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Posted (edited)

Mine is in the mail. Kinda disappointed that the DYRL parts are not still in it, but I'll be happy when it gets here.

What would be great is if Hasegawa would simply include the TV version sprues in their DYRL kit. That way people could buy the one and build it either way...

Edited by Thom
Posted (edited)

Just paid for mine. Should go into Private Warehouse shortly. I'll probably add in a couple HG Gundam accessories for my kitbashed gm team and maybe a Barbatos before I ship it.

Edit - aw dang, Barbatos is Backordered. Guess I should have finished the transaction yesterday.

Womp womp.

Edited by Kelsain
Posted

I wonder if I can extend this thing in Private Warehouse so that it will get shipped with VF-0S and VF-2SS which is just pass their alloted 60 days.

Posted

Hmmm, so I wonder if they'll make a photo-etch set for this. Barrigng that, I wonder what existing ship sets are out there that would give us a decent radar mast.

Posted

looking at a 3d model of the SDF-1 and the kit, the arc extends into the front part of the model kit as well. actually most of the arc would be on that part. comparing the 3d model to the kit now that I look at it, they moved details forward on the bottom of the kit, the top plate has some details moved forward but others in the right place. I'll look at it more later, gotta go into work now

Posted

Disappointment...

After all this time waiting for a tv version, my 1/5000 and even the 1/20000 looks spot-on in comparison. I couldn't find one single large part that won't need rework. There's also not enough correct gun turrets, so some recasting will be necessary for those. Most of the other flaws have been mentioned. It's going to take a lot of work/rework...

Bought 6. Selling 4.

Is the 1/3000 resin kit still available for pre-order, or still casting, that people are mentioning, made by Cap?

Posted

Is the 1/3000 resin kit still available for pre-order, or still casting, that people are mentioning, made by Cap?

He was floating the idea of doing one, but life interceded, and he's retiring out of model making. A 1/48th scale Legioss is his last project.

Posted

When someone gets a kit in stock, would it be possiblt to pose the Daedalus next to a ruler? I'm wondering how long / tall they made it? I'm contemplating getting one, but we'll see. - MT

Posted

I haven't started building it yet and the Daedalus will have to be built to see the size. if my thought on the true scale is correct, it should be 108.444 mm long. the Prometheus should be 113.777 mm long.

if it was true 1/4000 scale, the Daedalus would be 122 mm long and the Prometheus would be 128 mm long.

the ARMD mk 2 from the DYRL version came out to be 1/4500 scale in size.

I'm still mixed on weither to wait on corrected parts for the main gun. looking at the model kit has shown that the correction is in more parts then I originally thought and I am not even sure how some of the parts would be corrected.

I'm also backing a kickstarter for a 3D printer right now as well, so that has my money tied up. I'd like to get another one of this kit and the DYRL kit, to eventually build into the other mode.

Posted (edited)

When someone gets a kit in stock, would it be possiblt to pose the Daedalus next to a ruler? I'm wondering how long / tall they made it? I'm contemplating getting one, but we'll see. - MT

If nobody does it before I get mine MechTech I got you covered. mm on the ruler ok? I also have an analog plastic micrometer I could use.

Edited by Chas
Posted (edited)

Daedalus

99.85mm long

deck is 21.15mm tall from bottom

raised part is 24.15 mm

27.37 to to of the command bridge.

door is 10.73mm tall

so the scale is off

calculations put it at 1/4887 scale. that's pretty bad.

Edited by Firesped
Posted (edited)

built the prometheus, it is 113.57 mm long. 1/4500 scale is 113.77 mm. so the ARMD mk 2 and the prometheus are 1/4500 scale. does that mean they shortened the Daedalus from the 488m length?

edit: did some math and if the Daedalus is 1/4500 scale as well, they reduced the length to 449.325 m long, making it 38.675 m shorter then it should be.

I'm trying to think of why they would have reduced the length. the only thing I can think of is that they considered the extendable ramp to be part of the length of the ship. a 38.675 m ramp would be 8.594444mm long in 1/4500 scale. The issue I see is that this drawing from macross mecha manual, shows the front of the ships extending to the same place.

macross-attack-crosssection.gif

​

however, the cruiser mode schematic does show it shorter.

macross-cruiser-schematics.gif

I guess it is an inconsistency in the lineart then.

​

I am building the model except for the gun part. I'm going to paint it up, unlike I did with the DYRL version. I did paint my 1/8000 scale SDF-1s. I think the front of the gun can be saved but not that entire part from the kit. I'm going to put lights in the main leg thrusters. not sure if I want to put the "windows" in with lights.​ It's already too late for me to light up the bridge.

