What's yer poison?

[Galaxy_Stranger]

What do you like best?

Edited September 24, 2015 by Galaxy_Stranger

[mickyg]

As far as I'm aware, the two on the outside are essentially the same thing. I'm not sure if the applicator brush is any different between the two, but they're both the sort of glue you use to fuse plastic after you've assembled it. It has very little, to no extra stuff that stays behind after it dries and it dries very quickly. I'm not familiar with the one in the middle. Is that the citrus scented one? If it's just plain old liquid cement, that'll be one that has a bit more "stuff" in it (usually some form of acrylic suspension) that adds a bit of bulk to the bond.

[EXO]

As far as I'm aware, the two on the outside are essentially the same thing. I'm not sure if the applicator brush is any different between the two, but they're both the sort of glue you use to fuse plastic after you've assembled it. It has very little, to no extra stuff that stays behind after it dries and it dries very quickly. I'm not familiar with the one in the middle. Is that the citrus scented one? If it's just plain old liquid cement, that'll be one that has a bit more "stuff" in it (usually some form of acrylic suspension) that adds a bit of bulk to the bond.

That's pretty much it on the middle. A lot thicker but the same as the one on the right.

Thanks to mechtech for introducing me to this since I hate the smell of the ones up top. Plus it's non toxic, no cancer causing fumes... not as strong though but it works fine with styrene. If I need anything more I just use glue or plastic putty.

[MechTech]

Thanks for putting that out there EXO! I love it! I've found that Micro Weld is also best for using multiple applications. Then the gooey mass on the seams goes together without needing putty and filler. Other cements seem to dry faster without "gooing up" as well. Plus it seems to dry faster than other cements when using the same technique. It also dries as fast with regular use as other solvent based cements. - MT

[mslz22]

Awesome, how does the viscosity compare? Is it closer to the orange cap Tamiya or the Extra thin?

Thanks for putting that out there EXO! I love it! I've found that Micro Weld is also best for using multiple applications. Then the gooey mass on the seams goes together without needing putty and filler. Other cements seem to dry faster without "gooing up" as well. Plus it seems to dry faster than other cements when using the same technique. It also dries as fast with regular use as other solvent based cements. - MT

[Galaxy_Stranger]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

-=[EDIT]=-

Also found this one, too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

Edited September 27, 2015 by Galaxy_Stranger

[oshanmacross]

I'm thinking all of those are just M.E.K. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanone in different potency's

"Mr." products might not conform to the safety restrictions in the US or other western countries as well as tamiya products do.

Impossible to find Mr. Surfacer (Primer) for me these days except online shipping from Hong Kong.

[Galaxy_Stranger]

Interesting...water soluble...

Yeah, I can only get this stuff pretty much on Amazon and it always turns out to be a Japanese or Hong Kong retailer.

Edited September 29, 2015 by Galaxy_Stranger

[MechTech]

Viscosity seems to be equal to all of the other liquid cements. The only downfall is that it has no applicator, but I just use an old paintbrush.

Other glues (like Testor's liquid) DO use MEK (and acetates), but with other stuff like acrylic fillers. I've actually used Testor's to glue up my son's Lego builds where he wants them to be permanent. MEK is NASTY stuff though to be breathing in. That's why I switched over to the Micro Weld. Plus it doesn't travel into the next room where my family starts complaining! - MT

[Galaxy_Stranger]

Well, more for me to huff, I guess!

I haven't started using these yet. I've got a bottle of Micro Weld coming next week. I want to use them all on a cheap model I've got here and see how they're different. It's a snap-tite I'm gonna sand the nubs off of. Can't decide whether or not to scribe the panel lines or not as they're raised...

But the viscosity of each as well as the application has to be different among them. Some directions say to squeeze the parts together until the plastic fills the gap. Others leave it up to you to fill later, which I plan to do with some new-to-me filler Mr. Surfacer.

Interesting about the Legos. I used Testor's glue on my Legos as well, but it wouldn't adhere to anything. It would kind of fill in the gaps but wouldn't hold anything in place, so when it broke apart, the legos weren't ruined.

[oshanmacross]

Well, heck there is a seller on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271454417547 with a good price on the Mr. stuff and in USA so I just purchased a bottle.

I have some small fissure like cracks on my 1/48 valk so I'll try this out.

[MechTech]

When you do the comparison, please take photos and notes. It would make for a good educational thread. We see these kinds of questions all the time.

I used the Testor's glue GENEROUSLY on the Legos, like with a medicine dropper and outside. I actually got goo filling several joints like the assembled models in toy stores. - MT

[oshanmacross]

I'll try to take some pics this weekend.

I received the Mr. Cement S and just had a critical piece break on my 1/48 yamato valk.

Stuff worked wonders, welded the piece just like new and I stressed it with a few transformations.

This will be my go to "Poison" for now on