cover up those small detailed parts? Masking tape. Be sure to use masking tape that's meant for modeling, and not regular old masking tape you can buy anywhere. It's easier to work with and won't leave a sticky mess on your stuff. http://hlj.com/search/go?w=Tamiya%20masking%20tape Quote
no3Ljm Posted September 19, 2016 Posted September 19, 2016 I want to paint various areas of the VF-4G in a yellow tone to try and match it up with FB. Any tips on masking? Are you guys using masking tape or masking liquid to cover up those small detailed parts? Just don't use 'yellow' though. FB scheme is more in line with 'tan'. Quote
neko878 Posted September 20, 2016 Posted September 20, 2016 Masking tape. Be sure to use masking tape that's meant for modeling, and not regular old masking tape you can buy anywhere. It's easier to work with and won't leave a sticky mess on your stuff. http://hlj.com/search/go?w=Tamiya%20masking%20tape Just don't use 'yellow' though. FB scheme is more in line with 'tan'. Good tips! Thanks guys! Quote
Mazinger Posted September 20, 2016 Posted September 20, 2016 Masking tape. Be sure to use masking tape that's meant for modeling, and not regular old masking tape you can buy anywhere. It's easier to work with and won't leave a sticky mess on your stuff. http://hlj.com/search/go?w=Tamiya%20masking%20tape The amount of bleed through from real Tamiya tape versus house painting masking tape is like night/day. You still want to take your time applying it to make sure it is flush because every second spent applying it is at least a minute saved cleanup leaks. Quote
wm cheng Posted September 20, 2016 Posted September 20, 2016 Yep, nothing like Tamiya masking tape - worth every penny! That's what I use. Also a few tips, make sure your airbrush mixture isn't too wet/thin, spray in light overlapping pattern (more light coats rather than a single heavy wet one). Also try to always spray from the tape side towards the plastic side, never spray "into" towards the tape edge. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1154652 Quote
no3Ljm Posted September 20, 2016 Posted September 20, 2016 Yep, nothing like Tamiya masking tape - worth every penny! That's what I use. Also a few tips, make sure your airbrush mixture isn't too wet/thin, spray in light overlapping pattern (more light coats rather than a single heavy wet one). Also try to always spray from the tape side towards the plastic side, never spray "into" towards the tape edge. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1154652 That's good to know. Thanks for sharing this info, wmcheng. Quote
spanner Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 how good is the Tamiya masking tape when it comes to doing fine edges? or do you still need some kind of fine line stuff? I am going to give building that assembly kit I have a go but don't want to make a train wreck out of it.. Quote
mickyg Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 (edited) Works really well for fine edges. As long as you burnish it down really well (using a toothpick helps for this but you can also use the back of your fingernail).Also, the benefits of a water based paint (Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous, etc...) are that if you mess up, some windex will clean it right up. Of course the drawbacks are that it's not as durable. If you want durability, go with a good lacquer. They don't clean up nearly as easily, of course. And they stink... Edited September 21, 2016 by mickyg Quote
spanner Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 cool thanks Mick! was just curious as I can get fine line from my work but it isn't very well suited to small intricate work.. so if the Tamiya tape can make a good clean paint edge then im happy! now to go out and buy some! Quote
mickyg Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 One thing I've learned from using the stuff is that it's extremely flexible. That makes it really good for following contours and panel lines if it's properly pushed down beforehand. I'm not sure what the fine line stuff is you're referring to, but if it's what I think, it may be better at making sure the line is straight. That's probably the one area where Tamiya tape can be a bit frustrating. It's so flexible, it can be difficult to get it to keep a straight line. Clean edge, no problem though. Quote
wm cheng Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 Yep, Tamiya stuff for all my masking needs. For really fine lines, I always cut my own edge with an exacto knife instead of using the tape edge - I find that one side of the tape to have a cleaner edge than the other side for some reason - but I just cut my own edge when I need a really really sharp line and not have to worry about finding the right side of the tape edge. (don't know if that makes any sense ) Quote
