Orguss is B A C K

[no3Ljm]

Moderoid Orguss Orgroid. Proportion looks nice.

[no3Ljm]

Moderoid Orugss at the Wonder Hobby Gallery 2023 Spring.

 

Hi-Metal R Orguss.

Edited May 28, 2023 by no3Ljm

[Big s]

That Orguss kit looks better and better every time I see a new picture. Now I gotta see more pictures of their garland

[no3Ljm]

1 hour ago, Big s said:

That Orguss kit looks better and better every time I see a new picture. Now I gotta see more pictures of their garland

Same here. Though it seems to me that the 2nd picture is the Hi-Metal R figure since the wing joint doesn't look like the Moderoid one. I labeled it correctly this time.

Yeah, looking forward to the Garland too. I don't have any Garland but if this one somehow scaled close to Sentinel's 1/12, I might bite.  

[Big s]

1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Same here. Though it seems to me that the 2nd picture is the Hi-Metal R figure since the wing joint doesn't look like the Moderoid one. I labeled it correctly this time.

Yeah, looking forward to the Garland too. I don't have any Garland but if this one somehow scaled close to Sentinel's 1/12, I might bite.  

I kinda doubt 1/12. Maybe more like 1/20 or 1/35. I haven’t seen enough pictures of it to judge and I don’t remember a scale on it

[Mommar]

How are the Moderoid model kits anyway?

[Big s]

3 hours ago, Mommar said:

How are the Moderoid model kits anyway?

I like them. I think the question was asked a page or two back, but they’re pretty good overall. They are a bit different than the Bandai stuff and depending on the kit they sometimes sacrifice articulation for looks. There are more seams than your average hg Bandai kit, so there may be a little more work. I think on the other page I compared them to earlier hguc kits as far as feel. But for me it’s all about the variety of designs that Bandai and many other companies ignore. I’ve been buying there stuff since the first Obsolete kit that came packed with a magazine and whenever I see a kit of franchise that I love, I feel like there’s a good chance they’ll finish a line.

The best thing I can say is to find one that interests you and give it a try. The Obsolete ones are fun and tiny. The E.D.209 is big and fun or the Patlabor ones are all pretty great. The Escaflowne kits look amazing, but the articulation gets blocked a little by their own design but look amazing on a shelf.

 

Edited May 29, 2023 by Big s
Sorry, I think my original comparison was with the actual moderoid section

[no3Ljm]

5 hours ago, Mommar said:

How are the Moderoid model kits anyway?

Hey @Mommar. Same here I don't own any Moderoid kits yet so basically this and the Galvion would be my first ones. So looking forward to it.  

Aside from what @Big s posts on the main Moderoid thread, I found these english Ingram and Xabungle review videos which I am watching right now since this is new for me. Hope these helps.  

 

 

Combining GodMars looks good too.

 

Edited May 30, 2023 by no3Ljm

[Mommar]

13 hours ago, Big s said:

I like them. I think the question was asked a page or two back, but they’re pretty good overall. They are a bit different than the Bandai stuff and depending on the kit they sometimes sacrifice articulation for looks. There are more seams than your average hg Bandai kit, so there may be a little more work. I think on the other page I compared them to earlier hguc kits as far as feel. But for me it’s all about the variety of designs that Bandai and many other companies ignore. I’ve been buying there stuff since the first Obsolete kit that came packed with a magazine and whenever I see a kit of franchise that I love, I feel like there’s a good chance they’ll finish a line.

The best thing I can say is to find one that interests you and give it a try. The Obsolete ones are fun and tiny. The E.D.209 is big and fun or the Patlabor ones are all pretty great. The Escaflowne kits look amazing, but the articulation gets blocked a little by their own design but look amazing on a shelf.

 

If I had just enough time to construct a kit would it be "good enough" like the HGUC's or will it require extra work to really be decent?  I was never Mr. Modeler like other here and I have even less time now.

