Hi-Metal R

[technoblue]

6 minutes ago, Mac said:

PO is July 3rd? Then isn't that 12am PST which would be Sunday night?

You're right! I'm taking vacation that week, so I won't have to worry in any case. 

[sh9000]

12 am Monday morning.

[technoblue]

6 minutes ago, sh9000 said:

12 am Monday morning.

*cough* *cough*

Yes.  

And 03:00 AM, Monday, for those of us on the east coast. Make sure to take a nap!

Edited June 23, 2017 by technoblue

[Mac]

Good luck to everyone! I'm going to file for bankruptcy because of all these releases!! haha

[Convectuoso]

It would be nice to have here a countdown widget for HMR releases in different time zones.

[derex3592]

omgggg...yeeeeeees!

[Big s]

Fireworks and preorder madness! This is what our forefathers intended for a holiday.

[no3Ljm]

7 hours ago, jvmacross said:

So looks like PO Madness July 3rd at 4PM JST.....

I'm IN! Thanks JVM!  

7 hours ago, seti88 said:

 Marked in calendar!

Done!

1 hour ago, Convectuoso said:

It would be nice to have here a countdown widget for HMR releases in different time zones.

You can add alert on your smart phone or something. You don't want to look on widget just waiting for that specific time, right?

2 hours ago, Mac said:

Good luck to everyone! I'm going to file for bankruptcy because of all these releases!! haha

Before filing for bankruptcy, try Nissin Cup Noodle Diet or Costco Polish Dog Sandwich Diet first.

 

[Tking22]

This is an easy pass for me, I hate Mac II and its designs. Good news for everyone that likes it though, Bandai will save the day and erase the memory of that rather shoddy Evo version in no time! Surprised this is getting released as early as it is, I would've thought, with Mac II being more niche and less popular, we would see the VF-4 or a VF-0 before this, which I personally would have liked because I would actually buy those, but oh well, Mac II fans can get their fix now.

[mechaninac]

Well, I'm all in, and hopefully Bandai will burrow further into this particular rabbit hole and give us M2 fans, at least of the mecha, a Hi-metal-R version of the striking VF-2JA, and maybe the Destroids too.

[Scyla]

Noooooooo I can't order anything before the 4th of July because I'll be on a plane.  I hope this is available the next day. I'll already missed the Tokyo toy show Black Convoy. 

[davidwhangchoi]

6 hours ago, technoblue said:

*cough* *cough*

Yes.  

And 03:00 AM, Monday, for those of us on the east coast. Make sure to take a nap!

[technoblue]

^It was a duh moment, dwc. 

You'll have to click back a page to see my mistake. There was some confusion about whether we would have to be up early in the morning July 3 or July 4, and @sh9000 cleared that up.

[Valkyrie Hunter D]

<ahem> Squeeee! HMR VF-2SS, and it looks so much cleaner than the bigger one from that other company!  

I was having doubts this one was gonna make it to the production line.

[seti88]

5 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

I'm IN! Thanks JVM!  

Done!

You can add alert on your smart phone or something. You don't want to look on widget just waiting for that specific time, right?

Before filing for bankruptcy, try Nissin Cup Noodle Diet or Costco Polish Dog Sandwich Diet first.

 

nissin noodles equals UFO!! *warning not for the faint of heart *sarcasm*..or is it?

 

[Scream Man]

pics of my friends broken 1S Max. Any ideas for a fix would be most welcome. This was his first Macross toy, so he is pretty disheartened

 

[jenius]

Ah, the same thing that happened to my Roy from the look of it. I couldn't figure out a fix other than keeping it permanently in fighter mode... I now very gently work in the shoulder joints on all HMR purchases. You can imagine how much pressure gets put on that metal piece if the joint is frozen and you go to twist the arm... especially if you do it down at the fist and achieve a lot of leverage. So the culprit is either a faulty metal cast (like a bubble or something) or a frozen shoulder joint combined with leverage.

[hachi]

3 hours ago, Scream Man said:

pics of my friends broken 1S Max. Any ideas for a fix would be most welcome. This was his first Macross toy, so he is pretty disheartened
 

 

Damn, now I don't feel like taking my Max out of the box ever again...

[arbit]

3 hours ago, jenius said:

Ah, the same thing that happened to my Roy from the look of it. I couldn't figure out a fix other than keeping it permanently in fighter mode... I now very gently work in the shoulder joints on all HMR purchases. You can imagine how much pressure gets put on that metal piece if the joint is frozen and you go to twist the arm... especially if you do it down at the fist and achieve a lot of leverage. So the culprit is either a faulty metal cast (like a bubble or something) or a frozen shoulder joint combined with leverage.

Because its not real die cast.

I recently bought my son an old fashioned game of jacks.

I dare you to break these!

[Scream Man]

so theres no replacement bits to be had?

