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Posted

As promised, I'm going to attempt my first ever build up of Jasmine's photoetch VF-1. The box arrived slightly less than two weeks after it was shipped, and luckily, Canada Customs saw fit to not charge me the applicable fees!

The kit has 3 sheets of thin photoetch, a great construction manual, and a bag of resin parts. The photoetch is sandwitched in between two thin plastic layers, and I plan on leaving one layer on to prevent parts from flying off as I cut them out of the tree.

Keeping in mind that I haven't completed any serious amounts of photoetch, one must wonder WHY I decided to jump in with both feet. The simple answer is because this looks cool. That and I may be slightly insane. But mostly, because this looks damn cool.

post-122-0-77745600-1405691491_thumb.jpg

This is everything that's in the box.

post-122-0-67116400-1405691468_thumb.jpg

AA battery for scale of parts.

Be warned, I'm a slowish builder and I won't be starting this kit for a few days, but I'll keep you guys posted!

Posted

Will you need a HoldnFold for this kit?

Also you got some PE Scissors.

Advice for removing parts cover one side of the sheet with sticky tape, this will prevent smaller parts from launching themselves into ......

Posted

Will you need a HoldnFold for this kit?

Also you got some PE Scissors.

Advice for removing parts cover one side of the sheet with sticky tape, this will prevent smaller parts from launching themselves into ......

I don't think I'll need a fold and hold for this kit.

The frets came sandwitched in some sort of packing plastic. I think I'll leave one layer on to hold the parts in place while I cut them out. Otherwise I'll use the sticky tape method, which I've done before both with plastic kit parts and the bits of photo etch (or is it laser etch?) parts.

Posted

post-122-0-76081400-1405704422_thumb.jpg

From Left to right: Files, tweezers (clamping and slide locking), some sort of weird type of needle nose pliers (you can use the rounded tips to put curves into parts), a home made super- precise superglue applicator, knife and extra blades.

The superglue applicator is something that was passed on to me from the local hobby shop. Basically, you take a needle, and chuck it into your pin vise. Using a wire snip or a piece of sand paper, you cut the top off of the needle eye. This gives you two prongs to draw up a tiny amount of superglue to put where you need it. To clean the tip, just stick it into an open flame to burn off the superglue.

I probably won't be using the larger needle nose pliers that is pictured above the row of tools, but you never know...

Posted

Thanks for starting this thread - this kit has really tempted me for a while now. I'll be following closely!

Best of luck!

Posted (edited)

Thanks WM! I've followed your previous threads with jealousy and envy back in the day!

Today's progress:

post-122-0-50472000-1405812136_thumb.jpg

post-122-0-43070400-1405812150_thumb.jpg

Nothing too much to report, but some observations: Bending the small tabs must be done with precision. You've only got a little bit of leeway before metal fatigue begins to want to crack the small bend joints. These bends can be achieved by hand or with a small set of tweezers. I've tried both, and the tweezers are a little easier. You can see in the first shot the tape I've applied to the rear side of the fret, and after cutting the part out, I just peel the tape off a bit to pull the part away.

I do wish that the pieces fit together with a bit more tightness, so that they don't move around while I'm gluing them, however.

EDIT: I realized I probably should mention that it's best to install the three pieces in the order of front-to-back, although putting the first, and third, and then the middle piece will work out too. Naturally, since this is all metal, a mistake can be fixed with a little bit of debonder and a re-try.

Edited by VF-19
Posted

This is quite awesome! Looks like you've got a good start. I will be watching this thread very closely. Can't wait to see it completed. Keep up the great work!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

OK. Back at it for a bit. Not too hard, but the instructions could use a mention as to which side should be facing you when you start to do multiple folds, in particular the two pieces that begin to form the fuselage top.

The next step involves the multiple pieces that form the nose. YIKES!

Not too happy with a couple of the glue joints. I may zap it with some de-bonder and try again.

post-122-0-59455000-1407182683_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

As promised, I'm going to attempt my first ever build up of Jasmine's photoetch VF-1. The box arrived slightly less than two weeks after it was shipped, and luckily, Canada Customs saw fit to not charge me the applicable fees!

The kit has 3 sheets of thin photoetch, a great construction manual, and a bag of resin parts. The photoetch is sandwitched in between two thin plastic layers, and I plan on leaving one layer on to prevent parts from flying off as I cut them out of the tree.

Keeping in mind that I haven't completed any serious amounts of photoetch, one must wonder WHY I decided to jump in with both feet. The simple answer is because this looks cool. That and I may be slightly insane. But mostly, because this looks damn cool.

attachicon.gifP7180122.JPG

This is everything that's in the box.

attachicon.gifP7180126.JPG

AA battery for scale of parts.

Be warned, I'm a slowish builder and I won't be starting this kit for a few days, but I'll keep you guys posted!

You know.... this is candy to my eyes :D

Must......have......my......own!!!!!

  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks a great tip on how to apply the crazy glue. I have a set for the vf 25 and been wondering the best way to apply. Any tip in how to delay the setting time so one has time to adjust?

Posted

Hey Strike_kf. Superglues pretty much have to be bought slower curing. You can't dilute them or anything. Look up Zap CA brands. Also mentioned above is taking a needle and cutting the top portion of the eye off. I made one years ago and use it a lot. When the glue dries between the prongs, just break it off to clean it.-MT

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