Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Finished printing. Should allow for enough room with super/strike parts.

nKocN7Cl.jpg

ecRF77Jl.jpg

ZQMaWlKl.jpg

vKRe2Ril.jpg

fBkubPNl.jpg

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

Hello all,

Hopefully I have not overstayed my welcome, and mods bump this post someplace else if need be. I am posting in the Toys section because YetiStand is about 90% ready to be sold. I have some tolerance issues to look into, but this thing is looking good! Please watch my rambling video and let me know what you think.

dtuFELzl.jpg

oRuaPwsl.jpg

bJeAt7Ll.jpg

mJm3aBol.jpg

3SfZQz9l.jpg

IqwNjWvl.jpg

uEN0xFel.jpg

looks awesome man! Where do I buy? Im from Canada btw

Posted

Check out the webstore! http://www.yetistand.com/

The stand has changed a bit since I started this thread. All for the better!

thanks! And book marked. Shared with my pals on another board. Just a bit Pricey for me at this point. I will need to get three at least and have to wait to see if I have the spare cash flow. $150 plus is a bit steep. But will get down the road.

Posted (edited)

thanks! And book marked. Shared with my pals on another board. Just a bit Pricey for me at this point. I will need to get three at least and have to wait to see if I have the spare cash flow. $150 plus is a bit steep. But will get down the road.

Just get one stand and a few dual arms. 3 Valks on one stand is pretty common at this point.

http://www.yetistand.com/product/yetistand-dual-arm

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

Finished printing. Should allow for enough room with super/strike parts.

nKocN7Cl.jpg

ecRF77Jl.jpg

ZQMaWlKl.jpg

vKRe2Ril.jpg

fBkubPNl.jpg

I should mention that similarly to using the stand adapter it comes with, it is necessary to drop the legs and swing bar from their seated position to get enough clearance to attach the adapter.

Posted

Is there anyway to design some stand for 1/48s and 1/60s with GBP armor? I would love to see the battroids posing as if in space rather then on the ground.

Posted

I do have a 1/48 woodland with woodland GBP. As long as people keep buying stuff, I can keep making stuff :)

Speaking of which...

F2aFCetl.jpg

hnZYDZGl.jpg

Posted

Finished printing. Should allow for enough room with super/strike parts.

The adapter is looking good. Looks like there is a bit of lip on the rear of the adapter to help brace the and lessen the tilt back of the valk. I see a bit a of tilt back when I have the super/strike parts on the VF-1.

Posted

Can I post those pics in a few threads over at TFW? :)

Please do!

The adapter is looking good. Looks like there is a bit of lip on the rear of the adapter to help brace the and lessen the tilt back of the valk. I see a bit a of tilt back when I have the super/strike parts on the VF-1.

Wanna send me some shipping $ for a handful of samples?

Posted

Wow, looks like I need to head over to your store for some VF-1 v1 and v2 adaptors. Speaking of v1, any intrest in designing some v1 adaptors for the v1 VF-25??? Thanks again.

Posted

I don't have the new adapters up on the site yet. I have sent some out to someone who has fast packs on their v2's.

Does anyone want to test to v1 adapters? Looking for someone who has v1 vf-1's w/packs. I'll send you a few for the cost of shipping. $6.

Posted

... Speaking of v1, any intrest in designing some v1 adaptors for the v1 VF-25??? Thanks again.

I don't have a v1 messiah on hand. I'll look around for a cheap one and see if I can come up with something. I have looked at doing one for the renewal messiahs to circumvent the bandai cradle. The underside of the renewals are pretty sleak. There isn't much to get a hold of. The tabs that peg in under the cockpit are pretty far forward, and wouldn't be a good mounting point on their own. I have a feeling the v1 messiahs are a little clunkier and I may be able to design something that fits.

Posted

I don't have a v1 messiah on hand. I'll look around for a cheap one and see if I can come up with something. I have looked at doing one for the renewal messiahs to circumvent the bandai cradle. The underside of the renewals are pretty sleak. There isn't much to get a hold of. The tabs that peg in under the cockpit are pretty far forward, and wouldn't be a good mounting point on their own. I have a feeling the v1 messiahs are a little clunkier and I may be able to design something that fits.

Wow cool, well let me know, I have no issues letting you borrow a v1 messiah to practice on.

Posted (edited)

Is there anyway to design some stand for 1/48s and 1/60s with GBP armor? I would love to see the battroids posing as if in space rather then on the ground.

It has been awhile since I looked into this. I just got my valk all dressed up again, and I am not seeing a "safe" place to attach to. The one possible solution would be a fork type adapter up the backpack, but that means that hinge would be supporting a lot of weight. I've also thought about trying something with the waist, but between the wings and the diaper there isn't much there either.

NRSo9w6l.jpg

2VOH7gkl.jpg

ouNkRONl.jpg

ApaZxlkl.jpg

Edit: Working on a 'fork'. Should be able to safely support this fatty.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

Got my 2nd order of YetiStands today! Yeti ships FAST! Try to get around to playing with them this weekend. Any word on the small 2 inch double arm you were working on?

Posted

I tried to ship as soon as I can. Nothing beats having happy customers!

