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Posted

OK, so the consensus is that if i can find her at a decent price, it's not bad, for a 171? i assume it has all the usual 171 transformation headaches? The extra parts don't make it worse?

Posted

The RVF-171 is pictured with the armor parts during the Macross X Tamashii Nations Superdimensional Chogokin Exhibit:

IMG_3599-1024x768.jpg

IMG_3631-1024x768.jpg

But I'm assuming that these came from the armor parts for the VF-171 plus and Alto EX versions. Does the RVF-171's wings already have the hard points for the missiles of the armor parts?

Posted

The RVF-171 comes with the slick wings by default, but the hard-point wings are included in Luca's Nightmare plus box to swap on the spot. If (probably when) Bandai releases the Tamashii web exclusive super pack set they will, I assume, skip the wings, and perhaps include additional ordnance -- maybe a set of anti-Vajra missiles -- to justify the same price point of the previous 171 SP sets.

Posted

I'd forgotten about those other missiles entirely (though they've been available on Shapeways for quite a while). Would be interesting to see if Bandai considers them worth the effort. I don't recall for sure if those missiles were carried by 171EXs though.

Posted

The RVF-171 comes with the slick wings by default, but the hard-point wings are included in Luca's Nightmare plus box to swap on the spot. If (probably when) Bandai releases the Tamashii web exclusive super pack set they will, I assume, skip the wings, and perhaps include additional ordnance -- maybe a set of anti-Vajra missiles -- to justify the same price point of the previous 171 SP sets.

I bet it will omit the wings but include 3 ghosts that are a slightly different color, but otherwise identical to the ones included with the RVF-25 super parts, so they can charge even more.

Posted

I was watching the tranformation vid. whats that extra part in battroid that has to be placed in between the long fin and backpack? is it needed?

Posted

You can get a super cheap rotary tool (specially if you use a coupon) with several bits, including cut-off wheels if I'm not mistaken, at Harbor Freight ... The least expensive option is single speed and rather weak on torque but should do the trick.

Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried this out and unfortunately it did not go as I'd planned. I had no experience with a grinder and not only did most of the surface get smoothed out but I ground a bit into the diecast as well...

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried this out and unfortunately it did not go as I'd planned. I had no experience with a grinder and not only did most of the surface get smoothed out but I ground a bit into the diecast as well...

Sorry to read that. Did you use a cutoff disk (~1/32" thick x 3/4" diameter) or a grind wheel (much thicker and of varying diameters)? If the former, did you hold the tool so that the disk would plunge perpendicular to the screw remnant's shaft in order cut a slot into it to receive a flat head small screw driver? If the latter... wrong tool. I do hope that the bit of die-cast that got ground into is a hidden surface that won't become an issue once the whole assembly, after the offending screw is removed, gets put back together.

A last ditch solution, if all else fails, is to drill into the broken screw... basically saying "the hell with it" and recreating the hole in the boss through the broken screw. The problem with this course of action is that the screw is likely harder/stronger than the die-cast, which makes drilling it difficult without the use of a very stable vise to hold the piece steady and a drill press to plunge down the center of the boss without going astray and causing irreversible damage. You'd need to steady the piece, keeping it from moving, with the screw boss concentric with the drilling vector; grind flat the surface to be drilled; use a center-punch to mark the spot of initial drill contact; carefully drill into the screw with a pilot drill (1/3 smaller diameter than final bore) in small (1/16" at a time then backing off an blowing away the chips) increments; repeat with a bit 2/3 the final bore diameter with the same in--out--blow--repeat technique; finish with the final drill diameter (based on the appropriate diameter for the screw to be used. Ex: 1.8mm drill for a 2.0mm screw).

Good luck.

