Best Primer for Resin?

[Dax415]

Was gonna be painting up some resin miniatures, Warhammer 40K and a Macross GBP kit. Was wondering what is the best primer to get for these that will not be harsh on the details of the resin kits and miniatures. I have a primer for plastic will that work on the resin? Thanks for the help.

[Noyhauser]

It should be okay... it depends what it is, but I doubt it would damage it. I built a lot of resin aircraft and I use thinned out Mr Surfacer and that works great.... but Gunze also makes a "mr resin primer" too.

[EXO]

Mr. Surfacer rocks... 1000 looks so nice and smooth. But I'm cheap and looking for Mr. Surfacer takes up so much time. They don't sell them around me, so I use automotive primers. Make sure you degrease the resin first though. Usually I just let them sit in Simple Green for a day and then rinse it off with dishwashing liquid.

[Noyhauser]

you know what really rocks that I just found out? It works with Mr thinner... I've been spraying the stuff non-stop for the past few months now because it makes it so much more useful than any other primer I have.

Now if it only came in black...

[Dax415]

Oh....I was told not to use Automotive Primers, especially the sandable types cause it would go on too thick. Is there a particular one to get? Though from the questions I've asked on the other boards Mr. Surfacer seems to be the universal answer. Was just curious, I came across a product called "Montana cans" its designed for artists. Has anyone used that?

[anime52k8]

Maybe I'm just weird/bad at models but I've had more luck overall with Tamiya paints verso anything from Mr.Hobby. BTW, I know Mr.Hobby makes a "Mr. Resin" primer, I've never used it so I've got no idea how good it is.

[David Hingtgen]

The scrubbing you give the parts before, is more important than the primer itself, when it comes to resin. STRIP those parts clean!

[Noyhauser]

Maybe I'm just weird/bad at models but I've had more luck overall with Tamiya paints verso anything from Mr.Hobby. BTW, I know Mr.Hobby makes a "Mr. Resin" primer, I've never used it so I've got no idea how good it is.

Funny, I've been using tamiya paints for about 10 years now and I've recently gone over to Gunze. The quality of finish is much much better and I have less issues with colours. I can also use them for brush paints, something you really can't do well with tamiya.

Mr Surfacer is probably one of the best products they put out, though tamiya's rattle can primer (white and normal) are better than Mr Surfacer from a can.

Edited June 13, 2013 by Noyhauser

[cobywan]

Gunze makes Mr Resin Primer. Smells yummy too.

[Kylwell]

Mr Surfacer or if you can find it Mr Resin Primer.

[Jefuemon]

Mr Surfacer or if you can find it Mr Resin Primer.

Thin those with Mr Leveling Thinner, and you're good to go! I've found that the Leveling Thinner works a tad better than regular Mr Thinner.

Major "Mr. Product" user here.

Edited June 13, 2013 by Jefuemon

[electric indigo]

With middle or dark colors, I use no primer at all on plastic or resin kits. But it's important to clean the parts well, just before the paint application, since grease and dust will collect on them when you're handling and sanding them.

[anime52k8]

Funny, I've been using tamiya paints for about 10 years now and I've recently gone over to Gunze. The quality of finish is much much better and I have less issues with colours. I can also use them for brush paints, something you really can't do well with tamiya.

Mr Surfacer is probably one of the best products they put out, though tamiya's rattle can primer (white and normal) are better than Mr Surfacer from a can.

When I say I prefer Tamiya I specifically mean Tamiya Spray paints. I've never actually used Gunze bottled acrylics/enamels, but I've found their Mr. Surface and Mr. Super Clear to be a little more temperamental compared to the equivalent Tamiya Products.

[GU-11]

Funny, I've been using tamiya paints for about 10 years now and I've recently gone over to Gunze. The quality of finish is much much better and I have less issues with colours. I can also use them for brush paints, something you really can't do well with tamiya.

Yeah, Tamiya paints (acrylics, at least) totally suck as far as hand-painting goes. I don't have much trouble AB'ing them. Although I can;t make a comparison, as I've never used Gunze bottled paints.

When I say I prefer Tamiya I specifically mean Tamiya Spray paints. I've never actually used Gunze bottled acrylics/enamels, but I've found their Mr. Surface and Mr. Super Clear to be a little more temperamental compared to the equivalent Tamiya Products.

The thing with TS spray paints is that if you plan on applying a clear coat, you have to do it within fifteen minutes after applying the final color coat, or at least when it's touch dry. This is to ensure that the color and clear coat dry/offgass at the same rate. If the paint and clear coat dry in different stages, you risk cracking the clear coat.

With Future, most say you should wait about two weeks or more before application.

[EXO]

I'm afraid to try out Mr. Color because everyone that switched to it from Tamiya swears they wouldn't go back. It's more expensive and it's not at the 2 hobby shops by me. And ordering it online seems even more expensive.

[Noyhauser]

Come to the dark side exo!

One thing I've found is that gunze paints last longer than tamiya because they are thicker. You'll need to buy thinner to get them to AB consistency (the 400ml bottles are a deal) but they are well worth it in the long run. I really like the finish they leave; I can often just decal directly onto the paint because their paints (except the flats) come out a really nice satin.

