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Posted

Ambroid and Tenax require a very close fit, and IMHO would be worse than white glue for my situation. Tenax won't work with a nearly millimeter-wide gap between parts.

The one stand really didn't need glue at all, as the fit was likely sufficient on its own. The other--we'll see, may have to use the 3D printed base if my stuff doesn't hold well.

Posted

Ambroid and Tenax require a very close fit, and IMHO would be worse than white glue for my situation. Tenax won't work with a nearly millimeter-wide gap between parts.

The one stand really didn't need glue at all, as the fit was likely sufficient on its own. The other--we'll see, may have to use the 3D printed base if my stuff doesn't hold well.

http://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10319-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B0046768VS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411250429&sr=8-3&keywords=scigrip+16

Posted

Those should work. Look for solvent/cement, not glue. You want to actually bond the pieces together, not adhere them.

I found Plastruct Plastic Weld at my local hobby shop, which is Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It was right next to Tenax-7R and came with an applicator. It is also marketed as a plastic solvent cement. For the life of me, though, I cannot get the acrylic adapters to sit flush like the 3D printed ones. Here is a picture showing the source of the wobble I noted earlier:

post-5492-0-79885200-1411250541_thumb.jpg

I've been sanding them a bit at a time in the hope that I can tame the lip that I highlighted in red, but I'm in no rush now that the printed versions are giving me a working solution. Knowing myself, I might break something before figuring out how to fix it right. LoL! Oh well.

After getting hung up with that this morning, the stands went together pretty quickly. I should have them outfitted with Valkyries soon, and then more pictures...

Posted

I found Plastruct Plastic Weld at my local hobby shop, which is Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It was right next to Tenax-7R and came with an applicator. It is also marketed as a plastic solvent cement. For the life of me, though, I cannot get the acrylic adapters to sit flush like the 3D printed ones. Here is a picture showing the source of the wobble I noted earlier:

attachicon.gifacrylic_lip.jpg

I've been sanding them a bit at a time in the hope that I can tame the lip that I highlighted in red, but I'm in no rush now that the printed versions are giving me a working solution. Knowing myself, I might break something before figuring out how to fix it right. LoL! Oh well.

After getting hung up with that this morning, the stands went together pretty quickly. I should have them outfitted with Valkyries soon, and then more pictures...

Sorry about that. This all has to do with the way the acrylic was originally laser cut. To fix this, I took random samples of the base pivots and bases when I was determining how much to route off. Once it seemed like I had the right amount, I just pushed all of the base pivots through the router.

Posted

I think it's pretty crummy that the supplier wouldn't work with you. It seems unfair to me, especially if they were showcasing better variances when trying to win your business.

For me, it's okay. The 3D pieces are exact, and I am happy with the product. I'll keep sanding/filing to see what I can do with the acrylic adapters. If I can get one or two to work, then I'll post some pictures of them in action. :)

Posted

I found Plastruct Plastic Weld at my local hobby shop, which is Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It was right next to Tenax-7R and came with an applicator. It is also marketed as a plastic solvent cement. For the life of me, though, I cannot get the acrylic adapters to sit flush like the 3D printed ones. Here is a picture showing the source of the wobble I noted earlier:

acrylic_lip.jpg

I've been sanding them a bit at a time in the hope that I can tame the lip that I highlighted in red, but I'm in no rush now that the printed versions are giving me a working solution. Knowing myself, I might break something before figuring out how to fix it right. LoL! Oh well.

After getting hung up with that this morning, the stands went together pretty quickly. I should have them outfitted with Valkyries soon, and then more pictures...

Whoh buddy, be careful with that stuff. MEK is all sorts of nasty for your health.

Posted

Wow. Haven't been keeping up but the stands look incredible. And by look I mean you can barely see them. I just realized I bought a cleaner for my printer that's made for cleaning acrylics. It's called Novus 1 if anyone is looking.

Posted (edited)

Ambroid and Tenax require a very close fit, and IMHO would be worse than white glue for my situation. Tenax won't work with a nearly millimeter-wide gap between parts.

The one stand really didn't need glue at all, as the fit was likely sufficient on its own. The other--we'll see, may have to use the 3D printed base if my stuff doesn't hold well.

One of my stands had small amount of gap. I tried to keep long side of the pivot piece to be flush with one side of the slot in the base and used the pro-weld there. I hope that made sense.

My new Valk arrived today. :D Here are couple more photos.

15116173577_bf4149af86_b.jpg

15299587111_b2eebd403c_b.jpg

Edited by Saburo
Posted

Whoh buddy, be careful with that stuff. MEK is all sorts of nasty for your health.