Edited by mechaninac
Posted

Okay, it took me a bit of time so hopefully somebody will still come back here to check and give me some ideas. The head of one of the screws sheared off in the hip joint so it won't completely hold together, the bigger issue is that I can't dig the bit of left over screw from out of the hole. On the plus side this part of the hip/intake is actually all diecast so there's a bit more resilience than if it were stuck in plastic. I took two pics, the first from the side with the bit of nub sticking out, it's only millimeters really, not enough to grip it with anything I have handy. The second is from the top just for a different vantage point. Does anybody have an tips/ideas how to dig this bit of screw out? Does anybody know the size of screws for a replacement too? Thanks.

15398912394_9843e11a8f_c.jpg

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I had the same issue with my brand new alto 171. Screw was snapped. Posting hear for future reference.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=40095&page=77

Posted (edited)

Soooooo, does anybody know the size of the screws that go in the hips of the 171? I still have to fish out the end of the sheared-off old one and put a new screw in.

I was able to back mine out with a pliers. I measured the screws and am guessing they are metric 2mm x4mm machine screws. I ordered 100. Let me know what you end up doing with yours.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

I was able to back mine out with a pliers. I measured the screws and am guessing they are metric 2mm x4mm machine screws. I ordered 100. Let me know what you end up doing with yours.

I assume enough of the screw was sticking out that you could get a grip? I already tried shaving a trough into mine and fraked it up further. Not really sure what to try next. It's nice to know what the screw size might be but right now it's looking like I'm never getting this screw out.

Posted

Perhaps you could look up a local clock smith, jeweler, or machine shop. I have removed larger automotive bolts with extractors before, but nothing this small.

Posted (edited)

I assume enough of the screw was sticking out that you could get a grip? I already tried shaving a trough into mine and fraked it up further. Not really sure what to try next. It's nice to know what the screw size might be but right now it's looking like I'm never getting this screw out.

Mommar: I have a damaged, Luca RVF-171EX that I would be happy to break down to help solve your problem. Send me a PM and let me know which piece/pieces that you need to fix yours and I'll be happy to arrange something for you. If that's the piece that I think it is, then mine is complete with all screws and you will be able to use it as a 1:1 replacement.

Edit: Here's the photo (sorry about the smartphone quality)

post-5492-0-83422500-1421517805_thumb.png

Edited by technoblue
Posted (edited)

Nice offer, techno.I hope you guys work something out. My screws should hopefully arrive today.

Edit: Just tried the screws. The thread is right, the length s right, but the head isn't the right shape. It is a little too wide, and doesn't sit flush. I have already found a different vendor. I'll update when the replacement replacements arrive.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Posted

Mommar: I have a damaged, Luca RVF-171EX that I would be happy to break down to help solve your problem. Send me a PM and let me know which piece/pieces that you need to fix yours and I'll be happy to arrange something for you. If that's the piece that I think it is, then mine is complete with all screws and you will be able to use it as a 1:1 replacement.

Edit: Here's the photo (sorry about the smartphone quality)

attachicon.gif171_breakdown.png

That is the same side that was snapped on mine. Go figure.

Posted (edited)

Nice offer, techno.I hope you guys work something out. My screws should hopefully arrive today.

Edit: Just tried the screws. The thread is right, the length s right, but the head isn't the right shape. It is a little too wide, and doesn't sit flush. I have already found a different vendor. I'll update when the replacement replacements arrive.

The replacement screws are a great idea too. I thought I would offer my parts up since the rest of the leg is a total loss. I am writing off the cause of my failure as a total rookie mistake. Here's what I think happened:

When going from Battroid back to Fighter mode I got the leg transformation wrong while attempting to lock the legs with the base again. When fully extended, the legs do not twist. After snapping the leg, I opened it up to check the mechanism and verified that it only twists when pushed in all the way. And at that, only in one direction (opposite for both sides). If you force a side with enough torque like I did, the plastic inside is pliable enough that the inner mechanism will "jump the rails" and mess everything up.

I usually watch a transformation video before attempting something like this myself, especially for a new/complicated study like the 171 but I skipped it this time and ended up paying for that lesson.

Edited by technoblue
Posted (edited)

Yeeeeahhhh.. Bandai's engineers make me want to cry. The interlocks make it almost impossible to get the legs twisted back to fighter mode. Moreso, the legs will not untwist unless they are also UN-BENT at the knee.