[Big s]

1 minute ago, Mommar said:

If I had just enough time to construct a kit would it be "good enough" like the HGUC's or will it require extra work to really be decent?  I was never Mr. Modeler like other here and I have even less time now.

It depends on the kit. Most are similar to hg kits as far as construction. Some seam lines and such a little bit of cement helps on parts that are loose, but nothing crazy. 

[fifbeat]

I'm not a model kit builder, but I'm thinking about getting this, especially after reading this: 

"The various parts of the mecha have been separated into different colored runners, pre-painted parts and stickers, making it easy to recreate the mecha with a simple assembly."

With that said, this thing is almost a toy! Thoughts? 

Pre-order at BBTS: https://www.bigbadtoystore.com/Product/VariationDetails/241358?o=4

Edited June 9, 2023 by fifbeat

[Big s]

2 hours ago, fifbeat said:

I'm not a model kit builder, but I'm thinking about getting this, especially after reading this: 

"The various parts of the mecha have been separated into different colored runners, pre-painted parts and stickers, making it easy to recreate the mecha with a simple assembly."

With that said, this thing is almost a toy! Thoughts? 

Pre-order at BBTS: https://www.bigbadtoystore.com/Product/VariationDetails/241358?o=4

Have you had any experience with model kits?

if you’re not a kit builder, these aren’t complicated anyway. You can get away with using things you already have like if you don’t have nippers, use a nail clipper and as a bonus some cheap nail clippers already have a file to rub down the nubs left behind if you don’t have sand paper.  I do recommend some simple items like nippers or a sanding sponge and maybe a black gundam panel line marker or even a basic gundam marker set. Maybe a thin styrene glue like tamiya extra thin. Those are pretty much all you would really need if you just want to snap it out and display it.

I don’t really know if there’s gonna be any need for color correcting of any parts, but they usually keep that to a minimum. I really won’t know until the kit comes out. But I wouldn’t let anything scare you off. 
 

Just keep in mind that even though the age ranges are for adults on the box, they make these things for kids in mind. There of course will be room for a more experienced builder to do things like remove seam lines and paint or customize, but that’s always optional as to how far you want to take things.

[fifbeat]

7 hours ago, Big s said:

Have you had any experience with model kits?

if you’re not a kit builder, these aren’t complicated anyway. You can get away with using things you already have like if you don’t have nippers, use a nail clipper and as a bonus some cheap nail clippers already have a file to rub down the nubs left behind if you don’t have sand paper.  I do recommend some simple items like nippers or a sanding sponge and maybe a black gundam panel line marker or even a basic gundam marker set. Maybe a thin styrene glue like tamiya extra thin. Those are pretty much all you would really need if you just want to snap it out and display it.

I don’t really know if there’s gonna be any need for color correcting of any parts, but they usually keep that to a minimum. I really won’t know until the kit comes out. But I wouldn’t let anything scare you off. 
 

Just keep in mind that even though the age ranges are for adults on the box, they make these things for kids in mind. There of course will be room for a more experienced builder to do things like remove seam lines and paint or customize, but that’s always optional as to how far you want to take things.

Thanks for the tips. Do you know if there's a kit that comes with all this stuff you mention? Any help is useful. Even if you have to send me separate links. 

My experience with kits is very minimal. When I was a kid, I used to go for the snap-together ones (no glue required). And I'd never paint them. Always struggled with the decals lol But in a way, I always enjoyed the process when they came out decent. 

I just love the way this particular one looks. Much better than the HMR that's coming out soon (and I'll be getting that soon). Always loved the MODEROID mech design.

 

 

[Big s]

1 hour ago, fifbeat said:

Thanks for the tips. Do you know if there's a kit that comes with all this stuff you mention? Any help is useful. Even if you have to send me separate links. 

My experience with kits is very minimal. When I was a kid, I used to go for the snap-together ones (no glue required). And I'd never paint them. Always struggled with the decals lol But in a way, I always enjoyed the process when they came out decent. 

