Anyone using Future Floor for gloss finish?

[potatotomato]

This is my 2nd attempt on using Future Floor as gloss finishing, however the result was different from the 1st one which was mostly unpainted.

1.I use Gundam Oil based Marker for panel lining, left it dry for few days, apply Future Floor with brush, notice the Future Floor will "melt" the panel lines and causing smudges when Future Floor "flow downwards". I had to apply very dry brush, and try to avoid the panel lines, but this result in much less gloss finishing.

2.I used Future Floor on semi-gloss coated surface (using it as prime to paint certain parts of the piece), I noticed no matter how thick i applied the future floor & how many layers, the spray paint texture is still noticeable & the whole piece doesn't look as glossy as it should. I don't get it, where did the future floor go?

3.I notice Future Floor tend to "flow downwards" due to more water based, it's causing uneven smudges after dry, previous try had similar smudge but went away once it's dry.

I would assume using airbrush would have similar result seeing how Future Floor works.

[Mintox]

Mate have you tried the Vallejo range of acrylic clear coats? If not they are brilliant. Flat is FLAT. Semi gloss and gloss and are very good too. No thinning need but you need to stir the pot so to speak and make sure the solution is thoroughly mixed. Sprays straight out of the bottle.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

You really need to use it from an airbrush to get consistent results as a glosscoat. I have been using it since 1996 and have done pretty well.

Here's what I do:

1.) Shoot at 20 psi or so, about 10-to-12 inches from the piece in order to get a deliberately "pebbly" appearance. You want to just mist it on

2.) About 10 minutes later while the first rough coat is still tacky, hit it again. This time you're in closer. The self leveling property combined with the pebbling breaks the surface tension, making it get really smooth.

Also, you're using oil-based panel line markers. If you're doing highlighting of panel lines like that, do it over the Future, not under it. The appearance will be smoother and, due to the Future being alcohol/ammonia solvent based, you can wipe off the "incompatible" solvent-based marker that you put down on top of the Future just by using a cotton swab moistened with either turpentine (if you literally mean "oil-based") or mineral spirits. Also, unless the paints you're going over with the marker were glossy, even if they are acrylic like Future, your marker will stain the paint, making it difficult to remove/correct on the fly. Why? Flat paints' surfaces are microscopically rough and cracked by design. Again, that's why you want the Future - it's glossy so the paint/wash/highlight stays "high up" on the surface.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

P. S. All bets are off if you're not in the states. The overseas version formulation literally changes from quarter-to-quarter as the overseas stuff sold in stores comes from varying manufacturing plants used to fill the orders at the time. I had a conversation with someone at Johnson & Johnson a few years ago and learned this.

Edited June 7, 2015 by Lt. Z0mBe

[potatotomato]

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Also, you're using oil-based panel line markers. If you're doing highlighting of panel lines like that, do it over the Future, not under it. The appearance will be smoother and, due to the Future being alcohol/ammonia solvent based, you can wipe off the "incompatible" solvent-based marker that you put down on top of the Future just by using a cotton swab moistened with either turpentine (if you literally mean "oil-based") or mineral spirits. Also, unless the paints you're going over with the marker were glossy, even if they are acrylic like Future, your marker will stain the paint, making it difficult to remove/correct on the fly. Why? Flat paints' surfaces are microscopically rough and cracked by design. Again, that's why you want the Future - it's glossy so the paint/wash/highlight stays "high up" on the surface.

The reason i panel lined them before future because i know Gundam Marker Oil Based doesn't work well with paint or coats, i have tried panel lining on a painted -> Lacquer Gloss coated surface, the result was pretty similar as you described, the marker dries on the spot and you need a hobby knife to scratch off the excess, few users told me Gundam Markers are designed for unpainted plastics.

About panel lining on the Future Floor, do you notice dried Future Floor tend to be easily scratched? I have some moving parts near the joint and the armor sometimes rub against the shoulder, causing minor scratches you can see the "white" dust coming off.

Also how do you prevent Future Floor from gathering downwards when you do a wet coat? I used brush i can clearly see the coat gathers towards gravity.

