Macross maintenance.

[Marauder]

59 minutes ago, Angesdad said:

I had pretty much the exact same issue on Hikaru 1S except mine was loose when the right foot is opened up in battroid/gerwalk mode. Turned out it is the roll pin not sitting flush in the groove, a manufacturer defect. Try grabbing the part that is loose and move it side to side, you may find some play where it shouldn’t. I just ended up applying some of that Kiki stuff in between which made it a bit tighter but we all know it’s only a temporary fix.

Good to know @Angesdad, I have the same issue on my Hikaru 1S's right foot as well and now that you mention it, there is a very minor play from side to side too.  

I will give the the future polish (which seems to have a new name "Pledge floor gloss")as mentioned by @Slave IV (TYVM for the suggestion) as well as the kiki when I gets shipped to me.

Edited September 1, 2021 by Marauder

[Slave IV]

17 minutes ago, Marauder said:

Good to know @Angesdad, I have the same issue on my Hikaru 1S's right foot as well and now that you mention it, there is a very minor play from side to side too.  

I will give the the future polish (which seems to have a new name "Pledge floor gloss")as mentioned by @Slave IV (TYVM for the suggestion) as well as the kiki when I gets shipped to me.

Hope it works out. Yeah, Future floor polish is under the Pledge brand now. But you don’t need both if you are getting Kiki. Like I mentioned, they are both for the same purpose so if you already ordered one, you’re good to go. 

Edited September 1, 2021 by Slave IV

[Angesdad]

Hi @Marauder, if using Kiki, put it on and leave it for a couple of days to cure. It will not seize up as the instructions says. This stuff is quite thin to fill a considerable gap (in this case between the metal parts vs plastic) and you may need multiple applications to achieve a certain resistance in the joint.

Well what can I say about Bandai’s lack of QC. Seems to me they send all the defective Valks to Canada, eh.😆

 

[Marauder]

Thanks @Slave IV and @Angesdad, I will be getting the Kiki thing by Sunday, will try it out then. Hopefully it works out.

[no3Ljm]

Hey @Marauder. Looks like these awesome people here already helped you out.  

And as far as figure inspecting goes, I think what everyone suggested is to use the Kiki stuff.  

 

[Marauder]

Quick update on my Vf-1dx loose foot issue. The Kiki solution worked and the hinge works well. Hopefully it will stay on 

thanks @no3Ljm, @Slave IV, @Angesdad and @Sanity is Optional for your help.

[no3Ljm]

18 minutes ago, Marauder said:

Quick update on my Vf-1dx loose foot issue. The Kiki solution worked and the hinge works well. Hopefully it will stay on 

thanks @no3Ljm, @Slave IV, @Angesdad and @Sanity is Optional for your help.

Cool cool cool! Glad it worked out well.  

 

[Sanity is Optional]

Glad that did the trick for you.

[Slave IV]

Good to hear!

[Angesdad]

Hello, has anyone had balls to disassemble a DX 1J head visor because you had to fix it, repaint it, etc? - Just that my 1J copy has a rather bad paint job & finish on the clear green part that I would like to isolate and refinish the clear green. I tried polishing it with Tamiya polish but can't get rid of dust nibs. I've done a 1S as a big piece of fiber was stuck on clear green part and painted over. Yup, my OCD is kicking in.

[levzloi]

2 minutes ago, Angesdad said:

Hello, has anyone had balls to disassemble a DX 1J head visor because you had to fix it, repaint it, etc? - Just that my 1J copy has a rather bad paint job & finish on the clear green part that I would like to isolate and refinish the clear green. I tried polishing it with Tamiya polish but can't get rid of dust nibs. I've done a 1S as a big piece of fiber was stuck on clear green part and painted over. Yup, my OCD is kicking in.

Seriously recommend against it, I did a Yamato 1J head for the total repaint in my profile, trying to pry apart only deformed the plastic, and in order to get the parts to separate I had to soak it in goo gone overnight, which destroyed the paint and I'm assuming would remove the tampo.  In other words, unless you're doing a complete custom you're probably only going to make it worse.

[no3Ljm]

12 minutes ago, levzloi said:

In other words, unless you're doing a complete custom you're probably only going to make it worse.

I second this sentiment.  