​

Edited by Firesped
Posted

so I have basically now determined that the TV series and the DYRL versions of the SDF-1 are radically different ships. the only thing that may be the same is the central body and even then I'm not sure.

parts can be made to fix some of the issues though.

a new outside side panel would make the leg more acceptable. also an extension ring for the leg/foot thruster probably needs made to add in a detail not in the kit.

the chest/shoulder thrusters were not redone as well. there is a part in the back that comes up to the height of the main gun part. I've already assembled that part of the kit not realizing this until it was too late.

That means the entire main gun needs to be redone as well.​

Also note, the instructions assumes there are holes for all the extra guns they added, which there are not.

PART list

outside plate for each leg to remove fancy DYRL details.

extention ring for each foot/thruster to add in the recessed details.

replace back part of chest/thrusters to put detail back in.

main gun needs to be redone except for the front tip.

i'll take pictures when I get home. gotta go to work now. even though it looks like it is solid at the moment, everything is not actually glued together yet. I'm not sure if this kit is worth the trouble atm to make new parts for. once I get a 3D printer, that would change tho. there is just too much that needs fixed.

Posted

Thanks Firesped and Chas! Pictures would be awesome and millimeters are great, especially with small stuff. I must admit that the amount of detail that is off bothers me, especially for Hasegawa. The guys in my modelling club love their kits and use terms like, "it went together easily, no problems, typical of a Hasegawa kit" and so on. You can't take a dog body and put a cat head on it to make it a cat. It's just all kinda wrong in this case with what Hasegawa did. - MT

Posted (edited)

Here is where I am at with the ship. the ship is just holding itself together right now. I took all the loose parts apart afterward and took some pictures. the legs are not glued in tho, all those parts are free moving as well at the momment. I found the sliding bar fit a lot better on this kit then my DYRL kit. the inside and bottom plates for the legs are glued to the square boxes.

post-29891-0-97614700-1446588094_thumb.png

post-29891-0-29232100-1446588138_thumb.png

post-29891-0-38162800-1446588197_thumb.png

Edited by Firesped
Posted

and in case you are wondering what that foot is in the 3rd photo.

This is my 1/8000 SDF-1 kits I painted up.

I had bought 2 of the model kits and modified one of them to build into Cruiser mode.

I didn't do a great job on perfectly replicating the cruiser mode though.

post-29891-0-18665000-1446588905_thumb.png

post-29891-0-22432800-1446588919_thumb.png

post-29891-0-69939700-1446588932_thumb.png

post-29891-0-37397100-1446588941_thumb.png

Posted

I put circles around the parts I am talking about with the leg extention (the red and black painted area in the foot) and the chest part that is missing (part sticking up in the forward circle).

post-29891-0-00237500-1446590302_thumb.png

Posted

Overall I'm not a Purist for design. If it's close enough, then I'm fine. There's some work to be done to fix some fidly bits, but that's okay by me. But what I am seeing is another problem, and that's with the Prometheus, and the probably the Daedalus, mounting arms and how they are articulated. For the DYRL version, it looks flimsy to me the way the ARMD ships are attached to the shoulders with curving arms. I like the TV version mainly because the arms go straight back from the shoulders to the sterns of the ship. From looking at the first pic in Firesped's WIP post, it's clear they went with the DYRL mounting option.

That makes the third thing that I'm going to have to try and change when I finally get mine from the mailman. Definitely going to have to shave some plastic - as well as build some up to make the clearances needed for a straight arm support...

Posted

The Prometheus does have an angle in the arm, it is just not that visable due to the linkage being shorter. looking at the 2 schematics for the ships, I just found my central hull issue that is not messing with the 2 version. the linkage part for the chest/leg assembly is totally diffirent between the two ships. In the TV version, it is built into the central hull and points down. While in the DYRL version it is a separate part that points back.

Ultimately, trying to build the TV version using a DYRL model will only result in a hybrid. and by the time we have invested in fixing the errors with new plastic, we will have just replaced the whole thing.

I started putting the feet together. they part where the vents go, should be in a part that was not redone. I'm almost wondering if a decal could give the illusion of making it look right. They did provide an extension ring that fits into the back of the foot.

I think I will get that transformable version when it comes out to use for my purposes.

meant to post this last night before work, oops.

Posted

I want to put lights in the main thrusters and I found a place to get them, but what color should I go for? I'm thinking going with warm light, but not sure if that is the right color. I don't want to do the blue colors.

warm light

red

yellow

orange

Posted

Box illustration:

hs151120.jpg

Awesome masterpiece from Tenjin. Wonder if we'll be having a 3rd volume of his Macross-related artwork any time soon.

  • 2 weeks later...

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