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Posted

Just got mine on Saturday. Careful with the antenna on the vertical stabilizer fin. Dropped mine while transforming and the tip broke off. Fixed it with some plastic welder. Wish bandai used rubber instead for the tips like they use for the head lasers.

Posted

I'm glad they didn't because I don't like how they are almost never straight, but it would have been nice if they included swappable vinyl parts like they did with the vinyl and plastic head lasers.

Posted (edited)

Does anybody know what the size of the screws are that hold the socket in the hips together? The masochist in me attempted to put one of these in Battroid and the left leg was super tight. Then it was super loose. I took the hip apart and the top screw of the hip socket was broken.

Shoot, I can't even get the bottom half of the broken screw out.

Damn, looks like the top screw is smaller than the bottom too... even if I could get the sheared bottom half out of the hole.

Edited by Mommar
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm tempted to pick it up but am hesitant about the QC. The ex is enough for me and am wondering if the price will come down lower later like the Rvf-25

Posted

I'm tempted to pick it up but am hesitant about the QC. The ex is enough for me and am wondering if the price will come down lower later like the Rvf-25

Re: price, if this was a general release I'd think the price would indeed drop like the RVF-25 but because this is a web exclusive I see it holding around the 15,000 JPY mark. No significant price increase.

-b.

Posted

Soooooo, does anybody know the size of the screws that go in the hips of the 171? I still have to fish out the end of the sheared-off old one and put a new screw in.

Posted

Soooooo, does anybody know the size of the screws that go in the hips of the 171? I still have to fish out the end of the sheared-off old one and put a new screw in.

Sorry, mine is still in it's box, inside the box N-Y shipped it in, sitting in my closet for storage. :(

-b.

Posted

Sorry, mine is still in it's box, inside the box N-Y shipped it in, sitting in my closet for storage. :(

-b.

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the end of the little screw out without damaging the Valk. Nothing I've tried so far has worked. And any other methods I do know run the risk of breaking the plastic. I've never tried drilling into the center of a screw so tiny either.

Posted

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the end of the little screw out without damaging the Valk. Nothing I've tried so far has worked. And any other methods I do know run the risk of breaking the plastic. I've never tried drilling into the center of a screw so tiny either.

if you can post pics of it, someone might be able to come up with a good idea to help... i was thinking of a tiny drop of superglue on the end of an 18 or 20 gauge wire, let it dry on the exposed end of the sheared screw a bit then try to twist it out (bending the free end of the wire might make it easier)... bit risky though since capillary forces + adhesion may suck the super glue into the space between the screw and the plastic...

Posted

I have so many toys laying around that I never played wit it yet lol. All I did was remove it from the brown sipper to look at the box...

Posted

Do we have any emerging trends yet in these with quality control or breakage? I've been waiting to see before I buy one.

It's been surprisingly quiet regarding this release. I think that (1) not a lot of people bought it and (2) even more people may have waited to hear about the release before they do opt to purchase.

I have so many toys laying around that I never played wit it yet lol. All I did was remove it from the brown sipper to look at the box...

At least you did that much. :lol:

-b.

Posted (edited)

I transformed mine a few times already. No problem.

But any signs of disintegrating parts will take time. Just be careful with the usual stuff like the knees and also watch out for the spikes of the large fin. Luckily the latter and the radar dome are removable.

Edited by close313
Posted (edited)

You guys are way too paranoid. Got three and all three are just fine with no sign of stress marks or anything like the CF's. Feels just as durable as the VF-171EX alto which was pretty much perfect.

I like how the RVF-171 looks with armor parts on :D

post-25-0-73328300-1417826733_thumb.jpg

Edited by Duymon
Posted

You guys are way too paranoid. Got three and all three are just fine with no sign of stress marks or anything like the CF's. Feels just as durable as the VF-171EX alto which was pretty much perfect.

I like how the RVF-171 looks with armor parts on :D

In my case, not paranoia, more like an apathetic disinterest. :p

-b.

Posted

Honestly the shoulder's on both of mine are fine. i've had my own unique issue I've yet to post a picture of for suggestions how to fix it. But it's not any kind of breakage due to plastic, it's a defect in one of the screws used instead.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Okay, it took me a bit of time so hopefully somebody will still come back here to check and give me some ideas. The head of one of the screws sheared off in the hip joint so it won't completely hold together, the bigger issue is that I can't dig the bit of left over screw from out of the hole. On the plus side this part of the hip/intake is actually all diecast so there's a bit more resilience than if it were stuck in plastic. I took two pics, the first from the side with the bit of nub sticking out, it's only millimeters really, not enough to grip it with anything I have handy. The second is from the top just for a different vantage point. Does anybody have an tips/ideas how to dig this bit of screw out? Does anybody know the size of screws for a replacement too? Thanks.

15398912394_9843e11a8f_c.jpg

15835137579_7c46a0c936_c.jpg

Posted

Too bad you can't use a dremel or something to cut a line across the sheared screw and use that as a flat head point.

Posted

With a good set of pliers you should be able to turn the screw out. I have a set of 2x mechanical advantage pliers that I have used for similar scenarios.

Posted

Too bad you can't use a dremel or something to cut a line across the sheared screw and use that as a flat head point.

If I had a dremel that might actually work... I think enough of the screw is poking out to do it.

With a good set of pliers you should be able to turn the screw out. I have a set of 2x mechanical advantage pliers that I have used for similar scenarios.

Hmm, none of my various pairs of pliers have been able to grip it. It really is only a few millimeters poking out.

Posted

Try filing/scoring a notch for a screwdriver. You can use a blunt exacto or razer blade. Just need enough to score a line a flathead can slot into.

Posted (edited)

I wonder if there is a screw removal kit (Example)made for screw shafts smaller than 1/8" (3.175mm). The use of such an extractor would be the perfect solution to this problem. However, if the screw remnant is not buried into the boss, and is actually protruding above the surface, and free of adjacent obstructions, then cutting a slot for a flat-head screwdriver with a jeweler's saw or file, or rotary tool cut-off disk, should work perfectly.

Edited by mechaninac
Posted

Try filing/scoring a notch for a screwdriver. You can use a blunt exacto or razer blade. Just need enough to score a line a flathead can slot into.

I'll try this. Thanks for the idea.

Posted

Damn, well it was a good idea but notching it with an x-acto blade or razer hasn't made a dent. I'll have to see if I can track down some sort of rotary device.

Posted

You can get a super cheap rotary tool (specially if you use a coupon) with several bits, including cut-off wheels if I'm not mistaken, at Harbor Freight ... The least expensive option is single speed and rather weak on torque but should do the trick.

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