[anime52k8]

The thing with TS spray paints is that if you plan on applying a clear coat, you have to do it within fifteen minutes after applying the final color coat, or at least when it's touch dry. This is to ensure that the color and clear coat dry/offgass at the same rate. If the paint and clear coat dry in different stages, you risk cracking the clear coat.

With Future, most say you should wait about two weeks or more before application.

I've never once had that problem. my process is color, wait a day or two, lay down TS-13, wait a 3~4 days, panel line and decal, then lay down TS-80 the next day.

I'm afraid to try out Mr. Color because everyone that switched to it from Tamiya swears they wouldn't go back. It's more expensive and it's not at the 2 hobby shops by me. And ordering it online seems even more expensive.

when you say Mr. Color you mean this stuff right:

because Hobbywave sells it for for $3 a bottle with 12 dollar flat rate shipping: http://hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/paints/mr-color

[MechTech]

My favorite and it's easy to get: http://www.krylon.com/products/indooroutdoor-primer/ I build 1/200 and 1/350th scale models and none of the TINY details are lost. This stuff is easy to get, lays down smooth, and the special nozzle (note the picture on the can) puts out a fine mist and can be slightly adjusted too. - MT

Edited June 13, 2013 by MechTech

[EXO]

My favorite and it's easy to get: http://www.krylon.com/products/indooroutdoor-primer/ I build 1/200 and 1/350th scale models and none of the TINY details are lost. This stuff is easy to get, lays down smooth, and the special nozzle (note the picture on the can) puts out a fine mist and can be slightly adjusted too. - MT

It's all about Duplicolor biatch! West SAAIIIYDE!!!

Here' some figures I started off with duplicolor sandable primer. These are resin figures about the size of WH figs maybe smaller.

[Greyryder]

I've had no problem using Model master Acrylics on urethane resin. I don't think I bothered to prime it, first, but the Model Master Primer would work at least as well as the paint itself.

[GU-11]

I'm afraid to try out Mr. Color because everyone that switched to it from Tamiya swears they wouldn't go back. It's more expensive and it's not at the 2 hobby shops by me. And ordering it online seems even more expensive.

Same situation here. Tamiya's the easiest brand I can find, and even then, it's a little out of the way.

I've never once had that problem. my process is color, wait a day or two, lay down TS-13, wait a 3~4 days, panel line and decal, then lay down TS-80 the next day.

I heard rumors that Tamiya reformulated the TS paints to fix this problem in 2012 or so; I guess it's true after all.

[Dax415]

Looks like I got some options, thanks guys!

[EXO]

I've never once had that problem. my process is color, wait a day or two, lay down TS-13, wait a 3~4 days, panel line and decal, then lay down TS-80 the next day.

when you say Mr. Color you mean this stuff right:

because Hobbywave sells it for for $3 a bottle with 12 dollar flat rate shipping: http://hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/paints/mr-color

Yup... I know how much it costs but Tamiya costs 2.25 at the corner store. With the amount of painting I do that can really add up. I've even tried replacing Tamiya with Wicked Colors which you can buy in bulk. But you have to use the base color because it's really translucent. At the end you end up using 3 times the amount of paint that you would with Tamiya, which has a better flow and lays on a lot smoother.

[anime52k8]

Wow, the only places around here that carry Tamiya Acrylics charge 4.50 a bottle.

[EXO]

Those are probably the bigger bottles which are 23ml. They're even a better value. They're 3.35-3.50 depending on which store I go to, so you get more than twice the amount for less than double the price.

[Dax415]

Just curious....has anyone used the Krylon Plastic Primer? Just saw it at ace hardware and was wondering if anyone had any experience with this.

[PetarB]

I've had problems with Mr Surfacer - although this may have been due to the resin, rather than Mr Surfacer. I have never had any issues with Tamiya Fine Primer on resin.

[MechTech]

_{(Gang signing a big D), yo, Duplicolor rocks too! If it's Krylon Fusion, others say it sucks (flakes). But Duplicolor or Krylon regular primers are great - as long as they have the special spray nozzle! That's all I use for my models or have used for the last 15 years. - MT}

[anime52k8]

Isn't regular Krylon enamel? I'm looking for a cheap alternative to Tamiya surface primer/Mr surfacer that I can safely apply tamiya sprey lacquers and Alclad II over.

Edited June 20, 2013 by anime52k8

[Noyhauser]

Model master black or another dark colour works just fine.... which you can get for 2.50. I got mine for 50 cents. I've used it for almost all my NMF Models. Be careful however to let it dry for 24 hours, otherwise you'll get the same problem as WM Cheng did in the other thread. You can also thin the MM with mineral spirits which is pretty cheap.

If you want a true primer, go thinned Mr. Surfacer through the AB (basically full of awesome), then MM black.

Edited June 20, 2013 by Noyhauser

[anime52k8]

hmm. follow up question.

Whats the difference between mr. sufacer 1000 and mr. Primer surfacer 1000. Also, what are you supposed to thin Mr surfacer with?

[Jefuemon]

hmm. follow up question.

Whats the difference between mr. sufacer 1000 and mr. Primer surfacer 1000. Also, what are you supposed to thin Mr surfacer with?

Mr. Thinner, of course! (sorry, but I still think it's funny that all their products are "Mr." something). If you can find the leveling thinner, use that, but regular works just fine.