I just love the way this particular one looks. Much better than the HMR that's coming out soon (and I'll be getting that soon). Always loved the MODEROID mech design.

 

 

I know amazon had a few cheap starter sets that had things like nippers and sanding sticks, but you’d have to search. The common glue I’d recommend would be tamiya extra thin, since it’s pretty easy to find at most hobby shops and amazon. There’s also starter sets for gundam markers, since as a beginner that may be pretty simple for touch ups. Most items are probably easy to find on amazon or basic hobby sites

you may not need the glue or really much more than something to trim out the parts. I’ve used small nail clippers back in the day. 

Edited June 10, 2023 by Big s

[mechaninac]

13 hours ago, fifbeat said:

Thanks for the tips. Do you know if there's a kit that comes with all this stuff you mention? Any help is useful. Even if you have to send me separate links. 

My experience with kits is very minimal. When I was a kid, I used to go for the snap-together ones (no glue required). And I'd never paint them. Always struggled with the decals lol But in a way, I always enjoyed the process when they came out decent. 

I just love the way this particular one looks. Much better than the HMR that's coming out soon (and I'll be getting that soon). Always loved the MODEROID mech design.

 

 

Here are a few unpainted snap-fit kit building tips for beginners:

1. Always use sprue cutters or nail clippers to separate the parts from the sprues (the parts tree lattice).  One off ebay
2. Only remove the parts you will be working on and assembling; this way, your chances of losing tiny pieces to the carpet monster are minimized.
3. Do not cut flush to the part's surface; you'll get much better results if you leave a little knub on the part for subsequent trimming.  You can cut flush if the part, or area of the part with the gate, will be hidden; study the assembly diagram... you'll get a feel for what needs extra attention and what can be snipped off the sprue without concern as you get more confident in the process.
4. Use a No. 11 x-Acto blade to carefully trim the knubs down until they are flush to the part's surface.  Use your fingernail to feel for high spots... your eyes can deceive you if you're solely dealing with raw plastic, more so some colors than others.
5. Rub the now flush spot where the knub used to be with your thumbnail to polish off/remove most discoloration from the above process.  If unsatisfactory, or better results are desired, use sanding sticks (I like to go with 280 grit flowed by 320 grit, some times down to 6000 or a clear plastic buffing stick) to get the spots to mostly disappear (note that, depending on the color, especially true with reds, sometimes a slightly darker spot will be left; this is due to how the color pigments in the plastic flow and accumulate disproportionately through the part-sprue gate).
6. Sanding will result in hazing of the plastic due to the change in texture from the virgin surfaces' glossy/satiny finish; use an old shirt to buff the sanded surfaces until they match, as closely as you can get it, the overall sheen of the overall part.
7. Have fun.

[Big s]

3 hours ago, mechaninac said:

Here are a few unpainted snap-fit kit building tips for beginners:

1. Always use sprue cutters or nail clippers to separate the parts from the sprues (the parts tree lattice).  One off ebay
2. Only remove the parts you will be working on and assembling; this way, your chances of losing tiny pieces to the carpet monster are minimized.
3. Do not cut flush to the part's surface; you'll get much better results if you leave a little knub on the part for subsequent trimming.  You can cut flush if the part, or area of the part with the gate, will be hidden; study the assembly diagram... you'll get a feel for what needs extra attention and what can be snipped off the sprue without concern as you get more confident in the process.
4. Use a No. 11 x-Acto blade to carefully trim the knubs down until they are flush to the part's surface.  Use your fingernail to feel for high spots... your eyes can deceive you if you're solely dealing with raw plastic, more so some colors than others.
5. Rub the now flush spot where the knub used to be with your thumbnail to polish off/remove most discoloration from the above process.  If unsatisfactory, or better results are desired, use sanding sticks (I like to go with 280 grit flowed by 320 grit, some times down to 6000 or a clear plastic buffing stick) to get the spots to mostly disappear (note that, depending on the color, especially true with reds, sometimes a slightly darker spot will be left; this is due to how the color pigments in the plastic flow and accumulate disproportionately through the part-sprue gate).
6. Sanding will result in hazing of the plastic due to the change in texture from the virgin surfaces' glossy/satiny finish; use an old shirt to buff the sanded surfaces until they match, as closely as you can get it, the overall sheen of the overall part.
7. Have fun.

