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Posted

That's a BIG piece of resin! I've never heard of that stuff, but, after cleaning the model parts with soap and water (to get the mold release compounds off them) then sanding, it does the same thing. Most models will require sanding for seams and stuff, that alone with the mold release cleaned off will give you a prepped surface that any primer should stick to. The sanding gives the paint a surface to bite into.

That was a BIG piece of resin that I'm assuming had no to little sanding on it because of the surface details he mentioned. It looked like that stuff is basically a flat to semi-gloss coat giving the primer a surface to stick to. In that case, it was probably a good idea. Normally though; not needed.

By the way, Dupli-color is great stuff with a fine spray tip; I love it. Also, paint strokes should be one long movement over the length of the model. Stopping and starting over the model makes puddles or thicker areas that will give the paint runs or create darker spots. - MT

Posted

I use adhesion promoter but not when I use primer. Usually when I use primer, it's to fix and smooth out the surface so I know I'll be continuously sanding and applying primer or surface putty. If the surface doesn't need prepping save from light sanding and cleaning then you can go straight from adhesion promoter to the base color. I say base color because you have to spray the area before the promoter dries. You can't use it in one area and then change color and expect the AP to still work.

Adhesion promoter is great for customizing toys to where you want to keep the plastic bare and add graphics, like a stripe on the legs of a 1/60 Yamato/Arcadia VF-1. It's clear so it won't look like it's bleeding out like primer sometimes does. Sometimes you want to keep the bare plastic to minimize scratching when transforming. Over all, AP is not really necessary for every project.

I also use the Duplicolor line. I love the acrylic enamel line. Too bad it's only basic colors but the way it sprays is pretty awesome and compared to the price of hobby paints it's really cheaper even though the quality is just as good or even better. I usually only use them as a base coat and use hobby paint for detail or more specific colors. Don't ever use auto paint primer on a styrene kit though. Primer them with a hobby brand primer first and then you can use these paints on top. Some auto paint will eat weaker plastics and it's a chore to fix...

Posted

Adhesion promoter is great for customizing toys to where you want to keep the plastic bare and add graphics, like a stripe on the legs of a 1/60 Yamato/Arcadia VF-1. It's clear so it won't look like it's bleeding out like primer sometimes does. Sometimes you want to keep the bare plastic to minimize scratching when transforming. Over all, AP is not really necessary for every project.

Hmmm... Me thinks this would have come in handy for my NSAWC custom VF-1 Yamato kit a long, long time ago.

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