I chose brush right now since that was how the youtube showed, they also suggest cotton rags. I'm not sure how to polish with a paper like the youtube showing without damaging the coat though.

And by panel lining after the coat, how do you protect the linings? Also some areas require panel lining before applying decals & top coat, how do you get around it?

Would it work if i Panel Line them, use some clear matte/semi gloss coat to seal the lines/decals, then use Future Floor to gloss it? I tested on semi gloss primed areas, seems the Future Floor can't fill up the paint particle patters & result was not as smooth.

Edited June 7, 2015 by potatotomato

[potatotomato]

Mate have you tried the Vallejo range of acrylic clear coats? If not they are brilliant. Flat is FLAT. Semi gloss and gloss and are very good too. No thinning need but you need to stir the pot so to speak and make sure the solution is thoroughly mixed. Sprays straight out of the bottle.

hi, for Gloss i prefer Future Floor because it's the cheapest compared to what you get for a small bottle of hobby coats or cans of coats. I have a $1 clear coat that works well for semi-gloss, only cheap solution i haven't found is for flat coats, Mr.Hobby's bottled flat seems the cheapest for $3 per 10ml.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

The reason i panel lined them before future because i know Gundam Marker Oil Based doesn't work well with paint or coats, i have tried panel lining on a painted -> Lacquer Gloss coated surface, the result was pretty similar as you described, the marker dries on the spot and you need a hobby knife to scratch off the excess, few users told me Gundam Markers are designed for unpainted plastics.

About panel lining on the Future Floor, do you notice dried Future Floor tend to be easily scratched? I have some moving parts near the joint and the armor sometimes rub against the shoulder, causing minor scratches you can see the "white" dust coming off.

Also how do you prevent Future Floor from gathering downwards when you do a wet coat? I used brush i can clearly see the coat gathers towards gravity.

I chose brush right now since that was how the youtube showed, they also suggest cotton rags. I'm not sure how to polish with a paper like the youtube showing without damaging the coat though.

And by panel lining after the coat, how do you protect the linings? Also some areas require panel lining before applying decals & top coat, how do you get around it?

Would it work if i Panel Line them, use some clear matte/semi gloss coat to seal the lines/decals, then use Future Floor to gloss it? I tested on semi gloss primed areas, seems the Future Floor can't fill up the paint particle patters & result was not as smooth.

About panel lining on the Future Floor, do you notice dried Future Floor tend to be easily scratched? I have some moving parts near the joint and the armor sometimes rub against the shoulder, causing minor scratches you can see the "white" dust coming off.

Future is essentially clear acrylic paint. You're not going to be able to not scratch it if you have it in an area where it's getting rubbed by moving parts.

And by panel lining after the coat, how do you protect the linings? Also some areas require panel lining before applying decals & top coat, how do you get around it?

Process I use is like this:

1.) Prime if necessary and then Preshade

2.) Color coat(s)

3.) Glosscoat (Future)

4.) Decals with more Future over them after they've dried

5.) Glaze (W & N ink in Future with a Liquitex Flow Aid - 20/1 ratio) and wash (oil paint or pastel). This is where the panel line and recessed details come out. Let them cure.

6.) Oil paint filter.

7.) Flat coat (Liquitex matte)

8.) Drybrushing of raised details and edges followed by another flat coat.

9.) Pastel weathering/chipping effects

10.) Another flat coat to seal the pastels.

The panel lines will get protected by multiple coats of clear flat. Note this process doesn't cover stuff like salt and hairspray weathering.

As for brushing Future, it's a delicate thing if you're trying to cover a large area. You have to build it up in multiple light coats if you're covering a large area. When I say thin coats, I mean like fog on a window thin. You want most of it off of the brush.

Would it work if i Panel Line them, use some clear matte/semi gloss coat to seal the lines/decals, then use Future Floor to gloss it? I tested on semi gloss primed areas, seems the Future Floor can't fill up the paint particle patters & result was not as smooth.

My first question is why would you want to do it that way? That being said, I would say that using oil paint over anything other than gloss is a lot more difficult to control.

I hope this helps a bit. Remember to keep it simple.

Kenny

[Big s]

With decals I always coat then pannel line the part to give a more realistic look, even if the line goes through the decal.