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Posted

soooo.... if you wanted to do a display like the Tokyo show one with a fighter unfolding into a Gerwalk then to a Battroid is THIS the one to use or would the other 2 mode one be better?

Posted

soooo.... if you wanted to do a display like the Tokyo show one with a fighter unfolding into a Gerwalk then to a Battroid is THIS the one to use or would the other 2 mode one be better?

Umm if you want to display a gerwalk you will need the 2-mode set. Then you need to add an extra fighter and battroid. And if you want the semi folding back transforming halfway into gerwalk that's another 2 mode set.

Posted

First VF-1A done! Great little kits.. the ONLY parts that will drive you to the edge of sanity are the two tiiiiiny dual antennas under the nose. Damn.. LOL. You have to glue them in. Everything else is great. 1 down, 2 to go!

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Posted (edited)

3? lucky you... I have 5 Battroids, 3 Gerwalks and five Fighters to build and light up! Lucky I bough a magnifying lens and light


For all four forms it would take six kits or at least the equivalent price of six kits.

Yeah I just bought them so hopefully it shouldnt be TOO hard to do

Anyone wanting to search for the 1/144 Dragon Carrier deck kits, the part no.s are:

DML Dragon Air Combat Series "Blast-Off" F/A-18A On Carrier Deck 4003

DML Dragon Air Combat Series "Launch!" F-14A w/Fire Engine 4020

DML Dragon Warbirds Series "Take Off " F/A-18G Growler On CVN Deck 4598

Edited by NZEOD
Posted

I just got two dual-mode CF kits, a fighter 1S, and a battroid 1S kit. Haven't found time to get started yet, but these will go into my rail layout somehow!

Question, if you have already completed the build of a battroid and a fighter, you can always diassemble and form gerwalk, correct?

Posted (edited)

Question, if you have already completed the build of a battroid and a fighter, you can always diassemble and form gerwalk, correct?

Its possible but its not a fun experience which I would constantly do. Basically after I did it once I decided to not try to parts form them again out of fear that in the handling and disassembly process the pegs will break.

Which is why many have suggested getting multiple sets if having all forms is a must.

The have to do SuperPack versions. BRING IT!

And after that, some VF-25 love!

Edited by ayaxr
Posted (edited)

Are you running the GiOP11 Engine Light Packs?

Anyone tried the Light Packs with the Gerwalk legs?

I've ordered 4 sets of the light packs and want to try cramming them into the Gerwalk legs.

Going to have a go at repainting and battle damaging some too.

Edited by NZEOD
Posted

Are you running the GiOP11 Engine Light Packs?

Anyone tried the Light Packs with the Gerwalk legs?

I've ordered 4 sets of the light packs and want to try cramming them into the Gerwalk legs.

Going to have a go at repainting and battle damaging some too.

Might be a problem. The leg for the Battroid (used in the Gerwalk mode) is solid core and have no provision for the light tube. The connector between the leg and foot is also a solid piece where light cannot pass through. You'll be better of saving the OP-11 for the fighter mode and build a custom LED setup for the Gerwalk.

Posted

or breaking out the dremel....

Posted

yeah I've seen them, thinking about desoldering the SMD chip and mounting that in the feet and leaving the circuit board (which only has the resistors on it) back in the body or under the diorama base

Posted (edited)

Its possible but its not a fun experience which I would constantly do. Basically after I did it once I decided to not try to parts form them again out of fear that in the handling and disassembly process the pegs will break.

Which is why many have suggested getting multiple sets if having all forms is a must.

The have to do SuperPack versions. BRING IT!

And after that, some VF-25 love!

Luckily I did pick up 2 boxes of the dual mode 1A CF kits during HLJ's sale. Guess I'll build all 3 modes with the two kits.

I only got one fighter and one battroid kit for 1S though, guess I'll have to give up the gerwalk there. Shame.

I did just finish the 1A battroid last night, my first one. Looks great with wonderful details. I had to strip the inside of the lower leg part quite a bit to allow room for the foot connector (I think its fitment is derailed by the paint). Otherwise a relatively straight forward build.

Have you guys been applying glue between the hip piece that connects to the crotch and the hip cover? I find the hip joint a little too loose but am afraid to apply glue there in case it gets stuck.

Edited by locidm
Posted

ARRRHHHH STOP!!! Mine havent turned up yet! Itching to get into these for a MKII street fight scene

Posted

I got my CF fighter but the battroids I ordered months ago still haven't arrived. Just my luck I live in the 3rd world with 3rd world postal system. I'm not shipping RSAL ever again, it's EMS for all purchases from now on.

Posted

SAL takes about a month to get to me in NZ

EMS about 4 days

Posted

Anybody else totally put one or both feet in upside down and then glue the legs together? --Asking for a friend.... :lol::lol::lol:

Got one out of 3 right! Luckily it was the VF-1J and it's my favorite. :wub:

Posted (edited)

VF-1 above the Dragon Carrier deck

IMG_20161018_0739311_zpsoyuxhkc2.jpgIMG_20161018_0740071_zpsl6u0illo.jpgIMG_20161018_0740271_zpsgsir7ire.jpg

Engines Lit

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The Light Leakage issue...

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Easily fixed with some tinfoil lining inside the legs

Edited by NZEOD
Posted (edited)

Just got the body, arms, & gunpod of my CF -1A Battroid together - wow! May ditch my Wave 1/100 kits.

Edited by GMK
Posted (edited)

Only took an hour to do as well. Pretty simple to piece together. I had to glue the nose cone on and I've chosen to glue the tail fins and the legs to the body and pilot to the seat.

Should be able to get it down to 45mins on the next 3. Used a blade to remove the items from the sprue instead of clippers and it worked fine. Each piece does need the sprue tabs in the parts trimmed off once its removed.

Tamiya cement worked fine to glue everything including the nose blade antenna.

Only bits that are easy to screw up are the feet/nozzles upside down and the LED Plates upside down in the legs. The electrical connection from the stand into the plane is a bit iffy and needs a little fiddling to get it to light up.

The OP11 light unit needs 2 x LR44 Hearing Aid batteries, or you could mod it easily enough to run off a USB plug with a 100ohm (brown black brown) 1/4W resistor soldered onto the Negative/Ground wire of the USB cable.

http://www.petervis.com/electronics/Standard_Resistor_Values/Resistor_Colour_Code/100R.gif

Also... there is a piece of clear plastic film in the battery holder... its tempting to remove it but DONT. Its an insulator to stop that battery cell from shorting out.

Edited by NZEOD

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