I do have a small 3 pivot arm in 3d printed form. I sent some samples to someone. Let's call him Chubaro as to not point fingers. He hasn't said much about them. Not sure if they are worth getting cut. PM me if you are interested in getting some samples of them.

S1o8fX5l.jpg

Posted (edited)

I tried to ship as soon as I can. Nothing beats having happy customers!

I do have a small 3 pivot arm in 3d printed form. I sent some samples to someone. Let's call him Chubaro as to not point fingers. He hasn't said much about them. Not sure if they are worth getting cut. PM me if you are interested in getting some samples of them.

S1o8fX5l.jpg

That's cool, that Chubaro guy must be really busy. :( I am sure he'll get to some builds soon... this weekend. :D

Edited by Saburo
Posted

It won't be up on the site just yet. If you do make an order, just pm me on here and I'll make sure it gets in your order.

Posted

That new adaptor really brings the 1/48 GBP to life, awesome work Yeti.

Do you think it will be safe for the long run? I know those back back hinges are a little on the weak side.

Posted

That new adaptor really brings the 1/48 GBP to life, awesome work Yeti.

Do you think it will be safe for the long run? I know those back back hinges are a little on the weak side.

It is not actually resting on just the hinge. It also rests on the back of the fuselage on top of the wings. I've had my woodland on it since I took the picture. I checked it this morning and there isn't any signs of stress. It works out pretty nice.

Posted

Thanks Yeti,

I'm yet to pull the trigger on a set of stands....I'm not sure where to start.

I think I will read the the last few pages again.

Posted

It might be nice to see something that can be plugged in to the 5mm holes and connect the arms. Is it reasonable?

Posted (edited)

It might be nice to see something that can be plugged in to the 5mm holes and connect the arms. Is it reasonable?

0AAKT6Zl.jpg

Z4lyzJXl.jpg

ih3uCzkl.jpg

You can use an elbow to do this, but there are two issues with the included hardware. The head on the bolt is too tall, and the hole is not wide enough. I widened the hole in the base with a 7/32 (5.5663mm) drill bit. I would suggest looking for a different bolt/washer combo (Smaller with a shallow head) if you want to do this with the pegged base. I don't recommend you use the stand this way.

I have actually thought about making a pivot point that could peg into the holes, but that would not be ideal. I explain something like this in a previous post:

I have had someone ask a question about designing something unrelated to this adapter, but I will use it as an example. They wanted to know if I could just have all of the adapters connect to a faceted peg for extra degrees of freedom. I voiced my concerns about doing so, and was going to give some examples as to why. I figured I would just post it here in a broader sense. I like talking about this stuff, so just take it as a little insight into what goes into these.
My 3d printer is FDM. This means it prints one 2 dimensional slice of a 3d object, and than moves up slightly to print the next layer. You have probably noticed the striations of each layer if you have held one of my 3d printed adapters in your hand, or seen them in pictures. This layering is something that you have to take into consideration when printing with FDM. Details that follow each layer in length are much stronger than small areas that layer on top of themselves. Here are three examples of print orientation on this adapter I am currently working on.
This orientation has several issues. It will require a lot of support material to be printed in order to allow the amount over overhang (printing over an area without material deposited beneath it on the previous layer), and this support material is waste that is discarded after the print and can be difficult to remove if not thought out before hand. It will also be prone to break as the layers run in line with thin walls, and areas that need to be strong. The tab on the bottom that goes into the stand adapter has a high potential to break, as does the gunpod cage and 'teeth' at the top.
tVInR7xl.jpg
This orientation also has issues. It will require a lot of support material. Although the gunpod cage portion will be strong length-wise since it is a large area aligned with the layers, the ends of the longer runs near the adapter tab will be prone to breaking. You will also notice that small peg on top that connects to the valk hip bolt hole on the 1/60 v2 vf-1's. That peg is mirrored on both sides. This means that for the entire print, the only piece that is actually supported by the print bed is the peg on the opposite side. This can cause issues with the part not staying put for the duration of the print. You will also notice that the peg is a small detail and looking at the orientation of the layers you can tell that the peg may be prone to breaking off. For something so short, this may be unlikely, but if this was made longer there would be an increased chance of breakage.
kYQGedGl.jpg
This is the orientation that works best for this item. The areas that need to be strong and durable work with the layers, and there is minimal need for support material compared to the other orientations.
l7MHKgfl.jpg
I hope this helps anyone understand this process a little bit better. There are constraints, but I can usually design my way around them.
Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

Dang! this is so pretty! :o^_^

Thank you! My "Assistant" did a good job on processing the photos. :lol:

Nice. Strike patrol!

Mahalo! Kakizaki was late, so he wasn't able to make it. He'll show up eventually.

Guest davidwhangchoi
Posted (edited)

Thank you! My "Assistant" did a good job on processing the photos. :lol:

Mahalo! Kakizaki was late, so he wasn't able to make it. He'll show up eventually.

the twin reaction missile holder should be on the outer hollow point of the wing (i just learned this yesterday reading the yamato instructions) :p

https://50bfaea075d5b3f31afaafcd3648e309bb79b932.googledrive.com/host/0B1QEbMjj9aglRnFYVm5JRU5adVk/2011/01/img968.jpg

Edited by davidwhangchoi

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...