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Posted (edited)

That's the wrong adapter. That's for fighter fast packs and was included in the fast pack sets way back when they were released separately.

The Reg fighter adapter is more Flat and fits super snug on the fighters. I'll take a pic when I get home from work :p

Really?

It looks alot like the same adaptor that came with my HM-R Armored VF-1J, which doesn't come with the FAST-pack. Can only be used in naked VF-1J fighter-mode, too. The curve secures the elbow-edges of the arms.

I didn't know there was a different adaptor for fighter-mode.

I now really want to see how different the adaptor is that you're talking about.

I don't remember anybody here in this thread mentioning the adaptor was different from the original HiMetal release.

edit2:

AH! I now see the difference. They are indeed different.

This was from the fb-guy: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1730273330534299.1073741905.1433811360180499&type=3

post-263-0-91764300-1449370430_thumb.jpg

Yeah. Dafuq, Bandai?!

:5:

Edited by treatment
Posted (edited)

The flat fighter stand adaptor did comes with the 1J Armored, didn't surprise from today's bandai behaviour ;)

Edited by CRYO
Posted (edited)

I don't understand. What is regular fighter mode? You mean w/o fast packs? But doesn't that pic show that there's an adaptor for it?

I took a quick snap of Hikkie-1J:

post-263-0-72291100-1449388118_thumb.jpg

now compare the adaptor of the Hikkie-1S pic of the fb-guy:

post-263-0-73439300-1449388322_thumb.jpg

See the difference now?

edit:

fwiw, I don't have the Hikkie-1S, yet, but here's the flight-adaptor from my HM-R Armored VF-1J by itself:

post-263-0-61109600-1449389529_thumb.jpg

Duymon (or whoever else that already have it) can then post a pic of the Hikkie-1S flight-adaptor for comparo.

Edited by treatment
Posted

I know bandai has improved their hard abs plastics on recent model kits, but I sometimes worry on their toys. In the past lacquer paints and primers caused abs to become brittle like on the first gen mg sinanju. As far as I can see from examples the hmr line spears to take these paints well. An acrylic dull coat may be safer, but would probably run off with continued play.

Damn spell check. Spears was gonna be apears.

Posted (edited)

I know bandai has improved their hard abs plastics on recent model kits, but I sometimes worry on their toys. In the past lacquer paints and primers caused abs to become brittle like on the first gen mg sinanju. As far as I can see from examples the hmr line spears to take these paints well. An acrylic dull coat may be safer, but would probably run off with continued play.

Damn spell check. Spears was gonna be apears.

Is this something you are considering doing for yourself? as speaking from personal experience (over 20yrs worth), there's virtually zero danger in applying a microscopic layer of solvent based clear-coat, to one of these toys. You'd need to do something pretty silly for the plastic to be "attacked" by the clear-coat.

If you were talking about automotive grade paints, then we'd have something to talk about; but even then, it would still be doable if you know what you are doing.

Edited by north-exit
Posted

If you don't leave the item you top coat alone long enough it will feel tacky. Likewise if the wrong kind of top coat is used with certain plastics it may never completely dry.

Testors Dullcote is solvent based, and should never be used on "soft" or pliable plastics - PVC Vinyl etc. The HMR toys (so far) are constructed of a "hard" plastic styrene of sorts, so the results are perfect. As a rule of thumb, hard plastics are usually OK, but anything soft requires acrylic water-based products. Here's some points...

- Remember to take it easy with the coats, you don't want to "pool" the clear-coat on the surface.

- Mask off any portions you don't want to "dull" - clear visors, lights etc.

- I probably wouldn't do the hands on these HMRs, they seem too soft, and it doesn't stand out anyway,

- Keep approx 25cm away from the surface, and make brisk passes with the can, but not too fast, or you'll end up with "dry" paint on the surface.

- It's actually a rather forgiving process and pretty easy to master, so don't be nervous, the results will be awesome. But even so, do some practice runs first.

- Wipe the surfaces free of any mold release agents before commencing, even though the solvent in the clear-coat will ensure an excellent bond anyway, it's a good habit to form.

