joscasle Posted December 20, 2013 Posted December 20, 2013 (edited) VF-4 in 1/48. Go big. That will be AMAZING!!!!!!, a VF-11B in 1/48 will be great too Edited December 20, 2013 by joscasle Quote
505thAirborne Posted December 23, 2013 Posted December 23, 2013 Glad the box is huge, I'm going to Frame the box art! Quote
joscasle Posted December 23, 2013 Posted December 23, 2013 (edited) Same size of the regular 1/48 vf-1 por f-14 Edited December 23, 2013 by joscasle Quote
Heavy Melder Posted December 24, 2013 Posted December 24, 2013 I'm hoping a two-holer/trainer and the Elint Seeker make it to this scale as well. And a VF-4 and VF-11 too. Oh and a YF-21. Quote
Fatalist Posted December 24, 2013 Posted December 24, 2013 My god!! WANT!!! This looks like TONS of fun to build and detail!! Quote
Jefuemon Posted December 25, 2013 Posted December 25, 2013 That box art is just amazing Especially in duplicate. Quote
danbickell Posted December 26, 2013 Posted December 26, 2013 The box is actually quite a bit bigger than the earlier Hasegawa 1/48 releases. About half again as long, a couple inches wider, but the same depth. As for the contents, it has parts for either VF-1S Strike or VF-1A Super, and nothing else. It isn't just the previous releases with additional parts. The thigh parts are only for the FAST pack configuration, and backpack is folded version only. Those parts are all on a new sprue, and the standard fighter versions are absent. The FAST pack sprues are molded in dark gray plastic, and there are is a separate clear orange sprue for the Strike pack and arm clear parts. The missiles for the Super and arm FAST packs are molded in white, along with the other new parts. Cockpit and pilot parts are the DYRL version from the VF-1S/A release. Both canopy versions are still included. Decal sheet is quite a bit bigger than the previous releases, as expected. Very happy with the details on the FAST packs. I really like how they handled the missile launchers on the Super packs. They are done as deeply recessed angled ramps with no doors to close them off, and the missiles visible to the rear. There are nice little separate details, like the plumbing for the verniers at the rear of the Super/Strike packs, visible in the rear cavity where the big thrusters are. The only thing missing is missiles. Missiles and mslz22's 1/48 launch arm kit would complete this. Quote
GMK Posted December 26, 2013 Posted December 26, 2013 Nice, succinct review Dan. Can't wait to receive mine! Quote
joscasle Posted December 26, 2013 Posted December 26, 2013 Nice review. The biger box answer the high shipping cost Quote
Berttt Posted December 26, 2013 Posted December 26, 2013 "Both canopy versions are still included". Is anyone able to fill me in on what that means? I don't own the non FP releases. Quote
Chas Posted December 26, 2013 Posted December 26, 2013 The T.V. version had a straight sided canopy while the DYRL version had a bubble sided canopy. Quote
joscasle Posted December 26, 2013 Posted December 26, 2013 Just recieve mine. Box very big. I want that box art as a wallpaper asap Quote
Delta227 Posted December 28, 2013 Posted December 28, 2013 Woke up to the door bell and a box on my step.. a huge box.. one VF-1S/A strike 1:48 and photo etching for my YF-19 1:48. another Great day indeed.. Quote
GMK Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Whoa - mine turned up today. Only grabbed the one, but it looks lovely! Not sure whether to build it as a Super or modify to build a Gerwalk. Either way it'll be a CF. Quote
Delta227 Posted January 2, 2014 Posted January 2, 2014 Just curious... would the photo etched set for the vf-1 be compatible with the new strike kit? I would think so but want to make sure before I pull the trigger...... Quote
Wasabi-san Posted January 3, 2014 Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) . Edited January 17, 2014 by Wasabi-san Quote
vincemoto7 Posted January 8, 2014 Posted January 8, 2014 Just curious... would the photo etched set for the vf-1 be compatible with the new strike kit? I would think so but want to make sure before I pull the trigger...... Yes, they are compatible. I received the 4 I ordered a few weeks ago and I've been studying the assembly guide every night. Does anyone have an English translation for the assembly guide? I'm noticing a few assembly details to look out for that obviously were not on the smaller models. Quote
Delta227 Posted January 9, 2014 Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) Yes, they are compatible. I received the 4 I ordered a few weeks ago and I've been studying the assembly guide every night. Does anyone have an English translation for the assembly guide? I'm noticing a few assembly details to look out for that obviously were not on the smaller models. Thanks waiting on my Pe set now.. I already pulled the trigger on this and happy to hear it wasn't a wate of time ordering the set .. keep us informed of your findings on the assembly of the PE set Delta227 Edited January 9, 2014 by Delta227 Quote
vincemoto7 Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 Thanks waiting on my Pe set now.. I already pulled the trigger on this and happy to hear it wasn't a wate of time ordering the set .. keep us informed of your findings on the assembly of the PE set Delta227 No worries, hope you're as happy as I was when I received my order. I've never worked with PE parts before, I understand there's more prep when it comes to painting them. I did see that the HUD is pretty small (at least for my fat fingers) and requires a few tiny parts from the same parts tree that the canopy is on. If anyone has any advice on working with photo etched parts, I'd love to hear it. Quote