I honestly never use step 4. Unless there’s something I really need to cut away or quickly scribe, I stay away from blades. 
I usually just use the clippers and get a starter cut and then trim as close to possible after the part is away from the srprue. Then lightly sand or file the leftover away.
Most modern kits are a bit easier to clean up than older kits and seem to have a thinner bit of plastic connecting the plastic to the sprue and feel a little easier to deal with.

my favorite file I have is actually a cheap glass file that’s meant for nails. It makes quick work of nubs and stuff and doesn’t scratch like metal ones. 
 

as far as step 5and 6 some of the cheap sanding sponges have high grit and polishing sections on the same sponge and surprisingly those get it right back to a plastic look with little fuss. I do use the finger nail press on miscolored areas where the nubs may have been. A little pressure and often it’s hard or impossible to tell it was even there to begin with. That’s one of those tips that people usually don’t mention

i really think step 7 here is the most important . That’s the biggest reason to get into the hobby. You don’t have to be a pro and you don’t need a high budget just have fun and once everything is done you’ll end up with something that will give you a sense of pride over the completed project. 

[fifbeat]

mechaninac and Big s, thanks so much for the detailed info and tips! 😃 

[lechuck]

In case anyone missed the initial pre-order for HMR Orguss and still on the hunt, it is available through Amazon JP right now.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/dp/B0BX2L7RQC/?coliid=I20ZY4EZGT2TR4&colid=3A7YN7BXVC37C&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[treatment]

dat box!

seen posted in TD:  https://bbs.toysdaily.com/forum.php?mod=redirect&goto=findpost&ptid=469339&pid=8197453

 

 

takatoku homage ftw!

 

 

[jenius]

Toynami rip off! Lol

[MKT]

I didn’t think I’ll ever be getting seconds of anything just for display-in-box, but this really makes a strong case for it.

[treatment]

close-up promo pics from hjweb:

https://hjweb.jp/article/1045712/

samples:

Edited June 29, 2023 by treatment

[Bolt]

Love Tenjin's art!

[sh9000]

10 hours ago, Bolt said:

Love Tenjin's art!

Agreed.  I wonder if there will at least be an Ishkick release.

[electric indigo]

Some incoming garage kits

 

[MKT]

HMR releasing in just a few days..

 

 

[treatment]

Yeah.

Kinda sux the yen-dollar exchange-rate has been steadily falling down...

 

 

[Mommar]

AE just asked for shipping payment.

[sh9000]

HMR Orguss dropped into my private warehouse at HLJ.

[treatment]

pictorial at hacchaka:

https://hacchaka.net/archives/52097390.html

samples:

 

 

 

current exchange-rate as of this posting:  138.06y to US$1...

 

[Swann]

You can still find the Orguss sealed mini cards. With the box. For 2500 yen.

[no3Ljm]

On 7/12/2023 at 1:15 AM, MKT said:

Love what I'm seeing.  

 

[Tking22]

I don't even know what Orguss is but that's a cool looking mech, I may grab one. Is this a hero mech or cannon fodder? 

[Dynaman]

Can we change the title to Orguss WAS back?  That will keep me from getting too excited every time this comes back from the dead.

[mechaninac]

4 hours ago, Tking22 said:

I don't even know what Orguss is but that's a cool looking mech, I may grab one. Is this a hero mech or cannon fodder? 

Hero/Titular mech; however, other variations pop up later in the series; notably, the Olson Special and Cannon Fodder.