The only way to do it properly is to bend the legs down at the thigh, straighten the knee completely, and THEN you can collapse the joint and un-twist the legs. There's enough slippage in the mechanism to twist them coming out of fighter with a slight bend in the knee, but they won't go back unless the knee is entirely straight.

Whether that process is mentioned in the instructions in Japanese, I can't say, but the entire interlocking design is just a terrible idea to begin with.

Edited by Chronocidal
Posted

Mommar: I have a damaged, Luca RVF-171EX that I would be happy to break down to help solve your problem. Send me a PM and let me know which piece/pieces that you need to fix yours and I'll be happy to arrange something for you. If that's the piece that I think it is, then mine is complete with all screws and you will be able to use it as a 1:1 replacement.

Edit: Here's the photo (sorry about the smartphone quality)

attachicon.gif171_breakdown.png

That's a very kind gesture after such a terrible situation on your part. I accept but you will be compensated.

Posted

That's a very kind gesture after such a terrible situation on your part. I accept but you will be compensated.

You're welcome, Mommar. Thank you for your kind words. PM reply sent.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Congrats Spanner. You want 'mint' with that one too? ;)

Hey thanks mate! yeah really looking forward to getting it! :D

haha! well im not the biggest fan of mint but I certainly like it in my collectibles! :p:lol:

Posted

Hey thanks mate! yeah really looking forward to getting it! :D

haha! well im not the biggest fan of mint but I certainly like it in my collectibles! :p:lol:

Yeah. Mint. Along with that Ube colored something-something too. Hahaha! :lol:

Posted (edited)

She arrived today! super fast postage from Jungle! :)

Is a beautiful thing indeed! Really loving the colors! :wub: Looks to be completely intact which is good and im not going to attempt a transformation anyways.. ^_^

Not liking the fact you can't have the gun pod attached when in fighter mode unless there is a way and im unaware of or simply not seeing how to..?

Also to make it a little more unique it would've been nice if the markings said "RVF-171" instead of just "VF-171".. seeing it says it on the box.. <_<

A little design detail I think would have worked better on the RVF-171 is rather than having one large sensor fin directly underneath, would have been to have two smaller fins - one on each leg which folded away up the side of the legs for gerwalk & battroid.

At least it wouldn't need removing for transformation (which is what I can tell is a required process from the pictures) and be able to stow the gun in its intended spot.

All in all im still loving it and glad I finally made the move to get one! No regrets! :D

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I will say the one thing I do utterly despise is the N.U.N.S markings.. this was NOT cleverly thought out at all and to be perfectly honest looks downright silly. The amount of stupid comments from people towards this I have had to listen to began to drive me nuts..

Errr no this is not a squadron piloted by nuns you idiot.. :angry: The Japanese just don't have a clue when it comes to certain things.. :wacko::rolleyes:

In fact im tempted to cover over these marking with some vinyl on both the RVF & CF! :rolleyes:

Edited by spanner76
Posted

Luca and Alto both were assigned to the NUNS when the quarter took off on it's "clandestine" mission. The CF-171's were also NUNS units. Maybe I am misunderstanding your comment.

Posted

I think he's just ranting about the acronym itself. We know N.U.N.S. stands for New U.N. Spacy, but to the uninformed the first thing they read is "nuns" and it then becomes a subject of ridicule.

Posted

Luca and Alto both were assigned to the NUNS when the quarter took off on it's "clandestine" mission. The CF-171's were also NUNS units. Maybe I am misunderstanding your comment.

yeah I know they were and im not questioning that, my argument is I just don't care for the NUNS logo as I think it looks silly..

Posted

I think he's just ranting about the acronym itself. We know N.U.N.S. stands for New U.N. Spacy, but to the uninformed the first thing they read is "nuns" and it then becomes a subject of ridicule.

exactly this!

Posted (edited)

Ahh, I get it :lol:

Spanner, just tell them to shut the hell up and show them the back of your hand :D

Edited by Loop

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