Hope this helps, and apologies if you already knew most of this stuff.

I think the tackiness that I experienced was due to the ABS plastic... I didn't know that ABS didn't like top coats.

And thanks for your input! I do have experience with model making and top coats... however, top coating toys is still a new thing to me -- I didn't start collecting toys until earlier this year (That Arcadia YF-19!! B))... and now MP/3rd party Transformers).

Would you suggest Testors Dullcote to put on toys? Testors is pretty easy for me to obtain, but I have cans of Krylon, and Mr. Super Clear.

****

Back to the HMR topic... I just bought my first Hi-Metal figure via Buyee -- the VF-1J GBP for under 100 dollars! Sadly, I was screwed on shipping costs to get it, but it was my fault as opposed to Buyee (I wanted the extra shipping protection that they offer, but, man, did it raise costs more than I thought). Had I not done that shipping protection thing I would have paid about 105 USD for the item, fees, and all shipping costs... but after that shipping protection it raised total cost to about 145USD :(:(

Posted

I took a quick snap of Hikkie-1J:

now compare the adaptor of the Hikkie-1S pic of the fb-guy:

See the difference now?

edit:

fwiw, I don't have the Hikkie-1S, yet, but here's the flight-adaptor from my HM-R Armored VF-1J by itself:

Duymon (or whoever else that already have it) can then post a pic of the Hikkie-1S flight-adaptor for comparo.

Thanks, I think I see a slight difference now. But again, my question is on why Duymon would say there is no adaptor for regular fighter mode. I understand that they're different, but doesn't that pic from the FB post show that you can still use the included adapter with the 1S on the fighter without fast packs? Or did that FB person just force it on, making it look like it can be used without the fast packs?

Posted (edited)

I think the tackiness that I experienced was due to the ABS plastic... I didn't know that ABS didn't like top coats.

And thanks for your input! I do have experience with model making and top coats... however, top coating toys is still a new thing to me -- I didn't start collecting toys until earlier this year (That Arcadia YF-19!! B))... and now MP/3rd party Transformers).

Would you suggest Testors Dullcote to put on toys? Testors is pretty easy for me to obtain, but I have cans of Krylon, and Mr. Super Clear.

****

Back to the HMR topic... I just bought my first Hi-Metal figure via Buyee -- the VF-1J GBP for under 100 dollars! Sadly, I was screwed on shipping costs to get it, but it was my fault as opposed to Buyee (I wanted the extra shipping protection that they offer, but, man, did it raise costs more than I thought). Had I not done that shipping protection thing I would have paid about 105 USD for the item, fees, and all shipping costs... but after that shipping protection it raised total cost to about 145USD :(:(

I've had great success with Testors Dullcote on all sorts of "hard" plastics; I'd also recommend Tamiya's TS-80. My Yamato SDF-1 was finished with Tamiya TS-80 about 4 years ago, and it's perfect to this day, pretty sure there's a number of different plastics on the SDF-1, too.

Edited by north-exit
Posted (edited)

Thanks, I think I see a slight difference now. But again, my question is on why Duymon would say there is no adaptor for regular fighter mode. I understand that they're different, but doesn't that pic from the FB post show that you can still use the included adapter with the 1S on the fighter without fast packs? Or did that FB person just force it on, making it look like it can be used without the fast packs?

We all got tricked until Duymon raised the issue.

Not sure if it's intentional, but the other blog (hachaka?) didn't quite show it, either. They both might have just totally missed the difference, too.

The newer adaptor can be used like shown in the pics.

Just not sure one really should.

Bandai should've just provided the sleeker non-fp fighter-adaptor along with the other adaptor. Shouldn't have cost them much, if any at all...

:5:

Edited by treatment
Posted

Now that I have had a chance to play with a HMR I am happy with it. For its size of it its pretty cool toy that I don't feel cautious about handling as compared handling a Arcadia/Yamato 1/60 Valk.