Thanks. I try to have a good ventilation set up in my work room, but a reminder never hurts. Most of my modeling cements, solvents, and glues are shut tight and locked away when I'm not using them too.

Posted

One of my stands had small amount of gap. I tried to keep long side of the pivot piece to be flush with one side of the slot in the base and used the pro-weld there. I hope that made sense.

That does make sense, and I considered that, but feared prolonged weight/stress against the "other" side would shear the parts apart or something.
Posted

That does make sense, and I considered that, but feared prolonged weight/stress against the "other" side would shear the parts apart or something.

Maybe bond one side and use a gap filler on the other side to help reduce the stress on the part?

Posted (edited)

I followed Saburo's method using the solvent that I picked up today. In order to carefully apply it, I used toothpicks and made sure to add one drop at a time to the smooth face of the adapter, which cut down on my mistakes. In the end, I think Hikaru approves:

post-5492-0-35941400-1411265818_thumb.jpg

Once I applied the solvent correctly, the acrylic bonded really fast. I waited about 15 minutes before attaching the adjustable arms. I'm going to let the stand sit over night before adding the weight of a Valkyrie in case there is a cure time. You can also see the 3D printed adapter in the background. That piece fits nice and snug on its own.

Edited by technoblue
Posted

Finally got some time to play with the stands tonight. Just took a couple of black poster boards and snapped a few pictures. I apologize for the poor quality of the pictures. :lol:

First is the VE-1:

ve-1_01.jpg

ve-1_03.jpg

ve-1_02.jpg

Very sturdy even for hard banking.

RVF-25 with Super and Ghosts:

rvf25_01.jpg

Lego Millennium Falcon:

This is the small one.

mf_01.jpg

mf_02.jpg

I used the 4x4 adapter. It is very sturdy. However, the 2x4 adapter just cannot hold the Millennium Falcon at all: :( May have to glue 2x4 adapter to a 2x4 lego block. Any suggestion as to what glue to use?

Posted (edited)

You are the second one to say something about the 2x4's. I am not sure what could be wrong. The 2x4's I have work well. If you are having an issue with those not working, pm me. I'll send you another 4x4 for the cost of shipping.

And nice pics!

Good to see another RVF-25 ghost setup

rvf25_01.jpg

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

It looks like international orders are starting to land. Please let me know how well they traveled.

Posted

So for so good on my glued base pivots. Gave two full days to dry. Used Beacon 527 glue. Now, I wouldn't use that glue for a "stressed" joint, but as the base pivot is being pushed into the base itself by gravity (and the valk!) it should be fine.

Posted (edited)

Did more testing of the stands. This time I used the VF-0 with ghost to see if it'll hold. Both bases are not fused to the base but hold the valks fine but in the 3rd pic the Valk on the right had the base attachment jutting up just a little but should be okay when I actually fuse it. It holds the VF-11 fine. Like it says in the instructions, use common sense and adjust for the center of gravity. I'm just experimenting to see how far I can go with these.

post-7577-0-48561300-1411424295_thumb.jpgpost-7577-0-87377000-1411424403_thumb.jpgpost-7577-0-50258300-1411424539_thumb.jpgpost-7577-0-20771400-1411424563_thumb.jpgpost-7577-0-09174300-1411424598_thumb.jpgpost-7577-0-97046300-1411424701_thumb.jpg

Edited by wmkjr
Posted

Thanks! Hopefully more folks show their stands in action soon. I like to see all the different poses.

Posted

Thanks! Hopefully more folks show their stands in action soon. I like to see all the different poses.

Me too! This is the best part. A huge weight off of my shoulders to be getting positive feedback.

Posted

Did more testing of the stands. This time I used the VF-0 with ghost to see if it'll hold. Both bases are not fused to the base but hold the valks fine but in the 3rd pic the Valk on the right had the base attachment jutting up just a little but should be okay when I actually fuse it. It holds the VF-11 fine. Like it says in the instructions, use common sense and adjust for the center of gravity. I'm just experimenting to see how far I can go with these.

Nice poses and shots! The VF-0 looks good with the booster, I might have to track down a booster for my VF-0S...

Posted

One of my stands was more wobbly than the other. This might not be elegant enough for some of you, but I tore a piece of paper to the right length and several times the width of the slot, folded it over several times, and shoved it in along with the base piece. No wobble, base will stay attached if you pick it up by the figure. All a matter of getting the right number of folds.

Looking forward to the next run.

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