 

[Angesdad]

55 minutes ago, levzloi said:

Seriously recommend against it, I did a Yamato 1J head for the total repaint in my profile, trying to pry apart only deformed the plastic, and in order to get the parts to separate I had to soak it in goo gone overnight, which destroyed the paint and I'm assuming would remove the tampo.  In other words, unless you're doing a complete custom you're probably only going to make it worse.

Just what I needed to hear from someone who's attempted it. Thanks @levzloi, my biggest concern was exactly that which is to disassemble without causing damage but I guess it'll be extremely difficult as freezing heating prying dipping biting with teeth will have to be involved. Only if these parts weren't superglued..

Edited October 26, 2021 by Angesdad

[levzloi]

14 minutes ago, Angesdad said:

Just what I needed to hear from someone who's attempted it. Thanks @levzloi, my biggest concern was exactly that which is to disassemble without causing damage but I guess it'll be extremely difficult as freezing heating prying dipping biting with teeth will have to be involved. Only if these parts weren't superglued..

No problem, here's the project thread, and I should have said "almost certainly" rather than "probably".

 

[no3Ljm]

 

[aurance]

I’m attempting to tighten my VF-19S’s ankles today, I’m hoping it helps with gerwalk! At this point all my Valks are like 50% Pledge/Future by mass, hah.

[badboy00z]

Does anyone know how to (if it's even possible) tighten the hip joints on the DX VF-31s? Even though they're ratcheted the ones on my Messer is looser than I'd like.

Also what about the waist twist joint? I tried taking it apart (2 screws) but I didn't want to try prying the plastic apart with force.

[badboy00z]

On 12/28/2021 at 3:12 PM, aurance said:

I’m attempting to tighten my VF-19S’s ankles today, I’m hoping it helps with gerwalk! At this point all my Valks are like 50% Pledge/Future by mass, hah.

How did it go for you? Was it the ball & socket joint or the pivot joint or both that was loose? The right side pivot joint on mine is too loose but the screw or plastic is striped so the screw just keeps on turning. Is there a way to remove the screw without damage?

[aurance]

6 hours ago, badboy00z said:

How did it go for you? Was it the ball & socket joint or the pivot joint or both that was loose? The right side pivot joint on mine is too loose but the screw or plastic is striped so the screw just keeps on turning. Is there a way to remove the screw without damage?

Sorry bud, for me it was only the ball joint and not the part you circled. I loosened the screws near the ball joint and dropped figure into the cup and re-tightened the screws and it worked well, but I don’t think that will help you ☹️
 

You could try putting future on that pivot without loosening the screw, tilt back and forth, and see if any of it slides in between the surfaces. Repeat many times.

Edited February 28, 2022 by aurance

[pengbuzz]

1 hour ago, aurance said:

Sorry bud, for me it was only the ball joint and not the part you circled. I loosened the screws near the ball joint and dropped figure into the cup and re-tightened the screws and it worked well, but I don’t think that will help you ☹️
 

You could try putting future on that pivot without loosening the screw, tilt back and forth, and see if any of it slides in between the surfaces. Repeat many times.

That ankle joint looks hella thin! Is it metal or something?

[aurance]

3 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

That ankle joint looks hella thin! Is it metal or something?

It’s metal yeah. The strut itself is pretty sturdy so no worries about snapping or anything.

[Sandman]

So i picked up an Arcadia Sv-51 Ivanov for a good price. When i got it i realized why. It stinks from being in a smoker's house. Is there anyway to get rid of that smell. I've left it in a draft room for a month. No change. 

[pengbuzz]

2 minutes ago, Sandman said:

So i picked up an Arcadia Sv-51 Ivanov for a good price. When i got it i realized why. It stinks from being in a smoker's house. Is there anyway to get rid of that smell. I've left it in a draft room for a month. No change. 

It probably has smoke residue from the house on it. I would try wiping it down with a mild detergent (like dish soap) and warm water and see if that helps.

[Sandman]

8 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

It probably has smoke residue from the house on it. I would try wiping it down with a mild detergent (like dish soap) and warm water and see if that helps.

Thanks i'll give that a try.

[no3Ljm]

19 minutes ago, Sandman said:

So i picked up an Arcadia Sv-51 Ivanov for a good price. When i got it i realized why. It stinks from being in a smoker's house. Is there anyway to get rid of that smell. I've left it in a draft room for a month. No change. 