PetarB Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Get an expensive pair of fingernail trimmers - the scissors kind - to help remove the parts. I also use a #11 Exacto blade depending on the thickness. A fine pair of pliers can help with the bending - they must register perfectly, not some cheapo $2 job. Finally, some people use a special tool to help with bending but I've never found one of those necessary. I mean something like this: http://www.thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10 The alternative is to use either a great pair of fine pliers, or I also use a metal ruler to help fold instead Quote
vincemoto7 Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Get an expensive pair of fingernail trimmers - the scissors kind - to help remove the parts. I also use a #11 Exacto blade depending on the thickness. A fine pair of pliers can help with the bending - they must register perfectly, not some cheapo $2 job. Finally, some people use a special tool to help with bending but I've never found one of those necessary. I mean something like this: http://www.thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10 The alternative is to use either a great pair of fine pliers, or I also use a metal ruler to help fold instead Thanks for the insight!! I also read your post on the Commanchero... awesome work. Thanks for the insight!! I also read your post on the Commanchero... awesome work. Actually PetarB, I've seen a lot of your models... WOW, absolutely incredible!!! Quote
Delta227 Posted January 13, 2014 Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Vincemoto7 anyone has any advice on working with photo etched parts, I'd love to hear it. Pe can be tricky the first time around but you will get the hang of it quickly.. There are a few other things you can use that are cheap and work well... Everything mention by Petra B I agree with. You also have one more option to bend pe. Try two old fashion type blades.. one to hold down the part slid the other one under the part and fold the part.. Also, if you use a blade to remove parts from a runner .. make sure you cut the parts on glass or some other hard surface so you don't damage parts . And If your like me I loose part a lot lol.. Try and tape over the small part you plan to cut out.. this will prevent the loss of your part.. as for prep .. I prime but I don't think its necessary all the time... Enjoy the build... Sorry to go off topic Edited January 13, 2014 by Delta227 Quote
vincemoto7 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Vincemoto7 anyone has any advice on working with photo etched parts, I'd love to hear it. Pe can be tricky the first time around but you will get the hang of it quickly.. There are a few other things you can use that are cheap and work well... Everything mention by Petra B I agree with. You also have one more option to bend pe. Try two old fashion type blades.. one to hold down the part slid the other one under the part and fold the part.. Also, if you use a blade to remove parts from a runner .. make sure you cut the parts on glass or some other hard surface so you don't damage parts . And If your like me I loose part a lot lol.. Try and tape over the small part you plan to cut out.. this will prevent the loss of your part.. as for prep .. I prime but I don't think its necessary all the time... Enjoy the build... Sorry to go off topic Thanks for all the awesome tips delta, hope your order comes in soon. Quote
MinoRem Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Has anyone started this? I'm stuck on step 22 with the super strike back not fitting because the back joiners are too fat edit: nevermind, found out you had to put them together first then stick the back part. Edited January 20, 2014 by MinoRem Quote
vincemoto7 Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 Has anyone started this? I'm stuck on step 22 with the super strike back not fitting because the back joiners are too fat edit: nevermind, found out you had to put them together first then stick the back part. pictures, pictures!!! Wish I had time to start on mine... I have a newborn. Post some pictures of your progress. Quote
Delta227 Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 Congratulations vincemoto1 on the new one.. I will start mine when I'm done with another project I'm working on.. what I'm thinking about right now is what color I want to use as over all color .. I don't want to use pure white...what do you guys plan to use as a base color? Otherwise I'm waiting on one of those arms to start building my strike. Delta227 Quote
joscasle Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) You can use a even lighter Light Grey!!! or a low viz schema!!! Edited January 21, 2014 by joscasle Quote
vincemoto7 Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 Congratulations vincemoto1 on the new one.. I will start mine when I'm done with another project I'm working on.. what I'm thinking about right now is what color I want to use as over all color .. I don't want to use pure white...what do you guys plan to use as a base color? Otherwise I'm waiting on one of those arms to start building my strike. Delta227 You can use a even lighter Light Grey!!! or a low viz schema!!! Thanks Delta. Where you getting the launch arm from? As far as a base color, I agree with joscasle, low viz grey. Quote
MinoRem Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) ok here is a couple of pics of all the pieces I've done so far. Just doing bits and pieces here and there since I dont have the right color paints to do it all at the same time Edited January 22, 2014 by MinoRem Quote
Delta227 Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 Thanks Delta. Where you getting the launch arm from? As far as a base color, I agree with joscasle, low viz grey. Thanks guys I think I will go with tamiya USAF light grey not to white and barely grey. As for the arm one of the members here is creating one I hope he will offer it to the members... Check here http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=40286#entry1095546 I'm waiting because if I can get one I can build my kit wheels up if not ill have to think of something creative.. or do wheels down and flaps extended maybe.... Delta227 Quote
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