mickyg Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 Totally does! I forgot to mention that I do this a lot with the wider tape. I lay a strip on my cutting mat, use a nice all metal straight edge and cut multiple strips, often as wide a mm to do the really fine stuff. Works a treat! Quote
Hikuro Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 Hey so I had a question, I have the old Yamato version from....2013? Anyways, unlike the other manuals, this one didn't include ANY of the marking details of where the stickers need to be applied and that kind of bums me out that this thing has virtually no stickers.Did anyone ever figure that problem out or did Arcadia's instructions pretty much just give the same treatment? Quote
spanner Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 awesome! im feeling a smidgen more confident about tackling this build myself! Quote
neko878 Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 The amount of bleed through from real Tamiya tape versus house painting masking tape is like night/day. You still want to take your time applying it to make sure it is flush because every second spent applying it is at least a minute saved cleanup leaks. Yep, nothing like Tamiya masking tape - worth every penny! That's what I use. Also a few tips, make sure your airbrush mixture isn't too wet/thin, spray in light overlapping pattern (more light coats rather than a single heavy wet one). Also try to always spray from the tape side towards the plastic side, never spray "into" towards the tape edge. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1154652 Thanks guys! Can't wait to try this out! Quote
thetrollphysicist Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 question, what type of gunpods with pegs can fit into the VF-4G hands besides the VF-1 Yamato Ver 2 and Arcadia VF-1 series?Can i fit an Arcadia VF-0 Gunpod to VF-4G hands? Quote
F360 Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 If you still looking for one , it's on sale https://www.nippon-yasan.com/figures/14359-macross-digital-mission-vf-x-1-60-kanzen-henkei-vf-4g-lightning-iii.html Quote
eggy99 Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 Nice find! Bit the bullet and finally purchased the VF-4G using that NY credit! Hopefully I will make some time to customise to a FB2012 Hikaru custom. Quote
spanner Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 that's a good price especially for NY but still not quite as good as the HLJ sale price where I snagged mine! still a saving is a saving. Quote
no3Ljm Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 If you still looking for one , it's on sale https://www.nippon-yasan.com/figures/14359-macross-digital-mission-vf-x-1-60-kanzen-henkei-vf-4g-lightning-iii.html I'm just going to pretend I didn't see this post. But I want another one! Quote
F360 Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 I'm just going to pretend I didn't see this post. But I want another one! If that wont temp you , maybe this? https://www.nippon-yasan.com/figures/16822-gundam-fix-figuration-metal-composite-unicorn-gundam-final-battle-ver.html Quote
MAC-X Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 If only NY release VF-0A/0S for sales as well ... Quote
no3Ljm Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 If that wont temp you , maybe this? https://www.nippon-yasan.com/figures/16822-gundam-fix-figuration-metal-composite-unicorn-gundam-final-battle-ver.html Hahaha! I saw that too. As much as I love Gundam Unicorn, I don't like this variant color. If it's the red psycho frame with all the accessories including those 3 shields and booster, I'll bite for another line. Hehehe. Quote
no3Ljm Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 Actually I was about to order one. Hehehe. But I noticed that all the shipping cost are the same or almost the same. EMS and SAL Registered have a difference of only Y200. Yeah, HLJ sale price last July were cheaper including shipping. I think 3 VF-4G is enough. Quote
Cowboy17 Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 that GFFMC Unicorn, after shipping, is about the same price as amazon. no reason to buy it from N-Y. Quote
MAC-X Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 NY frequently 'recoup' their discounted price a bit by jacking up the shipping cost. Quote
F360 Posted November 1, 2016 Posted November 1, 2016 that GFFMC Unicorn, after shipping, is about the same price as amazon. no reason to buy it from N-Y. Are we looking at the same item? Because I can't find this for around $160 shipped from Amazon . Please tell if so , it will save me the temptation from getting it from N-Y. Quote
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