I asked the same question on the previous page.  

 

[Sandman]

I need to swap out the head laser on my vf-31j. What is a good way to remove it? I'm afraid of breaking it.

[no3Ljm]

1 hour ago, Sandman said:

I need to swap out the head laser on my vf-31j. What is a good way to remove it? I'm afraid of breaking it.

This is a quote from @MacrossJunkie's original post from Bandai DX VF-31 thread.

Quote

For those that want to know how to take the laser off, pull the head off, then use something like a precision screwdriver and push on the green circled part until it pops out.

 

[Sandman]

On 3/7/2022 at 4:30 PM, no3Ljm said:

This is a quote from @MacrossJunkie's original post from Bandai DX VF-31 thread.

 

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

[Angesdad]

Putting it up here as per a member request;

Had an excessively wobbly arm joint on vf31 as shown in the photo below. Unscrew x1 on the backside of the shoulder piece and the whole arm detaches. The upper arm (grey part) is two halves put together by x1 screw, and to get to it you need to take off the outer armor piece. Use Hot water to submerge the part to loosen glue inside.  Slide it out horizontally using a nylon/plastic pry tool to minimize damage. Once the armor is off, tighten the exposed screw and even apply a dab of CA glue to keep'em shut. The wobble significantly improved. One happy customer.

Edited March 11, 2022 by Angesdad

[badboy00z]

Is there a way to tight the thigh swivel on the Arcadia VF-0S? Mine will want to do the splits in GERWALK mode if I don't have the legs at just the right angle. Plus my desk doesn't provide good traction. 

[no3Ljm]

1 hour ago, badboy00z said:

Is there a way to tight the thigh swivel on the Arcadia VF-0S? Mine will want to do the splits in GERWALK mode if I don't have the legs at just the right angle. Plus my desk doesn't provide good traction. 

Since you mentioned Gerwalk mode and it's doing splits, then are you referring to the knee joint instead of the thigh joint? And not the joint by the intake area that connects to the nosecone nor the pull-out Gerwalk joint, correct?

 

Check out @ChaoticYeti's VF-0 hip joint fix. On how he opened that area to fix the hip joint. By opening that area, you will be able to gain access on the knee joint. Hope that helps.

 

 

 

Edited March 12, 2022 by no3Ljm

[badboy00z]

1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Since you mentioned Gerwalk mode and it's doing splits, then are you referring to the knee joint instead of the thigh joint? And not the joint by the intake area that connects to the nosecone nor the pull-out Gerwalk joint, correct?

 

Check out @ChaoticYeti's VF-0 hip joint fix. On how he opened that area to fix the hip joint. By opening that area, you will be able to gain access on the knee joint. Hope that helps.

 

 

 

It's not the gerwalk or the hip joints. It's the rotation joint right above the knee.

[no3Ljm]

25 minutes ago, badboy00z said:

It's not the gerwalk or the hip joints. It's the rotation joint right above the knee.

Yup. I'm thinking the same thing when I mentioned knee joint. So it's basically the rotating knee joint section.

So like what I posted above, if you checked @ChaoticYeti's video, you'll get the idea on how to open it to be able to access the said joint. Beyond that, since the fix he posted on that YouTube is the thigh/nosecone joint, I'm not sure on how to split that parts apart to reveal the rotating joint after you open the thigh section.

[badboy00z]

51 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Yup. I'm thinking the same thing when I mentioned knee joint. So it's basically the rotating knee joint section.

So like what I posted above, if you checked @ChaoticYeti's video, you'll get the idea on how to open it to be able to access the said joint. Beyond that, since the fix he posted on that YouTube is the thigh/nosecone joint, I'm not sure on how to split that parts apart to reveal the rotating joint after you open the thigh section.

Yeah that's the joint. 

[RealJayDee]

Hey guys sorry if this is not the right place but I've had no luck finding an old yammie v2 1/60 thread.

Anyway I noticed that one of the "intake" markings at the side of the chest piece is barely noticeable. 

Was this a noticed QC with your copies as well? Or is it paint degradation from handling? 

I compared it vs a brand new arcadia and the markings on that one are super red, super sharp, and you can clearly read intake at 30cm away.

Thanks!!!