I still have to process a bunch of photos of it but wanted to share at least one for now. :D

23550506486_278acc7959_h.jpg

Posted

Bandai kits had warnings against the use of lacquer paints on some of the mg kits for the abs parts due to reports of problems with the inner frame. The sinanju original kit was one example that people were reporting on the hobby forums. From what I understand the second release, I believe it was the anime Edition that came with the "paintable frame." On newer kits they use a new formula that is safer for painting. I am not sure if bandai uses that formula on their toys for the abs. Some of the Arcadia owners on the hobby forums that painted them reported fragile parts due to the paints, but that could have been due to other problems. I think the tamiya paints and top coat are acrylic and may be safer, but may rub off easier. On the new 1s hmr I would like to see how the arrow decals from a 1/100 kit would look on the head, If other people report no problems with the top coat i will try it out

From my experience the testors lacquer dull coat is usually a fine product, maybe the best product testors has made. Their top coat seams to be slightly less aggressive on plastics than mr hobby, so it may be safer to use.

Posted

Now that I have had a chance to play with a HMR I am happy with it. For its size of it its pretty cool toy that I don't feel cautious about handling as compared handling a Arcadia/Yamato 1/60 Valk.

I still have to process a bunch of photos of it but wanted to share at least one for now. :D

look fw to ur great shots!

Posted

@Gundam@EFSF

Thank you, you keep posting great pics as well! :D

Wow, that nice that Amiami found more Regults. I wish could have gotten 2 more, but I'll be fine with my 1.

Posted

Thats awesome saburo

Thanks david!

What is everyone using for a stand? From what I understand the VF-1J came with a Tamashii Stage Act stand (mechanical vesion), will the normal Stage Act stand (Figuarts version) work with the HMRs or is it too heavy for it?

Posted

You can not attach missiles to this pair of wings. Check out the right wing, the one with the "001" marking. Now look at it closely; this is actually another physical left wing, see the break in the black stripe? It's near the part where you click-attach to the toy. I prefer using the "missile wings" even without missiles but still...

Anyone else having the same problem?

post-458-0-04447200-1449605285_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

You can not attach missiles to this pair of wings. Check out the right wing, the one with the "001" marking. Now look at it closely; this is actually another physical left wing, see the break in the black stripe? It's near the part where you click-attach to the toy. I prefer using the "missile wings" even without missiles but still...

Anyone else having the same problem?

I edited my initial post after re-reading your post and thanks to Chronocidal for helping making things clear.

I have not attached the non-hardpoint wings. Could the non-hardpoint wings you have be warped? I'll double check mine tonight.

Edited by Saburo
Posted (edited)

I'm assuming he means those are the hardpoint-less wings?

Not having those hardpoints to tell them "DON'T PAINT THIS SIDE" probably contributed to that.. Still, that's some lousy quality control. <_<

Edited by Chronocidal
Posted

You can not attach missiles to this pair of wings. Check out the right wing, the one with the "001" marking. Now look at it closely; this is actually another physical left wing, see the break in the black stripe? It's near the part where you click-attach to the toy. I prefer using the "missile wings" even without missiles but still...

Anyone else having the same problem?

Looks like someone gauged out the section when the plastic was still hot off the mould...resulting in the paint app issue.

How does it look attached to the toy in fighter mode? It's close enough inboard so you might not notice it too much even with the wings spread out? If you purchased it at HLJ, maybe you could get a replacement wing?

Posted

@ Saburo - No, it is not warped, the right wing attaches perfectly to the left side with the painted side under.

@ Chronocidal - Yes, not having those hard points may have contributed and most especially yes this is some LOUSY QUALITY CONTROL!!!

@ Vifam7 - You notice it a bit and this wing does not spread all the way out. I bought them at a Yellow Submarine in Akihabara, so meh.

Posted

@ Saburo - No, it is not warped, the right wing attaches perfectly to the left side with the painted side under.

@ Chronocidal - Yes, not having those hard points may have contributed and most especially yes this is some LOUSY QUALITY CONTROL!!!

@ Vifam7 - You notice it a bit and this wing does not spread all the way out. I bought them at a Yellow Submarine in Akihabara, so meh.

gotcha, sorry man. I'll see about attaching the wings and let you know my findings.

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