[mechaninac]

The only thing I can think of that might work for a fix on that particular part would be to:

1.  Disassemble the relevant parts to free up the broken shoulder bits;
2.  Temporarily cement the two pieces back together with CA or 2-part epoxy;
3.  Wait for the glue to cure;
4.  Mark the center of the ball joint sphere by tapping on it with a center punch or hard nail;
5.  Secure the part on a vise so that you can drill into it from the front (the tip of the ball joint) with a small diameter (no more than 1/3 the diameter of the thinnest portion of the ball joint's shaft) drill bit that is part of a tap and drill set;
6.  Make sure that a machine screw of the appropriate diameter and thread pitch to go with the tap&drill combo chosen, and of sufficient length to span the whole part, is available;
7.  Slowly start to drill at the center point mark in-line with the ball joint's shaft all the way thru the part until it breaks out the opposite side;
8.  Tap the hole you've made with the tapping tool to create the threads necessary for the machine screw;
9.  Counter bore the hole on the back side of the shoulder part (opposite to the ball joint) with a conical Dremmel bit to create a recess for the screw head so that it will be a flush to the part's surface as possible;
10.  Work the screw in all the way;
11.  File any exposed bit of the screw that pokes out of the ball joint's ball until it is flush with the ball;
12.  If desired, add a little solder to the shaft and ball tip for a smidgen more strength.

I know it's quite involved and requires some specialized tools and materials, and it's not without pitfalls that may ruin the part further, but this is a metal part we're talking about, and if the repair is successful the fixed shoulder will be stronger than the original.

I hope this information is of some help.

Good luck.

[arbit]

Really excited in the direction HMR is going, with rare figures. 

[Xigfrid]

If the part is pure metal, you can try to disassemble it completely and bring the 2 parts to your jeweler, he can probably solder them back

[arbit]

52 minutes ago, Xigfrid said:

If the part is pure metal, you can try to disassemble it completely and bring the 2 parts to your jeweler, he can probably solder them back

Xigfrid, You're a Shapeways guru; What kind of metal composites do you think these guys are using  for the weak joints? Or what's possible these days?

[Xigfrid]

40 minutes ago, arbit said:

Xigfrid, You're a Shapeways guru; What kind of metal composites do you think these guys are using  for the weak joints? Or what's possible these days?

Please don't make me blush with the guru! I am not  

By the look of the color and stress applied to the part, I guessed that it was made out of metal, but if it is a plastic part no wonder it breaks easily. For these kind of small articulation ball I would reinforce the arm with an inner metal pin or make the whole thing in metal instead  

Sorry but I don't have any Hmr, but if it is plastic and large enough to be drilled and pinned, mechaninac's solution would be great

Edited June 24, 2017 by Xigfrid

[Mommar]

July 3rd???  Christ, I need to find a job quick.

[Atheonyirh]

19 hours ago, jenius said:

Ah, the same thing that happened to my Roy from the look of it. I couldn't figure out a fix other than keeping it permanently in fighter mode... I now very gently work in the shoulder joints on all HMR purchases. You can imagine how much pressure gets put on that metal piece if the joint is frozen and you go to twist the arm... especially if you do it down at the fist and achieve a lot of leverage. So the culprit is either a faulty metal cast (like a bubble or something) or a frozen shoulder joint combined with leverage.

I'll admit, your Roy's problem got me to do the same. Every time I've gotten one I firmly grasp the arm and clavicle and roll the joint around with gentle, firm pressure to make sure it's not locked up. Just sort of gently push it in every direction and rotate it to make sure nothing is frozen or snagging or anything else.

[Mommar]

I've been trying to study the 2SS photo and Instill think we're going to end up with underside kibble.  The hip joint is still visible on the bottom and unlike the prototype which had the white joints this new one has black which will show up more on yhe undercarriage now.

[jenius]

Since it's HMR, i wouldn't be surprised if there's a separate piece for making fighter mode look better. 

[sh9000]

I'll keep the HMR VF-2SS in battroid mode most of the time and keep the old 1/100 model kit in fighter mode.

One more week!  

Edited June 25, 2017 by sh9000

[Mommar]

6 hours ago, jenius said:

Since it's HMR, i wouldn't be surprised if there's a separate piece for making fighter mode look better. 

But what kind of piece would go where now?  It's not going to cover giant lumps.

[sh9000]

It would be cool if these are included.

[technoblue]

Yeah. I think a certain amount of kibble will be unavoidable with this design. I don't know which color is better for blending in the hip mechanism, but I do like how the black looks with all the super parts attached. The white on that first prototype with no parts attached stuck out as obvious to me. It will be interesting to see what color is used in the final retail version.

I like how the HM-R hip mechanism appears to sit back farther in fighter mode compared to ET's mechanism. That makes me very curious to see how it all works. And if the HM-R VF-2SS does a better job preserving the cockpit silhouette in fighter mode--where the cockpit, pelvic fin thingy, and battroid head all line up in a row--then I'll be very happy.

I wasn't happy with how ET's mechanism broke that line.

[Universe1010]

Wonder when the ve-1 and vt-1 and the remaining baddies from the vote that happened a while back will come to fruition.

[Podtastic]

5 hours ago, monishb said:

Wonder when the ve-1 and vt-1 and the remaining baddies from the vote that happened a while back will come to fruition.

I wonder if it will happen at all. Its been over a year since we got the last enemy mecha, and no news whatsoever.